ChrisG

I had a good look a few of these units and know a friend who bought a knockoff Rhino, since then he regretted every minute of it. There are a million different manufactures of these units and they all seem to be of the same caliber. I have read about this topic more than once and it seems that the general consensus is that you get what you pay for. I recomend finding the UTV buyers guild and doing some investigating. I personally went with Joyner and one of the biggest selling features was the 3yr warranty that is available. Chris

Trevor @ Mudslinger Motorsports in central Alberta - two thumbs up!! Good guy and great service. His specialty is the buggies but he is very knowlegable in all Joyner products. The only problem is that he is an hour and a half away so all the warranty work has a deductable with gas prices and all. He always answers his phone for help and is as transparent as any dealer can be. I give him all the business I can and he is willing to send parts to all of Alberta if anyone else needs some. Even has a website to boot!

Sure does, thanks.

Can you post pictures of your cowling Lenny? I have an overheating problem too but I attributed it to the location of the rad. It is pretty tight around the fan though, a little mud threw it off balance enough to hit the cowling and make an awful noise. Its funny how ALL the Joyner buggies have the rad out in the open but the SXS's don't. Right now this is on the top of my list. The grass, mud and dandelion fuzz aren't helping the heating situation either!

So don't worry about the oil pressure light? My light came on strong yesterday after washing it, this morning the light was a lot dimmer. I haven't had a chance to look in the problem yet. Any ideas??

The brakes seem really bad to me as well. I have blead the brakes a few times and they still do not support the weight of the Trooper on the side of a steep hill. Good thing there is the E-brake to back up the main ones, it has gotten me out of a few sticky situations.

Well I guess I better sign up for your upgrade too then if you haven't filled the quota yet. I was going to let warrany solve the problem but I have a feeling they won't be as thourogh as your remedy. When the time comes maybe you can make one Canadian shipment to cut down on brokerage fees.

For those who had your diffs go, were there any indicators or forewarning of a problem? Now that I have secured my rear end I seem to hear grinding noises on occasion. Haven't determined if it is the diff or CV's.

For a couple of weeks my trooper has been making a cluncking noise in the rear and I couldn't trace the problem. It wasn't until I removed all of my extra parts and rear cage to do further troubleshooting that I realized where the problem was. The nut had come off the rear diff mount on the rear diff and the bolt was hanging half out. This raised my concern because my dealer double checks, re-torques and puts his own mark on every bolt on his PVI. Looking at the mounts on the trooper, it appears that they drilled the same hole twice right next to each other elongating the hole. I figure it came from the factory like this because there is the exact same problem on both sides and there is no crushed metal from a sloppy bolt. I've already established with my dealer that it would be cheaper for me that I weld a "washer" (his suggestion) to reinforce this area. I plan to drill the appropriate hole in a steel tab and weld these tabs in shortly to correct this issue. In the mean time I have replaced the bolt with the same grade couse thread M12 (fine threads are hard to come by). There is still movement in my diff though. Should I be increasing the bolt size to take up the play where the bolt goes through the diff? I know a few thousands more I would be able to accept a standard bolt and have no slop whatsoever. Do others have the same movement in this connection and is it enough to raise concern? I am not worried about shearing a bolt or losing another nut but I want to reduce the chance of problems in the future. I figured while some of you have the diffs on the bench you could check and let me know what you think. I appretiate it, thanks.

I think this is a known problem by Joyner. My dealer called me up out of the blue one day and wanted to know my diffs serial number. He has seen this same thing twice and is trying to be proactive about the problem. This may or may not help but I'd give Joyner a ring and see what they can do for you.

I was looking over all the suspension posts trying to figure out whats what. It seem like every month there is another topic on aftermarket suspensions, which to me indicates continuing interest. There is a well documented template on this site (with pictures and specs) but it is hard to follow through the treads. I had asked for general interest what the specs on your equipment were and any differences you may have made on construction. I might add that your pictures are also very helpfull - thanks.

I went with 2" pipe from the local exhaust store and some hardware from home depot. (pictures are in the gallery) I was concerned about rocks hitting the abs and breaking it. I am sure this concern was unjustified but I like everything to be bulletproof. I haven't reveiwed the materials specs but I know plastic gets brittle in the cold as well.

My winch has had the same problem not being able to go in or out. I have had to put it on free spin, hook it to something solid and hit reverse to undo it. My winch is actually broken right now. I haven't had time but I think warranty might cover my problem - somehow the cast broke on the main housing. The cable slipped between the roller and the drive motor and frayed my cable really bad (this was all before I manually unwound it) If I do get a new unit, the plan is to mount it to the rear and replace it with a better one up front. When I have two winches I will be looking for and in-line switch with a key to lock out the opposite winch. That way I'll be covered both ways and it is generally easier on everything if you go out the way you came from. As far as distance goes I carry a 25' chain, 50' extra aircraft cable, poly slings to tie of to the trees with and spare clevises under my drivers seat. With this setup I have yet to find a distance too far here in Alberta. The only thing I need is the winch remote we discussed in a previous thread.

Every time my Trooper broke this winter I would wash it before taking it to my dealer. He got tired of replacing fuses from the frozen fan so he hooked me up with a breaker.