Quantcast
Jump to content

Trooper rear differential


Quig

Recommended Posts

If you can talk Bedrock, member on this site, into taking his Renegade diff over to Lenny for verification & inspection, I would trade Bedrock a Trooper diff for it and you could buy the traded Trooper diff from him. The trade diff does not have the upgrade kit.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I won't let mine go without replacing it with a Renegade diff. If I never get the Renegade diff then my spare diffs are for when I have a breakdown. The diffs are one of the weak links but seem to last with the upgrade kit. Lenny is running a lot more power than the rest of us and his diffs have lasted, knock on wood for ya Lenny! Myself am still running my orginal diffs without problems but lots of off-road experence with spinning the wheels on different surfaces which is usually the cause of damage. Hang in there, one will show up or maybe Bedrock will contact ya or me! I made the case for the trade that the Trooper diff is easier to sale than the Renegade. Thus far two diff failures on here since my offer to trade.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

I'm fairly confident in the diff with the upgrade. It's not a given that it won't fail with the upgrade but as Rocmoc said, the upgrade seems to be solving the issues with the diff if it's installed correctly. I'm putting a lot of power to mine and no problems yet. However, I don't do hole shots or deliberately stress it unnecessarily. I'm getting old and conservative and not a kid anymore. Keep in mind that the most stress is on the diff when your in low gear and trying to get over a challenging rock craw situation. Your reving the engine and working the clutch to get lots of power to the wheels. I've done this with mine and it didn't brake. You have to ease the clutch out. I feel one of the main problems with the diffs is that the pinion gear is allowed to get into a location where it doesn't correctly line up with the ring gear. This is what proper shimming can correct. The ring gear has its teeth lined up radially around its center. This means that the part of the teeth that are closest to the center of the gear are smaller with less space in between them then the teeth at the outer portion of the gear. The teeth on the pinion gear are also tapered to match up with the ring gears tapered teeth. If there is mis-alignment between the gears, the larger teeth on the outside portion of one gear, say the pinion gear for example, can be trying to mesh with a part of the ring gear where the teeth are smaller. The larger tooth wedges itself in between two small and more closely spaced teeth stressing it way too much. Over time with fatigue, teeth start braking off. This has nothing to do with the power they are transferring. Another main problem is that the bolts holding the ring gear come loose and eventually shear off. The final main problem is that the set screw, holding the pin going thru the spider gears, doesn't do it's job and the pin slides out tearing up the main differential case. The upgrade fixes all of these issues. That said, I only have a few diff upgrade kits left and don't plan on making up more. When there gone, there gone. You can't just put together a batch of shims and metric grade 12 bolts to come up with a fix. I have to machine the bolts and a number of the shims from standard available ltems in order to make them fit the application. I'm not trying to use this forum to try and sell kits. As many of you already know, I have never attempted to market the Items I sell for the Joyners on this forum, You will have to find them yourself on Ebay. That's not what this forum is about I feel.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was able to drive it about 20 miles to get back to mh. But could hear noise in rear of trooper,so I took it real easy. I'm not even a pretend mechanic, so my young bud tore into it,he's the one that overhauled motor for me. Anyway, several of the bolts inside were broken off,or loose. Part of tooth gone on one gear. Some small metal pieces mixed in oil ,little piece of housing was worn off. It had the upgrade almost 2 yrs ago, but can't say as to if it was put in correctly? All the work that that mechanic had done on trooper was great,but I think that was his 1st diff upgrade.I was climbing steep loose hill,with all 4 locked in,when I 1st heard noise.It was more of hill than I normally try,but it was the way to get home.

Question? when the co. says they are upgraded differentials, what have they done?

Should I still use Lenny's upgrade ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

My upgrade uses socket cap screws (bolts) to hold the ring gear on then there is a hex locking nut on the back side to help secure them from coming loose. Put inb properly, they will not come loose. What type of bolts did your diff have, where they a hex head or mine? Was your spider gears pin still in ok?

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was able to drive it about 20 miles to get back to mh. But could hear noise in rear of trooper,so I took it real easy. I'm not even a pretend mechanic, so my young bud tore into it,he's the one that overhauled motor for me. Anyway, several of the bolts inside were broken off,or loose. Part of tooth gone on one gear. Some small metal pieces mixed in oil ,little piece of housing was worn off. It had the upgrade almost 2 yrs ago, but can't say as to if it was put in correctly? All the work that that mechanic had done on trooper was great,but I think that was his 1st diff upgrade.I was climbing steep loose hill,with all 4 locked in,when I 1st heard noise.It was more of hill than I normally try,but it was the way to get home.

Question? when the co. says they are upgraded differentials, what have they done?

Should I still use Lenny's upgrade ?

If housing can still be used why not replace the broken gear along with Lennys upgrade? much cheaper then whole diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

You would have to get the specs on the splines. Splines should be a standard metric size. If your not interested in going 65mph, the 9 to 33 ratio would be real nice for rock crawling but top speed would be maybe 40mph. The ratio would be 3.66:1 where as stock is 2.07:1. But then you could run 33" tires for extra clearance. Actually I still like the one I referred to above because it's a 2 speed differential you could still have a 2.1:1 high ratio and then go to a 4.5:1 low ratio which would be even better for rock crawling. 36" tires anybody? One concern would be if they could be available for the front also which needs to be reversed. The one shown by Alibaba says for front and rear. For the Trooper, you would need 2 diffs. Klung could probably supply the other make too but it appears that you could buy it direct also. Wonder what shipping and customs would be.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You would have to get the specs on the splines. Splines should be a standard metric size. If your not interested in going 65mph, the 9 to 33 ratio would be real nice for rock crawling but top speed would be maybe 40mph. The ratio would be 3.66:1 where as stock is 2.07:1. But then you could run 33" tires for extra clearance. Actually I still like the one I referred to above because it's a 2 speed differential you could still have a 2.1:1 high ratio and then go to a 4.5:1 low ratio which would be even better for rock crawling. 36" tires anybody? One concern would be if they could be available for the front also which needs to be reversed. The one shown by Alibaba says for front and rear. For the Trooper, you would need 2 diffs. Klung could probably supply the other make too but it appears that you could buy it direct also. Wonder what shipping and customs would be.

Lenny

He told me 550.00 for front and 650.00 for rear that included shipping

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You would have to get the specs on the splines. Splines should be a standard metric size. If your not interested in going 65mph, the 9 to 33 ratio would be real nice for rock crawling but top speed would be maybe 40mph. The ratio would be 3.66:1 where as stock is 2.07:1. But then you could run 33" tires for extra clearance. Actually I still like the one I referred to above because it's a 2 speed differential you could still have a 2.1:1 high ratio and then go to a 4.5:1 low ratio which would be even better for rock crawling. 36" tires anybody? One concern would be if they could be available for the front also which needs to be reversed. The one shown by Alibaba says for front and rear. For the Trooper, you would need 2 diffs. Klung could probably supply the other make too but it appears that you could buy it direct also. Wonder what shipping and customs would be.

Lenny

Now. the NEW limited slip fuction differential for joyner troopers and renegade are available !!!!

We can supply the ORIGINAL trooper front and rear differential which has been upgraded and no factory flaws.

100% installed joyner models guranatee. Dealer wanted. paypal accpeted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Bassarino51
      My 2014 Odes with less than 1000 miles suddenly won’t turn over with a fully charged battery.
    • By Kalyla Jackson
      Hey all!
      I'm on a mission to buy my first UTV soundbar as a gift for my dad. I'm aiming for something that offers great sound quality without breaking the bank – my budget is around $250. Right now, I'm considering options like ecoxgear, kemimoto, and boss.
      Does anyone have experience with these brands or specific models that you'd recommend? Any advice or suggestions would be super appreciated!
      Thanks in advance for your help!



    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By azdesertdog
      A desert camp trip we took at Christmas in the desert
       
    • By lowgear52
      Does anyone out there have a rear differential for a trooper for sale?
×
×
  • Create New...