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When the kids hit the gas, I can see the front clutch pulley trying to engage the belt. But all it does is burn up the belt. I have ordered some new belts on Amazon that will be here in a couple days. But what else could be going on that the belt is not properly engaging? There's no WD40 or any grease on it. Only difference is I tried riding it (290 lbs).

There's no brake switch. The shift lever just operates a lever on the engine case, purely mechanical.

So when push hard on the brake and I mean hard it will go into reverse. Is there a brake switch that could be going bad or Do you all think it's a adjustment fro the shift cable? I haven't had a lot of time to really get into this. just picking brains right now. Thanks for any help!!

https://youtube.com/shorts/1JEi9hdW7Jo?si=5_RwP_DUkgytTYFF The brake sounds awful! But works WAY better than our American Landmaster TW450.

So the new motor is on the go kart! Fix-a-flat in the dry rotted tires. It ran great till I got on it... Now the kids can run full throttle and the belt never catches. It smelled like burnt rubber when I rode it (I weigh a good bit more than they do). I'm going to assume, with the condition of the tires and all other rubber parts, that the belt just needs to be replaced. But if you have any ideas of what else could cause a belt to go from traction to no traction in just a few minutes, please let me know... If we can get the kinks out and end up with a reliable go kart after this predator motor swap, we'll do the same thing with the side-by-side!

Well, I'm sorry I never saw your response, WB. We tried every alternative engine mounting technique I could think of, but nothing worked. So, after seeing a YouTube video with the same engine swap, we took the rear axle to our local mechanic who used his air hammer to help loosen up all those stubborn parts so we could move the belt closer to the motor and chain on the outside. It actually worked! If you compare this photo to the last one I posted, you can see the difference.

Thanks for your help, Aefron. Sorry to keep you waiting, but I've been down with my old back. To answer your questions: yes, I do have a volt meter. I checked for spark by taking the plug wire off the plug, inserting a screwdriver into the wire, and holding it close to the aluminum on motor while cranking. I then pulled the plug, attached the plug wire, and grounded it while cranking. There was a spare plug in the buggie when I got it, so I swapped the plugs and tried again-- all to no avail. I'm quite sure the ignition switch is right, electrically, because the three wires were the same color as those on the loose wire I mentioned. The engine not only turns over, but the dash lights, blinkers, and the headlights all work with the key on. Thus, I believe it's the correct one. Now here's the mystery to me. These old eyeballs of mine could not find a fuse on the positive side of the battery cable, but since it's turning over, don't that tell me that fuse is ok? Concerning the fuse box, I only found one fuse blown. It was a 5A, so I assume it's for something of very low voltage. It's difficult for me to look down it there, but I think the blown 5A fuse is F4, whatever that means. The mystery continues for me in that I don't know if the larger, black, box-like objects in the fuse box are fuses that I'm unaware of. I searched feverishly online for a pic of the fuse box showing what is what, but failed to find one. I pulled on one, but it didn't come out, and I feared tearing something up by pulling harder. I had charged the battery before I started all of this, and I recharged it again--so it is still very hot. The plug looks new, and the one I found in the buggie doesn't. Man, I just want you to know your help is greatly appreciated. Knowing you have taken so much of your valuable time to help me get the buggie running is not overlooked.

I have a 2018 TW450E that runs in my yard and slow good just will not go down the road seems to be running out of fuel where should i start? I have replaced both fuel and air filter drained gas and tried a small auxiliary tank same issue i have ordered a new vacuum fuel pump to try next anyone in Texas that works on these?

I have a Bennche 700 EFI Bighorn. I’ve recently been unable to get it to start. After a little troubleshooting I realized my fuel pump was not pumping fuel. This weekend I emptied the gas and replaced it with new. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injector. I also replaced the battery, spark plug and made sure all my fuses and relays were good. I have confirmed that the float on the fuel pump is not obstructed. The UTV is about 12 years old and has less than 100 hours on it. It has not run in over a year. Not sure whats going on?!? After doing a little reading I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the ECU or perhaps a faulty wire in the wiring harness. Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking or what I could be dealing with? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!

I've discovered the part number in question schematic callout (210-253) is actually 280-62358-08.

The needle adapter shown in the first post makes it so you don't need to be straight perpendicular like with a traditional grease gun coupler, You need to make sure you're buying the blunt type like that, there are also sharp needles meant for piercing rubber in ball joints, etc. With the blunt needle adapter you basically shove it into the check ball. It does make a bit more of a mess than a normal coupler, but it does fit. The driveshaft zerks are certainly have limited clearance. The other option is a small grease gun that just fits on top of the zerk without coupling. You can see one pictured in the "rear driveshaft" pic Something like this

Ok so lets start off simple on the instructions I posted above. I'm assuming you have a Volt/Ohm meter, if not you'll need to get one. If you find something wrong in any of these steps rectify, and then try starting again. Just so we're clear, how are you checking for spark and determining that you don't have one? Are you sure you have the key wired up correctly to the proper terminals? -First check all the fuses. There is a fuse on the positive battery cable. The remaining fuses are inside the box forward of the battery under the seat. Remove the cover (4 Philips screws) and check each fuse for continuity. -If those are all good, next step is check the battery. Should have 12.5V or more. If it doesn't charge it. -Next step is to inspect the plug, make sure it is clean, not fouled, and gapped properly. If it's still in new condition, and not soaked in gas it's likely OK. Let me know the answers to above, and confirm all those steps are complete with no resolution.

Well guys, I find myself in the same position of the Ethiopian eunuch of Acts chapter 8: I don't understandeth what I readeth. LOL Concerning my buggy not firing, if I go online and google buggies (in general) not firing, will it be the same as mine: at least, as long as they are fired by a stator? As I confessed in my first comment I'm not much of a mechanic on these machines. In reality, mechanicing passed me by when they got away from points and condensers. With that statement one can quickly ascertain I'm no young whipper snapper. LOL Thanks for any help.

likely running extremely rich, Best guess would be failed O2 sensor, but thats just a guess. I believe those models are likely carbed vs fuel injected, so let me know if thats incorrect. Likely your carberateur jet setting is wrong, or the choke is stuck on. Have you ever cleaned it? Could you post a pic or model info of the carb I'm not sure what type the older models even have?

Spark plug keeps fouling. after 10-15 minutes of running any ideas what to look fore

I replaced mine with an adjustable switch.We tested oem and it did not engage fan til over 230 degrees F. This is why it blew headgaskets and the heat in the cab was unbearable.Set new switch to come on at 180 *F. Cab is much cooler and no more boil overs.

DO NOT BUY MASSIMO OR ANYTHING HISUN... you have been warned. You will regret it. They are Chinese junk..

I have a 2014 landmaster S/S 4x4 model 653 4x4 with a 22 hp robins engine. I've been having problems with the govenor reving after it running a short distance. I cleaned the carb and discovered the fuel membrane has a slight pin hole (P/N 210-253). Can not seem to locate a replacement. Any suggestions? It appears this carburetor is no longer supported.

I run screaming at the mere mention of the word HISUN....I had a nightmare of problems with mine ,beginning on it's first day.and got zero help from Massimo in TX or HISUN in China

Hey all. Just thought I'd weigh in with our pretty much horrible experience with a new Axis 700 purchased last May 2023 from Lowes in Winchester, VA. Brought it home, put about 10 hours on it and it won't hold a charge. LOOOOONG story, the mobile tech has been out 4 times, replaced the battery, voltage regulator twice. I told him in February I thought (after doing a bit of research) that it was the stator, since if kept on the trickle charger it reads 100% charged, run it 15 minutes and it's down to 40%-that means the stator is not charging the battery while it's running. Anyway, last time he came out the part that he was supposed to change out was shipped in too small a package and was bent and unusable. I have about a 10 page email chain to 6 different folks at Hisun in TX begging for some resolution. They ignore my calls, emails, voice mails, etc. Needless to say, we are really frustrated with the vehicle, the company, the mechanic; pretty much everything to do with this worthless POS. It is truly ridiculous to spend $10K on something that is now sitting in our garage torn apart waiting for the worthless mechanic once again.

Follow up on my issue. I took it to a HISUN certified repair shop and it took these guys 3-4 hours of troubleshooting to figure out what was wrong because it was sporadic (I get it...if you can't get consistency with the issue and recreate it, it is hard to diagnose). The issue with mine was an obvious QA issue from the manufacture (I only have 100 miles on it). The plug for the fuel injector power was not plugged in all the way so sometimes it worked and other times it didn't.

very good wright up, i just bought a 2022 sector 750 it had 3 miles on it, now it has 18 so have not had any issues yet, i know there coming im a retired mechanic and i see things im going to change first the the muffler mod i glad i found this post. thanks

I purchased a 2008 Qlink Rodeo 700 a few years ago. I am from Michigan. Anyone know of any local repair shops? I had a dead battery, so I replaced that, started right up, ran the quad down the road, (this was last year), put it in the barn, shut it off. then a couple weeks later, went to go start it again, and nothing. I have power to the dash lights, horn, turn signals, wench etc, but nothing to the starter switch, and I hate electrical crap. Battery still reads 12.x volts. Any suggestions would be amazing. I've owned it over 2 years, and haven't run 1 tank of gas through it. No time to screw with it, and very frustrated. Hoping someone can offer some advice of value.

By "small body tank" do you mean carberator bowl? If so you might have a fuel pump issue. I'm not familar with the carbed models do they have an electric pump? have you tested the pressure on the fuel line? is there an inline filter?

Interesting, I have heard of a few on cars where they fail once hot. That's not where my mind would have taken me troubleshooting. Glad to hear you've fixed it!