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UTV Ride Reports - Where to Ride

Report your UTV rides here. Please post as much information, location, pictures, etc..as you can. Post Riding area inquiries. Find out where to ride that UTV!


58 topics in this forum

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  1. Summer Long Ride

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  2. eastern united states

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  3. Glamis trip

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  4. Snow riding

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  5. washing state

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  6. Baja

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  7. Summer 2012 Trooper Trip

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  8. Summer 2012

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  9. More Camping in Utah

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  10. arizona trails

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  11. Baja Trip Report

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  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for your help, Aefron. Sorry to keep you waiting, but I've been down with my old back. To answer your questions: yes, I do have a volt meter. I checked for spark by taking the plug wire off the plug, inserting a screwdriver into the wire, and holding it close to the aluminum on motor while cranking. I then pulled the plug, attached the plug wire, and grounded it while cranking. There was a spare plug in the buggie when I got it, so I swapped the plugs and tried again-- all to no avail.  I'm quite sure the ignition switch is right, electrically, because the three wires were the same color as those on the loose wire I mentioned. The engine not only turns over, but the dash lights, blinkers, and the headlights all work with the key on. Thus, I believe it's the correct one.  Now here's the mystery to me. These old eyeballs of mine could not find a fuse on the positive side of the battery cable, but since it's turning over, don't that tell me that fuse is ok? Concerning the fuse box, I only found one fuse blown. It was a 5A, so I assume it's for something of very low voltage. It's difficult for me to look down it there, but I think the blown 5A fuse is F4, whatever that means. The mystery continues for me in that I don't know if the larger, black, box-like objects in the fuse box are fuses that I'm unaware of. I searched feverishly online for a pic of the fuse box showing what is what, but failed to find one. I pulled on one, but it didn't come out, and I feared tearing something up by pulling harder.  I had charged the battery before I started all of this, and I recharged it again--so it is still very hot. The plug looks new, and the one I found in the buggie doesn't.  Man, I just want you to know your help is greatly appreciated. Knowing you have taken so much of your valuable time to help me get the buggie running is not overlooked. 
    • I have a 2018 TW450E that runs in my yard and slow good just will not go down the road seems to be running out of fuel where should i start? I have replaced both fuel and air filter drained gas and tried a small auxiliary tank same issue i have ordered a new vacuum fuel pump to try next anyone in Texas that works on these?
    • I have a Bennche 700 EFI Bighorn. I’ve recently been unable to get it to start. After a little troubleshooting I realized my fuel pump was not pumping fuel. This weekend I emptied the gas and replaced it with new. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injector. I also replaced the battery, spark plug and made sure all my fuses and relays were good. I have confirmed that the float on the fuel pump is not obstructed. The UTV is about 12 years old and has less than 100 hours on it. It has not run in over a year.  Not sure whats going on?!? After doing a little reading I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the ECU or perhaps a faulty wire in the wiring harness. Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking or what I could be dealing with? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
    • I've discovered the part number in question schematic callout (210-253) is actually 280-62358-08.
    • The needle adapter shown in the first post makes it so you don't need to be straight perpendicular like with a traditional grease gun coupler, You need to make sure you're buying the blunt type like that, there are also sharp needles meant for piercing rubber in ball joints, etc. With the blunt needle adapter you basically shove it into the check ball. It does make a bit more of a mess than a normal coupler, but it does fit. The driveshaft zerks are certainly have limited clearance. The other option is a small grease gun that just fits on top of the zerk without coupling. You can see one pictured in the "rear driveshaft" pic Something like this
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