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  • Latest Posts

    • I have my 550 torn apart now rebuilding the engine. Luckily it's a single cylinder. Ran good for 17 years and rings started to go. just did regular maintenance.
    • If you own a 4000 or 4010 Mule, and perhaps others that are of the 2cylinder type, there is an ignition -coil for each cylinder. When one of them dies, and they must because there seem to be a lot of them sold through the internet and that coil is used on several makes of engines, then your DFI light will not go out after the engine is started which indicates that you have a problem. If it's the coil then you are running on one cylinder and the power you now have is enough to get you back home, the limp home mode.  The # 1 coil is the one in front and isn't bad to get to but the #2 coil is the one in the rear and next to impossible to get to. If you read the manual it tells you how many things you must take apart to get to it Trust me, You have a lot to disassemble, Tire, shock absorber, torque converter housing , clutch, starter motor, and then the coil. I figured out how to eliminate that but you need patience , a lot of swear words, a lot of luck, and a special 8 mm wrench..  Pray yours doesn't die and if so you may want to take it to a dealer and let them fix it.  Gerry C
    • Glad you got it figured out! how come the coil needs replaced?
    • Might doesn't make right but it beats whatever's in 2nd place. I think my folks did spend their money on my education wisely. It taught me to think. My idea of spreading open the bracket that holds the pin was correct. Why the parts diagram doesn't show the connecting pin separately is because it is part of the cable and not a separate part. For those of you who had the same problem as I trying to replace the hood release cable, the bracket which is a welded part of the release latch mechanism is like a square "U" with a hole drilled through it to accept the pin. On one side of the bracket is a slot about a 1/4 inch wide from the outside edge to the hole. Take a large screw driver or or wedge and twist the slot until it opens up just enough to release the pin and the cable. Now you can pull the cable, knob and all out through the hole in the dash. This, assuming you've managed to release the nut holding the whole thing tight against the bracket that the cable goes through. That bracket also has a slot cut through it and as you pull the cable through you may be able to slide the cable out through the slot or maybe even bend it enough to get the cable out. It's a thick bracket so you may not be able to bend it. Haven't gotten that far as yet. Will work on that tomorrow. I'll let you know how that works out and the steps necessary to replace it. After that, if anyone is interested, I'll go through another nightmare and that is replacing the ignition -coil in the rear or #2 spot on the Mule. That's a bunch of fun too. Gerry C
    • It just dawned on me that the welded on clip on the release bar that holds the pin has a slot cut in it and perhaps if I stick a bar/screwdriver in the slot and pry on it to open some it may release the pin enough to allow the pin to slide out and when reinstalling a new cable just insert the pin and crimp the slot closed enough to hold the pin from falling out. I'm going to give that a try and also go ahead and order a new cable and see if a pin comes with it. It's got to be something simple. Kawasaki couldn't have made it impossible but then I don't think like Japanese engineer.  I do hold a mechanical engineering degree from a good college but maybe the engineering world has changed in the past 57 years and I'm just out of date. I would have provided a more straight forward assembly. I'll let you know how I make out.  Gerry C