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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

White smoke is usually coolant leaking into the cylinder. Sounds like a blown head gasket to me.

Just wanted to give update . It was the ecm. Put new one on and got spark immediately to front cylinder. Ran but smoking and no power. I checked back cylinder and no fire. Pulled coil to check with meter and found wire was not getting good connection where it plugs into coil. All good now . She will scream !!!. Next is to figure out why 4x4 switch wont turn. Thanks for all the imput....

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

I have come to the conclusion @Joe Toup must be one of the very best, most helpful members here!!! He has been tireless sharing his knowledge and expertise helping me solve a problem. I am sure I'm near a good solution thanks to Joe!!👍👍👍

There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake. I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released. If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.

anybody else getting spam /fraud private messages on here besides me? How do I report it? He calls himself Maria .under ORANGE 15 name.. wants to hook up in UTVs .. con artist in Pakistan probably.. Cant ADMIN block this crap ? geesh

Just looked at the Lowes add for that, pretty much looks like an MSU 500/700 that Hisun made for Massimo back then. Take a good look at the badging on parts to see who it's actually made by, my guess is it's still Hisun.

Its my 2nd day on this plat form. I'm new here in this community but in these two days I got some Premium recommendations. I was in search of these recommendations form the past few months. Thanks you so much for creating such kind of the community. Regards: Zeeshan Mehmood

Put 15 miles on it today mostly on the beach in 4WD--the front diiferential is definitely smoother and quieter, and engaging/disengaging 4WD and front lock more positively with the ATF...

So how can i fix my UTV? " we'll circle back"

For a 16 digit PIN/VIN, the 9th number indicates the year. Hence, in this case, the OP's RTV is a 2006. Which is the same year as y RTV:

Waiting for snow.....

Hello Everyone Brand new Joyner CV AXLES are waiting to be unloaded at LA port and then be sent to warehouses in Charleston, TN , BALTIMORE, MD and Groveport, OH. Estimate they will be available for shipments to end customers in about 2-3 weeks. These CV AXLES are ordered in February this year and now it is middle July. Very long time to get these parts. Qty for each model is not big. Detail as below: S/N Part No. Description Charleston, TN BALTIMORE, MD Groveport, OH Total 1 D650.03.02.02.00 650 Sand Spider Rear left 3 2 3 8 2 S650.03.02.02.00 650 Commando Rear 7 6 10 23 3 TR1100.03.01.03.00 TR1100 Front 3 3 4 10 4 D650.03.02.03.00 650 Sand Spider Rear Right 3 2 4 9 5 S800.03.02.02.00-R2 800 R2/4 Rear Shaft 4 4 6 14 6 TR1100.03.02.03.00 TR1100 Rear 6 5 9 20 7 S650.03.01.02.00 650 Commando Front Left 3 3 4 10 8 S650.03.01.03.00 650 Commando Front Right 3 3 4 10 Below items are also available. These items can be shipped in days CAGE: 1. 800 Renegade R2/R4 Front outer cage --- 5 pieces 2. 800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear Left outer cage --- 5 pieces 3. 800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear left inner cage --- 3 pieces CV BOOT: 1. 650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front /650 Sand Spider Rear Left / 650 Sand Spider Rear right / OUT CAGE 2 pieces 2. 650 Commando Rear OUT CAGE 1 pieces 3 Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear OUT CAGE 2 pieces 4 650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front INNER CAGE 1 pieces 5 650 Sand Spider Rear Left / 650 Sand Spider Rear right INNER CAGE 1 pieces 6 650 Commando Rear INNER CAGE 1 pieces 7 Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear OUT CAGE INNER CAGE 2 pieces Anyone who need above items please contact me at [email protected]. Thanks. Other Joyner items needed, you can also contact me and I will try to help. Have good day Casey / Leaf Asia 2021-07-20

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

I had a cover made for my UT 400 to keep things dry and out of sight. Seems like a handy addition. I’ll add some pics when I can.

Paint chip is no good, but doubtful that it made it thru the filter, so it's likely been there, or got knocked off when you were working on removing things. Code 201 indicates that it is getting a weak or unexpected signal from the injector. The fuel metering is done by pulsing the injector open. The ECU expects it to be X resistance and it gets Y resistance instead and throws a code. This could be a failing injector (the internal solenoid may be failing) a loose or intermittent connection, chafed wire partially shorting to ground, moisture or corrosion in a connector, etc. It's likely intermittent, but will eventually get worse. When it's happening it will throw the code and give the engine the wrong amount of fuel causing stalling, performance issues, no start, etc. If it were me I would visually inspect the Injector wiring for chafing, check inside the connectors, and if I didnt find anything just throw a new injector at it. You can also check resistance of the injector, but if it's intermittent it may check out ok when you happen to check it.

Thanks but think I found the critter , the cam pressure relief spring had broken had to remove the head again to make sure nothing got crushed , but found everything installed new spring put back together , but made sure that the timing marks were where they were supposed to be , adjusted valve springs and it started right up, ran for a few seconds and I believe some garbage got into the fuel system , but thats for tomorrow problem solving !! ROFL thank's for sharing

Kawasaki, Polaris and Kubota are what i call "the big three" for utility vehicles... you get the best bang for your buck without sacrificing QUALITY. If you get down to the cheap machines (Hisun, Massimo, Coleman, etc) that are loaded with features and cost only around 9,000.... you're sacrificing quality.

Update on my Axis 700. Contacted Lowe’s to explain what happened. Store manager, Fatima, in Mechanicsville VA was awesome. She paid for my gas for the round trip back which was $170 and then doubled it. She then gave me a new 700 with full tank of gas. It ran good yesterday so we’ll see. I told her if any happens again, I will be taking it to the nearest Lowe’s for a full refund and she said she would make sure it was taken care of. The original 700 did start after a trickle charge. Had to be a bad alternator, or loose wiring. These things do happen. I wish I could purchase a more expensive utv, however I lost my job because I refused to take the vaccine, so I’m on a budget. This definitely fits my budget. Great deal when you add my 10% military discount.

My mother is a hard worker. She's 91. Lately the pain in her legs is so bad it's keeping her from working as hard as she wants. She lives on a 20 acre ranch in Black Forest, Colorado. It's bad enough sometimes she can't walk back and forth to her front gate which is about 100 yards each way. Working hard is her joy in life and she recently broke down crying to my daughter talking about how she feels limited. I want to get her a UTV, soon. She's pretty little only 100 pounds. Money isn't really an issue. This is Colorado and her ranch is at 7500 above sea level so snow is always a factor but with the sun and our atmosphere being so thin snow melts pretty quick. Still I want 4WD as an option or fulltime. I want entering and exiting easy, She doesn't need ground clearance. She will never go trail riding. I'd like to have an enclosed and or removable cabin and heat if possible. Easy start up and do they all have clutches? No clutch or a very light one would help. Some kind of a bed for gardening would be good. That doesn't have to be heavy duty. We're not hauling wood. We have a Kubota tractor I can use for snow plowing. This is just a runabout for the ranch. Even electric would probably work. I don't think we want some no name Chinese thing. I'm around and live about 15 miles away but I can't be there 24/7. We watched a video about Polaris UTV 570 but that's the only video we watched. I frequent other board like those about muscle cars and we're always wary about first time posters especially if they're selling something. I'm not selling but I am a serious buyer and I'm trying to move rather quickly on this. Thanks, Steve in Colorado.

Kinda concerned that he hasn't chimed in yet 😉

I have had mine since 2019. Don't have many hours on it. I purchased it from the factory in Texas. It was an auction. When it was delivered, the roof was missing. Apparently it broke and blew off in transit. The driver refunded me $200.00. The next morning I contacted Massimo and advised them of what happened, and was fully prepared to purchase another roof. This was a floor model, so it didn't have much of a warranty. Much to my surprise, they sent out a new one free of charge. I have also had some technical questions, and one of their techs has been very helpful with wiring diagrams, tech advice, etc. I know that hasn't been the case with some owners, especially those who bought their machine through Tractor Supply. Apparently Massimo has not been prompt with warranty reimbursements with repair shops, causing most shops to refuse to work on them. Believe me, I get that. Maybe this will all change, especially if they want to step up their sales and service. I just wanted to say that I have been fortunate to have good encounters with the factory. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

As long as it does not say MASSIMO anywhere on it , you should be good

Hydrogen combustion and Hydrogen Fuel Cells are the only "green" solutions that makes sense. Too bad finding fueling stations still isn't anywhere close to where we need to be.

Actually, the Massimo's are now made by Linhai. Although the grill on my TBoss550 says Massimo, there are Linhai stamped parts everywhere else. But agree with Travis, alot of Hisun owners reporting problems here.

Have the head and block mating surfaces checked. Sure sounds like a warped head or maybe a crack between the cooland and oil passages. Common occurrance when overheted and run until it runs no more. If warped, might be able to have the head and/or block machined. A crack can also be repaired (maybe).

Sounds like the machine thinks it's low on oil. Since it must still be under warranty, I'd let the dealership sort it out.

Okay I think I figured it out, apparently that piece should have stayed on the engine and not came off with the oil filter, so I have installed back on the engine and then put the oil filter on had a momentary brain freeze.

Yes I do. Worst mistake i ever made.

Hi, I’m new to the group and just thought I would share a few photos and introduce myself. Bryan

Thanks to all in this community for responding. So I’m strictly an amateur, but I read and then researched the advice generously offered. I’m happy to report that the case housing the belt drive had a preexisting plug, I pulled that plug and roughly 8 ounces of water poured out. I left the plug out for a couple hours, hoping to allow it to dry, and it started right up and engaged and drove normally afterwards. Again, thanks to all who responded, very thankful.

This from Amazon ($199) says it fits 2006-2009 Left or Right. Replaces OEM# 611-04071A, 911-04071A What exact model is yours (it should have some "4xxx" model designation)? Look in to a local automotive CV joint repair shops--there's more about this stuff that's the same than different, some sharp mechanic may look at it and say "I know what that is!"...

The .swf files are "Shock Wave Flash", Adobe's original name for what became just "Flash". They likely just serve up the .jpg files in an indexed manner--I might be able to convert it to something else if you'd like top send me a copy of the CD... -cliff-

As the title suggests, today marks 120 days and 520 miles since I bought my 2020 UT400 from Tractor Supply. I like it, here;s a synopsis of my experience so far: Delivery on 10/29/2020 was uneventful, BUT my first ride was interrupted by the damned undocumented seat belt safety "feature", the staff at TS knew nothing about it, but somewhat accidentally I found the driver's belt was wired and "bugged"--problem #1 solved;; Next I had to screw around with the State of Florida to get it registered and titled--that took a month and my trailering it 150 miles round trip to have it "inspected' and documented as a 'low speed vehicle'"; Got it titled on 11/25/2020; At 13-15 miles or so it decided it did not like shifting into reverse--the shift cable adjustment is finicky, with examination and trial and error I developed an adjustment procedure around the neutral position; At 15 hours I changed the fluids as recommended; Next, nothing major for the next 400 miles when I changed the front and rear gearbox juice just to make me happy; Today I drove it to the beach (2.5 miles East, including 1.2 miles at 45+ mph (50 on the "Clock", 45 on the GPS)--the dog and I had a great time. This was the 4th or5th time I've had it "on the road" at 40+--it seems to like or at least tolerate it. Beach, dunes, deep sand no problems. 26 mpg overall since new--not too bad. It's a well engineered and built machine however Coleman and Hisun are shooting themselves in the foot with their crappy documentation--I've contacted both but they don't seem to care. I like it!!!

Actually you can, the real differences between GL-4 and GL-5 are nearly negligible. GL-5 is claimed to handle shock loading better than GL-4; and be slightly more "slippery" making the EPA happy.. If I had an axle with dirty oil that really needed to be changed, and had nothing but a bottle of GL-4 on the shelf, I use it and not lose a moment's sleep...

I heard that too--it was just a whiie back on one of those "I can't believe people can possibly get any stupider." days--kind of like November 4, 2020. Though in this one I'm not sure to whom the coveted "Moron of the Year" award (the "Dummies") should go--the nitwit that sprayed her hair with contact cement, or the idiots in the hospital that doused her head in acetone...

BINGO!--I read this in your first post " has a lift on it " and thought to myself--well there you go... Contrary to popular web-based "fast &furious" opinion, and every now & then, the engineers that design this stuff actually do know what they are doing.

Better make a bunch. They may need to double or triple the masks.

My maternal grandfather (a Scotsman ME) always told us that "...the last time any machine started and ran properly may well have been the last time it will start and run properly." Also, "God created men and they are imperfect--men created machinery, so guess what that makes machines."

I recently acquired a new 2020 Coleman Outfitter 400 and overall am quite pleased with it. I had the "too be expected" loose bolts (first thing I checked), all related to the final assembly conducted by the pimple-faced kid "mechanic" at Tractor Supply.--the bolts in the upper driver's side roll bar joint were just hand tight, as were those of the upper seat belt anchors--but other than that it had been pretty well assembled. The included owner's manual is not current; it speaks of using the choke to cold-start the motor (it's EFI, no choke), and shows the ignition and lighting switches as dash-mounted when in fact they are on the steering column. It also direct you to remove the seat to change the spark plug--except that on this revision the cylinder tilts rearward and the cylinder head in found beneath the dump bed. Other maintenance tasks are similarly ill-described and it is generally useless. I did find the exhaust note to be a bit strident and devised the following to tone it down a bit. I used one of those inexpensive 1" NPT female inlet B&S "muffin" mufflers that have been around for decades, and a steel 1" EMT to steel box adapters that have been available for a like time: 1" EMT has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm, the tailpipe extension on the beast is 28 mm O.D.--so I use a partially overlapped cylindrical shim spacer of 28 ga. (0.47 mm) galvanized sheet metal to fit the EMT adapter to the tailpipe . Bedded well in muffler putty the single set screw on the adapter mounted it up quite firmly.On my first ride I found the motor to feel and sound a bit constipated--so i drilled out the 106 1/8" holes in the faced of the muffin to 9/64". This is a 26.5% increase in area [(9/64)^2 / (1/8)^2 = 1.2656] That made the difference needed to restore proper flow without making it too loud again:It is arguably not a pretty as some of the $100+ aftermarket alternative, but at $15 for the muffler and adapter it better fits my budget.Make sure you get the genuine B&S part (# 392989) as the 3rd party clones lack an inner baffle that makes them inherently louder than the B&S piece. FWIW--I also removed the front anti-roll bar--and have found little to no adverse effect on handling (and arguably some positive effect)--it also got rid of an annoying rattle from the low-quality driver's side roll bar tie-rod end. Put in an iridium spark plug too... [update] For anyone who cares. I have re-drilled the 106 outlet holes to 5/32" which seems to be a sweet point. I had the beast running 45 mph (indicated, 40 by GPS) t'other day and it felt a bit "held back" so when I got home I hogged out the holes to 5/32"--another 23.4% area on top of the 9/32' holes (56% more than the original 1/8" holes). Went out today and got it going 53 mph (indicated, 47 per the GPS). Coleman and Hisun claim 38 mph top-end for the HS400 but I knew it had more than that. So, I Think the 5/32" holes are about optimal. I need to take the B&S thingy off and see what it can do, however it (the B&S thing) is so nicely mounted and sealed now that I don't want to mess with it... [/update]