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  1. Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these
    6 points
  2. In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.
    5 points
  3. White smoke is usually coolant leaking into the cylinder. Sounds like a blown head gasket to me.
    4 points
  4. Just wanted to give update . It was the ecm. Put new one on and got spark immediately to front cylinder. Ran but smoking and no power. I checked back cylinder and no fire. Pulled coil to check with meter and found wire was not getting good connection where it plugs into coil. All good now . She will scream !!!. Next is to figure out why 4x4 switch wont turn. Thanks for all the imput....
    4 points
  5. Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.
    3 points
  6. Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.
    3 points
  7. 42 downloads

    Found this floating about the web today--it's a nice manual... 2005-2012 Kawasaki Mule 610/600 Service Manual
    3 points
  8. I have come to the conclusion @Joe Toup must be one of the very best, most helpful members here!!! He has been tireless sharing his knowledge and expertise helping me solve a problem. I am sure I'm near a good solution thanks to Joe!!👍👍👍
    3 points
  9. There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake. I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released. If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.
    3 points
  10. anybody else getting spam /fraud private messages on here besides me? How do I report it? He calls himself Maria .under ORANGE 15 name.. wants to hook up in UTVs .. con artist in Pakistan probably.. Cant ADMIN block this crap ? geesh
    3 points
  11. Just looked at the Lowes add for that, pretty much looks like an MSU 500/700 that Hisun made for Massimo back then. Take a good look at the badging on parts to see who it's actually made by, my guess is it's still Hisun.
    3 points
  12. Its my 2nd day on this plat form. I'm new here in this community but in these two days I got some Premium recommendations. I was in search of these recommendations form the past few months. Thanks you so much for creating such kind of the community. Regards: Zeeshan Mehmood
    3 points
  13. Put 15 miles on it today mostly on the beach in 4WD--the front diiferential is definitely smoother and quieter, and engaging/disengaging 4WD and front lock more positively with the ATF...
    3 points
  14. 14 downloads

    Here are a couple more 3D printer files for the HS400/Coleman UT400 & Outfiltter 400. Included in the .zip file are my version of a seat belt interlock defeat insert (SeatBeltThing-01.stl) and an oil filler adapter allowing a 1/2"I.D. hose to be attached making adding oil a less messy operation (OIlFiller-whole-03.stl) --both may also work on other UTVs with similar the seat belt connectors and a 3/4" x 10 threaded dipstick...
    3 points
  15. 213 downloads

    I got this from Coleman, detailed instruction re: shift cable adjustment...
    3 points
  16. So how can i fix my UTV? " we'll circle back"
    3 points
  17. The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.
    2 points
  18. Hello Everyone Brand new Joyner CV AXLES are waiting to be unloaded at LA port and then be sent to warehouses in Charleston, TN , BALTIMORE, MD and Groveport, OH. Estimate they will be available for shipments to end customers in about 2-3 weeks. These CV AXLES are ordered in February this year and now it is middle July. Very long time to get these parts. Qty for each model is not big. Detail as below: S/N Part No. Description Charleston, TN BALTIMORE, MD Groveport, OH Total 1 D650.03.02.02.00 650 Sand Spider Rear left 3 2 3 8 2 S650.03.02.02.00 650 Commando Rear 7 6 10 23 3 TR1100.03.01.03.00 TR1100 Front 3 3 4 10 4 D650.03.02.03.00 650 Sand Spider Rear Right 3 2 4 9 5 S800.03.02.02.00-R2 800 R2/4 Rear Shaft 4 4 6 14 6 TR1100.03.02.03.00 TR1100 Rear 6 5 9 20 7 S650.03.01.02.00 650 Commando Front Left 3 3 4 10 8 S650.03.01.03.00 650 Commando Front Right 3 3 4 10 Below items are also available. These items can be shipped in days CAGE: 1. 800 Renegade R2/R4 Front outer cage --- 5 pieces 2. 800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear Left outer cage --- 5 pieces 3. 800 Viper SV1100 Drive shaft rear left inner cage --- 3 pieces CV BOOT: 1. 650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front /650 Sand Spider Rear Left / 650 Sand Spider Rear right / OUT CAGE 2 pieces 2. 650 Commando Rear OUT CAGE 1 pieces 3 Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear OUT CAGE 2 pieces 4 650 Commando Left Front / 650 Commando Right Front INNER CAGE 1 pieces 5 650 Sand Spider Rear Left / 650 Sand Spider Rear right INNER CAGE 1 pieces 6 650 Commando Rear INNER CAGE 1 pieces 7 Trooper Front / Trooper Rear / 800 R2 R4 Rear OUT CAGE INNER CAGE 2 pieces Anyone who need above items please contact me at [email protected]. Thanks. Other Joyner items needed, you can also contact me and I will try to help. Have good day Casey / Leaf Asia 2021-07-20
    2 points
  19. https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.
    2 points
  20. Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.
    2 points
  21. The P.S. has me thinking......you mention "Fuel mist" out of the valve rocker cover. All you should is basically NOTHING at crank speed. Any vapors blown out are from blow by (past the rings) into the crankcase. IF you are OVER FUELING and wetting down the cylinder walls (that is, washing off the oil coating) you will have blow by. Oil coating helps seal the rings. That is why an engine that has set (dried out) and low compression is given a shot of WD-40 or any light oil to seal the rings. This leads to the next thought.....If over fueling, the raw gas will "drain" into the crankcase and dilute the motor oil. Check motor oil level.....too high?....too thin?.....wipe on tissue and sniff the oil....Gassy smell?....will light off with a burn test (soak up some oil on a paper towel and see how fast it starts to burn). Oil basically won't. Diesel will start slowly but take off. Gassy oil....if you value the hair on body parts...hold at a distance with long needle pliers!!!! Gassy diluted motor oil will add to the fuel/air mixture via the breather tube. Similar to a turbo seal failure on a diesel......RUNAWAY even after the injector pump shut down...very bad ending! Drain oil and replace filter....won't get it all (always some oil remains that cannot drain) but will dilute the gas. BONUS: Pulling the vent tube will clean up a mystery RICH run be it carb or FI (everything is correct BUT) after the motor warms up and cooks off the gasoline----sorta like an EGR Evap system. Slop fuel never lights off or barely runs depending on the degree of "slop". You state pulling the injector, the engine runs until it runs out of fuel. ARE you leaving the injector hole OPEN. This will allow lots of fresh air into the cylinder and will light off a rich mixture and then die because no more fuel is injected. ASSUME the ECM is sending the correct pulse width to the injector for now. Injector can hang and "piss" instead of spray. The key is the 14.7/1 air fuel mixture. Too RICH.....runs heavy and then dies at idle. May start to run, but as the leftover UNburned charge gets richer-----labors-----pukes. Too Lean......no start....fuel is there but cannot lite off.....then as it builds up, you get a pop only to be to lean again.....repeats the cycle.....THIS IS HELL ON THE STARTER AND REDUCTION GEARS. This also load the oil with gasoline (unburned). Again the fuel correct, look for a restriction in the air intake (not enough air).....common causes....CRITTERS...mouse house....full of acorns....rag pulled in for a nest, and so on. EASY TEST: Remove the air intake plumbing at the throttle body. Plenty of air now. If runs, check out the air box/plumbing. IF NO RUN....next section. Too much fuel: Time to test the ECM/injector system. ANY BAD input signal to the ECM will make the fuel delivery too much or too little. Pull spark plug. Read the insulator tip color. Just right is a light TAN color. Very WHITE...blistered LEAN. RICH has a BLACK, SOOTY, shiny black/wet black (carbon is fuel soaked). If really black, they might fire outside to the engine block BUT "blowout" under compression even at idle. If not too bad, they might run at idle but when sputter and die when a heavy demand on the ignition system (acceleration) is applied....drop in a new plug for testing to just to reduce the possible list of problems. Pull the connector to the fuel pump (under the pass seat). This is the fuel pump power (from ECM) and fuel level signal. No guessing if you found the right fuse/relay. This will stop the fuel delivery (40 PSI) to injector. Injector will still get pulses. You will shoot a short burst of starter fluid into the air box (plumbing reattached and filter OK). The motor should lite off and run until it is out of fuel. Repeat. Repeat. If works every time, give a double burst when running to "sustain" the run. Repeat. If this works, you have the ECM/input signals to ponder. This gets deep for most. Coolant temp sensor....open circuit RICH. Thinks it is at the SOUTH POLE -40 C. Like a choke for carb. Throttle position sensor.....wrong fuel mix to match the air thru the butterfly valve. MAP sensor/ambient air temp....measures engine load....wrong signal rich and lean. O2 sensor....signal to tell if RICH or LEAN. Has heater circuit to get it up to operating temp. Heaters open (toaster that does not toast). Throw in smashed wires, critters that live the taste of plastic insulation on wires, stick run thru harness, heater shorted to SHARP edged heat shield above the exhaust. More common failures are the MAP/IAT (intake air parameters) and O2 sensor. You got a lot of checks to get down to where the problem is. BTW, the ECM is a DELPHI MT05 small engine unit capable of a twin (2 inputs for the two cylinders individual O2 sensors). Check out web page for specs, pin outs for both the Grey and Black connector (PDF format)....magnitudes better than the "manual" supplied when first built. Only covers the electrical engine management with a generic diagram of the analog input(s) and the outputs like fuel pump, ign coil, etc CHOW.
    2 points
  22. View File Outfitter-UT400-ShiftCable Adjustment I got this from Coleman, detailed instruction re: shift cable adjustment... I forgot to mention you will need two 22 mm wrenches for the cable lock nuts. I hacked up a couple of cheap "quality tools for less" combination wrenches using a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder: Kind of like "flare nut wrenches", good for light duty like this. Submitter cliffyk Submitted 03/19/2021 Category Coleman
    2 points
  23. A few pics and a short write up on my installation of the Ice Crusher heater kit for the Coleman / Hisun 400. Ice Crusher makes a kit for the Coleman 400 which includes a dash mounted heater core mounted in a compact housing that includes 2 heat outlets that can be aimed wherever you want or closed, a built in coolant shutoff valve for summer use and a 3 speed fan. The kit has all needed hoses,fittings,clamps and hardware so you don't need to hunt around for anything else in theory. The unit is well made and everything seems solid and sturdy enough to live in a UTV. Installation is pretty straight forward,raise the front about a foot and start planning where things need to go. Detailed instructions are included as well as a template on where to position the holes where the 2 hoses pass through the "firewall". There are instructions on exactly where to position the mounting screws etc for the heater unit etc. I did encounter a problem with the hose positioning template which positioned the holes about 1" too low and caused a problem with mounting the rear support bracket. I contacted the company and worked with their engineers to amend the template for future buyers. The coolant tap ins are basically cutting the original coolant hoses going to (passenger side) and from (driver side) and installing the supplied 3/4" to 1/2" tee fitting. One 1/2" hose connects to each of the two heater core pipes. The theory is that some of the coolant is directed through the heater,which should be adequate for cab heat. I found that the original radiator is quite large for the little 400 motor and didn't really allow the heater to provide heat for very long before getting too cool to help much. The solution was to add a 3/4" heater shut off valve in the passenger side radiator hose between the tee fitting and the radiator. This allows me the option of directing all of the hot coolant through the heater or a blend depending on conditions. This valve is a cable operated style with a simple push pull knob installed in the dash.Having the front end raised makes it easy to simply refill the radiator without the need to bleed the system. Very effective. After sealing up the soft enclosure, the heater is about as effective as a regular car of truck unit. The blend valve is available at any auto parts store as a kit with the cable and hardware for about $25. I have had zero issues with overheating even when running for a hour on the roads with all the coolant going through only the heater The heater kit sells for $399,which isn't cheap, but I figured with as fully equipped the Colman 400 is at the price I paid ($6999), why not make it as comfortable as possible? https://photos.app.goo.gl/L64ECvfTKDPjje4KA
    2 points
  24. Couldn't have said it better myself. For a guy who hates Hisun he sure spends a lot of time posting in the Hisun forum...
    2 points
  25. That's extremely prevalent on the internet. I get random emails like that almost daily. They always seem so innocent. But you would think that some people would be cautious, with all the red flags with any of those emails. I just delete them and move on. Maybe it's just my pessimistic view of the world.
    2 points
  26. Update on my Axis 700. Contacted Lowe’s to explain what happened. Store manager, Fatima, in Mechanicsville VA was awesome. She paid for my gas for the round trip back which was $170 and then doubled it. She then gave me a new 700 with full tank of gas. It ran good yesterday so we’ll see. I told her if any happens again, I will be taking it to the nearest Lowe’s for a full refund and she said she would make sure it was taken care of. The original 700 did start after a trickle charge. Had to be a bad alternator, or loose wiring. These things do happen. I wish I could purchase a more expensive utv, however I lost my job because I refused to take the vaccine, so I’m on a budget. This definitely fits my budget. Great deal when you add my 10% military discount.
    2 points
  27. Love mine. Great success dealing with Massimo getting parts. Go to any manufacture's forum and you'll run into same thing... the whinners. Just like here. No one has yet made an indestructible machine. I once worked in a music store and the manger used to say "put a cast iron anvil on the demo floor and someone will make music with it and someone else will break it"
    2 points
  28. Yep. Mine is the same. This shows you have a full tank. The indicators will disappear from right to left as it consumes fuel.
    2 points
  29. Hydrogen combustion and Hydrogen Fuel Cells are the only "green" solutions that makes sense. Too bad finding fueling stations still isn't anywhere close to where we need to be.
    2 points
  30. Are you using the right oil for a wet clutch?
    2 points
  31. It could be a fault in the carb, a lot of the aftermarkets aren't very strict on quality control. the main jet could be oversized a few thousandths and that would affect running. The only adjustments on these Honda carbs, besides the Idle speed adjustment, is the Mixture screw on the side of it, Some of these have them, some of them don't. If your carb has this adjustment screw, the proper way to set it is to warm the engine up, and adjust that screw in or out, until the engine reaches it's highest Idle RPM, that's where the engine is getting the most fuel. you can turn the screw in about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn that will lean the mixture out just a little bit. you may now need to readjust the idle RPM with the plastic screw on top of the carb. If it still runs rich after this, most likely there is a issue with the aftermarket carb, i had a problem finding a carb to fit the GX390 on my pressure washer, i finally bought a OEM Honda carb.
    2 points
  32. A machine that has 16 hours on it, should still be under warranty. Why not try that first?
    2 points
  33. 2 points
  34. To get the heat shield call Grenada Bad Boys and ask for Mike JR in service. Number is 662-307-2729. A couple positive things about it is they are a Tracker Dealer and they actually use their machines. See item is that the heat shield is hinged to allow you to open it up in the winter when you want that heat hitting your firewall.
    2 points
  35. Stopped by to say hi and to add s few photos. Bryan IMG_3555.MOV IMG_3556.MOV
    2 points
  36. That is just normal operation and the same with cars and trucks! But the issue is with these the firewalls are not insulated!!! so we feel it
    2 points
  37. Your probably picking up the heat that the Radiator Fan is throwing at the dash. There is a guy in Mississippi that makes a Radiator deflector shield that mounts to the back of the Radiator and deflects the heat down to the ground. I installed one on my machine and it does help a lot with the heat. The shield is also hinged so that in the winter time you can lift up on the door and now you have the heat coming back to the firewall to help with warmth in the cab. The only thing I can’t tell you yet is how much dust is the shield going to kick up while on the trail. I’m scheduled for another trip to the Hatfield And McCoy trails in October and will find out then.
    2 points
  38. Guess I'll need a kit for the table too...
    2 points
  39. Go to Engine Coolant Sensor on top of the head.....will look like a mini spark plug. Single wire. This runs to ECM. The sensor is a special resistor that changes resistance value.....most are NEG....meaning the value goes down as the probe end in the coolant gets hotter....and of course the reverse also for R high at low temp. Test time DVM DC VOLTS. Pull and probe the ECT plug....KEY ON. You should have +5 ish Vdc....source is ECM signal input that has an INTERNAL resister in series to +5 source. The DVM "sips" current....thus NOT A LOAD. Next....DVM R range. N to head body and P to sensor tip connection. You should have some resistance (don't have specs) say cold 10K to 100K. An open sensor pellet will be INFINITE...same as leads apart.....which is bad. Your message stated the Error Code was high voltage or open circuit. With out a load....Meter doesn't count.....you get +5Vdc from ECM at ECT sensor connecter. If ECT is good (a resistance load) AND wiring is good, the voltage will be less than +5 due to voltage divider action. The changing sensor will change the inputs voltage....calibrated to temp to control fuel delivery.....Like the TPS, a swing from 1V to 4V. That's how it is supposed to work. Your problem is one of 3 items harness/connectors/ECT. If no +5 at connector, check at ECM....if good, find the open ckt. The open circuit makes the ECM think it is at the South Pole @ - 40 deg C....dumps extra fuel for a COLD start. Check spark plug for sooty black or wet electrode....clean and dry or start with a fresh plug because fouled plugs may look sorta ok, but no or weak spark. CHOW
    2 points
  40. Thanks to all in this community for responding. So I’m strictly an amateur, but I read and then researched the advice generously offered. I’m happy to report that the case housing the belt drive had a preexisting plug, I pulled that plug and roughly 8 ounces of water poured out. I left the plug out for a couple hours, hoping to allow it to dry, and it started right up and engaged and drove normally afterwards. Again, thanks to all who responded, very thankful.
    2 points
  41. This from Amazon ($199) says it fits 2006-2009 Left or Right. Replaces OEM# 611-04071A, 911-04071A What exact model is yours (it should have some "4xxx" model designation)? Look in to a local automotive CV joint repair shops--there's more about this stuff that's the same than different, some sharp mechanic may look at it and say "I know what that is!"...
    2 points
  42. 12 downloads

    Here are a few little parts I made for my new coleman 400. One is a dummy seat belt clip to make the speed limiter think a belt is engaged (for diagnostic purposes only, do not ride without your seat belt on.) Another is a replacment for the circular grommets in the front corner of the bed. The last is a replacement for the rectangular cap at the rear of the frame near the hitch. Parts may need a little sanding depending on your print settings. Enjoy!
    2 points
  43. View File Coleman HS400 3D printed parts Here are a few little parts I made for my new coleman 400. One is a dummy seat belt clip to make the speed limiter think a belt is engaged (for diagnostic purposes only, do not ride without your seat belt on.) Another is a replacment for the circular grommets in the front corner of the bed. The last is a replacement for the rectangular cap at the rear of the frame near the hitch. Parts may need a little sanding depending on your print settings. Enjoy! Submitter tsheh4 Submitted 04/16/2021 Category Coleman  
    2 points
  44. Missed you'll last weekend, this is like my Sunday paper.
    2 points
  45. Actually you can, the real differences between GL-4 and GL-5 are nearly negligible. GL-5 is claimed to handle shock loading better than GL-4; and be slightly more "slippery" making the EPA happy.. If I had an axle with dirty oil that really needed to be changed, and had nothing but a bottle of GL-4 on the shelf, I use it and not lose a moment's sleep...
    2 points
  46. I heard that too--it was just a whiie back on one of those "I can't believe people can possibly get any stupider." days--kind of like November 4, 2020. Though in this one I'm not sure to whom the coveted "Moron of the Year" award (the "Dummies") should go--the nitwit that sprayed her hair with contact cement, or the idiots in the hospital that doused her head in acetone...
    2 points
  47. BINGO!--I read this in your first post " has a lift on it " and thought to myself--well there you go... Contrary to popular web-based "fast &furious" opinion, and every now & then, the engineers that design this stuff actually do know what they are doing.
    2 points
  48. you know its funny..... we havent had a winter down south like this in 100 years. Biden gets elected and BAM!!! HELL FROZE OVER !!!
    2 points
  49. most Golf cart batteries are designed to be capable of discharging up to 80% of their charge, while most deep cycle marine batteries are capable of discharging up to only %50 of their charge. this article may be more helpful, https://www.dixiebattery.com/products/golf-compare
    2 points
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