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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

happy new year!

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!

Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.

Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

The P.S. has me thinking......you mention "Fuel mist" out of the valve rocker cover. All you should is basically NOTHING at crank speed. Any vapors blown out are from blow by (past the rings) into the crankcase. IF you are OVER FUELING and wetting down the cylinder walls (that is, washing off the oil coating) you will have blow by. Oil coating helps seal the rings. That is why an engine that has set (dried out) and low compression is given a shot of WD-40 or any light oil to seal the rings. This leads to the next thought.....If over fueling, the raw gas will "drain" into the crankcase and dilute the motor oil. Check motor oil level.....too high?....too thin?.....wipe on tissue and sniff the oil....Gassy smell?....will light off with a burn test (soak up some oil on a paper towel and see how fast it starts to burn). Oil basically won't. Diesel will start slowly but take off. Gassy oil....if you value the hair on body parts...hold at a distance with long needle pliers!!!! Gassy diluted motor oil will add to the fuel/air mixture via the breather tube. Similar to a turbo seal failure on a diesel......RUNAWAY even after the injector pump shut down...very bad ending! Drain oil and replace filter....won't get it all (always some oil remains that cannot drain) but will dilute the gas. BONUS: Pulling the vent tube will clean up a mystery RICH run be it carb or FI (everything is correct BUT) after the motor warms up and cooks off the gasoline----sorta like an EGR Evap system. Slop fuel never lights off or barely runs depending on the degree of "slop". You state pulling the injector, the engine runs until it runs out of fuel. ARE you leaving the injector hole OPEN. This will allow lots of fresh air into the cylinder and will light off a rich mixture and then die because no more fuel is injected. ASSUME the ECM is sending the correct pulse width to the injector for now. Injector can hang and "piss" instead of spray. The key is the 14.7/1 air fuel mixture. Too RICH.....runs heavy and then dies at idle. May start to run, but as the leftover UNburned charge gets richer-----labors-----pukes. Too Lean......no start....fuel is there but cannot lite off.....then as it builds up, you get a pop only to be to lean again.....repeats the cycle.....THIS IS HELL ON THE STARTER AND REDUCTION GEARS. This also load the oil with gasoline (unburned). Again the fuel correct, look for a restriction in the air intake (not enough air).....common causes....CRITTERS...mouse house....full of acorns....rag pulled in for a nest, and so on. EASY TEST: Remove the air intake plumbing at the throttle body. Plenty of air now. If runs, check out the air box/plumbing. IF NO RUN....next section. Too much fuel: Time to test the ECM/injector system. ANY BAD input signal to the ECM will make the fuel delivery too much or too little. Pull spark plug. Read the insulator tip color. Just right is a light TAN color. Very WHITE...blistered LEAN. RICH has a BLACK, SOOTY, shiny black/wet black (carbon is fuel soaked). If really black, they might fire outside to the engine block BUT "blowout" under compression even at idle. If not too bad, they might run at idle but when sputter and die when a heavy demand on the ignition system (acceleration) is applied....drop in a new plug for testing to just to reduce the possible list of problems. Pull the connector to the fuel pump (under the pass seat). This is the fuel pump power (from ECM) and fuel level signal. No guessing if you found the right fuse/relay. This will stop the fuel delivery (40 PSI) to injector. Injector will still get pulses. You will shoot a short burst of starter fluid into the air box (plumbing reattached and filter OK). The motor should lite off and run until it is out of fuel. Repeat. Repeat. If works every time, give a double burst when running to "sustain" the run. Repeat. If this works, you have the ECM/input signals to ponder. This gets deep for most. Coolant temp sensor....open circuit RICH. Thinks it is at the SOUTH POLE -40 C. Like a choke for carb. Throttle position sensor.....wrong fuel mix to match the air thru the butterfly valve. MAP sensor/ambient air temp....measures engine load....wrong signal rich and lean. O2 sensor....signal to tell if RICH or LEAN. Has heater circuit to get it up to operating temp. Heaters open (toaster that does not toast). Throw in smashed wires, critters that live the taste of plastic insulation on wires, stick run thru harness, heater shorted to SHARP edged heat shield above the exhaust. More common failures are the MAP/IAT (intake air parameters) and O2 sensor. You got a lot of checks to get down to where the problem is. BTW, the ECM is a DELPHI MT05 small engine unit capable of a twin (2 inputs for the two cylinders individual O2 sensors). Check out web page for specs, pin outs for both the Grey and Black connector (PDF format)....magnitudes better than the "manual" supplied when first built. Only covers the electrical engine management with a generic diagram of the analog input(s) and the outputs like fuel pump, ign coil, etc CHOW.

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

1. No not reliable. Yes, bad seal that leaked oil on drive belt, replaced seal and belt and misc clutch parts. Shift ball detent, both when new. Actually parts have not been the problem, quality is the problem. 2. Have not got rid of it, no one wants it. 3. Kubota Sidekick 4. Damm near impossible, some parts are on ebay. Mine is a MSU500 bought new from Tractor Supply.

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement. When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

maybe he's the hunchback

Wouldnt hurt to just drain the whole fuel system and try fresh fuel. Easy enough to do

are you sure its not water? Dont have any issues with my Turbo Diesel 40HP tractor in cold weather with nothing but Lucas in it. ... .we got in the teens here too for 2 days. started right up.

If your model is fuel injected then look at the AIC valve/servo motor that is located under the throttle body. My 2021 Hisun i.e. Axis 700 periodically does the same thing and the cause is the AIC sticking. The AIC has a small mushroom shaped piston that is internal threaded that opens and closes based on the input to the ECU. The symptom's you described are exactly what I have when it sticks. It did it again to me this last week. The fix for me is to remove it very carefully as it has some small part that can get lost rather easily and clean the carbon off the piston. This time I think I'm going to add a little grease to see if it stops sticking. I might even polish it up gently with buffing compound using a Dremel. I actually loosen the throttle body and turn it to get access to the thing.

Look at the "Man Hole" threads and you will find a cut into the threads, line this up to the flywheel timing marks and that will be your TDC.

Just a idea about an senior and good aftermarket charging system company that has salvaged some new sales failures for a friend. Charging system puked in a few hours after purchase. That takes the shine off of a new unit. Rick's to the rescue. Design wise, the stator is made "light" on the windings so the regulator can be lower cost build....i.e.....cheap as is the "power runs in the OEM harness. The regulator used is a waste excess charging current system. The excess current is shunted to ground over and above that required for the 13.6V ish to charge the battery and run accessories. A higher wattage stator will need a higher wattage regulator. $$$$$$$$ We used Rick's for years.....the latest "problem" I heard about was a xmxmxmx unit that had a strong stator but the voltage regulator used for certain models dies and the regulator is on national back order. NEWLY SOLD UNIT IS UNUSABLE and NO LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL. Rick's built up a "custom" regulator to fix the problem that xmxmxmx Engrs could not or would not fix. It is a multi-year screw up so there was time if Rick's worked up a winner in a week why not the OEM Engrs. Contact Rick's and spec a hotter stator and a matching better regulator. Warning: I have had to beef up the stator wires and regulator supply and gnd wires over the stock OEM wiring harness for some real headlights on street bikes.....too much drop in the cheap wiring runs. Just saying, you might have to do some harness upgrades also. Rick's Motorsports Electrics ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

I have a Massimo Buck 400 2020 model. It is not starting and I am pretty sure it is the solenoid. Anyone know where I can get part? Ebay and Amazon have one but with a different connector. Anybody?

Would like to let everybody with the 23' Z Force units know that Spring Brake Thingy now has a parking brake available for these units. Pretty easy install, the brake pedal does need to come off for a couple holes to be drilled, but that's not all that difficult. These are all made here in the states, like all of our other models. see it at: http://springbrakethingy.com Mods: if we need to do something as a vendor please let me know, couldn't find any info and don't want to brake any rules......

I think that’s prudent. I use only ethanol free in mine. I partially turn the key, to run fuel pump, needle moves to far right, then I I press brake pedal, and fully turn key to start. I then wait until the check engine light goes out, before driving.

Update on slippage in transmission. Don't use synthetic or semi-synthetic motor oil. Thought I was doing a good thing by using UTV/ATV semi-synthetic oil. Owners manual states if you use high quality oil it might cause clutch slippage. Changed motor oil and used Dollar General conventional motor oil 10W-30 and raised idle speed to around 1700 RPM. Most of the issue is gone, will change oil again after I put some hours on the current oil.

Yeah get the piston tdc and then adjust them but that was the problem with my 2019 550colman

Startron is a good brand.

Maybe a dumb question, but do you have your foot firmly on the brake pedal? Mine would do the same thing, unless I pressed hard on the pedal. I did some adjustments to the brake switch, and the problem was solved.

So here's the short of the long and I'd like to run this by others. I got a good deal, but I may have been scammed, depending on the facts behind the scene, as I will explain. I was looking at inexpensive UTVs with what I could afford and had 3 brands in mind. The only one that was available was the Coleman Outfitter UT400, which was sold at Tractor Supply. The internet showed they only had one left, so the next day I went down to take a look. When I got there the salesman told me that the model they had was just sold, but he would show it to me so I could see it. Then he came back and said he couldn't find it, as it may have already been picked up by the buyer, but he would talk to the manager to see what he could do. The manager confirmed the floor model was just sold, but he had one in the back they couldn't sell. He took me to see it and proceeded to tell me they couldn't sell it because a year ago, after they moved from one location from across the street to their new location, they lost the keys. It also needed a gas cap and a couple of the reflectors were missing. Since it was a 2021, he really wanted it out of the store, so he offered it to me for $6000. Now the internet price was $8000, and the tag on the UTV with the sku number said $9000. I told him I'd have to think it over, even though I was saving between $2000-$3000, I wanted to make sure I could get parts, since I also found out that Coleman had filed Chapter 11 back in February. I came back 4 days later and told him I would not purchase if unless I was able to drive it and the only way to do that without the keys was to hot wire it. He was okay with that, so I got it started and took it for a drive. There were a few bangs and clunks that went away, probably due to it sitting around and now knowing that the shifter problems exist, which may have been some of the noise. But all in all, it started right up and for the most part, ran good. I bought it, took it home, and it sat in the barn for almost a week while I was trying to locate parts. Seems that the more I learned about this particular model and it being a 2021, parts were not readily available. Now taking into consideration the manager stated this was a brand new UTV, here is where I started to scratch my head. Supposedly, the UTV sat there unused for about 18 months. The manager said he only started working there about 6 months ago. When I finally did some research and started learning a little bit about the UTV, I was able to check the actual hours and mileage. The dash showed me that there was just under 7 hours and 23 miles on that UTV. Then, when I went to install the new ignitions switch, since I couldn't get keys for the original switch, I had to swap out the connectors only to find out that the wiring to the original ignition switch had one of the wired cut and someone had soldered it back together. After I started to clean the dust and dirt accumulated on it for the past 18 months, I noticed the clear head light lenses were scratch inside and out and the head light compartment was loaded with dirt and debris. Under the hood was mud that had kicked up there and the windshield was also scratch up, both inside and out. Two bolts were missing off a piece on the exhaust system, which I know had fallen off on someone else's UTV, but the bolts vibrated off of his after about a year of use. And today I found out that there may be a wiring problem with a brake light, which by the way is the only light that didn't have a zip tie holding the rubber dust boot on the back of the brake light assembly, which tells me someone else may have tried to fix the problem. So with all that said, I did only pay $6000 for now to be know as a slightly used UTV, saving between $2000-$3000, and with that I am okay - BUT - Was I scammed by the manager at Tractor Supply or him only being there 6 months (if that is the truth), was he telling me only what he was told and he is innocent? So my question is (3 hours later), do I keep it, fix it, and feel good about what I paid for it and what I saved, or return it and do without, because I really can't afford to pay 10 or more thousand for another brand? I do need a UTV to be able to maintain my 12 aces and I'm now 70 years old, so I'm trying to make a good decision here, even though I am still not certain if I was scammed by Tractor Supply or this deal was done in all innocents and miscommunication with Tractor Supply employees. I'm open for any input and thank you in advance.

I still say if manufacturer didnt want you to DRAIN the oil and wanted you to vaccuum it out thru the dipstick, they would not have installed a DRAIN PLUG! just sayin

I just did an oil change on one for a customer. I would for sure drain especially for the first time. the pickup screen behind the plug was 90% plugged with pieces of rtv from assembly and pieces of block casting. if this just got sucked out it would have lost oil pressure very soon. I agree sucking oil out works in some cases but with this type of filter system it should be drained from the plug.

This is why Kawasaki has a 3 year warranty. you're still within the warranty period, i'd let the dealer perform any adjustments it may need.

Same problem, did you find a solution as to why it only starts after the injector is removed?

Sounds like an adjustment issue to me. I don't know if it's a cable or levers that control the transmission, but definitely something is out of adjustment.

Oh they were nasty about it on the phone.. Isaid I wanted it repaired under my warranty , where do I take it and he said.. That aint gonna happen! He said all HISUN warranty is voided ! You must pay for it!....tough luck!.. I said I might sue, he said..go ahead ,you certainly wont be the first! All repair shops in my state refuse to work on them except 2 and only if and unless you pay cash up front anf no warranty on parts .. I spent the last couple years telling everyone about them too ..Mine is now a hybrid of Hisun and Yamaha parts.

I received 4 CV boots from Casey very quickly, would have no problem shopping with them again!

My best guess is that the spline on the fwd end of the driveshaft is stripped out, but only one way to find out...

Joe, everyone on here is well aware of your opinion. Feel free to share useful technical info or answer questions. You have contributed plenty of useful posts over the years, but showing up just to post garbage bashing certain brands isn't useful to the discourse. We are all aware we bought cheaper machines and made compromises in doing so. This forum can be a useful place where we can all come together and share helpful info about these machines.

Obviously Joe you're on an anti-HISUN mission. Just speaking for myself, I'm tired of your constant bad mouthing my machine!! You've made your point, get a life!

This is a 2018 BMS Ranch Stallion.

Dont recall the name of it.. I just Googled UTV engine rebuilders ..Picked one, I emailed the Owner.. he said he was 99% sure one of his YAMAHA rebuilts would bolt up where my HISUN is now.. The Hisun is a Yamaha CLONE.. .. He also said it for any reason it did not, he would take it back.. He also had free shipping .. If mine fails again, I will likely go that route . Currently mine is still running

I have been meaning to write this up for some time. As delivered (in late October 2020) my 2020 UT400 had the expected number of loose "final assembly" nuts and bolts, but even after tightening down everything it still had an annoying metal-on-metal rattle--one f those that was quite audible but difficult to locate. it sounded like some chassis or suspension component but I could not pin it down. So, I took to carrying a large rubber mallet with me and stopping and banging on things when it really got to me. Eventually I tracked it down to the rear uprights for the roll cage moving about on their mounting posts. The left and right rear cage posts slip onto forged steel hubs welded to the frame and were cross-bolted with some very pretty 10 mm dia. binding post type fasteners having an 8 mm threaded internal shank (the Service Manual says they should be torqued to 48 lbf·ft but when I tried all I got was a violent and quite loud "pop" as the head ripped off the female end): Examine the torn apart section and it's obvious why it could not handle 48 lbf·ft. Here's how it mounts, from the service manual; So, I replaced both binding bolts (pretty but not up to the task) with a plain ol' 10 x 1.25 x 50 mm class 10.9 bolts and self-locking nuts; and had at torquing it again--no problems, the cage upright squeezed up tight on the forged post and the rattle was gone making me a "happy 'UTVer'"...