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Yes, please see what you can do. Now, ads are popping up on top of posts and I cannot shut them down, so I can't even read certain posts. I click on the X in the corner and the ad changes with an arrow in the opposite corner. I click on the arrow and the previous as appears.

DON'T BUY A MASSIMO! The quality is soooo bad! I have a 2021 550 TBoss new when inventory of the decent brands was at rock bottom. I paid new what used decent brands were selling for. I quickly learned why. The quality is soooo bad. Out of the gate I had to make numerous adjustments to get it to run, drive and operate smoothly. Couldn't tow anything because the hitch receiver snapped off, the cheap plastic guards in front of the suspension parts broke off in no time, flooring cracked after a bit of use, windshield is now un clear and unusable after cleaning a couple of times (yes, I was extremely gentle), And all of the above and more on a machine I barely use (very low miles) I would love to sell it and buy a good one some day but I don't think anyone would buy it. Listen to all of the advice above and stay away from this brand!

1. No not reliable. Yes, bad seal that leaked oil on drive belt, replaced seal and belt and misc clutch parts. Shift ball detent, both when new. Actually parts have not been the problem, quality is the problem. 2. Have not got rid of it, no one wants it. 3. Kubota Sidekick 4. Damm near impossible, some parts are on ebay. Mine is a MSU500 bought new from Tractor Supply.

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement. When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

Try playing with the adjustment. The 500/550's don't have the same shifter cable/lever issues as the 40's but the cable can stretch over time. If you're getting grinding and popping out of gear it could be worn clutch dogs too, which require some effort to replace as they're internal to the transmission. If you're having shift issues and grinding it's best to be proactive about adjusting because it does damage the dogs over time, and eventually will just pop out of gear at will once the dogs are rounded enough.

That's correct on the MA oil. Some of the info in that post is wrong. There are two things moving the power from the engine to the drivetrain: first there's a wet centrifugal clutch, from that drives the primary cvt pulley, which has a belt to the secondary. The friction material on the clutch is prone to slipping with use of additives "energy Conserving II" API rated oils, which are used in most car oils. Cars use a dry transmission, most motorcycles use a wet clutch where the clutch plates are bathed in oil. The MA rated oils don't have that additive which causes wet clutch slip issues. See attached picture of the friction disc of the wet clutch. Yellow stuff is the friction material. Once it starts slipping you get rapid wear, and also a lot of crud in your oil. Generally speaking conventional vs synthetic, synthetic oils have more uniform molecules and hence lubricate better and resist more wear and tear before going out of spec. They also typically have better additive packages, because the manufacturer expects them to be used for more mileage. Conv vs synth it makes little difference, and I would lean towards changing oil early on these machines being a large single cylinder ("thumper") they get more wear and tear than a normal car engine, and also I've read a fair number of timing chain stretching issues, which is typically an issue with accelerated wear of the pins holding the chain.

Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

I just got off the phone with the company that makes the TINY SCAN 301 and the TINY SCAN TS-140 the TS-140 is the one I have he told me both come with a plug on them that will plug into the Hisun UTV although I have heard the newer HISUN's use OBD2 if you have a UTV like my 2018 HISUN HS-550 Performance made for Rural King by HISUN Motor Company in Texas either Tiny Scan TS-140 or 301 will plug directly into the Hisun diagnostic plug which I finally found when I took the bench seat out and opened the lid over the engine compartment and looked down the driver side of the Engine and found the wire laying way down beside the engine lifted it and low and behold there was the 6 pin diagnostic plug with a plug-in cap that has to be removed to plug in the scanner and replaced to keep dirt and stuff when finished. Hope this helps someone. Oh the 301 does a lot more like connect to iPhone, Android, or PC via WIFI with it's own IP address but is a little over $300 the TS-140 reads and clears codes and only costs $169.

Oh Joe.....ever since you bought your Massimo you've been suspicious 🤣🤣🤣

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

Pink Floyd quote/reference. i am looking for a starter for my 2004 800 Renegade and apparently the place I dealt with before is no longer in business. Any help? Thanks in advance, Kenny

Regular car oil doesn't have the stuff needed to keep wet clutch lubed like it needs Just make sure the oil rated "JASO MA" or "MA2". Synthetic or conventional is up to you. I read somewhere that the "MA2" rating is for engine exhaust with a cat and O2 sensor. And I think the synthetic lets the clutch slip more than conventional. If there is a lot of miles on the clutch with conventional oil. Then switched to synthetic. The clutch is more likely to slip.

The major issue with Joyners is scarce parts support stateside. John Deere uses a CVT on their 825i - no gear shift cable that I know of that works on the Renegade. The shift cables have different part numbers for the same cable. One has a eye on both ends of the cable P/N: S800.05.02.02-R2 or 02.S800.05.02.02 (two different part numbers, same cable). The other cable has a threaded nut on one end, eyelet on the other P/N: S800.05.02.01-R2 or 02.S800.05.02.01 (two different part numbers, same cable). If you can't find someone who can build you a new cable, maybe, just maybe Joyner-USA can help. if you can find and contact them. They're in Mesa, AZ. Their phone number to their address at 1050 West Main in Mesa 480-882-9612. Their Riverview and 18th Pl addresses are way out of date. I was able to get two tires w/rims and two headlights from them in stock. But that was a few years ago.

Hello i have a 2022 Massimo t-boss 550. And it suck’s! I’ve blown 3 clutches 1 was my fault. The starter bearing (clutch). And now I’m dealing with timing and valves. Once you get the bugs out and know what it can’t do it’s ok! And no service. The one person that did help me at Massimo Canada got fired. Lol I’ve been fixing mine since I have no money to buy anything else, by the time I’m done with it it should be ok. I hope lol good luck!!