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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/28/2023 in all areas

  1. Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these
    4 points
  2. Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.
    3 points
  3. Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.
    2 points
  4. 2 points
  5. The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.
    2 points
  6. From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things
    2 points
  7. Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.
    2 points
  8. My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf
    2 points
  9. my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol
    2 points
  10. https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.
    2 points
  11. Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.
    2 points
  12. I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!
    2 points
  13. Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.
    2 points
  14. Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.
    2 points
  15. Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low
    2 points
  16. The P.S. has me thinking......you mention "Fuel mist" out of the valve rocker cover. All you should is basically NOTHING at crank speed. Any vapors blown out are from blow by (past the rings) into the crankcase. IF you are OVER FUELING and wetting down the cylinder walls (that is, washing off the oil coating) you will have blow by. Oil coating helps seal the rings. That is why an engine that has set (dried out) and low compression is given a shot of WD-40 or any light oil to seal the rings. This leads to the next thought.....If over fueling, the raw gas will "drain" into the crankcase and dilute the motor oil. Check motor oil level.....too high?....too thin?.....wipe on tissue and sniff the oil....Gassy smell?....will light off with a burn test (soak up some oil on a paper towel and see how fast it starts to burn). Oil basically won't. Diesel will start slowly but take off. Gassy oil....if you value the hair on body parts...hold at a distance with long needle pliers!!!! Gassy diluted motor oil will add to the fuel/air mixture via the breather tube. Similar to a turbo seal failure on a diesel......RUNAWAY even after the injector pump shut down...very bad ending! Drain oil and replace filter....won't get it all (always some oil remains that cannot drain) but will dilute the gas. BONUS: Pulling the vent tube will clean up a mystery RICH run be it carb or FI (everything is correct BUT) after the motor warms up and cooks off the gasoline----sorta like an EGR Evap system. Slop fuel never lights off or barely runs depending on the degree of "slop". You state pulling the injector, the engine runs until it runs out of fuel. ARE you leaving the injector hole OPEN. This will allow lots of fresh air into the cylinder and will light off a rich mixture and then die because no more fuel is injected. ASSUME the ECM is sending the correct pulse width to the injector for now. Injector can hang and "piss" instead of spray. The key is the 14.7/1 air fuel mixture. Too RICH.....runs heavy and then dies at idle. May start to run, but as the leftover UNburned charge gets richer-----labors-----pukes. Too Lean......no start....fuel is there but cannot lite off.....then as it builds up, you get a pop only to be to lean again.....repeats the cycle.....THIS IS HELL ON THE STARTER AND REDUCTION GEARS. This also load the oil with gasoline (unburned). Again the fuel correct, look for a restriction in the air intake (not enough air).....common causes....CRITTERS...mouse house....full of acorns....rag pulled in for a nest, and so on. EASY TEST: Remove the air intake plumbing at the throttle body. Plenty of air now. If runs, check out the air box/plumbing. IF NO RUN....next section. Too much fuel: Time to test the ECM/injector system. ANY BAD input signal to the ECM will make the fuel delivery too much or too little. Pull spark plug. Read the insulator tip color. Just right is a light TAN color. Very WHITE...blistered LEAN. RICH has a BLACK, SOOTY, shiny black/wet black (carbon is fuel soaked). If really black, they might fire outside to the engine block BUT "blowout" under compression even at idle. If not too bad, they might run at idle but when sputter and die when a heavy demand on the ignition system (acceleration) is applied....drop in a new plug for testing to just to reduce the possible list of problems. Pull the connector to the fuel pump (under the pass seat). This is the fuel pump power (from ECM) and fuel level signal. No guessing if you found the right fuse/relay. This will stop the fuel delivery (40 PSI) to injector. Injector will still get pulses. You will shoot a short burst of starter fluid into the air box (plumbing reattached and filter OK). The motor should lite off and run until it is out of fuel. Repeat. Repeat. If works every time, give a double burst when running to "sustain" the run. Repeat. If this works, you have the ECM/input signals to ponder. This gets deep for most. Coolant temp sensor....open circuit RICH. Thinks it is at the SOUTH POLE -40 C. Like a choke for carb. Throttle position sensor.....wrong fuel mix to match the air thru the butterfly valve. MAP sensor/ambient air temp....measures engine load....wrong signal rich and lean. O2 sensor....signal to tell if RICH or LEAN. Has heater circuit to get it up to operating temp. Heaters open (toaster that does not toast). Throw in smashed wires, critters that live the taste of plastic insulation on wires, stick run thru harness, heater shorted to SHARP edged heat shield above the exhaust. More common failures are the MAP/IAT (intake air parameters) and O2 sensor. You got a lot of checks to get down to where the problem is. BTW, the ECM is a DELPHI MT05 small engine unit capable of a twin (2 inputs for the two cylinders individual O2 sensors). Check out web page for specs, pin outs for both the Grey and Black connector (PDF format)....magnitudes better than the "manual" supplied when first built. Only covers the electrical engine management with a generic diagram of the analog input(s) and the outputs like fuel pump, ign coil, etc CHOW.
    2 points
  17. Hey now, that ain't right 🥴
    2 points
  18. Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.
    2 points
  19. In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.
    2 points
  20. I currently have a 2011 Polaris 400 H.O. that has fewer than 300 hrs on it. My buddy bought it new and I bought it with around 100 hrs. I use it around the farm and to get between two properties that are about a mile apart. I am tired of dealing with the choke when its cold or even cool out. It starts fine and runs ok if your driving but until it gets completely warmed up if you pull up to a gate and get off to open it will die. And because of the choke my wife has a hard time with it. Before I got the 400 I had a 2013 polaris 500 midsize that was fuel injected but aways ran rich and foul plugs. I had it at two different dealers and neither one could fix it. So I sold it and bought the 400. My father in law has a 2015 Polaris 570 midsize which is fuel injected and it is hard to start and cranks more than it should. Needless to say I am done with Polaris and ready to sell mine and move on to something better. I have been looking at the Honda Pioneer 700 and the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX. I was disappointed to learn the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX engine is built by Hysun and not Kawasaki, but that maybe a non issue. Maybe I'm missing another good option that I haven't considered. The main thing is getting something that is bullet proof reliable. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
    1 point
  21. On the massimo msu500 , Start the motor, then press on the gas all the way and let the riv limiter cycle holding the gas pedal all the way down, turn off the ignition, then let up on the gas pedal. Then it should be reset.
    1 point
  22. I am replacing the parking brake cables on my KAF300B2 500 mule. There were missing when I bought it. My question is, what holds the cable into the back plate of the brake assembly? There are grooves in the cable end but none of the parts diagrams indicate a clip or anything to hold the thing in place. I was able to stick them in the holes and use tie wraps to secure the cables in place but that doesn't seem like a good long term solution to me.
    1 point
  23. Open up your hood go into the fuse box the fuse is blowing I had the same problem you'll have power to the pump but the fuse works in an opposite way like a reverse grounding system!
    1 point
  24. Did you or shop reset the computer after changing parts? Kinda simple. Look here for a lot of good information on these and other engines. https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15675 Look at post #5 "Rebooting the ECU Perform the following steps to reboot the ECU. 1. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition on/off for 5 cycles. Make sure each cycle lasts about ½ second, verifying the start of the fuel pump for each cycle. If the fuel pump doesn't start during any cycle, begin the entire reboot procedure from the beginning. 3. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds. __________________ Spud" The Motorcycle Doctor has another procedure for resetting the ECU but I think the above procedure is safer.
    1 point
  25. Try disconnecting the gear position switch on the transmission. Mine was messing up and thought it was in low. Don't really need it unless you like the BEEP!
    1 point
  26. Sounds like an adjustment issue to me. I don't know if it's a cable or levers that control the transmission, but definitely something is out of adjustment.
    1 point
  27. Welcome to the wonderful world of disappointed HISUN engine owners.. We feel your pain.. ........so they told you, you cant use your OFF ROAD FOUR WHEEL DRIVE UTV in muddy conditions eh? Should only drive on paved streets?
    1 point
  28. Oh they were nasty about it on the phone.. Isaid I wanted it repaired under my warranty , where do I take it and he said.. That aint gonna happen! He said all HISUN warranty is voided ! You must pay for it!....tough luck!.. I said I might sue, he said..go ahead ,you certainly wont be the first! All repair shops in my state refuse to work on them except 2 and only if and unless you pay cash up front anf no warranty on parts .. I spent the last couple years telling everyone about them too ..Mine is now a hybrid of Hisun and Yamaha parts.
    1 point
  29. Sounds more like a Massimo to me...............
    1 point
  30. Looks to me like they waited a bit too long to correct their mistake. I'll enjoy watching all these woke companies go down.
    1 point
  31. Doubt it.. You have to hit a mule more than once to make it move... But one thing is for sure, when they jump in and quickly get reamed... it does get their attention.. a day late but they get it now...
    1 point
  32. Maybe some of these other woke companies will learn from Budweiser's mistakes.
    1 point
  33. From what I have heard, Budweiser is taking it on the chin for that decision. Sucks to be them.
    1 point
  34. It wasn't a Bud Lite, was it?
    1 point
  35. 🤔🤔🤔
    1 point
  36. Just remember that, young man 🤣🤣🤣
    1 point
  37. not doing it now..?? go figure.. I guess they think I owed them since I haven t been on lately...
    1 point
  38. Isn't a CF Moto a Chinese machine? I had Chinese made UTV years ago (lost it in the divorce) that had a CF Moto engine. This was a much smaller UTV, but it was impressive. I believe it was a BMS. That thing carried me and my brother in law up some really steep hills during deer season, and through some really wet stuff. Had a hydraulic dump bed, too. It was carbureted, with a manual choke. That was the only thing I didn't like about it. It came from Texas like the Massimo did. I don't see them anymore.
    1 point
  39. As I said. Compression does not dictate octane. Go with the manufacturer recommended fuel or use standard 87 and add octane booster. Same same
    1 point
  40. lol I guess so.. now it makes me watch a freaking 30 sec ad before I can use the forum?? WTF!! Doing great, buddy.. Had my back surgery, feeling like a kid again! How bout you? Everything going well? My MSU 500 / Hybrid Yamaha still banging along , no issues and my new CF-Moto 600 is a bad azz machine.. I am smokin Hondas and Arctic Cats on flat ground and in the mud!
    1 point
  41. I do own a Massimo and owners manual says 10:1 compression [ I did not tear it down and measure components] and it recommends 91 octane or higher .. but you probably know more than they do. no one suggested he would get more power from 91 octane but I do suggest he can detonate enough to destroy a piston with insufficient octane.. If it could run just fine on 87 , HISSUN and Linhae would recommend it . just my 2 cents worth
    1 point
  42. You'll get all kinds of opinions. Just remember they are uninformed opinions because none of these people will know the specifics of the engine design. Required octane isn't based purely on static compression ratio. There are many factors such as valve timing and piston shape . The only thing higher octane provides is the ability to compress the fuel more without pre detonation. It doesn't improve power. Go with the manufacturer recommend fuel. They designed the engine. If you can't get that fuel, use 87 and add an octane boosting additive. Cheaper than unobtainable fuel and just as effective. There's absolutely no good reason or benefits to run 93 octane in these engines
    1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. Just for fun if your compression is as low as you say check the valve adjustments a tight valve could cause the loss of compression and also cause it not to start.
    1 point
  45. if all you should need is a good Three position switch. Off/Run/Start. if i was looking at the correct switch online, there are only 4 wires that go to it, just find out which ones need power or ground in the Off/Run/Start.
    1 point
  46. Oh OK. I gotcha now. I'm just curious if there's a reliable switch to be had out there,
    1 point
  47. As the title says, I am looking for candidates for 6 OEM RSM positions for a confidential client. This company has an extensive line of SxS's and enthusiasts with, or without, career experience in the industry are encouraged to contact me. SUMMARY: This position is responsible for the sale of the organization's products in a specified region or major geographical area and provides ongoing support for sales, marketing and service. COMPETENCIES/ABILITIES REQUIRED: Strong customer service and client focus that demonstrates initiative. Self-motivated to operate and manage large geographic region. Commitment to and demonstration of high ethical standards governing professional behavior and interactions. Demonstrated time management and organizational skills. Developed knowledge of the industry and business insight within a given market. Demonstrated ability to communicate clearly and concisely in written and verbal formats, including sales presentations, demonstrated capability to develop strong interpersonal working relationships and work in a team environment. Proven proficiency in the use of personal computer accompanied by a strong aptitude for technical applications. Valid driver’s license and proven safe driving record. EDUCATION (OR EQUIVALENT EXPERIENCE): Bachelor’s in business, marketing, or a related field; or 5 years of sales experience with a dealer organization, a consumer product organization; or equivalent combination of education and experience. TRAVEL: This position requires up to 75% travel and at times may be extended. Frequently travel outside the local area and overnight. EXPECTED HOURS OF WORK: This is a full-time salary position. Hours will vary based on need. If you meet these requirements and are interested in learning more, please contact me asap! [email protected]
    1 point
  48. Thank you, sir. I may just have to add one to my mower, too. Should there be an inline fuse, too?
    1 point
  49. The real problem, as I see it, is that the codes given are consistent with an engine that's running poorly. So imho, if it's not running with a substantial miss, then something else is going on. Like a possible failure of the CPU. Manufacturers are typically reluctant to give away parts without a reliable, trusted diagnosis of failure, such as that provided by an authorized service center. And a new CPU could be quite expensive, with no guarantee that'll cure the problem. Throwing parts at it is never a good plan anyway. Fixing it yourself, could be a long, expensive, frustrating endeavor. Complete with long down times, and fairly involved diagnostic procedures. If it were me, I'd try to make it Lowe's problem. By any means necessary, including a return.
    1 point
  50. My 2014 1100 sounds like a Vespa - I think it is the 2 catalytic converters...any idea on how to get rid of them and make this sound a bit mean!! Rik
    1 point
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