lowgear

I won't get into a he said she said argument. I'll just state that they don't have and didn't show a document with my signature on it. Also they didn't include any of the email's they got from DHL, especially the one stating that it was a computer error that caused them to say that I had received it and also that it was waiting to be picked up at DHL. The last email sent by DHL stated to them that they had to make a claim not me they are the shipper.

Like 2scoops and kinarfi said the issues with past models has been addressed. If your use it for farm use and climbing around your farm you can't go wrong with a trooper or any other model of joyner. You need the manual trans not the CVT it will most certainly fail if you start to pull a trailer or anything else. I have a 2008 T2, I don't own a car or truck. I use mine for everything from the street to any off road condition and have pilled up 50,000+ miles on mine. The only thing I ever broke  that was a problem with the t2 from factory was the front diff. the rear I updated when I bought it because I knew about it before hand. Parts has never been a problem before, you can get them from the joyner outlets around the country or at your local auto parts store. The other makers make great buggies for going fast but not for work. I just wanted to put in my 2 cents worth have fun with whatever you decide on. Oh! one more thing I have 2 T2's the other has a turbo and I myself am disappointed with how it runs it takes to long for the power to come in. Yeh I know you can make other additions to it to make it better but I will go with a blower (super charger) next time. The power is always there from idle, all the way up.

On the recommendation from some of you (I have no problem with that) I ordered a ring and pinion from leafasia they sent it buy DHL. I have never before used DHL and did not know that when the parcel got to the USA that they would turn it over to the US Post Office. In the town were I live they don't have home delivery so you need to have your PO Box number on it or they will send it back. leafasia never said anything about this so I just gave them my home address. The PO sent it back from Quartzsite to phoenix were it was lost by the post office. I don't know if any of you has ever run into a problem like this before, but let me tell you it has turned into a nightmare. I have sent many emails to all concerned. The only ones that are really trying to help are the people at DHL. DHL has sent emails to leafasia to tell them that I never received it but because of a screw up buy DHL's computer it says that I did get it but no matter what they tell leafasia by email they insist that I received it. At first leafasia told me that I would not loose my money or the ring and pinion, but now they have washed their hands of it and will do nothing. They are the ones that sent the it but will not try to get it or any money back from either the PO or DHL. I have been told by both that any claim has to be started by leafasia because they are the ones who sent it in the first place. I guess that I am out of both my money or the ring and pinion. If anyone wants to read the emails that were sent both ways let me know and I will try to post them on here. I will have to get help because I don't know how. I hope that this will put a question into everyone about buying from leafasia in the future be very careful. I lost $350.00

I looked up some of the specs on this car and the engine and trans. The car weights between 3,011 and 3,475lbs. I don't think there will be any worries about the auto trans holding up when you compare the difference between a t2 and the cruze no matter how you use it. Also the horsepower this great little engine puts out without the turbo would be enough of a reason for the swap let alone when the turbo gets in the picture. The specs I saw the on the 1.4 said 158hp with the turbo in the 2016 models they didn't say what the torque was in the article I read but it stands to reason it would go up too. I am going to look into this with great interest because I have been thinking about the ecotec for along time but could not find an auto trans that hooked to one. Thanks 2scoops this is some great info.

Has anyone delt with Leaf Asia. I sent them money for a ring and pinion thru Pay Pal and want to know if anyone else has and gotten what they ordered.

I need a rear diff or just the ring and pinion for a T2 1100. Anybody got one or know someone that can help? I also have an 09 T2 for sale 3500.00 it's it great shape and also has a turbo on it only 4700 miles. I am selling cheap because I have to get it gone I am moving.

Thanks MauyThai1 his name is Ricky Masterson, 137 Parkhaven, Waco, Tx, 76712 It would be great if you can help out. I don't check out the site to often sorry it took so long to get back to you. Thanks Lowgear

Do you still have the front diff?, if you do let's talk give me a call 330-646-8327, Jim

I did the same as hfrick, just flipped the stock manifold redrilled and bolted it on. I don't have stock T/B, so my snorkel was custom anyhow no problem. If you go with a larger T/B you will be very surprised at how well it will run. It will add power everywhere from just off idle to the top and it will start better too. The one thing you should do is remove the stock tubes and filter and go to a larger dia. inlet and a better filter. I was told awhile back by Casey that the larger engines have a larger T/B that will bolt right on but they are pricey. There won't be a clearance problem with the stock intake when flipped. If you measure the one you have you may be OK but I am not sure about the one you have. One more thing take off that ribbed tubing on the intake and use smooth walled tube. It will let the air move freely no turbulence. The only area you want the air to bounce around is in the combustion chamber itself, makes a more complete burn.

RickyChuck posted that he had broken the rear diff in his T2. I posted that I had a rear diff for sale and he replied that he wanted it and left his ph# to call him to set up a deal. I called him to get the details arranged and we agreed to the sale. I would send him the diff and he would send the money. He received the diff on 3/3/16 but never paid for it. After several attempts at calling him and leaving messages he never called back. I have made several deals with other members and they have always been problem free, there was never a need to go thru pay pal or anything else to make sure nobody tried to screw the other guy. So he got the rear diff for free and I am out $200.00 for the diff and $60.00 for shipping. I am writing this to let everyone know about it and so nobody will have a dealings with the jerk in the future. I don't know if this will stay in my post but his name is Ricky Masterson out of Waco, Tx. He already posted his phone number on his post about the rear diff., If you want his home address PM me and I'll give it to you.

I don't personally know about Spartan but they would seem to be a good tire for our weight with their high rating. I looked for a long time and tried several tires before I decided which tire I wanted. I bought the super swamper from interco, they truly will run with no air. I tried it and went about 15 miles over trails here in Quartzsite. I didn't run them hard I wanted to find out if they would without any damage. They came through just fine, a little scuffed but OK. I don't remember for sure but I think they have a 1400lb. sidewall rating. They have good traction in everything but dry sand and they corner really well. I looked around and found them for 135.00 plus shipping, I think it was from online tires but not sure.

I have a rear diff. that has the big bearing and side cover ruined, but everything else is OK. If your interested in it for $200.00 plus shipping let me know. This diff has had the update done to it already. I will send pictures if interested.

How much for front diff, and gas tank and is your tank the one under the front hood on passenger side.

I need a complete front final drive or a ring and pinion, for a trooper. I have a rear final ring and pinion, carrier spider gears and bearings with the main half of the housing. The big bearing ruined the side cover housing but everything else is OK. If anybody has what I need please call me 330-646-8327, Jim

Does anyone out there have or know about a used 1100 engine, a friend needs one.

I went to a wireless remote 4 or 5 years ago, for me it was the best way just bolt on the new winch install power and your done. Everything is in the new winch no external relays to worry about. I also went to the synthetic rope 3/8in 100ft long 14000lb.

I have a wet line on mine 5/16in to get fast reading. Mine runs at 25 to 30psi at idle hot and 65 to 70 when moving. I tested mine with differient weight oils and I get best results with 40 or 50w oil if I can get straight weights. If not 20/40 or 20/50 it will turn over slower when it is cold but not by much. I have just under 30,000 miles now with no mechanical problems. I found for myself that changing oil and filter and keeping air filter clean was what I needed to keep mine running smooth. This works for me but everyone does things differient.

does anyone have a good set of stock cams for the 1100 that the want to sell

Can anyone tell me what controls the advance for engine timming. The crank sensor does the basic timing but does the cam sensor control the advance. I'am having trouble with my timing jumping especialy between 2000 and 3500rpm with a slight jump the rest of the way up to 5000 then it seems to advance all the way. I have already tried a new ECM and both sensors.

check iat/map sensor make sure voltage and resistance are right

Kinarfi, I wouldn't leave out the bearing seal and rely only on the wheel seal. The bearing seal is a much better seal to keep out fine dust and dirt, I use both but that's just my way. The brake caliper dust seals may be the same as some of the dirt bike calipers, if you have a jap bike dealer around you I would check with them you might find a match. No you donot want to mix grease some are not at all compatable with others. I think when we talked the other day I told you that the grease will expand with heat, if you put in to much grease it will push out somewhere. Running the bearing in is ok it will help to get the grease into every little spot. If the grease your using is showing signs of boiling out at 100c I think you might want to try another kind the bearings will easily see 100c plus when under stress and the ambient temp is 90f or more.

I need two front rims for my T2 if someone has them please PM me.

I bought a set of tires that have nearly worn out in less than 500 miles. I have not pushed them at all no off road riding yet just easy riding on the street, to the store, bank and the like. I called the place where I bought them and he gave me the number for the factory. I called them and the guy I talked to basicly said to bad we got your money just deal with it. I have had 3 sets of tires on my t2 and none of them came anywhere this close to wearing out this fast. I got at least 11/2 years on the others. The tires are rated at 1000lbs. and they are DOT approved. I bought them because they were approved for the street. The tires in question are EFS Moto Grip A/T, made by Colorado Components. They are in Colorado but I could not find an address for them. If anyone is thinking about buying any tires that are made buy them I think you should maybe consider buying from someone else. This is one of the big problems we have as consumers, we buy American and then when there is a problem with whatever we buy we are told to bad we already got your money now take a hike. Oh and buy the way they are $600.00 a set. It would make me feel a lot better if just one of you went to someone else to buy your next set of tires.

For anyone that has or is going to replace the wheel bearings to the tapered ones and would like some advice give me a call 330-646-8327. The bearings are the ones from Casey the #B31 bearing. These bearings are no longered made and I beleive the company that did make them is no longer in buisness. I don't know how many are left but for those that have T2's or T4's and plan on keeping them I would get your replacements as soon as you can, who knows when they will been gone. I can only give advice on what I have done to make them right. It is not hard to do just takes some work.

When I put in the new wheel bearings (tapered) they tightened up before I could get any preload on them. What I found on mine was the inner races were making contact preventing the rollers from seating. I took the bearings apart and ground off .010 off one of the races so that the rollers could seat. If anyone else has replaced their wheel bearings check to see if you still have a very slight amount off play in your wheel if you do this could be the problem. Tapered wheel bearings need a slight amount of preload for the rollers to seat if they don't it will ruin the new bearing very fast.