Tinman
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Posts posted by Tinman
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Anyone have relatively new or in great shape rear shocks they want to sell me? Live near Miami?
I also have a ton of new spares: wheel bearings, clutch, timing belt, etc... if anyone wants a list with prices, please email
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I mean, only when you're in 4x4? if so, it could simply be your diff lock cable is out of adjustment, even if you didn't use the diif lock. the adjustment is finicky and it will clunk loudly every once in a while if the asjustment is out.
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Does it c'unl when you have the 4x4 on only? it can be the diff locker adjustment.
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Did you take apart the fuse holder behind the seat? when my pump went, i checked those wires and a good third had melted together. You likely have a bad short, and somehow the winch is giving power through the short to the pump and fan, which are linked.
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Thanks Hardy and Kinarfi.
2nd gear is ok but not great. I have to give it a half-second, but when I do, it doesn't grind. Everything shifts fine, which is weird. I'll keep looking. we're usually out every week in th mountains, and wife gets antsy when something pops up...
I'll post the issue once I find it
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I'll get right to the issue in the hopes someone else has come across this:
on my T2 1100 (20,000 miles on original clutch), driving up a climb in third gear, power is interrupted as if there's a missing tooth on the gear or the spline is worn down and the gear slips. I hear no grinding. Just a sudden power 'hiccup'.
Neither seems likely, but I can't explain the issue.
Checked:
differentials. changed the oil, no metal pieces and oil runs clean. Nothing on drain plug magnets. I will be doing the same to transmission oil...
This happens on 4x4. Not sure if it happens on 2 wheel drive, as i usually run it always on 4x4
Has anyone had splines strip, or issues with third gear?
OUTPUT SHAFT
I know of issues where the end has sheared off. Are the new output shafts supplied by joyner better?
If I have to open the tranny, might as well replace that too...
Anything else I ahould replace now that I'm at it?
Thanks to all for any recommendations...
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I had my carbon canister get loaded up with fuel and plugged. No air was getting into the tank, creating a vacuum. Try unscrewing your gas cap.
it's stupid, but worked for me. I chucked my carbon canister.
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My fan's always on. Stock fan was drawing too many amps - kept blowing my 15amp fuse. Went aftermarket, and am on my second 3000cu fan. Bring a new spare fan with me just n case, together with my spare fuel pump, spare wheel bearing, spare ...
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Did the interposing relay, but still had problems. So i:
removed starter and dissassembled. water had gotten in and one brush was seized. easy fix.
Who designed the intake? idiot. flipped it upside down. Now, i can get to the starter easily, plus the MAS doesn't get crammed with mud.
Moved the starter cable from the cutoff switch to the battery direct. Why complicate things?
Everything works good so far...
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Had the same prob. Nearly lost my rear swingarm on an uphill loose gravel climb. luckily, i knew a guy with a 70's landcruiser jacked three feet high and a 10 ton mech whinch. He got behind me, lifted my rear end off the ground and drove 20ks to get me home. Felt like i lost my virginity with that one, haha
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Lucky you. i hear a bag of rocks everywhere. And yes, I did re-lube my cv joints after changing boots.
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Decided to do some changes.
Tons of mud here 8 months of the year, so I added:
Doors. They fold down, which makes it easy to get in and out, and safer if they open accidentally.
A Half windshield which can be fully closed for the torrential rain.
Drop down side windows made of clear plastic.
Changed rear fenders to aluminum, after snapping my rear suspension off and shredding everything plastic.
Beefed up rear suspension where it bolts to frame.
A fold down rear facing rear seat. Lots of smaller stuff, not worth mentioning.
See pics below
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I agree Kinarfi.
I've worked on high performance cars and motorcycles, and they always do when I dump the clutch. Motorcycle clutches are different, but they work the same way. I think I will add the springs. Just have to print Lenny's pic of the throw out bearing fork upgrade. Wife is with me on most of my trips, so it has to be reliable, just so I don't hear the 100 question interrogation as I try to fix the machine.
As an aside, on my last trip, something unusual happened - three different failures:
#1 a short circuit that cut out my fuel pump and
#2 my rad fan. Only found out the total damage as I repaired each in turn.
Then,
#3 no fuel pressure. I patched the pump up directly to the master cutoff switch, but left it on by mistake when I came across an idiot in no-man's land with no 4x4 blocking the road and refusing to budge. Left the master on, pump working, and figured I had burned out the bosch pump when I realized what I did. So, I switched to my old joyner pump. Still, no fuel pressure.
Looked in the tank, it was full of crap. Pulled the hose, and no gas leaked out. Turns out it was blocked. Sheesh. Blew through and it cleared the garbage enough to limp home. suuuu, I got some simple work to do.
Lesson: Always bring extra wire, always look for the stupid solution first. And don't trust your gas stations.
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Lenny, you always have the most detailed, helpful advice. Perfect! And now that I'll be adding the springs, I'll strengthen the throw bearing fork too. Thanks again!
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Clutch and pressure plate?
It's been 15k kms on my machine, and my clutch is slipping. Figured it's time to change it, but should I change the pressure plate too?
Looked in the forums, but haven't seen this question addressed.
Did see Lenny's post on the pressure plate and throwout bearing fork upgrades, but still undecided as mine has worked fine for what I'm doing...
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I drilled a row of holes in the bottom of the stock tank from side to side about mid way front to rear and then welded a sub tank under the main fuel tank. This tank held about 2 quarts. I ran the outlet to the fuel pump out of this sub tank. No matter what I did and no matter what the stock tank was doing, this tank always had gas in it. It was a 2" deep U shaped tank with its ends capped and the top of the U against the underside of the stock tank.
Nice and easy. Thanks Lenny...
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Thanks Lenny!
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I was hoping you'd say that dedub
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The computer does need the temp sensor to work correctly.
Lenny
Which sensor Lenny - the one at the head or the one on the radiator at the bottom?
I took the Rad one out and put my temp sensor there, and have had no running issues at all. Hopefully I pulled the right one...
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I made my own manual connection, and got a cable at the local motorcycle shop. Where I am, it's difficult to get to a machine shop, so everything has been done with a hacksaw, file and drill. It's worked perfectly for well over a year, with no issues at all. You can see it here:
http://www.pauldaytonscifi.com/spotlight.html
You'll have to scroll down.
I did buy a lever from Lenny, which let's me engage the 4X4.
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If you want top quality bearings, a Timken roller one that will fit has the number JRM3565 XD on the outer race, JRM3535A on the inner race.
I've had to use one or the other number to order the actual bearing, as it seems supply companies can't make up their mind on which number to use.
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Mine blew over when the rad fan motor burned out. Only had it for 5 months. Still, I bought another motor, cus I think it's actually a decent fan, just a bad motor. Guaranteed for life if oyu send in the warranty card within two weeks.
I got this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110831358724?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
No damage to the engine. Overheat bulb was burned out too.
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Did all you did - 3000cfm fan, but you need to use the shims to get the diff clearences right, just buy Lenny's kit.
Mine (08) runs anywhere from 160 - 200 at 60mph depending on how hot it is down here in Central america, 140 - 160 down low. Super hot day heading to beach, I was running 210 after 2 hours at 60mph no problem.
but i know the rad will boil over at 230.
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Mine are shimmed. Just that Muaythai said his diff was shimmed and that it still went.
Aftermarket Shocks for Trooper
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
Posted
You mentioned two different sets here. I take it the bottom info is for the rear shocks?