Ernie

Hello guys and gals!

It's now 2012... any new updates on the shocks? How are the ones you put on 2-4 years ago working out for those of you that have replaced them?

Like Kinarfi, I want to just bolt on new little better than the chincey stock ones and go. The King price is out of the question for my retired budget.

I have a 2008? first 5,000 T-2 Trooper.

Thanks,

Ernie

We discovered the problem the hard way, while out on a ride We were able to limp home..

The ball joint popped out of the stub axle, also the axle fell out.

The chintzy bolt was as tight as it could possibly be.

Upon bolt removal and inspection, the threads of the bolt were worn off where the ball joint notch rubs.

I am going to replace all with the 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts and reseat the bushing in the helms bolt .

The dissambled one on the drill press, the others, in place.

This is a very dangerous problem that can't be discovered just by "nutting and bolting" the trooper on a regular basis.

I strongly advise everyone to remove the bolts and inspect them for wear and replace as necessary.

Thanks Lenny for the very good explaination of this fix.

Be sure you mark all the sensors & electrical plugs WELL when you pull the engine. Best tip I can give ya! Read my engine pull & clutch post of last year for tip with throw-out bearing.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

I found that post while I was looking for a post re adjustments. Thanks for the help!

Ernie

New Clutch! Hate to say it but sounds like the fix!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

That is the one answer I was hoping not to hear! Great

Thanks for confirming my suspisions.

Ernie

It's me, Ernie again. I searched high and low for a topic on this before I posted this.

I have no more clutch adjustment by the clutch fork, it's grinding gears.

I unbolted the clutch fork, moved it one notch closer to the hydraulic for adjustment.

It caused too much throw and is now riding the clutch and RPMS are going nuts.

I put it back the way it was and am going to adjust the upper part.

I just cut the firewall to get clearance to access it from the front.

There is no more adjustment from the stock position and is grinding gears.

Does anyone have any suggestions about adjusting? Any and all ideas will be most helpful.

Thanks,

Ernie

Got to agree with Mike, good looking Rig, I like the pouches above the dash, nice job on the radiator & snorkel, what did you you use for fender extenders?

Thanks for the profile, I'm sure we all will enjoy it.

Kinarfi

PM coming

Thanks, glad you like it!

Pouches: Cabelas. They hold all our stuff like glasses, keys, cell phones and trinkets. We also use an atv saddle bag over the shifter/console to hold water, TP, gloves, binoculars. Hooked with velcro over the top bar. Had to modify it a bit as it was originally made for another brand sXs.

The fender extender material (ROLL PLASTIC) comes in in various colors and lengths. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Colored-Plastic-Rolls,1557.html is the direct link to the product at Speedwaymotors.

We've dealt with this company for years and their service/shipping is great.

You can do all 4 fenders with a 10' long roll. 1/8" thick 22" wide. It is rigid, durable and not too costly. We use it on the race car for all kinds of purposes.

to cut it you just score and snap, then file the edges a little. Rivet or nut and bolt the fenders on.

That's what I call, thinking outside the box.....excuse the pun. I gave up wondering how I could route a hose outside of my Enclosure and as the Trooper tray doesn't really get used that often, I reckon your idea is a good one. Personally, at some stage I'd like to use an air ram on top of the rear of the enclosure roof & then on to a box filter (not the stock 09 one) but that would have to evolve a quick release hose to open and close the tray or a hole in the enclosure.

Speaking of Enclosures, I would be interested in knowing if anyone with a Trooper T2/T4, Renegade R2/R4 or Commando C2/C4 would considered a good quality American made aftermarket UTV Enclosure for their Joyner if available. Like Ernie, I'll start another topic to keep this one clear.

Cheers Mike.

BTW, I also put some extruded metal about 2 inches in front of the radiator so if anything on the deck should get too close to the radiator, it won't smash the fins.

The moving of the radiator and snorkel, really helped me, as I had an overheating problem before doing so.

Ernie

I have one of the first 5000 troopers made, so I have the metal deck on the "safari" rack.

I re-routed the air tube from the front towards the back, drilled a hole into the deck, added some tube and bolted it up to the frame of the rack using the same mounting holes the chrome tube had.

Engine breathes much better now.

There is enough slack in the rubber tubing underneath to raise the rack.

Similar operation for the radiator and fan. Engine stays much cooler with it mounted up top.

I also removed the center bar that ran thru the center of the deck.

It was relatively simple to do both.

Hope this helpsyou out Mike.

Ernie

Ernie, your Trooper is one of the nicest looking ones I've seen. It looks fantastic. Can you tell me more about your Snorkel and how it's placed.

Cheers Mike.

Well Thank You Mike! I think that will be way off the gear oil topic so I will post it separately soon.

Ernie

I actually have that list you have put together.....nice to have the update. Thanks!

Ok, will update profile. AND add pictures of my tooper.

Ernie

Ok, some pics are in the gallery and I wrote on my profile.

Ernie

Need a new manual? Scroll down and then down load the .PDF file Parts, Pieces, and Information for our Troopers & Joyners - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum

Also, how about filling out your profile so we can all get to know you better.

Kinarfi

I actually have that list you have put together.....nice to have the update. Thanks!

Ok, will update profile. AND add pictures of my tooper.

Ernie

Thanks! Thought so, but wanted to be sure.

Ernie

Just want to check before I use the wrong stuff.

What weight/brand oil do you all use for the differentials?

Same question for the transmission.

Can't seem to find my dang manual.

Thanks!

Ernie

Hi all,

We seem to have brake pads, just no stopping power... I have bled the breaks. Several times...... manually and with a brake bleeder, talked to joyner mechanics, etc.

Just can't seem to get proper braking. Sometimes it's a hard pedal with no play. Sometimes a normal feeling pedal with no stopping power, sometimes a pedal to the floor.

I've checked for leaks in the system. The actuator up by the fluid bowl acts up once in a while....so you put your toe under the pedal and pull up. Then it works for a bit. the emergency brake works great!

I'm just perplexed.....anybody have any input?

4X4X454

The key word is "YET" Usually, I do my jumping on my Yamaha WR250R and leave the Trooper driving to mama! Mostly we're careful about jumping 'cause we're usually way too far away from camp or home to walk back should we break it. Riverbanks and ditches around here ain't a problem, mama handles them nicely!

Looking forward to the upcoming video!

BTW: We got the dang axle off! The clips were hidin' in there, get them out and the axel just slips right off easy.

Hi Cinda,

The quirks in the electrical system are many. We haven't blown fuses, but things like the gauges and lights react as if fuses have blown. We also had to tighten and tape the gauge and fuel connections....that helped. They kept coming loose.

The electrical system just needs to be traced to find what is causing the problem at the time...either the connection, the bulb or a broken wire inside the insulation.

Brostar,

We made a monster of a slide bar and still couldn't budge the dang thing. It's stuck in there good!

Hi Mike!

Will post the fender extender pics in a couple days. We used that roll plastic you can get from www.speeedwaymotors.com or other race car supply stores like www.performancebodies.com it is about 1/8"or so thick, sturdy and flexible. You can score and snap it. Heat and form it. The edges file nicely. We had the black laying around, many colors available and it is paintable..... We took measurements so they extended a couple inches past the tires and as far under the plastic fenders as they'd go, and again for the length we wanted and cut 'em out and used a heat gun to help shape them into place. Riveted or bolted them on and wa-la! they were good to go.

Have you had to remove a front axel yet? Maybe you have a tip for getting that dang thing off you'd like to share? I've searched hi and low for some kind of advanced troubleshooting instructions, All I can find are the directions for removal with no complications.

Thanks!

Ernie

Thanks!

HI all! We love our Trooper T-2 (2008, one of the first 5000 but with the reinforced rear diff bracket)...We have snorkled the air and oil breather, moved the radiator up on the rear cage , added a top with storage rack, widened the fenders, a plexiglass windshield, nut and bolted the entire buggy, reinforced all electrical connections and anywhere a wire might rub, installed a muffler and waterproofed the underseat compartments. Also have a second set of "street" tires for when the knobbies aren't appropriate. We keep up on all the fluids and recommended maintenance and keep it garaged. Our next project is to raise the height and seal the fuse and ecm boxes and coat everything with die electric grease.

Our machine has performed well on the dunes of Glamis, the back country of the White Mountains of AZ (on the mtn. trails and the high desert scrub). We've even taken it thru the Little Colo. river wash near Holbrook a couple times (that was a blast!). We've gotten it really wet trying to dodge giant "puddles" during the monsoon season (which prompted the fender widening and the snorkeling). It has all the power and abilities to perform what ever we ask of it. (we've even raced it in some 1/8 mile drags.) It outruns/out performs the other more expensive UTV's our friends have, especially in hill climbing and endurance categories. We don't dare jump it....wouldn't want to break any suspension components, not alone the diffs or an axle.

Besides the fuel pump falling off (the first week we owned it), the end of the muffler blowing up/off (towards the end of a 150 mile hard ride), a bit of an overheating problem (solved by raising the radiator), all the boots deteriorating/cracking, the front end steering gear being really sloppy, the lights konking out on a night ride on the dunes, several quirks in the electrical system (even before getting wet), we still enjoy our Trooper. But, We never leave home without a well stocked tool box sitting in the back as one never knows what's going to happen next.

Our dilema right now is getting the front axle off to change the boot......supposedly they just "slide right off".....not so, we even made a custom axle puller and to no avail, it won't budge. (can't even see the circlip mentioned in the manual) We've spoken with the Joyner mechanics and their instructions don't work either. So we're going to give up on that and try the 12 buck split CV boot kit (Thanks for the tip Rocmoc!). That should solve that problem just fine! Unless ya'll might have a suggestion as to fixing this thing!