Mudslinger

This guy had some great ideas, but managed to rip me off when he sent me one of his complete kits including both manifolds. The only thing I would use these manifolds for are boat anchors, so don't be surprised his phone number doesn't work any more.

I have seen this problem many times, and it is usually dust and dirt built up in side the pressure plate. The bell housing is not sealed and allows dust in . Try removing the inspection plate and the crank sensor, then use compressed air to blow out the bell housing and clutch threw the crank sensor hole. If that doesn't work, you well probably have to remove the plate to clean it, and in my experience you are best off to replace it. The diaphragm spring usually starts to flex in the wrong spot and does not disengage the clutch disc.

I sent you a pm.

Hi Rick. Here's some pictures of the Manifold.

Karen

Kinarfi, they are called shims. My understanding is they are the same used on the Honda 4-stroke motorcycles. Read that somewhere a couple of years ago. Lenny had adjusted his so he is a good source plus the new guys!

rocmoc is correct, a lot of street bikes use the same shims. you would be looking for 25mm shims. The problem i found is that the thickness increments from the bike shops were to big. I had just enough of the right shims that I needed after going threw 3 different heads. If you can figure out what shims you are going to need, i may be able to help.

don't pull all your hair out doing all the math. : : :wacko and make lots of notes. YOU well get threw it

I sent you a pm.

Hi Rick. I tried to send you a PM, but the computer said you couldn't accept anymore messages. Shipping by mail would be approximately $30. If you are interested I will need more information.

Trevor

Hay guys

just did the same job on an 800cc eng. It had badly worn rings,the intake valves were all tight and the exaust were all loose. had to ajust them all. thank goodness i had spare parts. ended up with 150psi on all cyls, and it runs like new.

The cause of all of this was the very poor quality original air filter. Make sure you have a good filter. The amount of dirt inside this eng was crazy.

I think the regular retail was 160, how does 80$ sound?

Checked the shelf and found 3 cast manifolds.If anyone wants one,let me know.

Hi guys

I may have 1 or 2 of the original 1100cc manifolds (cast). I will check my stock tomorow and find a prise.

Hi Mudslinger,

I must be the dumbest Trooper owner around. Even with all the good advice I'm still stuck. I cannot find the _#&)@)&$65 adjustment nuts for the parking brake. I can't even find the cable that actuates the parking brake master cylinder. In my machine it seems to be buried between the firewall and cylinder which I can't get to without taking the cylinder bracket loose.

With all the manuals I've looked at I'm reminded of my first manual from Honda. Here's a quote that will tell you what I mean. "extreme care should be taken while rounding corners, or falling off may occur" Even that make more sense to me than what I'm finding.

You words of wisdom will be appreciated.

Gumball

No problem, I think you are looking in the wrong spot. The master cylinder for the park brake system is under the engine intake manifold and the cable comes off the back of the park brake handle. I have a unit in my shop with the center council removed and the before mentioned return spring installed, I well try to attach some pics for you.

Mudslinger

Hi Mudslinger,

Thank you for the information. I think you are spot on with the wear. My pads went away right away and the brakes seemed to be always on. I will do as you suggested and attach a spring to the actuating arm. How to you go about bleeding the lines? It appears that you use the time honored method if having someone apply the brakes while you open the line.

Thanks again,

Gumball

Gumball, The easiest way to bleed the system is to use a vacuum brake bleeder system, and draw the fluid out the caliper bleed valve. The way you mentioned will work, but can be very time consuming and very frustrating.

The only reason you should have to bleed the system is if you have a leak or the lines wear removed. If the piston is returning all the way it should allow the fluid to take up the ajustment.

The cable also has a thumb wheel ajuster as well, but check the linkage first GOOD LUCK

Mudslinger

Hello all,

What tricks, if any, do you use to adjust the Trooper parking brake. Mine never has worked and it's such an odd arrangement I thought one of you might have some easy way to do the deed.

Thanks in advance,

Gumball

Hi Gumball

In my experience the biggest issue with the park brake is the linkage. There is no return spring to pull the lever with the push- rod back out of the hydraulic cylinder. This prevents the piston from returning to the end of the cylinder and opening the port to allow more fluid to enter. Most of the time this causes the park brake to drag until the pads are worn. Also there is no boot on cylinder push rod, so check that there is no dirt holding the piston up. I have installed a return spring on the linkage near the cable end, and over to the master cylinder mount bracket. this seems to take care of the issue and should make ajusting easier.

Hope this helps

Mudsllinger (Trevor)

Hi guys, I am new to this site, but i have been a dealer for joyner for over 4 years. I have installed about 6 complete sets of KING shocks on different troopers, and every customer has told me that it was the best money they ever spent.I run a turboed 800 sand viper with the Kings in the back and can tell you its day and night. King has several diferent combinations for the trooper. I highly recomend them.