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  1. This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes. This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution. Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize. The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price. In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two. I will be breaking this down into 2 posts: Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details) The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine. The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles. From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.
  2. Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.
  3. At 185 hours while do a little riding noticed using a little more fuel that the trip should have taken and running a little rough. Thought it might be time to clean the air filter. I while back, I bought a filter kit for another sxs I had but never installed. I was going to do the snorkel thing. Anyway, while I was as cleaning the air filter for the Axis 500. I mocked up this filter kit and wanted to know if anyone could give a reason why this wouldn't work. I plan on removing the air box completely. Moving the PCV valve hose to the side of the large hose going to the throttle body instead of the way it is now. Now it connects to the air box. There is already a hole in that hose and it just has a 90° fitting on it and then a plug. Then route some pipe thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. Then up under the hood and mount the new filter there. I even bought a hood scoop to use. See pics below. Here is the way it is from the factory. Notice the hose plugged into the top of the air box. That is for the PCV valve. It provides suction for the crankcase to keep from blowing seals. You can't see in the pic, but there is a hose that connects to the crank case. That hose connects to a box with 2 hoses coming off. One of those hoses goes down to under the sxs to let any oil that is sucked up drip on the ground. The other hose connects to the air box. Here is the passenger side of the air box. Notice the 90° nipple on the large hose running between the air box and the throttle body. Here is a pic of the kit I got off Amazon. Here are some pics with the air box removed, PCV hose relocated, and the hose coming up into the hood area thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. I will probably have to relocate the radiator overflow jug. I know I will probably have to use solid pipe instead of that plastic flex stuff. And will have to keep it clear of the drive shaft. The only issue I see it the air coming in thru the PVC hose is not filtered. It also could cause more suction on the crankcase and cause the sxs to use some oil. Those little square boxes on top to the throttle hose are empty. I may have to connect the PCV hose to that and add a filter in that square box. But other than that. Does anyone know of any reason this shouldn't work? Once I get it installed I can close off the holes in the engine cover that is currently uses by the air box. That will help keep noise and heat out of the cab in the summer.
  4. Got the official letter last week . Chapter 11 has been filed . Not sure where that puts Coleman as of now . They said they are business as usual. we will see . I am a warranty repair center . Have several claims filed yet and waiting on parts for many units .
  5. Hi from oklahoma Does anyone else own a coleman unit. ?
  6. I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar. Tools: First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment. Technique: Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear. Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty. If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease. Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess. Greasepoints: Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
  7. View File Outfitter-UT400-ShiftCable Adjustment I got this from Coleman, detailed instruction re: shift cable adjustment... I forgot to mention you will need two 22 mm wrenches for the cable lock nuts. I hacked up a couple of cheap "quality tools for less" combination wrenches using a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder: Kind of like "flare nut wrenches", good for light duty like this. Submitter cliffyk Submitted 03/19/2021 Category Coleman
  8. I've been looking for a cross to a filter from a known manufacturer since I bought this machine. Both from a cost standpoint, and a known quality standpoint. The factory filters are just plain black with no markings. Due to price point on these machines I would assume that the factory filter would be made as.cheap as possible I have not had any real luck finding a cross, so In doing my first oil change I decided to cut the factory filter and see what is inside. I don't have a fancy oil filter cutting set up, so I just clamped it in the vise and went to town with my portaband. Excuse the rough cuts and metal shavings. Looks like a good quality filter, plenty of pleats/surface area. Metal endcaps. Excuse the crushing, that's from the vise/strap wrench to remove it. Relief valve And a spring in the bottom of the can to keep the top silicone anti-drainback pressed in place. Overall looks like a surprisingly good quality filter for a no name. At least we can know that using the factory filters on these should be acceptable. I feel better about paying $10 for this filter at least knowing it's good quality.
  9. Grandsons 125 atv starters. Is there a good replacement out there ? Also any aftermarket carb for adjusments.
  10. I have a Coleman (Hisun 700 engine) vintage 2014 model. It is my beater for around my acreage so it gets very little use. Have a much nicer ride for going on road and trail runs. Anyway, this year I notice at startup with a cold engine the high temp warning light comes on right away and does not go off. Engine does not seem to overheat but the radiator fan never seems to come on-but may not be running it long and hard enough for that to happen. Any ideas why the engine high temp warning light would come on and stay lit with the engine cold?
  11. Howdy all, I searched the forum (and the internet in general) for this and didn't find anything that looked like an answer. I purchased a Coleman 550 from Tractor Supply last October. Runs well. Really only one issue that I have had and that is a dragging brake pad. Still haven't fixed it, but hope to soon. For now, it is time for the first oil change (38 hours). After some reading, I decided to use Mobil 1 4T 10w-40. I also purchased a filter from motorcyledoctor.com. Got the filter and noticed that there is a hex head on the end. I thought "Hey that's nifty, but I wonder why they did that?". Then I went to change the oil and I know why now. Which brings me to my question. How in the hell is one supposed to get that oil filter off? First off, it is not obvious how to take the seat base out to get leverage. I thought about cutting out the plastic above where the filter is. But decided against it for now. I tried my best to work within the tiny space given to get the filter out. I have a number of different filter wrenches. Only one is able to fit over the filter. But ... I could not get the filter to break loose. So, I ordered a strap wrench from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZH57V5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 In case that doesn't work, I also ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVNH2QV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My intention with the latter is that if the strap wrench does not work, I will punch a hole or two into the side of the second product. Put it over the end of the filter, put two screws into it and hope I can break it loose. Anyone else experience this incredibly difficult task? I have always worked on my own vehicles and have had some difficult circumstances, but I always prevailed. Not this time. The Coleman 550 b*tch slapped me this weekend and is pointing and laughing at me. Any suggestions or recommendations would be great. If nothing else, just some content on the subject so that someone else who might be having the same issue can find this and get some ideas. Thanks, CC
  12. Well after a good buddy of mine shared how happy he was with a Massimo 500 I decided to pull the trigger on one of my own. Probably the main use will be dirt roads and trails near Baldwin Mi where I have a camp. But my town does allow them to be plated and driven on the road. Hope my experience is as good as my buddy's is. Behind it there is a 400 King quad that you cant see and a 86 CJ7 project and my 69 Baja bug.
  13. Curious if anyone has successfully added a light bar to a Coleman / Hisun 550cc UTV. I got mine at Tractor supply last November, but I understand they are the same machine as a Hisun. I've been scouring the interwebs for information regarding the wiring harness to no avail. Wondering if anyone on this forum as had success and could offer some tips. Thanks y'all
  14. For whats its worth, I emailed Coleman about getting my MSO and the guy there was able to send me a current manual for my buggy, the one it cane with and the one on Tractor supplies website seems to be for an older model. Nothing seems to have changed except for the column mounted controls.
  15. 213 downloads

    I got this from Coleman, detailed instruction re: shift cable adjustment...
  16. Hi all! My name is Rob and I'm new the the UTV world. I'm Glad to be here and learn from the experts here on the forum. I have a frustrating question to ask the experienced members on here regarding the gear oil for my Coleman 400. The manual recommends for the final drive SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil and for the Diff SAE 80 API GL-5 Hypoid gear oil. I can't find this stuff anywhere( I'm in Calgary by the way) ..especially the GL-4 stuff. If I find something close , it's not Hypoid , or only GL-5 What is everyone using , whats safe? is the dual rated stuff good to use in both places, most of the dual rated stuff I find saids not recommended for a wet clutch. Obviously I have a lot to learn about this , so I'm here to learn and ask for some advice. Appreciate any input, help and guidance.....thanks -Rob
  17. 72 downloads

    As the the filename indicates, service manual for the2017/2018 Hisun HS400 and Coleman Outfitter 400/UT400...
  18. View File 2017/2018 Hisun HS400 Service Manual As the the filename indicates, service manual for the2017/2018 Hisun HS400 and Coleman Outfitter 400/UT400... Submitter cliffyk Submitted 03/03/2021 Category Hisun  
  19. View File Coleman Outfitter 800-3 Owner's Manual Coleman Outfitter 800-3 Owner's Manual Submitter Alex Submitted 03/02/2021 Category Coleman  
  20. 4 downloads

    Coleman Outfitter 800-3 Owner's Manual
  21. View File Coleman Outfitter 550/750 Owner's Manual Coleman Outfitter 550/750 Owner's Manual Submitter Alex Submitted 03/02/2021 Category Coleman  
  22. 10 downloads

    Coleman Outfitter 550/750 Owner's Manual
  23. I have a 2012 Coleman (hisun) hs700. The cooling fan quit working. I replaced the water temp sensor/ radiator fan switch located towards the bottom of the radiator. That did not cure the problem. I also put 12v directly to the fan to make sure the fan was still good. I then took the harness off the new temp sensor and shorted it to turn on the fan and nothing. Is there something else in line I should look at? I also found the sensor at the motor and jumpered through it. Still did not work. Any suggestions? Thanks
  24. Hi everyone, this is my first forum. I purchased 2 Coleman 250 UTV for around the house. It's perfect for running back and forth to the barn. I have 3hrs on both machines and the units are sputtering. I used 94 Octane gas. I'm hoping someone might have an idea.
  25. I'm out of town and away from our 2017 Coleman/Hisun UTV 500 Side x Side, my Son needs to replace a broken cotter pin on the front left axle and tighten everything back up. We were able to find the cotter pin size 2.5mm x 30mm or equivalent 1/8" x 2" and I picked up a few. I just can not find the size socket it will need and the torque setting for the axle nut. Thanks for your time! Greg
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