Quantcast
Jump to content

Power loss


ricksrb

Recommended Posts

Guest Lenny

Do you have the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual? Mine is 27,248 Kb, so I can't email it, so I zipped it to 23,831 Kb and I think I can email that, do you want it? PM me with email address if you want it. (ANY ONE)

Kinarfi

On that owners manual, I talked to Joyner and they plan on selling a lot of Troopers soon. They wanted me to ask if you could send them 5000 copies. They prefer you print them out and send it that way. I said that your a real nice guy and it shouldn't be any problem.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Do you have the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual? Mine is 27,248 Kb, so I can't email it, so I zipped it to 23,831 Kb and I think I can email that, do you want it? PM me with email address if you want it. (ANY ONE)

Kinarfi

i do have one but i dont think its for my 09 t2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

i have a new problem. my alt will not charge unless i induce 12volts to the white wire briefely . with the engine running before i induce power she reads 2.78 volts

after i induce voltage she jumps to 14 volts .

i changed out the alt. thinking the voltage reg was cooked . that didn't solve the problem

any ideas on what the problem might be .

also my spedo doesn't work, when she does the diagnostic it stokes but does not read speed at all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe a sensor somewhere. The problem in today engines/cars there is so many things that are inter-related. For instant, on the Dodge Pickup, the sensor for speed located at the rear diff also controls the ABS brakes system. Have you tried a direct call for help to one of the dealers? I do wish you good luck. If anyone gets answers to problems, PLEASE post so we can share the solution.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

krusstygun, sorry if I mislead you. I was saying a sensor, not necessarily the speed sensor of the Dodge example. Knowing which sensor is a little beyond my expertise. You can try the trial and error method of unplugging a single sensor and seeing what the results are. If no change in the performance of the Trooper, this maybe the problem sensor. This is how we use to check spark plugs, pulling the wire one at a time until you found the bad plug. Try the same thing with the sensors,, one at a time pull the wire and see if there is any decrease in performance. If there is decrease in performance, the sensor is working. If the engine has no change, the sensor maybe bad or not working. Just an idea!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

i have a new problem. my alt will not charge unless i induce 12volts to the white wire briefely . with the engine running before i induce power she reads 2.78 volts

after i induce voltage she jumps to 14 volts .

i changed out the alt. thinking the voltage reg was cooked . that didn't solve the problem

any ideas on what the problem might be .

also my spedo doesn't work, when she does the diagnostic it stokes but does not read speed at all

You could have a bad computer. My speedo didn't work a while back and when I put in another computer out of a Trooper at my dealer, it worked. I beleive mine was the result of not pulling the computer when welding on the Trooper. The speedo I beleive gets it's signal from the speed sensor and not the computer but they both share the output. The speed sensor is on the transmission housing just ahead of the starter. Look in the manual and it will show how to check it. It has a red wire going to it which I think sends it a voltage and the black wire is the ground. The last wire from the speed sensor goes to the computer , pin #39. This wire also probably goes to the speedometer. I believe that the alternator white wire gets it's12v signal when the key is turned on. Here's the layout. A +12 volts comes from the battery to the ignition switch. From there a red wire with a green tracer goes to the battery charge light on the dash. You can pull that entire pannel of switches by using a screw driver to pry it out of the dash. From the battery charge light a brown wire with a white tracer goes to a plug out of which a white wire goes to the alternator. Can't remember where the plug is, probably near the light. Once the alternator is engerized, the alternator probably then keeps itself energized. It also probably sends a signal back to the red battery charging light turning it off. I'm not real sure about what is turning the light off. You could possibly run a wire from the starter circuit to the white wire so that when you started it, the alternator would get it's 12v shot. This could be a potential fix if you can't find the problem. If you do this go to radio shack and get a diode, It allows current to flow only one way so that when it running the white wire isn't feeding current back to the starter. Kinarfi could probably tell you what size diode you would need. I'm just sort of thinking out loud here. Hopefully you will get some ideas from it.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a friend was having a powerloss problem with the same symptoms. we changed out the fuel filter dumped injector cleaner into her .

and changed out the bad fuel. found that the fuelpump was being starved. something had jelled up in the filter

i just found out my fuel pump was bad it had a glitch in it where it would only pump half the volume sometimes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...

UPDATE after almost two years of picking this thing apart i found out what was causing my intermitant power loss or limp home mode the factory had my O2 Sensors hooked up backwards so finally it runs as it should thanks for all the help

glad you hung in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Just finished a trip down to see my wifes family in Tucson, AZ. On the way down I spent some time with Casey at JMC. He told me that the carbon canister can get filled up with gas and cause the enghine to run poorly. Myself, I would just omit it but you then have to put a vent line on the gas tank. It can connect to the same port that the carbon canister hooked to.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

UPDATE after almost two years of picking this thing apart i found out what was causing my intermitant power loss or limp home mode the factory had my O2 Sensors hooked up backwards so finally it runs as it should thanks for all the help

mine is doing this very same thing, seems like it only does it a few minutes after startup. say between about 160 F and 175 F on the temp gauge. I step on the clutch and rev it up and it gets better. as soon as it gets up to operating temp it runs perfect. when you say the o2 sensors were hooked up backwards, do you mean just swap the plugs between the sensors ? or were the wires in the wrong spots in the connector ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mine is doing this very same thing, seems like it only does it a few minutes after startup. say between about 160 F and 175 F on the temp gauge. I step on the clutch and rev it up and it gets better. as soon as it gets up to operating temp it runs perfect. when you say the o2 sensors were hooked up backwards, do you mean just swap the plugs between the sensors ? or were the wires in the wrong spots in the connector ?

Maybe im wrong but If you swap the plugs on the sensors would it not be doing the same as swaping the wires on the connectors?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

After not riding for awhile kept having problems with it barely running checked fuel pressure and seen it was only about 20 psi changed filter and pump still the same ended up disconnecting power and ground from pump running my own ground and power from battery and dash mounted switch haven't had a problem since and since I'm running a turbo had to disconnect post o2 sensor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By goindeep
      Well now i could use a lil help... i have a trooper in my shop now that has wiring issues... this poor guy paid another shop $1000 to re wire the body control harness, and boy oh boy did they chop it up!!! I am Buillding a new harness from scratch... what i need is a diagram that tells me what each fuse and relay control on the Engine fuse/relay block.. any help is greatly appreciated!!
      Josh
      No Limitz
    • By nods
      Less than 40 miles can barely start. Dealer is working with Hisun on a number of other issues on this UTV. Can not get clear info on the meaning of these E codes this is getting. Anybody have some clear info for me?
    • By catalyst
      We own a 2020 Kubota RTV-XG-850, with only 400 hours on it and it has been at the dealer 3+ months. We were just informed our engine failed and requires a complete rebuild at only 400 hours! There is a loss of compression in cylinder #1, which is causing backfiring and a loss of power. There is also excess gas in the engine oil. 
      We are just outside of the manufacture's warranty period, and they are serving us a nearly $5000 repair bill, with only a 90 day warranty.

      A member at a different forum had the same issue at 22 hours and fortunately, his RTV is under warranty. He was informed that "short tripping" (as Kubota describes it) causes gasoline to enter into the engine oil, which causes a dilution of engine oil and eventually leads to catastrophic engine failure. This killed our engine in under 400 hours!

      Is anyone else with a 2018-2022 XG-850 running into similar issues?
       
       
    • By lowgear52
      Does anyone out there have a rear differential for a trooper for sale?
    • By mcraigchr
      I realize that many of you do not have diesel machines.  For those that do, this is for you:
      Just wanted to post my experience this past week.  Here in Texas, we had pretty good dip in temps.  For 4 days it did not get above 25.  At night, it was single digits or close to it.  I always put Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in the storage tank (30 gallon).  And up until this tank I was using Power Service (white bottle) for anti-gel.  Never had an issue.
      This tank, however, I switched to Stabil All season (anti gel).  It is supposed to good down to -40.  Zap.  That is a big fat lie.  I put in twice the amount called for in the instructions.  Result was less than optimal.  I drove the SxS 100 feet (to go get the mail) and it died.  I looked at the fuel bowl and it was a cloudy, wax substance.  So, the Stabil did not work.  That said, I'm not sure that I ever tested the Power Service in the same manner.  So I am not saying that one is better than the other.
      What are your experiences?  Are these products inferior?  What do you folks in the northern states / Canada use?  Am I missing something?
      CC



×
×
  • Create New...