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HELP, reringing my engine, and finding problems


Kinarfi

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I would go on the lose side myself, as things wear in they will get tighter on the clearance, therefor if you have a tighter spec to start with as valves wear and such it will get even tighter and throw you out of spec. In a perfect world the valves, seats, cam, shims will wear evenly and not cause an issue. But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world

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I would go on the lose side myself, as things wear in they will get tighter on the clearance, therefor if you have a tighter spec to start with as valves wear and such it will get even tighter and throw you out of spec. In a perfect world the valves, seats, cam, shims will wear evenly and not cause an issue. But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world

When I put it back together, everything was tight, so I think I will go with loose.

"But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world", you got that right, for sure!!!!

Know of any dealers or any one else that has shims? Found this so far, http://stores.ebay.com/HIT-THE-GAS/_i.html?_nkw=shim&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=120606839

Still looking.

Thanks,

Jeff

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I would go on the lose side myself, as things wear in they will get tighter on the clearance, therefor if you have a tighter spec to start with as valves wear and such it will get even tighter and throw you out of spec. In a perfect world the valves, seats, cam, shims will wear evenly and not cause an issue. But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world

Jarrad would know better than me. Jarrad you are assuming Kinarfi is going to get some miles out of the engine before he needs another rebuild, LOL!

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Guest Lenny

I fully agree with Jarrad. Stay to the loose side. The most wear will more then likely be the valve seat slowly over time seating farther into the head to close up clearance.

Lenny

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Jeff are you done.If you need help call me.

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Ric 928 344 2117

Just about, after I got the head revalved, intake only, they couldn't adjust the valves because the couldn't get the shims or grind enough off the valve stems to get the clearances I need, so I took the head and measured gap using a 2.30mm shim and then calculated what size shims I needed and sent the shims and the specs to Lenny and he ground the shims and has put them in the mail to me. Plan to post a bunch of photos of the changes I have made while doing this. Moved wires, rewired and redid some of the hoses, had already changed the fenders and put a wall between the wheels and motor to keep thing a little cleaner, added a heat shield to the header to protect the shocks and the limit strap from the heat, moved the oil pressures sender via hose to the other side of the engine, put a more secure mount for the interposing relay for the starter and used a FET instead of mechanical relay, turned the radiator fan upside down to get the connector up out of the dirt, rewired the tail lights, redid my steering circuitry and strain gauge sand other stuff I can't remember at this moment.

Things are going well, hoping for good weather around Hanksville so Lenny and I can get it checked out. Googling it has it looking like some good area, on both sides of the road.

Jeff

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got all the valve shims in, had to grind 2 of them on my neighbor's stationary belt sander, hope it's close enough to work good. One of the things I did was before I put the timing belt on, I ran the starter until the oil pressure came up, the I put the belt on and got it all buttoned up, minus radiator and hit the key and instant start. WOOOOO whoo!!!! No Smoke, just smooth running, and I hadn't even hooked up the throttle cable. Shut it down and finished put every thing back on and it started first hit every time. Photo shoot tomorrow of how I wired it and how fixed the swing arm.

Now to load it on the trailer and go find Lenny south of Hanksville.

Jeff

PS. I plan to open the top up and retorque the head bolts and see if my valve clearances changed after I get back, and to have my feet operated on too.

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