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ricksrb

My Spare Diff

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A year ago in March I came across an add for some Joyner parts that were being sold in the Pheonix area.I was going to be down that way for our annual trip to see some Major League pre season baseball so i called and learned the person selling the parts was a former joyner employee we all know who was then out of work because of joyner closing their doors.Once down there i contacted him again and went by his house and purchased some items from him and one of the items i was told to be an upgraded diff.Once i got back home to So Cal i packed the diff away in a box and placed it in a cabinet in my garage along with the other items.After recent discussions about diffs i decided this past Sunday to bring it out and take a look.After pulling the oil fill plug and looking inside all i could see was the corner of head of the bolts, not enough to tell what they were so i split the case to see inside and was very surprised.Rust corrosion on the bearing,and gears.while spinning the bearing i can feel a flat spot on them.I also found some chunks out of the inside of the case as well as shavings.The gears appear to be new with no visable wear(just corrosion)on them.The bolts are 8.8 and do have the locking tabs.From what it looks like they had a bad diff that was returned and went in and replaced the gears,bolts and used the locking tabs then slaped it back together without even cleaning the aluminum shavings from the damage that had been done.The one sealed bearing was not even completly seated and the shims are corroded as well.See the photos below.

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Your story sux, have you ever used naval jelly on rust, You should definitely get rid of the 8.8 bolts IMO, The thin big bearing 2529085090104282158SitXUL_th.jpg should have it's seals pulled of so it gets oil, IMO, and if you haven't, check inside the spider and when you put it back together, lock tite the screw holding the pin in place.2234079920104282158sPBTef_th.jpg

Any time you have to open a diff, I have found that the easiest way to split it is to blow air into the vent pipe.

jeff

P.S.: If every thing else is up to snuff, here's the bolts I used to up grade my diff s and they are what Lenny uses, but Lenny machines his down and I put each one in my drill and spin the head against my grinder to make them fit, the heads are too tall and I like having the unthreaded shank going between the ring and the spider, so I ordered longer bolts and cut some of the threads off.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#96144a227/=bufcy2

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Your story sux, have you ever used naval jelly on rust, You should definitely get rid of the 8.8 bolts IMO, The thin big bearing 2529085090104282158SitXUL_th.jpg should have it's seals pulled of so it gets oil, IMO, and if you haven't, check inside the spider and when you put it back together, lock tite the screw holding the pin in place.2234079920104282158sPBTef_th.jpg

Any time you have to open a diff, I have found that the easiest way to split it is to blow air into the vent pipe.

jeff

havent opened up to look at spiders,I did notice small screw was not even screwed in to apply pressure on pin.After taking screw out should pin come out easily? I took screw out and attempted to pull the pin,it moved about 1/2" and stoped like something else holding it so didnt go further.I plan on getting new bearings and hopefully a kit from Lenny but have to wait till my allowance will let me.Just glad i am finding this out now and not when i might have needed the diff.

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havent opened up to look at spiders,I did notice small screw was not even screwed in to apply pressure on pin.After taking screw out should pin come out easily? I took screw out and attempted to pull the pin,it moved about 1/2" and stoped like something else holding it so didnt go further.I plan on getting new bearings and hopefully a kit from Lenny but have to wait till my allowance will let me.Just glad i am finding this out now and not when i might have needed the diff.

After you open up one of my picts, scroll through all the photos, you will find the pin is notched and has to be tilted or the other pin has to be rolled to create the clearance, if I remember correctly. Just looked at my pics and I think the pin with screw moves out just a little, tips, and the other comes out first, remember the old Chinese puzzle blocks.

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After you open up one of my picts, scroll through all the photos, you will find the pin is notched and has to be tilted or the other pin has to be rolled to create the clearance, if I remember correctly. Just looked at my pics and I think the pin with screw moves out just a little, tips, and the other comes out first, remember the old Chinese puzzle blocks.

HELP!!!! I must be missing something here.I tried what you suggested and nothing.The other pin hardly budges and it too seems like its hanging up on something.Didnt have much time and only spent a few minutes on it but will try again later.

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HELP!!!! I must be missing something here.I tried what you suggested and nothing.The other pin hardly budges and it too seems like its hanging up on something.Didnt have much time and only spent a few minutes on it but will try again later.

Rick, send me your e-mail address in a PM and I'll sent you a copy of the instructions that come with my diff upgrade kit. It covers getting the diff spider gears out.

Lenny

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Rick, send me your e-mail address in a PM and I'll sent you a copy of the instructions that come with my diff upgrade kit. It covers getting the diff spider gears out.

Lenny

Well I got the spider gears out(thanks to Lenny&kinarfi)and found more aluminum shavings and a couple chunks of aluminum wedged in the spider gears(see photo).Gears themselves show now sign of damage.It really looks like someone went in,replaced all the gears,installed what they call the upgraded bolts and slaped it back together without cleaning out all the inside of the case from the damage that had occurred.Remember this is what i was told was a rebuilt and upgraded diff when i bought it and has not been installed.

gallery_475_29_6335.jpg

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Rick, send me your e-mail address in a PM and I'll sent you a copy of the instructions that come with my diff upgrade kit. It covers getting the diff spider gears out.

Lenny

Lenny, I am new to this forum as well as owning a Joyner. I have an 09 T2 which I bought will 219 miles from a guy in Vail AZ last July. I have about 1700 miles on it with some minor problems. Went out today and rode about five miles in easy country when I heard some noise from the rear diff as well as smelling diff fluid. Stopped to check and found diff fluid leaking out of the right side axel seal. I was able to get it home and jacked up the rear. Both wheels will spin both directions with out any problem, I havent pulled it down yet, I was told you are familiar whith the issues concerning the diffs and you make an upgrade for them. I haven't checked to see if my diff was upgraded. Would you have an idea what may have happened to mine.

I have owned two Rhino's and a Prowler. The Trooper can go places the other utvs can't but I have had a few issues with the Trooper. I really like the Trooper but I need help.

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Lenny, I am new to this forum as well as owning a Joyner. I have an 09 T2 which I bought will 219 miles from a guy in Vail AZ last July. I have about 1700 miles on it with some minor problems. Went out today and rode about five miles in easy country when I heard some noise from the rear diff as well as smelling diff fluid. Stopped to check and found diff fluid leaking out of the right side axel seal. I was able to get it home and jacked up the rear. Both wheels will spin both directions with out any problem, I havent pulled it down yet, I was told you are familiar whith the issues concerning the diffs and you make an upgrade for them. I haven't checked to see if my diff was upgraded. Would you have an idea what may have happened to mine.

I have owned two Rhino's and a Prowler. The Trooper can go places the other utvs can't but I have had a few issues with the Trooper. I really like the Trooper but I need help.

Are the wheels spinning freely when your in gear? When you spin one does the other go the other way? When you lock the diff, do both wheels lock together? When the diff is locked and your in gear, you shouldn't be able to turn the wheels except for a bit of play. I do make an upgrade that is available on Ebay. However, I only have 6 kits left and haven't decided rather to make up more or not.

Lenny

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Are the wheels spinning freely when your in gear? When you spin one does the other go the other way? When you lock the diff, do both wheels lock together? When the diff is locked and your in gear, you shouldn't be able to turn the wheels except for a bit of play. I do make an upgrade that is available on Ebay. However, I only have 6 kits left and haven't decided rather to make up more or not.

Lenny

When I spin one wheel the other goes the other direction. When in gear the wheels wont spin except a little play.. Both wheels lock together with the diff lock engaged. I was able to drive it out with out any problems, I used 4 wheel drive to take of as much stress as possible. The only reason I drove it was I couldn't get my truck and trailer in to it.

Have you worked on any diffs after their has been a problem, do you think the diff could be repared and be dependable or should I plan on replaceing it if I can get one. Other then the diff what other problems should I be looking for. I had a Turbo installed when I bought the machine, I also put in a intake snorkel and the steering box plate. I still have a loud rattle in the front end at low speeds. I found the tie rods ends have a lot of play so I will be replacing them.

I was planning on going to Hanksville in June if my machine is ready, any advice you can give would be great. Robert.

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Hi, if you look on 1st page under past problem areas, it covers about everything..., I had to replace front differential, it had broken off pieces of case inside.

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Hi, if you look on 1st page under past problem areas, it covers about everything..., I had to replace front differential, it had broken off pieces of case inside.

And I bought your old diff from the dealer for parts.

rocmoc n AZ/CA

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When I spin one wheel the other goes the other direction. When in gear the wheels wont spin except a little play.. Both wheels lock together with the diff lock engaged. I was able to drive it out with out any problems, I used 4 wheel drive to take of as much stress as possible. The only reason I drove it was I couldn't get my truck and trailer in to it.

Have you worked on any diffs after their has been a problem, do you think the diff could be repared and be dependable or should I plan on replaceing it if I can get one. Other then the diff what other problems should I be looking for. I had a Turbo installed when I bought the machine, I also put in a intake snorkel and the steering box plate. I still have a loud rattle in the front end at low speeds. I found the tie rods ends have a lot of play so I will be replacing them.

I was planning on going to Hanksville in June if my machine is ready, any advice you can give would be great. Robert.

You will need to take the diff apart and see what it looks like inside. Then let us know and we can maybe guide you.

Lenny

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You will need to take the diff apart and see what it looks like inside. Then let us know and we can maybe guide you.

Lenny

I will have it apart tomorrow, I am curious if most diffs are serviceable after problems such as this or they need to be replaced. Thanks for you input, I will let you know what I find. Robert.

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Lenny, I am new to this forum as well as owning a Joyner. I have an 09 T2 which I bought will 219 miles from a guy in Vail AZ last July. I have about 1700 miles on it with some minor problems. Went out today and rode about five miles in easy country when I heard some noise from the rear diff as well as smelling diff fluid. Stopped to check and found diff fluid leaking out of the right side axel seal. I was able to get it home and jacked up the rear. Both wheels will spin both directions with out any problem, I havent pulled it down yet, I was told you are familiar whith the issues concerning the diffs and you make an upgrade for them. I haven't checked to see if my diff was upgraded. Would you have an idea what may have happened to mine.

I have owned two Rhino's and a Prowler. The Trooper can go places the other utvs can't but I have had a few issues with the Trooper. I really like the Trooper but I need help.

Curious here,what kind of noise did it make? did it continue the whole drive back?

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kinarfi,

I was looking at your photos and noticed one of the sealed bearing with part #6912Z and $268.22,is that what you paid for it?

no!! I'm not that rich, I pulled the seals off and washed it and what ever was messing up washed out and I reused it, with no ill effects that I know of, I recommend pulling the seals any way so the oil can circulate in it anyway.

That was the price that I found on line.

Kinarfi

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no!! I'm not that rich, I pulled the seals off and washed it and what ever was messing up washed out and I reused it, with no ill effects that I know of, I recommend pulling the seals any way so the oil can circulate in it anyway.

That was the price that I found on line.

Kinarfi

glad to hear that.I have been checking around and thats about a $60 bearing.

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glad to hear that.I have been checking around and thats about a $60 bearing.

pull the shields, clean it, spin it, if it feels smooth and sound good, use it, IMHO :)

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glad to hear that.I have been checking around and thats about a $60 bearing.

pull the shields, clean it, spin it, if it feels smooth and sound good, use it, IMHO :)

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I will have it apart tomorrow, I am curious if most diffs are serviceable after problems such as this or they need to be replaced. Thanks for you input, I will let you know what I find. Robert.

Any word on what you found?

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pull the shields, clean it, spin it, if it feels smooth and sound good, use it, IMHO :)

Guys I'm a manufacture in the hobby industry and have a good friend and very good bearing supplier in the US. The company is called, Boca Bearings in Florida. Give Mike a call and ask him to source the bearings we need, he is able to provide great prices and also get hard to find bearings. The owner is Alan and he has been in the bearing business for over 40 years now. I'm going to give him a call too, haven't spoke in a while. Tell Mike or Alan that Tony from Warehouse Hobbies sent you.

I purchased a Trooper for my wife and it seams to be turning into another hobby, and I don't need another hobby... I too am starting to have problems with the diff(s), and the 4 WD actuator has crapped-out again, now the third one. I guess I am going to have to design a manual one?

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