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charlie

joyner T2

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Hey guys I have a trooper T2 anybody know if a bench seat will fit in it. my wife and kid are always battling for the passenger seat and a 4 seater is to big for my trails.

I also found that small off road shocks if you cut them down a bit you can use them as steering rack boots, I do recomend removing the rack to put them on its so much easier.

What are you guys doing for performance upgrades I am totally thrilled with my set up, but didnt know what every one else was doing I have NGK plugs in mine silver bullet programmer, snorkle, synthetic oil and royal purple in the tranny.

Sometimes ill be out riding around it it doesnt want to go into 1st or reverce very easy I have tried adjusting the cables a little helped clutch is good no slipping.

Rocmoc I see you commented about my tire question, but how is the performance with the larger tires, I live in MA and I ride on hardpack, mud, hills fireroads.

Thanx for any insight guys

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Hey guys I have a trooper T2 anybody know if a bench seat will fit in it. my wife and kid are always battling for the passenger seat and a 4 seater is to big for my trails.

I also found that small off road shocks if you cut them down a bit you can use them as steering rack boots, I do recomend removing the rack to put them on its so much easier.

What are you guys doing for performance upgrades I am totally thrilled with my set up, but didnt know what every one else was doing I have NGK plugs in mine silver bullet programmer, snorkle, synthetic oil and royal purple in the tranny.

Sometimes ill be out riding around it it doesnt want to go into 1st or reverce very easy I have tried adjusting the cables a little helped clutch is good no slipping.

Rocmoc I see you commented about my tire question, but how is the performance with the larger tires, I live in MA and I ride on hardpack, mud, hills fireroads.

Thanx for any insight guys

Charlie,

Welcome,you found a great place to get info.Not sure you can put a bench seat in in place of your two buckets if that is what you were refering to.I know there has been some who have modified the rear cage area and placed a bench seat back there.If you scroll down on the main forums page you will come across the joyner forum and find loads of info for the trooper there.Below is a link to some topics regarding the rear bench seat.

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1549-5-seater-t2/page__p__5972__hl__%2Brear+%2Bbench+%2Bseat__fromsearch__1#entry5972

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1686-trooper-rear-seat/page__p__6713__hl__%2Brear+%2Bbench+%2Bseat__fromsearch__1#entry6713

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charlie,

IMHO, 31 inch is the way to go. The engine power band is much more usable & the trans/diff gearing is more friendly. The only neg is you loose a little in first for really slow rock crawling. Next IMHO is the 30 inchers. The stock size tires just plane suck!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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I just finished a rear cage mod for my kids a month ago. 2scoops also has had this done. I will try to post some pics so you can see. I used a corbeau 40 inch seat with the three point belts from a rzr. The cage was custom built and I can fit average size adults back there too. The whole thing cost me 1200 bucks.

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charlie,

IMHO, 31 inch is the way to go. The engine power band is much more usable & the trans/diff gearing is more friendly. The only neg is you loose a little in first for really slow rock crawling. Next IMHO is the 30 inchers. The stock size tires just plane suck!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

rocmoc,

Do you know where to get the bearings for the front wheels. I purchased a set that are similar but a dual Timken type. When I install them there is still some play? Looks like I have to use shim washers, but no sure. Searched bearing companies but it is a Bastard size. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Tony

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Good morning Tony,

Two supplies, No Limits Powersports http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ and Silver Bullet http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/

Both are good, the difference is price & product. Silver Bullets' product & price is a little higher using roller bearings. No limits' is less expensive with the stock ball bearings. It is personal choice, I used No Limits. Did the stock / orignal bearings require a puller to remove? If they did you hubs are probably OK. If they are not tight on install the hubs are showing wear. The hubs wear more than the bearings IMHO. Lenny did a taper bearing replacement but he has the equipment and knowledge for the mod. It sounds like you do also and may want to contact him directly to get the info and what he did. His mod is much much better !!!!!!!!

rocmoc n AZ

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Good morning Tony,

Two supplies, No Limits Powersports http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ and Silver Bullet http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/

Both are good, the difference is price & product. Silver Bullets' product & price is a little higher using roller bearings. No limits' is less expensive with the stock ball bearings. It is personal choice, I used No Limits. Did the stock / orignal bearings require a puller to remove? If they did you hubs are probably OK. If they are not tight on install the hubs are showing wear. The hubs wear more than the bearings IMHO. Lenny did a taper bearing replacement but he has the equipment and knowledge for the mod. It sounds like you do also and may want to contact him directly to get the info and what he did. His mod is much much better !!!!!!!!

rocmoc n AZ

I purchased the roller bearings and can't seam to get them to compress to get all the slop out. There are no shims and I'm not sure if there were that would be the answer since the axle nut should be a compression type for that kind of application. Mine go in but not as tight as I would like. The simple fix to that is a coating of RED or GREEN Locktight. That will hold bearings in very tight providing that we are only talking a few tenths, as in my case.

If you know something i don't about how to tighten the rollers I would love to hear.

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I purchased the roller bearings and can't seam to get them to compress to get all the slop out. There are no shims and I'm not sure if there were that would be the answer since the axle nut should be a compression type for that kind of application. Mine go in but not as tight as I would like. The simple fix to that is a coating of RED or GREEN Locktight. That will hold bearings in very tight providing that we are only talking a few tenths, as in my case.

If you know something i don't about how to tighten the rollers I would love to hear.

Sorry, I don't believe Locktight is the answer. If you have the correct bearings and they are still loose, then the hub is worn. I too have one that way. The hubs are not made of high enough quality material in my opinion. You will either have to replace the hub or do Lenny's mod. Lenny's mod IS the correct long-term fix. I will be going that route someday myself.

rocmoc n AZ

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Lenny, Given you have a good hub. Couldn't you heat treat a hub (heat it with a touch) and cool quickly to harden the material. Would this improve the life of the hub ?

rocmoc n AZ

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Sorry, I don't believe Locktight is the answer. If you have the correct bearings and they are still loose, then the hub is worn. I too have one that way. The hubs are not made of high enough quality material in my opinion. You will either have to replace the hub or do Lenny's mod. Lenny's mod IS the correct long-term fix. I will be going that route someday myself.

rocmoc n AZ

I guess it depends on how worn (how much the bearing spun and damaged the hub). In my case I still had to use a rubber mallet to tap them in, but it should of been about 2-tenths fit to be best.

I have had lots of good luck seating bearings for applications such as this in the past using the green thread lock to assure that the bearing doesn't spin. Again this probably won't work if there is a few thousands of play, but it is certainly worth a try in my case.

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Lenny, Given you have a good hub. Couldn't you heat treat a hub (heat it with a touch) and cool quickly to harden the material. Would this improve the life of the hub ?

rocmoc n AZ

The bearing has to spin in order to damage the hub, that's what is causing the problem, and yes the casting is not nearly as hard as the bearing race so it will be the wear point. If you have a new hub go ahead and use the lock tight smeared on the inside of the hub when seating the bearing. It will help prevent the bearing from turning. I can't tell you how many bearing hubs I have re-used over the years whether it be for motorcycle or machine use. The machine press from the manufacturer was probably not enough to begin with, could of been for many reasons including easier for the assemblers to push the bearings in without using a press, who knows? I've been to many a factory in Asia and I've seen some strange goings on over there. Heat treating is tough to do at home and doesn't work very well, and not a great idea to send it out unless you know the rockwell you need or you can get back a piece of steel that will break like glass. But in this case heat treating is not the answer, you don't want two hardened parts, you want the press fit to be the correct tolerance, and with most bearing applications I machine to 2-tenths and never more than 5-tenths.

I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but I have over 30 years owning and operation a manufacturing company, and well versed in many applications. I have had many a disaster to attend to, and if I can help save someone some time, money, and aggravation I am glad to do so.

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I guess it depends on how worn (how much the bearing spun and damaged the hub). In my case I still had to use a rubber mallet to tap them in, but it should of been about 2-tenths fit to be best.

I have had lots of good luck seating bearings for applications such as this in the past using the green thread lock to assure that the bearing doesn't spin. Again this probably won't work if there is a few thousands of play, but it is certainly worth a try in my case.

My good hub required taping the bearing in. My bad hub went in on it own without any help and could be pulled out with my fingers.

rocmoc n AZ

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The bearing has to spin in order to damage the hub, that's what is causing the problem, and yes the casting is not nearly as hard as the bearing race so it will be the wear point. If you have a new hub go ahead and use the lock tight smeared on the inside of the hub when seating the bearing. It will help prevent the bearing from turning. I can't tell you how many bearing hubs I have re-used over the years whether it be for motorcycle or machine use. The machine press from the manufacturer was probably not enough to begin with, could of been for many reasons including easier for the assemblers to push the bearings in without using a press, who knows? I've been to many a factory in Asia and I've seen some strange goings on over there. Heat treating is tough to do at home and doesn't work very well, and not a great idea to send it out unless you know the rockwell you need or you can get back a piece of steel that will break like glass. But in this case heat treating is not the answer, you don't want two hardened parts, you want the press fit to be the correct tolerance, and with most bearing applications I machine to 2-tenths and never more than 5-tenths.

I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but I have over 30 years owning and operation a manufacturing company, and well versed in many applications. I have had many a disaster to attend to, and if I can help save someone some time, money, and aggravation I am glad to do so.

Hay, you differently know more about this than me. I do know BMW uses the same design and you have to press the bearing out & in. Tapping will not work & Locktight is not required. There is never a problem with the hub on a BMW but the bearings which are almost identical in design to the Trooper can fail anytime after 40,000 miles. Only wish I could get that many miles out of any component of my Trooper, LOL ! Thanks for the feedback.

rocmoc n AZ

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My good hub required taping the bearing in. My bad hub went in on it own without any help and could be pulled out with my fingers.

rocmoc n AZ

As long as the bearing does not "rock" I would try it if you have to like I described. You just have to be careful not to get the Lock Tight inside the bearing. I usually smear it inside the hub and also on the bearing outer race. Make sure the hub is cleaned with acetone and also the outer bearing. To get them out I have to use a torch to melt the Lock Tight. I find that the GREEN "permanent" is the best to use. Let it cure over night. I repaired the head on one of our 5 HP Milling machines like this over 5 years ago, and that machine is run hard daily with quite a bit of side-loads.

I do like the idea of a Timkin type bearing like automotive over the ball bearings, and I think I'm going to check out how the one you mentioned was done.

I drilled and installed Zerks in my new ball joints yesterday and hope that will help their life. They are kind of crappy as far as quality, not smooth at all like most automotive types.

I did find a way to us VW (1968) tie rod ends over the Joyner one's though. Make a sleeve with the taper I.D. to accept the VW end and insert the assembly into the existing hole on the hub arm. There is just enough threads to get a good hold using a nylon lock nut. You do have to cut the tie rod and weld in a threaded bung for the VW end, but the results are far better than the stock one's. No slop at all.

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