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Transfer Case for T2

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BigDogDaddy's post,

Has anyone figured out how to get a high/low range in the trooper T2.?? Looking at trying to install a transfer case out of a Sami..

I am putting this up for BigDogDaddy.

rocmoc n AZ

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BigDogDaddy's post,

Has anyone figured out how to get a high/low range in the trooper T2.?? Looking at trying to install a transfer case out of a Sami..

I am putting this up for BigDogDaddy.

rocmoc n AZ

Is there room for one??

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BigDogDaddy's post,

Has anyone figured out how to get a high/low range in the trooper T2.?? Looking at trying to install a transfer case out of a Sami..

I am putting this up for BigDogDaddy.

rocmoc n AZ

Without having my Trooper here to look at, the only thing I can envision would be some sort of divorced transfer case set up. It would have to be small & compact. It would most likely involve moving the motor around too. The problem is you have to transfer the output of the transmission into the transfercase then to the diffs. I think the design of our transmission takes up too much space because it a transmission/transfercase combo already. You'd be essentially adding a second transfer case. This has been done on rock crawlers, but only on very long wheel base ones (like pickups). It would be sweet if China came up with a selectable Hi/Lo transmission for ours.

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BigDogDaddy's post,

Has anyone figured out how to get a high/low range in the trooper T2.?? Looking at trying to install a transfer case out of a Sami..

I am putting this up for BigDogDaddy.

rocmoc n AZ

I don't think I would attempt that one. There isn't much I can't do when it comes to modifying things but I would shy away from this one. If you put it in front of the transmisson, it would be centered about below the rear of the parking brake handle and then have to reach off to the drivers side to get front and rear drive shafts to the diffs. I think that would require some fairly major frame mods. Suspose you could kick the engine over to the right to help. If it was installed behind the transmission, there wouldn't be much room to run the rear drive shaft to the diff. It would have to be installed at as angle down from the trans using a CV joint then another CV joiint behind it at the diff. The rear drive shaft currently runs close enough to the oil pan that there may not be enough room to even work there. To do it correctly, it would require removal of nearly everything including the fire wall behind the drivers seat. In other words, stripped down to basically a frame with 2 diffs and an engine/trans combo in place with not much more then frame tubes to look at. Then start cutting and fitting. The more I talk about it here, the more I think it cold be done but for myself, it I were to go that far, I would rather start the entire vehicle from scratch using a different engine, driveline and better suspension geometry and end up with a far superior product when done. It could have a lot more power, low range for rock crawling, much better clearance, better handling, be faster in the trails and over the rough stuff, well, better in everything including parts and engine mod parts availability. Oh, and rather then rattle and shake, you would have something that would rock and roll.

Lenny

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I don't think I would attempt that one. There isn't much I can't do when it comes to modifying things but I would shy away from this one. If you put it in front of the transmisson, it would be centered about below the rear of the parking brake handle and then have to reach off to the drivers side to get front and rear drive shafts to the diffs. I think that would require some fairly major frame mods. Suspose you could kick the engine over to the right to help. If it was installed behind the transmission, there wouldn't be much room to run the rear drive shaft to the diff. It would have to be installed at as angle down from the trans using a CV joint then another CV joiint behind it at the diff. The rear drive shaft currently runs close enough to the oil pan that there may not be enough room to even work there. To do it correctly, it would require removal of nearly everything including the fire wall behind the drivers seat. In other words, stripped down to basically a frame with 2 diffs and an engine/trans combo in place with not much more then frame tubes to look at. Then start cutting and fitting. The more I talk about it here, the more I think it cold be done but for myself, it I were to go that far, I would rather start the entire vehicle from scratch using a different engine, driveline and better suspension geometry and end up with a far superior product when done. It could have a lot more power, low range for rock crawling, much better clearance, better handling, be faster in the trails and over the rough stuff, well, better in everything including parts and engine mod parts availability. Oh, and rather then rattle and shake, you would have something that would rock and roll.

Lenny

It would be a lot of work.. The only place that it would work is between the seats.. Have to gut out most every thing there and raise the engine and trany.. All ready modified the suspension and now wish I would have started from scratch but it worked good to start with just need lower gears.. If there was some kind of two speed that would go between the engine and trany would be the best.. I talk to you at the get together in Farmington NM, and you were think about some planetary gear set for yours.. How is that going.??

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Now I remember you. You laid your rig over on its side at the end of the day. You were already climbing crazy stuff. I am the guy who broke and was riding the dirtbike the day it rained on us.

Welcome again !

rocmoc n AZ

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It would be a lot of work.. The only place that it would work is between the seats.. Have to gut out most every thing there and raise the engine and trany.. All ready modified the suspension and now wish I would have started from scratch but it worked good to start with just need lower gears.. If there was some kind of two speed that would go between the engine and trany would be the best.. I talk to you at the get together in Farmington NM, and you were think about some planetary gear set for yours.. How is that going.??

The planitary gear approach is workable but it too, is very complicated. Not so much putting it in, that is tough too, but designing a box that engages and disegages. I originally planned on putting one on each axel to take all the stress off any parts of the drive train. If they are there, then they need to swing with the suspension and that makes it a lot more complex yet. So now I'm thinking using one in front of the transmission and one behind. I don't feel too bad about the diff taking the torque. Diffs have been going bad but not because they have been tearing the gears out. I would be real concerned of having something between the engine and trans because I don't think the trans would take triple the torque. Right now, the plaintary gear idea is on hold. Too many other things to do first and it's complexity keeps moving it down the list.

Lenny

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It would be full-time lower gearing but the gear reduction unit from the VW bus trans-axle mounted on each hub. When we were into dune buggies, if we wanted a lower geared buggy we ran the bus trans-axle. The gear reduction unit is a bolt on unit to the regular trans-axle. Maybe it could be adapted!

OR, maybe a gear reduction unit on each driveline. I like this idea best. The unit is strong enough.

rocmoc n AZ

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Seems to me I heard or read that some one had just put a lower first gear in the tranny along with a higher 5th gear. Did I hallucinate, is it even possible, how hard would that be to do? I'd even be up for that mod.

Kinarfi

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Seems to me I heard or read that some one had just put a lower first gear in the tranny along with a higher 5th gear. Did I hallucinate, is it even possible, how hard would that be to do? I'd even be up for that mod.

Kinarfi

You may be able to lower the gearing in the transmission but the amount would be limited. For a good crawling gear I would want about a 3:1 reduction. If they were put on each drive shaft like I'm thinking for the planitary set up or as Rocmoc said is probably the best approach. I would want it to engage or disengage. That is what I would do with the planitary. Gee, I'm just feeling I'm gaining on projects and you guys now got me thinking about the palnitary possibility again. I've have it shelved for some time now. It can be done but will require taking the planitary setups out of an older 350 chevy automatic transmission, which is what I have, and creating a way to lock it out to use the planitary or not. This entire system then needs to be put into a custom housing that has good bearings coming in and out with seals so everything can be run in an oil bath. I've got it sketched out but the machining operations are quite complex and will take a long time to prototype. Once developed, it could all be done on CNC machinery at a reasonable cost. I figure it would take at least 2-3 weeks on the computer in 3d modeling software, I use Solidworks, to develope the to the point of blueprints then probably another 2-3 weeks to build 2 units. One for the front drive shaft and one for the rear.

Lenny

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You may be able to lower the gearing in the transmission but the amount would be limited. For a good crawling gear I would want about a 3:1 reduction. If they were put on each drive shaft like I'm thinking for the planitary set up or as Rocmoc said is probably the best approach. I would want it to engage or disengage. That is what I would do with the planitary. Gee, I'm just feeling I'm gaining on projects and you guys now got me thinking about the palnitary possibility again. I've have it shelved for some time now. It can be done but will require taking the planitary setups out of an older 350 chevy automatic transmission, which is what I have, and creating a way to lock it out to use the planitary or not. This entire system then needs to be put into a custom housing that has good bearings coming in and out with seals so everything can be run in an oil bath. I've got it sketched out but the machining operations are quite complex and will take a long time to prototype. Once developed, it could all be done on CNC machinery at a reasonable cost. I figure it would take at least 2-3 weeks on the computer in 3d modeling software, I use Solidworks, to develope the to the point of blueprints then probably another 2-3 weeks to build 2 units. One for the front drive shaft and one for the rear.

Lenny

So, is it done yet????(LOL)

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So, is it done yet????(LOL)

I don't have all the machines for building the planetary set up.. Any idea on the cost of two of those set ups.? The transfer case out of the older Suzuki Sami is a really small unit and has alot of gearing options.. You can get all the way down to a 6.5:1 (187%) in low range and a 20% in high range.. Could the run the 33" tires and be about the same gearing in high as stock..

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Now I remember you. You laid your rig over on its side at the end of the day. You were already climbing crazy stuff. I am the guy who broke and was riding the dirtbike the day it rained on us.

Welcome again !

rocmoc n AZ

That is me had alot of fun need to get together again one of these days if they ever slow down so I can get cought up.. Just now starting get this FORM thing figured out alot of good info.. guess you got yours all back together did you lower the rear end down while it was broken out any ways.?

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That is me had alot of fun need to get together again one of these days if they ever slow down so I can get cought up.. Just now starting get this FORM thing figured out alot of good info.. guess you got yours all back together did you lower the rear end down while it was broken out any ways.?

I did lower the rear when I made the repair. Angle on the CV Joint is much less.

Only way I can think the Suzuki transfer case would work is to install forward of the engine and drive from only one side of the trans. Routing of the new drivelines would be the major problem.

rocmoc n AZ

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