Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i have a joyner renegade 800 that i just replaced the head gasket on, i had the head resurfaced and checked out due to warpage, i have everything put back together and noe only have 60-70 psi compression? ANY thoughts, it will not start, I have checked and rechecked a million times on the timing. Please Help any IDEAS?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By chris.minix
      Is the any other ball joint brands out there for the Troopers? 
    • By dave5.0stang
      Hi I am new to the forum.  I have a small kids utv with a 125 4 stroke motor. It sat for over a year and I decided to get it running again.  Put a new carburetor on it and it ran better than ever. Change oil and fixed the brakes kids probably drove it for a few weeks maybe 3 to 4 hour maybe. Went to put it away after it sat for maybe an hour wouldn't start.  Just turns over no spitting or sputtering.  Checked compression has 150 psi, getting spark, changed spark plug old one was pretty black.  Put new cdi on and coil still nothing.  Any ideas would be appreciated thanks.
    • By rmissildine
      Hello all.  I'm new to the forum and have read all the posts I could find concerning the 550 Mule, so far no one with my problem. So, I'll give it a go and hopefully get an answer.
      I got this mule about three years ago, had to do some minor repairs, and it's been a great machine. Last fall, I noticed an oil leak coming from the left side around the crankcase cover.  I was able to slow the leak considerably, but it still leaked.  I never had the time to tear it down due to work. I retire in March of this year and decided to fix it with a new cover gasket. I ordered a new gasket and crankshaft seal and while waiting for them to arrive, I began the tear down and cleaning of the mating surfaces.  Got the seal and gasket installed and the cover back on and torqued. Decided to crank it up and let it idle a bit to check for any oil leaks before I put the converters back on. Fired right up, let it idle for about 10 minutes, no leaks. I'm happy at this point...
      Next day, installed the inside converter cover, new belt and converters, not the outside cover though. I wanted to see how the new belt was going to work out. I still had the rear end jacked up so it wouldn't move.  Guess what, it wouldn't start up. Cranked over like always, just wouldn't start... Now I'm bummed. So I start checking gas, spark and everything is good. Even tried a squirt of starting fluid, and it did fire a couple of times but no start. Now I'm even more bummed. Time for a break.
      Now I've worked on everything from small engines to tractors and have never had this problem.  After a little thought I decided to run a compression test. The repair manual lists 115 - 178 psi as the correct range, I had 30 psi!!!!! What in the world happened over night. I did spray a light oil into the cylinder and it came up to about 60 psi but that was all I could get. I checked the valve clearances, their good.
      Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can point me in the right direction cause I really like this little machine.
      Thanks for your help,
      Roger
    • By mseawell
      Does anyone have the compression specs for the MSU 700 engine?  Mine is smoking something terrible at times and I would like to do a compression test prior to tearing it down. 
      Also will too much oil cause it to smoke?  To improve the wet shoe clutch wear, a dealer/parts supplier suggested that I raise the oil level to the bottom on the dip stick threads, which is approximately 3/4 of a quart.
      A little background this is a 2016 (I purchased it new in April of 2016) MSU 700 (Tractor Supply version) it now has approximately 500 hrs and 2900 miles on it.  I use it almost daily on the farm and also take it to the VA and VW mountains to trail ride.  I thought the belt was slipping, well I know it was slipping, so I replaced the belt and changed the oil, but new tires on it, greased, etc... When I finished it smoked like a freight train and I realized that the clutch was slipping also.  Oh, I've used Mobile 1 V-Twin Motorcycle (supposed to be for wet clutches but not MA or MA-2 approved) oil in it since the first oil change.   I replaced the wet clutch and switched to a synthetic motorcycle oil that is MA-2 approved.  No more belt or clutch slipping but it still smoked heavily.  Yesterday I ran it at the Rev limit in low and it stopped smoking.  I checked the oil, added a little to bring the level back up to the dip stick threads.  It started smoking again until I ran it at the Rev Limit for a few minutes then it stopped smoking.  
       
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Budmanbiker
      I have a 2016 750 crew (it is a Cub Cadet but same machine). It has 108 hours, 49 miles. Basically new, but I got it used with 22 miles on it. The guy said it was too big, and that he wanted a RZR. It ran great for a little over a year. It then developed a rough idle and won't wind up to get past about 20 mph in high range. I have tried countless things, and I keep coming back to overfueling. It doesn' seem to be throwing a code.  I have done the following...
      Spark plug (multiple times)
      Check, clean air filter 
      Sprayed brake clean around intake while running (to be sure it isn' sucking air).
      Checked valve adjustment
      Replaced fuel pump assy., after breaking it trying to remove to check in tank filter.
      Checked wiring and connections
      Checked/cleaned spark arrestor screen
      Replaced fuel, trying different octane. 
      Checked compression.
      Compression should be 1200 kpa,  mine was between 700 and 800 kpa.  Also noticed oil had been increasing and is now milky looking. I figured gas in oil due to overfueling. Dad said milky or foamy meant coolant in oil so we figured blown head gasket. So, we put a new head gasket on it. Old one didn't look blown. Valves were tight like new, could still see cross hatch marks in cylinder wall (like new as it IS still new!) Put it all back together, torqued bolts properly etc... no change. Still runs poorly, compression still low! I don't think it is a compression issue. We pulled the rocker cover back off to check out the automatic compression release that we had noticed on the timing chain  sproket on the end of the camshaft. It seems to be working properly. Then a lightbulb went off. "Automatic compression release" appears to slightly open an exhaust valve... when?... while cranking engine to start. There is no way that we're going to get 1200 kpa compression (unless I were to back that exhaust valve way off)! I may try that when I re-install the rocker cover.  
      Anyway, I'm pretty convinced that it is fuel in the oil, and that it is over fueling like I originally suspected. But how do I know the cause?? Book says over fueling could be caused by Air Pressure sensor, o2 sensor, Solar Term door position fault, or ECU program error or damage. Those are some pricey parts.  Any input??
       


×
×
  • Create New...