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Joyner trooper 1100cc


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here's the schematic I used on my 08, I think yellow went to the starter solenoid, but it needed to be heavier to slam the solenoid plunger home, on a few occasions, I felt I was going to be stranded because I could hear it come in but not start, the cure was an interposing relay,

I'll see if I can find some of my old photos, PM me you address

2009 Joyner Trooper Wiring.png

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Hey my email isxxxxxxxxxxxxx yeah I found that but I'm not really good at reading those lol. The pink is the hot the purple is the starter dunno what the yellow is and whatever the other color is was the gauges. I pulled all my fuses changed relays around and they still wouldn't come on the left it alone for w days went back out there and the gauges started working again but now I'm not getting fire to my coil I think. Would you happen to know which one of the 3 wires to the coil is suppose to be hot?

 

The coil is controlled by the ECU, information on ECU coming

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See my fan and fuel pump don't work either I have both of those hooked up to switches. I went ahead and ordered the original switch to see if that's part or the problem. Also are these buggies pretty reliable motor and trans and everything other then,having to tinker with them some or is it really a all time thing?

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I tinker and play with mine continually, unnecessarily, but I'm retired and I have made tons of modifications, even stretched it 4" because I'm tall, added "engine speed control" because my legs & feet don't work like they should, but it has always got me back home, I think the engine and tranny are GOOD+++ you' enjoy them, If you get a high pitched squeak, start looking fro a crack in the frame and tubing.

fuel pump and fan - pull you fuse and relay block off the panel behind the driver's seat and look for burned wires and connectors, common problem,

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I thought I sent that this morning, but I got looking for a foto and never got it sent, when you pull the fuse/relay box that's behind the seat, look at the backside for burnt, melted, discolored wires and connections.  I replace all my relays with FETs and built new fuse blocks., I'll keep looking for that photo.

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found the photos on my back up drive.
Spark,(from the computer), fan, and fuel pump are controlled by the relays in the fuse block behind the seat
The photo are what I did to my 08 Trooper, sold it. now driving a 2015---- LOVE IT ------
58cb5e81ebc23_FuseBlock(16).thumb.jpg.99010ba1643bb776a17a0e742d5e1934.jpg
58cb5e8d002a2_FuseBlock(4).thumb.jpg.14f475b2e4ab5a673eb6020096ef7233.jpg
58cb5e99220c5_RearFuseBlock.thumb.jpg.8019125b48698172b0b7b1a523ef7930.jpg
58cb5fefa06f7_TrooperSchematicHELP.png.3a1dcf19ba941cc1a762ee2030032f98.png

Thanks man you've been a lot of help. I looked and didn't see any burnt wires but I'll run them down and check to see if I find a problem somewhere I'm like you I'd love to do away with the fuse box but that don't look like it was a piece of cake to do lol.

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wooooo hhhoooo dude-----WAY TO GO

If you want to make a new fuse block similar to mine, I'll be glad to help.  If you want to get rid of the relays, that's easy too. the first 2 photos are the relays and fuses for the front and the 3rd is for behind the seat. the left side of the first on has the blinker relay and then 5 FETs to take the place of 5 relays.  If you're interested, let me know.

Where are you at?

20130709_123331.jpg

20130709_123337.jpg

20130714_120807.jpg

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without disconnecting anything, spread the wires so I can see as many as possible and take some photos for me. I assume you want it to work with the key, but be sure and tell me what you have in mind,

 

how would you like to swap out you relay with a FET?  It has 4 wires going to it and mounted on a piece of aluminum to shed any heat generated, it's more of a precaution than a necessity, if the alum is isolated from ground, you can mount directly to it, other wise it need to be isolated from the aluminum, see pictures, 3 post up.

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I've done away with the relay behind the seat other than the main relay. But didn't know how that one would work with the computer. I'll get you a pic here in a few. And is there anyway just to put in on a fuse instead of a relay the waterproof box i,have only holds a regular fuse

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don't know why not, switch brings in relay, relay powers up computer, eliminate the middle man. 

I think the computer has constant power, then 'run' power from your switch

Here's how  I think it will wire up, first red box is stock 2nd box is how to wire it, just deal with the color coded wires, it's too much hassle to dig up the pin numbers of the computer.

Ps. don't lose this, I deleted it after uploading it .ooops

58d0c58818b31_TrooperECUswitch.thumb.png.68b4345afb9a6a2d382feaee2f0b37a6.png

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The top wire to my fuel pump relay was showing grounded when i,turned the key to the on position. So I touched a hot wire to it and now it's been working through the relay every since lol any idea what happened? And I don't really now what the FET do. Will it cycle the fuel pump and shut off like with the relay until you start it or will it act like a straight wire and stay on?

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A Field Effect Transistor (MOS FET) would act like a relay, you apply a control voltage and it passes current, just like when you pull in a relay, only it solid state, if you already have it on a switch, go that route. The FET conversion was mostly tinkering because I could and I wanted stay with the automation, you've already left automation and use individual switches, they work, go with it. If you go back to relays, you turn the ECU, it brings in the pump one relay, that relay brings in another relay, Fan, and then it cycles and waits for the starter.

It is my guess that when you measured the fuel pump you actually read THROUGH the windings to ground, very low resistance.

The way I see you going down the road is, you hop in, buckle up, throw the helmet on floor so it won't roll out, flip the fuel switch, flip the ECU switch, push the start button, stick it gear and dump the clutch, then turn on the fan after it warms up, Pretty close????

For me, It's hop in, belt in, clutch AND BRAKE, (brake is interlocked to starter), turn key all the way to the right, release key, release parking brake, put in gear and go. 

Heading out tomorrow for a few days, going down to AZ, just past St George and the south to see the scenery. I'll check in with you when I get back.

 

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When I got it , it wasn't running and the fuel pump and fan wasn't working and it wasn't sending power to the coil and a after market ignition,was on it. So I had to straight wire the fan and pump to get it to work and a wire was pulled lose that sent power to the computer. So the switch still wouldn't send power to the coil pack for some reason when it was turn all the way to the right so that why I put the push start on it cuz at the time I didn't know where to get parts or anything. I just got the regular ignition yesterday trying to get everything swapped back to running right other than the fan I rather be in control of it instead of something failing and it not coming in when it gets hot. And just a idea I was looking at has anyone thought about it tried to use like a marine circuit panel,with the reset breakers in it for the fuse box?

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On 3/26/2017 at 7:00 PM, Jarrettj88 said:

Hey I haven't rode mine much except around the house but i,cleaned my gas tank out and noticed there no hose or anything in the tank so do it stall out going up or down a hill when you get low on gas?

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YES, DOWN HILL, don't know if it's still posted from 5 or so years back, but lenny & I did a lot work on that problem and it happened to me a few times, I put a surge tank in mine, if you want more about this idea, ask

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