Quantcast
Jump to content

Fun Dad

Slow 2017 HiSun Strike 250

Recommended Posts

I have a lot of contacts at HiSUN, and we work together to help everyone out there with questions. Remember, I am not employed by HiSUN, but rather a person that started out just like you, buying one of these units and looking for help. If I don't have the answer, I will get it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I wanted to spill the beans sort of with some exciting news! Next year there is a national event that will be televised that will have youth UTV racing with only HiSUN Strike 250's. I am working with HiSUN and another group to get this off the  ground. We are working out the details now, but it should be exciting to watch HiSUN Strike 250's tear up the track, racing along side other HiSUN 250's. I can't say much more now, but when allowed, I will tell you folks more about it in the coming months. I was lucky enough to be chosen as the supplier of race parts for this event. They will also be using the new HiSUN Strike 550 and the Strike 1000. So three classes next year should be a great year.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, strike250 said:

I can get the 2015 ECU, but its pretty easy to just send me yours and I will re-flash it for you. I normally charge up to $100 for this, as a new ECU is about $344.00. You would only need to purchase a new ECU if you wanted a stock one and a modified one to exchange.  I will do it for $80.00 for any customers from this site.

What's the turn-around time for getting the ECU re-flashed?  Can you re-flash it the same day you get it, and send it back out that day or the next?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fun Dad,
I bought an ECU for my 250 off eBay with the intention of sending it to Matt for reprogramming, but it came with original firmware on it.  My buggy nows revs up to around 9000 RPM before electronic rev limit starts stuttering.  My top speed has increased, but I'm not sure how much yet.  I haven't let it "stretched it's legs" completely out yet.

Here's the link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ECU-Controller-UTV-250-ECM-HS-EFI-Box-39200-120-0000-HiSUN-MASSIMO-BENNCHE-TSC/351694181290

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/5/2018 at 11:49 AM, DigitalDan said:

Fun Dad,
I bought an ECU for my 250 off eBay with the intention of sending it to Matt for reprogramming, but it came with original firmware on it.  My buggy nows revs up to around 9000 RPM before electronic rev limit starts stuttering.  My top speed has increased, but I'm not sure how much yet.  I haven't let it "stretched it's legs" completely out yet.

Here's the link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ECU-Controller-UTV-250-ECM-HS-EFI-Box-39200-120-0000-HiSUN-MASSIMO-BENNCHE-TSC/351694181290

 

Digital Dan,

Thanks for the reach out!  Yeah, did the same thing and am now able to get 8900 out of the machine per the gauge on the dash.  Definitely better, but like you say, you still bang up against the cutout at 8900 rpm, which is still only about giving me 36 mph on the speedo.  Much better than where we were, but still will be annoying on the roads, especially heading downhill.   It now seems that we are not loading the engine enough to keep it from banging up against the max rev limiter.  The obvious next step is to change the final gearing from 42 tooth final sprocket to a 40 tooth.  I am also planning on getting a 38 tooth as well.  The final gearing ration change should give us taller gearing and make it more tough for the engine to pull so strong to 8900 rpm.   Unless you beat me to it, i"ll let you know what I find with the gearing changes we are both making the exact same mods.  BTW - Matt at 250UTV.com (aka Strike 250 Advanced Member on this blog) has been incredibly helpful for me on this journey!  He is a Strike 250 Rock Star!!!  For those of you that are really trying to get their Strike 250 to shine, please visit his website at www.250UTV.com, he has got some real goodies for this machine..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/11/2018 at 2:32 PM, strike250 said:

Just an update on the slow unit issue. I wanted to make sure I get back to everyone regarding the slow top speed on their Hisun 250's. After confirming with HiSUN, the 2017 and newer units have a different gearing inside the engine as well as a modified ECU. This was in response to customer feedback regarding top speed. Some customers were complaining about the units going too fast. So HiSUN changed some things to help control this. I am sure this is the new response from most manufactures now a days.  As no one wants to get sued or have legal issues. It has gotten to be a very liable state we live in now, and if just a few people complain about something, things get changed. I am working on new sprockets which should be here within a week. I am also working on the ECU and hopefully it will be done about the same time. I have yet to confirm if the old gearing will still be available or if it will automatically supersede to the new part number. I will keep everyone up to date on my website.

Matt

Hi Matt. I have been reading this thread and I think I have a similar issue. 

I bought a new HISUN HS400 EFI recently. Still in break-in period with about 15 miles on it. This thing starts and runs just fine, like new, but at about 12mph it sputters/stumbles/boggs and does not want to go any faster than 12MPH. 
Does not sputter in neutral and revs very well in Neutral. 
Any thoughts on what is wrong?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question about your HS400. when you are driving it, do you have the seat belt connected? Just wondering because it can effect the speed limit. I would go to the back of the seat belt connection located when you lift the bed up, you will see the light grey connector. Unplug the electronic connector for the seat belt and try it again. See what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, strike250 said:

I have a question about your HS400. when you are driving it, do you have the seat belt connected? Just wondering because it can effect the speed limit. I would go to the back of the seat belt connection located when you lift the bed up, you will see the light grey connector. Unplug the electronic connector for the seat belt and try it again. See what happens.

Yep!  Dummy me. If I was a safe driver and wore my seatbelt I would have already solved this, LOL.  

After I read your suggestion, I simply took a ride with my seatbelt on. Problem fixed, goes as fast as I need now.  For the heck of it, I did unplug the wire and it lets the vehicle go full speed.  So, to recap, apparently there is a speed limiter with the seatbelt indicator.

Thanks for the tip Matt. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fuel tank sending unit is not to hard to locate. it should be under the seat area. There should be a connector that takes the signal from the sending unit to the gauge. Check to make sure the connector is properly connected first. Then you can measure the resistance from the connector. It would be helpful to have the fuel tank sending unit out of the fuel tank. It is part of the fuel pump assembly. Remove the plastic ring securing it in the fuel tank. Pull it up and out easy, Now you can slowly push up on the fuel tank sending unit and watch the gauge to make sure it responds correctly. If not, then measure the resistance in the wiring. If it does not meet the OEM specifications, then the sending unit is faulty. If it is good, then you will need to check the connections to the gauge. If everything is good at this point, and you are getting the correct signal all the way to the gauge, then the gauge is faulty.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a great video showing how to test any fuel tank sending unit. Pretty simple, don't worry about the color of the wires in the video, but the process is the same.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem, call me if you have any problems.  Here's a pic of what you might come across. The fuel tank will have two connectors, one is for the fuel pump and the other is for the fuel tank sending unit. You will know when you test it which one it is. But by lifting on the plastic float, you will see the Ohm meter rise and fall. Or it might just be stuck or sticking on something? Moving it by hand might fix it. who knows..................

 

SP250_FuelTank.jpg.thumb.png.1ad821bdba6febf5bd53cb7152cad4a8.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks exactly like mine. Doesn't make sense the fuel gage does not work. I'm guessing float must be stuck. I did check it out briefly this evening. Plug on pump looks good. I have to get a tool to remove retainer, but I tried fishing a coat hanger thru filler into tank thinking I might poke free a stuck float but nothing happened. I can't believe the digital gage would be bad. It's a brand new UTV. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you absolutely positive that the tank is full?  I thought I was having the same problem with my 250 Sector when I first got it, until I filled it up to the point where gas was just about to start over flowing.  Then the gauge showed full.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/7/2018 at 9:17 AM, Fun Dad said:

Digital Dan,

Thanks for the reach out!  Yeah, did the same thing and am now able to get 8900 out of the machine per the gauge on the dash.  Definitely better, but like you say, you still bang up against the cutout at 8900 rpm, which is still only about giving me 36 mph on the speedo.  Much better than where we were, but still will be annoying on the roads, especially heading downhill.   It now seems that we are not loading the engine enough to keep it from banging up against the max rev limiter.  The obvious next step is to change the final gearing from 42 tooth final sprocket to a 40 tooth.  I am also planning on getting a 38 tooth as well.  The final gearing ration change should give us taller gearing and make it more tough for the engine to pull so strong to 8900 rpm.   Unless you beat me to it, i"ll let you know what I find with the gearing changes we are both making the exact same mods.  BTW - Matt at 250UTV.com (aka Strike 250 Advanced Member on this blog) has been incredibly helpful for me on this journey!  He is a Strike 250 Rock Star!!!  For those of you that are really trying to get their Strike 250 to shine, please visit his website at www.250UTV.com, he has got some real goodies for this machine..

Hey all, I am new to this. Would it be ideal to just buy this and put in a 36 or 40 tooth? Or send it to you Matt and have it reflashed? Dont need it to go 50mph but I would prefer to have the best launch and maybe 40 top end mph. 

 

Thoughts??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello, I would send in your ECU to me, let me flash it and also if your rear sprocket is a stock 42 tooth, I would go to 38-36 rear sprocket. The lower the rear tooth count will provide you with the higher top speed, the lower rear tooth count will give you quicker off the line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×