Quantcast
Jump to content

Doesn't want to start


Rwpjtk

Recommended Posts

My 2013 500 will only start if I floor the gas pedal and then once it starts I have to pump the gas until it warms up a little it sounds horrible until it warms up.(around 20 seconds)and then it will stay running. The exhaust smells like raw gas for a little while. The throttle body has been changed. Someone suggested the mass air flow sensor could be the problem ( is that the MAP). It has been to 2 different shops with it not being fixed. I haven't been able to ride it since last fall.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the only problem I've had with it since I bought it. Yes I talked to Massimo they said sound like the fuel pump but one shop said they tested that and it was fine. The second shop had it for 5 weeks and never called me on it or even worked on it. They wouldn't answer their  phone or return calls after I left messages. But when I dropped it off the guy said it sounded like the mass air flow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

You really need to have a diagnostic code reader with live data plugged in. This is the only way to read the EFI system as it runs. It will show if you have any hidden codes, it will show the voltage at the TPS, engine coolant sensor and so forth. All these things need to be working correctly for the engine to get the correct spark and fuel. But with out a Diagnostic reader plugged in, you will have to sit there with a meter and measure the electrical items one by one. The fuel injector simply gets a signal to pulse, this opens the injector at specific times to squirt fuel into the cylinder. This is confirmed by signals from either the timing sensor, or crank sensor. You will also need to make sure something as simple as the coolant temp sensor is working properly, if it is not reading properly, it will tell the engine it is either too cold or too hot. This will effect your fuel problems. You will also have to measure the map sensor, the tps sensor and so on. That is why it is so much easier to get it plugged in and read it as you try to start it. Is there anyone close to you that has a diagnostic reader to plug in when you try to start it?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have no idea what that means. Massimo needs a Delphi code reader. The guy that was working on it is at a lose. He doesnt have a code reader and will not spend the kind of money they want for one.

Now it won't start at all. It's getting to much fuel at start up. The whole throttle assembly, the injector has been changed. 

On 12/8/2017 at 6:31 PM, kenfain said:

Is this thing OBD2, or something else? If it is, OBD2, there's fairly cheap options out there for live data readers. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OBD2 is the same as what is used on all cars and light trucks manufactured for sale in America since 1996. If it has the same plug, it likely takes the same reader.  The professional versions of these readers can cost more than a thousand dollars. When software for these professional readers is added ( and they're updated often, since each manufacturer has brand specific codes) the cost can be several thousand dollars. But the good news is, there's generic information in each system, that's common to all vehicles that use the system. So you don't need the expensive version of this tool. You can use the cheap one, (they're about a hundred bucks) and do a little detective work. The code reader will tell you which part, or system needs to be investigated further. However in your case even that might not be necessary. But unfortunately, it will require someone who either knows, or has access to specific voltage values for that particular models electrical components. This information would still be necessary, even if you had the code reader. That's not saying that a reader wouldn't help. But you still need to be able to decipher the gibberish that a code reader puts out. On a car, there's lots of information on the internet that helps you decipher the information. On one of these, there just isn't that much that can be wrong with it, since there just aren't many components there. And I doubt that even the internet would help with diagnosis. I suspect that a multimeter and some time spent checking the components involved in telling the fuel system how much fuel it needs to start would be the best course of action.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The smell of raw gas in the exhaust tells me one or more of your injectors might be stuck open.  The excess fuel pressure after shutdown might be bleeding off into the cylinder making restart difficult.  But that would also show black smoke upon start up.  If you have a source of compressed air, you might be able to see or feel air coming out the injector.  Worth a try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 years later...

I have the benchee 500 tub. Just had it worked on. Fuel pump replaced, voltage regulator, injector,spark plug, throttle body. They called said it was fixed. Brought it home wife drove it across yard parked it. When I tried to restart it to move it never got it to start again. Am at a loss and about as aggravated as can be about it. It is sparking and I put another injector on it still nothing. I hear the fuel pump prime up and it is sparking. Shot a squirt of starting fluid didn’t even try to start. Any help would be appreciated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 In light of earlier posts in this thread. I'd check the valves. Because something happened to just make it stop even trying to start.

Just curious, but what method was used to verify the spark? Today's engines run with way more powerful spark than they used to.

Some older testers, and methods aren't able to verify there's enough power for it to start the engine. Only that there's actually a spark. 

I use a tester, that looks like a mini spark plug. There's a large gap. If the spark jumps the large gap, then there's plenty of fire to start. They're cheap, and easy to find, and easy to use.

Also they're absolutely necessary. It's recommended  that you not just pull the plug, and lay it on the head, to check spark anymore. Bad things can happen to delicate electronics  when doing this. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 12/22/2021 at 8:24 AM, kenfain said:

 In light of earlier posts in this thread. I'd check the valves. Because something happened to just make it stop even trying to start.

Just curious, but what method was used to verify the spark? Today's engines run with way more powerful spark than they used to.

Some older testers, and methods aren't able to verify there's enough power for it to start the engine. Only that there's actually a spark. 

I use a tester, that looks like a mini spark plug. There's a large gap. If the spark jumps the large gap, then there's plenty of fire to start. They're cheap, and easy to find, and easy to use.

Also they're absolutely necessary. It's recommended  that you not just pull the plug, and lay it on the head, to check spark anymore. Bad things can happen to delicate electronics  when doing this. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the valves were checked and adjusted in the shop that worked on it. They had called said it was ready we loaded it by starting it and driving on trailer. Made half a loop around my yard parked it now it won’t start. If you try it after sitting it acts like it wants to start one time. U try it again nothing. Let it sit awhile it does same thing one time then nothing. I cakes the spark by one of these inline spark testers. It sparks big time. Almost acts like it’s not getting fuel. At my wits end. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My opinion is, that it'll be far cheaper in the long run, to get the code reader now. Throwing parts at it, will only make you angrier. Last time I looked, the factory sold a code reader for these machines. It was several hundred dollars.

But there are cheaper delphi readers available. You just need the right plug to connect it. Other forum members have done this. I'm sure that I read a thread, just in the last week or so, that named a specific brand reader as an affordable option.

I think you should start a thread, to find out any information about the cheap Delphi code readers, that might work with your machine. It has to have the right plug, or it's useless till you get that specific plug in that matches yours. 

Take that information, and go from there. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dunno how much you know about code readers. But they only read codes that are actually there. Making their usefulness somewhat limited. Some problems don't generate any codes.

That's why you need  one that does live data. It'll tell you exactly what the engine is doing.

Still quite a challenge to figure out what's not right, but since all the information is there, it becomes a matter of going through it, and finding out what's out of place.

I just don't want you to spend a significant amount of money, thinking it's an instant solution. It's not an end all be all, that just gives you an instant solution. 

Instead, live data is a lot of gibberish to the non mechanically inclined  of us who don't fully understand the information stream it provides. But it's accurate information, you just have to take it one line at a time, and figure it out. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 12/22/2021 at 1:11 AM, Warden64 said:

I have the benchee 500 tub. Just had it worked on. Fuel pump replaced, voltage regulator, injector,spark plug, throttle body. They called said it was fixed. Brought it home wife drove it across yard parked it. When I tried to restart it to move it never got it to start again. Am at a loss and about as aggravated as can be about it. It is sparking and I put another injector on it still nothing. I hear the fuel pump prime up and it is sparking. Shot a squirt of starting fluid didn’t even try to start. Any help would be appreciated. 

I would do a compression test before adjusting the valves and then after it might tell you if your rings are worn out. The first test will tell you if your valves are good you want over 100 psi that is spec for a 500 I work on Benche, Massimo, Odes, and Hisun at my work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, KEG 440 said:

I would do a compression test before adjusting the valves and then after it might tell you if your rings are worn out. The first test will tell you if your valves are good you want over 100 psi that is spec for a 500 I work on Benche, Massimo, Odes, and Hisun at my work.

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By malenurse13
      We just bought a used 2017 American Landmaster TW450. No hour meter that I can find, so not sure exactly how much it has been used. 
      The first 2 days we had it, the starter was a little sketchy, but it started after 2-3 tries. Sometimes when turning the key, we would hear a loud metal "clink" sound. Like the starter made contact, but didn't have enough power to turn. 
      THIS MORNING... Turning the key, we hear a single click sound. That's it. Even with a new battery, the starter is still doing the same thing. Both batteries (old and new) were reading 12.8 volts on volt meter. So I'm wondering what else could be going on? Any ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated...
      Thank you!
    • By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!
    • By LindaCall60
      Purchased a 2011 bighorn banchee. Needs motor work. Not sure what. Husband is mechanic but not computer savvy. So, is there a manual that will tell him how to tear this down?  We have down loaded a service manual, but he says it doesn't tell him what he is looking for. 
    • By Round
      Bought a Massimo 500 last night. Stopped and filled it up on the way home and I put the wrong gas in it. Is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank that I can get to or will I have to siphon it out?
    • By Dave N.
      2020 Massimo Buck 400 - Won't start. Can hear the starter spinning, but motor never turns. Relay? Starter? Worked fine one day and not the next. Thanks for any help you can provide.
×
×
  • Create New...