Quantcast
Jump to content

ERV JR

Diff upgrade help

Recommended Posts

Ok guys I tore my diff apard anfrer shearing the ring gear bolts. Drug my butt after rearing it down, yesterday while placing a McMaster Carr order I searched the board for the part number and added the bolt s to my normal order. They showed up this morning and I realized they are long , really long. I grabbed a set of calipers and mic'ed the carrier and ring gear and come up with about 16mm in length.

 

So the question is why in the worldvare the bolts that folks talk about 40mm long ? Are you guys ordering them long so that they have a shank at the top where they go thru the carrier & cutting them off ?

 

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes!!! that is exactly the reason. I am the one who started the act of using these bolts, my reasoning being that the thread acts as a place for the bolt to start shearing, just cut them all to length and remember, you have to grind the head down also, I think I posted a photo of that also.  to grind them down, I used a drill and a grinder, and I never did agree with those who put nuts on the bolts, 

AND while you have access to the mating surfaces, sand them so the locktite has a little more to grab onto when you apply it to all the very clean surfaces and bolt when you do your final assembly. 

did you find any instruction on how to do all this or have they been lost?

Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff I didnt find any instructions. I cut the bokts to legth and shimmed the pinion to sit as deep as possible. I realized why these diffs break. They are junk. Lol . I can't shim the carrier to adjust back lash. Well without maching the case to allow for the carrier to move

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been cleaning my garage and ran into the original instruction papers that Lenny sent out with the shim kit. I'm wondering if there's much interest having them posted and the hassle of copying everything. We'll see!

Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, ricksrb said:

I have a copy Lenny sent me back in 2010. Hopefully you can open it.

Joyner Trooper Dif Kit FINAL DRAFT.doc

BEAUTIFUL!!!! THANKS, I have added it to Parts, Pieces, and Information for our Troopers & Joyners as 

Joyner Trooper Differential Rebuild Kit .doc, figured it would show up in searches better with that name.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, bigdan120 said:

Could just take photos and post up... Be easier imo. There's some that will benefit in the future I'm sure.

please take some photos of the bolt heads and how much machining you had to do for clearance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah man now the direction come out, too late for me. The lousy part was I spoke to Silver bullet and he said he had never heard of anyone shimming the spider gears. I had planned to do that just like I do in other diffs. I sorted thru my shims and found what was need to shim the pinion but didn't see any shims behinde the bearing on the carrier to tighten backlash anymore. Now I wish I just went with my plan and shimmed the spiders. I could have ordered plenty of shims. It is better but not ideal. Hopefully it lasts another few years an I can reset up as I'd like later. Bad thing is I tigged the spider gear shafts to the carrier as per Silver bullet but I could easily dress the weld with an endmill and pull them out

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • New to board and UTV/ATV

      Hello everyone and thank you for letting me join your forum.  My family moved from Illinois to Leadville Colorado about 3 months ago.  Leadville has a lot of trails to ride and some fun off road stuff  that i would love to start getting into with my boys. I currently have a 04 HD FXD Superglide that i might sell or trade for a UTV. My question is are there any UTV that are good solid used side by side that i could find for about $4500 or $5000? If not I will keep saving for something. If so what brand and year should i be looking for? Thank you for your help!!   Thank you Chris  

      By Biggz, in New Members Area

      • 4 replies
      • 114 views
    • Torque lube on head bolts

      Question for the near future  I notice a lot of people when rebuilding engines use ARP torque lube on head bolts. It supposedly helps you get a better more accurate torque  to spec. and will prevent bolts from snapping. ( i have new head bolts.)
       What do you y'all think?

      By Travis, in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

      • 2 replies
      • 192 views
    • Cylinder Head Bolts

      Hey, how important is it to buy new head bolts when rebuilding an engine? My brother who has rebuilt several big and small engines says it's important, some say it's an option, If you have the money, do it, If you don't, don't. 01 Kawasaki Mule 550 C5.

      By Travis, in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

      • 5 replies
      • 369 views
    • 2008 Renagade 4 missing on number 2 cyl

      Hi guys! Well I'm working on a Renagade 4 with the 800 chery.. Does anyone have pictures of the coil wiring? I need to make sure this stuff is correct.... it's missing on no.2 cylinder.. Just want to check wiring cause it looks like it is stretched to fit where it is.... Thank you!  

      By bigdan120, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

        
      • 10 replies
      • 345 views
    • Loctited Bolts

      What are y'alls thought on loctiting these bolts, Crankcase cover bolts and head bolts? @kenfain

      By Travis, in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

        
      • 10 replies
      • 420 views
×