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Travis' Mule 550


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Twenty four bucks for six inches of fuel line! It doesn't sound like it's even high pressure line. But it's still likely cheaper than driving to Houston to find it cheaper. You've got to wait on the key anyway, so if that's all that stands in the way, then I'd say you got off light. Typically on a rebuild, I'll make several trips to the local parts house for those odd bits.

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4 minutes ago, Travis said:

I found the key, it was in a parts bin where i put some of the hardware for it. 😐

Plus, driving to houston anymore you're risking your life!

One question,  do torque wrenches torque in reverse?   left handed threads on the drive pulleys bolts.

Glad you found the key! Maybe there's an old school parts house, or tractor parts supply, or even big rig parts nearby. Some of these places will have a diverse collection of hoses. Might have to go to several. I recently ran across this same thing looking for a metric hose. Out in the country, my money would be on the local tractor dealership. Call and ask if they sell metric fuel line by the foot. That's where I got mine, and it was about a foot. Cost me twelve bucks iirc.

There's several kinds of torque wrenches, so I can't say all will set the torque in reverse. But I'd say that any I'm aware of are made to torque left hand thread also. 

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I', thinking of replacing the headlights, as they aren't very good for night driving anymore, and Christmas is coming up :D  

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Northpole-Flood-Lights-Driving/dp/B01EJWB62U/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544845742&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=police+spotlight&psc=1

im thinking about these. Do you think  my battery would still work good with these? I think it said they draw 9 watts each.

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8 hours ago, Travis said:

I', thinking of replacing the headlights, as they aren't very good for night driving anymore, and Christmas is coming up   

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Northpole-Flood-Lights-Driving/dp/B01EJWB62U/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544845742&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=police+spotlight&psc=1

im thinking about these. Do you think  my battery would still work good with these? I think it said they draw 9 watts each.

Looks like the ones that you linked to, draw 3w per bulb ×6 =18w per light. That might be a stretch for your mule's electrical output. If you didn't use the lights for very long, maybe ten minutes or so at a time, while the engine is running. Just like you have to do, when you're using a winch, you might be okay. You'd definitely need to always use a battery maintainer type charger, when it's parked, to make sure the battery doesn't get too low. This is all based on two assumptions; that your mule doesn't have an alternator, and that you'd have these lights on a separate switch, with only occasional use. If they replace the existing headlights, you'd need to know how much power you're saving there. But I'll bet those old lights use plenty of watts.

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I'd try to back off the bleeder screw just a bit. Then try to gently pry my way in. If you can expose the brake shoes, you could possibly collapse the shoes. Of course this plan is dependent on it being the main brake, and not the emergency brake, being what's locked up. So I suppose that's the first order of business. We're gonna need more information. But I have to say, that plug is typically just a cover for the adjustment.

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Yes.

I took the cover off and fired it up, if you know how a centrifugal  clutch works, that what the pulleys is, you have one piece that moves out from underneath the metal housing and whenever it's at idle, it's rubbing against the housing, and when I gas it it moves from underneath the housing and stops, I also noticed the movement of it is rough and catchy not smooth like it should be.

IMG_20181228_174825_hdr.jpg

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The cheapest USED one i found was $250 on ebay. I found a guy selling a rebuild kit for it for $60. but that was for the transmission driven pulley.

Brand new oem is $390, thats almost what i have in the engine! lol.

 This diagram is a little confusing for me as to which parts go on what.... of course once i take it apart i can find out.... but looking at the parts i THINK  i'll need. I'll just wait until it blows up and replace it...

https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b2773f8700223e4791d4c/drive-converter

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There's not much to most centrifugal clutches. I believe it's pretty straightforward. Of course I've only seen the little ones, so yours could be more involved. But usually on something like this, the real difficulty is in fighting the new springs back on. Since they're new, and stiff, it can be a real problem. Sometimes there's special tools, and/or techniques that'll help. But it sounds like the kit is the way to go. Might end up being easy.

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Well, after doing some head and rear scratching and putting the pencil to it. I think im just going to put it back on and role with it. That rebuild kit i found is for the DRIVEN pulley on the transmission input shaft.

 And the parts total to rebuild the clutch nears $200, and a brand new one is $386 from Kawasaki........... thats almost more than i have in the engine!
 

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