Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

BeforeIMG_20180512_094554_hdr.thumb.jpg.d67cdf2bea16b6c07af5c3783b006064.jpg

Crank un-installedIMG_20180512_100522_hdr.thumb.jpg.687092d12daebf03c59f08011e6605a9.jpgIMG_20180512_105612_hdr.thumb.jpg.c50b17d97adfc169f2b4df6ce3f1739d.jpgPiston INSTALLED after honing.IMG_20180512_104525_hdr.thumb.jpg.76de4e56ad2c0afbf0aa245bd4ea222c.jpgCrank installed after honing.

 

Last pic is honed.IMG_20180512_101517_hdr.thumb.jpg.c9d0dc0dd9d90357f6309d6726b3a6b8.jpg

Kind of blurry, took it with one hand. It looks better in person. It may not be professional quality but im 99.99999999999999999% sure it will work.

Did better than I thought i would.

 

So now, only ONE more obstacle. the crankshaft axial play adjustment BUT

I need someones opinion ( i took the piston back out afterwards) not sure if you can see it, but in the picture with cylinder honed, it's almost right where the  glare from the light is, and on top of the cylinder directly across from the spot, it looks like the hone didn't get ruffed up.  any ideas? out of round cylinder, cylinder wore and needs bored??

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Taking it to the Ted's wednesday (tomorrow) they're going to mic it for free (yay!) and see what's going on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back from the machine shop.  Everything was perfect, so i went ahead and dropped 20 bucks for a professional honing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Need to get y'all a picture of the honing job  Ted's did. A work of art!

 When i went there, the machinist asked me what grit stones i was using, all i new it said was "medium grit" from the parts store. He said it was too rough for honing. and i might have broke or wore my rings pre maturely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need some ideas. the "left main bearing" in the crankcase, where the shaft sticks out, where the flywheel mounts, in the crankcase  it has a non replaceable bearing. If it is wore too much, you have to replace the entire crankcase. Im going to measure it later, (from a visual it doesn't look too wore) but i was wondering if i could buy a ball bearing and put in it IF it is wore past the service limit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Measured the bearing, its good. BUT, i need a new camshaft, the journal that rides in the crankcase cover is wore past the service limit. New is $122.00. I contacted a guy about used one to see if he measured the specs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took the camshaft and crankcase cover to the machine shop. (the cam journal and crankcase bearing for the cam were wore some) and the machinist said not to worry about it. still fits real tight, and has minimal play.

 And i too notice no score marks on the cam journal or inside the bearing. so i just saved $300 bucks.

:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only thing left to do is adjust the "Axial Play".  should i put the flywheel and coils on the crankshaft before i do it? Or not?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


YIPEEEEE!  I got the axial play figured out, and i know the correct shim size i need! woo hoo!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was going to order the shim from KPH, but they dont keep them in stock, so they would have to order it from Kawasaki, then when it arrives at their location (Michigan) they ship it to me. that would take 2-3 weeks. then a rare occasion happened, I had a thought.

 Pro Powersports here in Conroe  is a Kawasaki dealer, so they are going to special order the part for me, and can have it here within 10 days. 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

      • 2 replies
      • 312 views
    • Boring or Honing? What's the difference

      Well, I'm kicking myself sideways,backways and upways right now. I found out in the manual that your supposed to hone  the cylinder before re ringing the piston. So I gotta do that.  But what's the difference between boring the cylinder and honing it? Some people say boring it makes the cylinder bigger etc.  And some say honing does that.  But i think honing it is just to remove minor scratches, right?  And if i hone the cylinder, will that require oversize rings and piston?  Thanks, T.

      By Travis, in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

      • 11 replies
      • 485 views
    • 2016 Hisun 750 cab heater installed - $175

      I installed a Maradyne Mm-a1090002 cab-heater in my Hisun.  It was a fairly simple install with the most difficult part being to find the proper location for the heater body.  It has to be located so that the heater hose, etc is not blocked by OEM air filters, body frame, etc.  On my 750 Sector I determined that by centering the heater body a few inches directly below the gauge cluster worked perfectly.  The 5/8" heater hose comes out just to the right of the air filter tube. Since the firewall is plastic, I placed a large piece of stainless steel on the outside of the firewall for a backing plate.  I drilled a couple of 1" holes in the plastic firewall for my 5/8" heater hose and spliced them into the upper and lower radiator hoses. I spliced the upper heater hose into the upper radiator hose and the lower heater hose into the lower radiator hose.  No shutoffs, since I figured I could easily install them later if I need them.  I bought 8 ft of 5/8 heater hose and 8 - 1" hose clamps at the auto parts store.  Then I bought 2 pex tubing tees 1" X 3/4" X 1" at the hardware store to splice into the upper/lower 1" radiator hoses. The electrical is easy by running the black ground wire and red hot wire to the power supply (cigarette lighter) in the center dashboard.  By removing the power supply you won't have to drill large holes in the dash and you have the correct wiring needed to wire the heater switch.  I installed another power supply below the front of the bench seat in the middle.  I did that because it's easy for the driver to access and it was near the battery box for an easy installation. After I refilled the radiator overflow with anti-freeze, I pulled the Hisun's front wheels up on my trailer with the back wheels on the ground.  I did that so the radiator and overflow bottle were higher than the rest of the cooling system and any trapped air bubbles in the heater core would head for the overflow.   If that doesn't work, let it idle with the upper radiator hose clamped shut (needle nose vise grips) directing all the coolant towards the heater core to speed things up.  Remove the vise grips when the radiator fan turns on and then put them back on when it shuts off two or three times. I have about $175 invested for parts and heater for the project, and my heat laser reads 190 degrees when the heater is on.

      By Rangerider45, in Hisun UTV SxS Forum

        
      • 6 replies
      • 576 views
    • Driving with the hand brake on

      I went for a ride the other day, just an easy slow poke putt, but i didn't notice the hand brake was on, after a few miles, I noticed I was losing power, so I stepped on the gas, no difference, then I down shifted, OK power, what's that smell, ahh damn, brakes on. I had already had problems with this before in my '08 and added a sensor to tell me when the brake handle was NOT all the way down, so I decided that it was such a good idea, I needed to do it to my '15 also. It's a pretty easy thing to do & I recommend it to all. When I talked to Brandon at Joyner to order a new brake line, he said he had seen it many times. I took a handful of photos, added some text to explain them and put them in my google drive, here's the link if you would like to see what happened. The switch I used is a Hall Effect transistor, a reed switch could be used also, but I don't like them because I have had some bad luck with them and broke 2 of them before I went with the Hall Effect trasistor. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByQAhs0e-yF9cnM2RmlhQ3hzdjQ&usp=sharing

      By Kinarfi, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

      • 3 replies
      • 523 views
    • 2014 Kawasaki Mule Brake Adjustment - Hand Controls

      Unusual topic, I guess. I'm unable to walk and just had hand controls installed on my new Mule. I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the brakes (freeplay, hydraulics, etc) to increase "responsiveness" of brakes. I need them to engage more quickly. In other words, I have to really lay on the hand controls hard to get the brakes to activate. The brake pedal (via the hand control) has to move quite a distance before the brakes start to engage (and I am unable to lock them up). I guess I need to make the brakes more "touchy". The hand control system is far from perfect, but it's all I've got. Any thoughts? Thanks. KC

      By Legless, in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

      • 4 replies
      • 2,686 views


×