Quantcast
Jump to content

Shock Info!


rocmoc

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sorry can't help, have not had one off. Haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the front shocks.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

We just want to trick this one out:) We havent had any problems with shocks at all. We just want the fox shox on there cause it will make it even better than it already is:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

still trying to get time to weigh the trooper, noticed in the shoot out that they said the trooper weighed in at around 1800 lbs, dam this thing needs to go on a diet. I am thinking of running a 400 ontop of a 550 for the spring rates on the rear corners. Do not want to go much bigger on the springs or they will be to much for the shocks, Probably go up to 600, do not think i would go any higher than that. Let you know what i end up doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

still trying to get time to weigh the trooper, noticed in the shoot out that they said the trooper weighed in at around 1800 lbs, dam this thing needs to go on a diet. I am thinking of running a 400 ontop of a 550 for the spring rates on the rear corners. Do not want to go much bigger on the springs or they will be to much for the shocks, Probably go up to 600, do not think i would go any higher than that. Let you know what i end up doing.

The weight of a t2 is 1729lbs. I have been talking to this guy at fox to get some shox and he sends me measurements and is like will this work and I sent him all the dimensions for all the different shocks that are on the troopers and said i need you to tell me. I have no idea!!!! I need him to tell me what i need.. lol Does anyone know a fox rep that knows anything about a Joyner?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When ordering shocks you have to know the pivot points on the suspension, un suspended weight, what the shock ratio is holdong up the car on the arm. there are also some other stuff to consider. I amgoing to try and mount something this week-end. let you know how it works.

Im really trying with this guy...but if he doesnt help me soon im gonna call for someone else.. Im pretty sure he now has all the information he needs... but let me know how yours work out for ya! thanks Meg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The weight of a t2 is 1729lbs. I have been talking to this guy at fox to get some shox and he sends me measurements and is like will this work and I sent him all the dimensions for all the different shocks that are on the troopers and said i need you to tell me. I have no idea!!!! I need him to tell me what i need.. lol Does anyone know a fox rep that knows anything about a Joyner?

What is the weight of a T4?

Cinda

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will be posting more when I get home. I am in San Diego and met with Off Road Warehouse. There shock expert is down at the Race but I will be talking to him when he returns, I got a name. They did give me basics, Sway Away Shocks website has a tech section they use to size the shock springs. The Tech section goes into detail about the required weights, measurements & angles needed to get the correct spring rate. I will share more after I talk to the expert. I will also talk to him about valving/re-valving the shocks. Their shocks are cheaper online with free shipping at times then at their store locations. Shocks are shipped with the springs not installed as you have to setup sag/droop. I looked at both the Fox 2.0 & the 2.5. The 2.5 is huge! I am going to wait until after my call before I share what I was told so I can make sure the Expert agrees. Working on it!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a set of 10"350s, bought a set off 8" 300s. Installed them this morning. They hold the rear of the car up, but they are way to soft. I guess i will get a set off the 10" 500s and try them. The car allready fells alot better. I could run the collars down to get the ride height but it would not be right. The 10" 350s should work in the front.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got done changing the springs again. keep the 300s on and stuck a set of 600s with them, the suspension came alive, the car has a totaly different fell to it. I will get the limit straps on before thanksgiving and be able to test it. The car is almost the same height and i dont have the collars wound down as far as the stock shocks. Stock they were wound down 6 1/2" and these are wound down 4" so i think i am getting close. the car fells alot softer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just came in from my shop, the stock shocks have 4 1/2 of stroke, the new fox's have 8 1/2. I have to ad a limit spacer around the shaft to knock it down to 7 1/2 " of stroke. I have ended up with 14 " of travel in the back. the trailing arm needs to be dimpiled and the weld smothed when you are in full compresion to keep from rubbing the axle. Like i said before i have 300 over 600s in the back. I could not resit, i baught another set of shocks for the front to day. I am going to run 300 over 400s on the front. Shocks are around $200 apiece, I got one set for 189 apiece and the other set today for 175. Springs are around $75 apiece and it is two per shock. You could probably get 15" of travel, i just don't want to push my luck pulling the axle out. Don,t forget i have lowered the back diff so it is leting the wheels drop futher with out binding the cv's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just came in from my shop, the stock shocks have 4 1/2 of stroke, the new fox's have 8 1/2. I have to ad a limit spacer around the shaft to knock it down to 7 1/2 " of stroke. I have ended up with 14 " of travel in the back. the trailing arm needs to be dimpiled and the weld smothed when you are in full compresion to keep from rubbing the axle. Like i said before i have 300 over 600s in the back. I could not resit, i baught another set of shocks for the front to day. I am going to run 300 over 400s on the front. Shocks are around $200 apiece, I got one set for 189 apiece and the other set today for 175. Springs are around $75 apiece and it is two per shock. You could probably get 15" of travel, i just don't want to push my luck pulling the axle out. Don,t forget i have lowered the back diff so it is leting the wheels drop futher with out binding the cv's

I really have no knowledge about shocks..... which is bad... so sorry for the same repeated retardedness i keep asking. My uncle could modify the shocks to fit the trooper. I just can't get a fox guy that knows anything about them...which is sad cause they should be able to tell you what will fit on the your vehicle. Does anyone know a fox rep i could possible talk to that knows about them? We really want to put the fox shox on the t2 but even with giving this guy every possible measurement i can think of I get no response with something that will fit. Thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2.0 fox shock that has a 8.5" stroke will not fit in the front without limiting straps. It is about 2 1/2" to long. I am going to redo the frame where the upper shock mount is because i want to have as much travel as possible. I will have to cut the shock tower out and build a new one. Like i said the fox 8.5 in stroke shock will work in the front. I think you would want to run 2 8" springs instead of a 8 and 10" spring.

Anyway i took the trooper out last night in the rain with the wife. I can not tell you how big of a difference the rear shocks make. The back is so smooth and no bucking. It makes the front feel very rough. For clairaty the 8" spring is called a tender spring and the 10" is your primary spring. I am running a 300 on the tender spring, this is the spring that is holding you up when you are just crusing. I think a 350 would be better but the 300 works great. on a t-4 i would run a 400 because of obvious reasons. The 600 is the primary spring witch gets used when you get after it and start working the susp. As the coil over shocks compress through there stroke the tender spring will colaspe first because it is soffter. there is a collar on the shock that will only let the tender spring colaspe so much and than it starts working the primary spring wich is stiffer so it slows the susp. down. The valving that i have in the shock is 50-40. The collar that is holding the tender spring is 4 3/8 down from the colored part of the shock, i believe the primary is down 6". I will give you more info wen i get back home. The trooper feels very different when driving. Because the springs are soffter than stock with the tenders the car leans when you turn just like a race truck in the dirt. It is a good felling, you can tell you have more hook up in the dirt. I can not wait to get the front done. After market shocks should be the first thing you do on a trooper, it makes a huge difference, i have only done the back and the car is 100% better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I talked to Simon the shock expert as OffRoad Warehouse in San Diego today. We talked first about 2.0 vs 2.5 shock. I will summarize, Flatbed is right on mark. 2.5 is a little too big/harsh. The valving would have to be backed down on the damping too much. Therefore Fox 2.0 shocks are the way to go. Remote reservoir is recommended but increases cost. Double springs is the way to go but also increase cost. I will be getting all the required data together and Simon will run it in his computer program for spring rates and valving. I will not have this completed until after we return in Jan.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rocmoc, on the 2.0 shock that i used i put a bump stop on the shock shaft, 1 1/2" long to limit the compresion stroke, the bump stop is rubber so it will give alittle, don"t for get that i lowered my rear-end. I ended up with 14 1/2 inches of travel. I am curious what Simon is going to come up with. The front will end up with 14 1/2" travel also, i just have to rebuild the uper shock tower to get the shock to fit. Like you said the 2 spring setup is the way to go, very soft ride, made the wife very happy. If you take your time you can get a deal on the springs, same with the shocks. On the rear shock sticking the bump stop in keeps you from pulling the cv out on compression, you also have to clearance the trailing arm alittle, very easy. I cut the lower shock mount off and built a new one so i could get the shock shaft fully extended and not pull the cv out, don't need to run a limit strap on the fox shock in this application. I did not sycle the suspension with the tire on, i think if i hit hard enough i could get into the fender, stock i was getting around 8" of travel, so you can see the travel almost doubled. I am going to a wedding this weekend so it is going to be awhile before i get the front shocks in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There 8" shock is 1" longer in both the compresed and extended positions. The lower mount would have to be moved closer to the wheel, i think you would be giving up some of your compresion stroke. It would be interesting to know how much more this shock weighs. On the fox shocks they where alot lighter than stock. It does look like these shocks would work. don't know how well, but almost anything is better than stock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just finished my rear suspension revision. I'm not in a position to spend more money know on new shocks so I worked with what I have stock. I moved the upper shock mount about 1-1/4" to the front and 1/4" highter by extending the bracket. I moved the lower mount 4-7/8" towards the front and the same heigth above the trailing arm again by extending the bracket and reinforcing. My springs are adjusted so the top of the spring is aprox. 1" above the bottom of the adjustment threads, any lower then the spring bottoms before the shock and charged the shock with aprox. 175# of Argon ( I have argon but not nitrogen, should be about the same (your thoughts)). The dif is lowered so the large collars on the ends of the CV shaft is 1/16" above the frame. The input end of the dif is tipped up so to create a smooth arc in the CV drive shaft. This actually appears to lessen the flex angles from stock but I didn't measure.

When done the first thing I did was to push down on the rear to see how it felt. My first impression reminded me of when I was at the local motorcycle dealer and pushed the front suspension down on a 450 MXer. Soft and plush with a nice dampening feel. I thought It might be too soft but wanted to try it before judging. My wife and I took it for a ride going up and down a rocky medium sloped hill that was quite rocky with embedded rocks and holes maybe 6" deep and 2-4' across. Before the mods, this peice of trail slowed me down because It sort of bounced me around providing quite a rough ride. With the mods, I bearly felt it. The wheels stayed glued to the ground and control was much much better. Both my wife and I were suprisingly impressed. It was like a lemo. I then took it over a small jump and it landed with suspension room to spare ann no bounce back at all. It just stuck the landing. It seems to be willing to take harder hits ok although I havn't done woopty doos which is my goal, to ride over them smoothly at speed.

After the test I increased the shock charge to 245#. This firmed up the the rear considerably and provided about an aditional 1-1/4" of clearance with stock tires. What I thinking about doing is to go to about a 2-3" longer same rate spring (aprox 500# per inch). This way I think I'll be able to have a soft plush ride with the 245# charge and yet be able to firm it up for trail blasting (my wife won't go here). I have put radial roller thrust bearing adjusters with O-rig dust seals on my shocks so I can easily adjust them on the trail. I can mow adjust them by hand without tools. Eventially I may put small gear drives on them so I can adjust them on the fly from the dash. That sounds exciting to me. I also was going to switch to 20 weight shock oil (stock is about 10) but it worked so good that I'm going to wait and see.

Pics to follow shortly.

Your thoughts always welcome.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SwampTrapper
      This is my first buggy. I rode a Arctic Cat 500 manual for 19 years. My question is: with the engine running in Park and you rev the engine is the drive belt engaged and turning 🤷
    • By mcraigchr
      I realize that many of you do not have diesel machines.  For those that do, this is for you:
      Just wanted to post my experience this past week.  Here in Texas, we had pretty good dip in temps.  For 4 days it did not get above 25.  At night, it was single digits or close to it.  I always put Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in the storage tank (30 gallon).  And up until this tank I was using Power Service (white bottle) for anti-gel.  Never had an issue.
      This tank, however, I switched to Stabil All season (anti gel).  It is supposed to good down to -40.  Zap.  That is a big fat lie.  I put in twice the amount called for in the instructions.  Result was less than optimal.  I drove the SxS 100 feet (to go get the mail) and it died.  I looked at the fuel bowl and it was a cloudy, wax substance.  So, the Stabil did not work.  That said, I'm not sure that I ever tested the Power Service in the same manner.  So I am not saying that one is better than the other.
      What are your experiences?  Are these products inferior?  What do you folks in the northern states / Canada use?  Am I missing something?
      CC
    • By bfisherman11
      In 2016 I bought a midsized Ranger ETX. I don't recall exactly my out the door price but it was probably less than 8k. I've used it as a work machine around our home and 38acres. It's always run great and requires little maintenance. Still running strong. 
      So, for no reason I checked out a local dealer. I like the midsized UTVs so that's where I started. I was shocked the cheapest 570 I saw was a shade under 18k. I know an ETX Ranger was a budget SxS but wow, that's a 10k jump. When I was shopping back in '16 I think a 570 was about 1k more than my ETX.
      Well I guess I will be running this ETX till it breaks.
      Anyhow, I'm a big fan of the Rangers. When the time comes I'll be back but I had no idea. I haven't posted in a while. The ETX must not have sold a lot because you don't see many things posted. Hope other ETX owners had the same reliability I have had. I'm guessing if a cheap Ranger series like mine has been reliable then the guys with bigger ones are enjoying those as well.
      So, great machines, probably priced per the market but I had no idea. Ha
       
    • By Mike Turner
      After 5 years my 2016,  650LandMaster is needing normal wear and tear service. But I can’t find a dealer service center to perform any of the work because I didn’t purchase the UTV from them. “I’m not going to help you” I’m told, “find someone else”. And apparently there’s not a damn thing I can do about it. 
    • By Dreadnought
      I've searched the forum but don't think I found a solution.
      I just bought a used 2022 UT 400 with only 31 miles on it. Often I have to rev the motor just a little to get it to shift into forward or reverse. The original owner told me about this and said it needed the cable adjustment that you so often read about. It also jumped out of gear a few times and did grind a little but not very often and only under heavy load like going up a steep dirt road. After reading lots of posts I figured it must be the short shifter throw so I did the shifter extension modification. It didn't help at all. I thought, should I increase the idle speed? The tach reads about 1600 rpm at idle but it doesn't sound that fast to me. It doesn't seem like cable adjustment because it clicks right in gear with just a few more revs. Any ideas?
      Thanks for any wisdom.
       




×
×
  • Create New...