Does anybody know where to get one of these bulbs?
It is the one that lights up when the park brake is applied. Same as the one that lights up when the engine is over temperature.
I have checked several places locally without success.
I have a 2016 Cub Cadet Challenger 700 that has ~40-50 miles on it,, and similar hours. It had the Brake recall completed in summer of 2017 and in summer of 2018 after sitting for a month of non use the brake pedal pressure became soft and would not stop quickly as normal. I took it to the dealer and they "fixed" it and it worked fine for the past year but again this past weekend I took it out after not using it for 5 weeks and the pedal is soft again and takes forever to stop. I plan to call me dealer again to see if they will fix again but I am wondering if anyone else has seen this and if anyone knows what it could be. No visible leaks and machine is not worked hard. I use it to drive around my property.
I recently got a 2006 Joyner 650cc Commando. It was not running when i got it.
I put a new fuel pump and alternator and is up and running.
My problem is when I originally got it started it seemed I didn't have 1st gear. I was able to get it moving from 2nd and was sure I got it into 3rd.
In my process of diagnosing the first gear issue and I realize I have first gear because it is where I thought 3rd gear was. But now I don't seem to have 3rd or 4th gear.
The shifter itself seems sloppy and needs a little rehab if that is possible. Replacement available?
Cables are worn so I don't know if they have too much play to properly shift. Can't seem to find any cables available to replace.
Can someone tell me which cable should be first and second and 3rd and 4th? One is black and the other is red.
Ultimately it may be a transmission problem internally.
As long as I have 1st and 2nd the machine will work for me going through the woods picking up wood.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
New to this if you can't tell.
It's been leaking VERY slowly over the past couple years, just had to add a minute amount of brake fluid every few months. Now i have to i add about 3/4 of a cup every 5 days.
i took the rear tire off, where it is leaking from, cleaned up the outside of the drum and it looks like the fluid is leaking from where the "outer" drum meats the inner drum, #41038. guessing its the brake cylinder inside..... any other thoughts. I made sure the brake line is tight too.
By Robynne Catheron
New-to-me 2012 CC Volunteer throttle cable broke during the wicked cold snap we had a few weeks ago (upstate NY). It was already a bit sticky, but at least it was usable.
Is it possible to replace it myself, or must I pay to have it hauled 50 miles to the nearest shop? I can access both ends, but the majority of it is pretty buried from the top and underneath.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Similar Tagged Content
By Roy Holton
Hi, I'm new at this so please bear with me. I have a 1993 Kawasaki 500 mule KAF300B and am in need of the molded plastic cover for the shift lever, part # 14024 - 1985. Anyone know where I might find this
part (New or Used), so far I've had zero luck. Thanks Roy
2003 Mule 3000 idles fine and runs fine once in motion, but sputters and tries to die at takeoff. It will idle fine when put in gear, but as soon as I press on the accelerator it will die if I don’t choke it. The choke doesn’t seem to be reacting as quickly as before either- it takes a few seconds at full choke for the rpms to increase. Once in motion, it runs fine again. I just rebuilt the carb, new air and fuel filters, and battery. Any suggestions?
Just bought a well used 2500 with 6,800 hours on the clock. Guy said it had a bad engine but it did run and drive when I tested it and it billowed white smoke. I found oil in the water and a disconnected fan switch. A compression test yielded 160 psi in one cylinder and 240 psi in the other. I put 15 psi in the cooling system and it dropped to zero in 30 seconds. I removed the spark plugs and put 100 psi of air into each spark plug hole and coolant few out of the uncapped radiator. So I figured I had two bad head gaskets.
I took the heads of the engine and found two bad head gaskets. Cleaned them up, checked for cracks, found none and reassembled with new genuine Kawasaki head gaskets. Started engine and it ran well but smoked constantly at idle and at full throttle. Comprression test now yielded 240 psi and 245 psi which is higher than I have ever seen in any gasoline engine I have ever tested. I put 100 psi into each spark plug hole and no water or air bubbled out of the open radiator cap. When I put 15 psi into the cooling system it held pressure. Also fixed the fan switch connection and installed a digital temperature guage so I know exactly what temperature the engine is seeing and that the thermostat and cooling system is functioning properly.
The engine smokes like it is worn out and needs overbored but with those great compression numbers it is had to believe. I am ready to pull the engine and tear it down but thought I would post to this forum before I did.
This is my first Mule. I only paid $800 for it and might decide to just part it out depending what I find inside the engine. Brakes are good, trans works fine and there is almost no rust anywhere.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Hello. I have 2006 kawasaki mule 3010 trans 4x4 that has the drivers side wheel turning inwards while the passenger side is straight. What would cause this to happen and what would you suggest to repair. Thanks. Adjusted the tie rods, but wont fix this.