Quantcast
Jump to content

Williamson

1100cc Chery Engine - Need Help

Recommended Posts

First I’m going to start off by telling you how the problem started. 

I have a XY Ground Pounder with the 1100cc Chery Engine; I sunk it in a mud hole and had water up middle ways of the muffler; about 10 seconds of being stuck and hitting the gas all of a sudden the motor started making a tapping noise that sounded like it was coming from the head (the buggy never died while I was stuck on the mud hole). I finally got pulled out and had to proceed to drive the buggy out the rest of the trail back to my truck (buggy still making the tapping sound and I lost about half of my power and had to keep the buggy going at around 4,500RPMS).

I got the buggy home and first thing I drained the oil and dropped the pan to find water, dirt and metal shaving in the oil. I proceeded to check the rod bearings and mains; they had very little play but had a lot of wear; I also took the head off and inspected everything and took the pistons out everything looked fine up top. So I ordered a new crank, main bearings, rod bearings, head gasket and bolts; after waiting for a month for the parts to come in I finally got the block and everything clean and put the new parts in and torqued to spec. I got it all put back together and new fluids, plugs and filter put back in and everything aligned and put back in time while TDC. I started the buggy and instantly it’s still doing the same thing; so I took the head off and inspected the springs and valves but everything seems to be good. I also did a compression test on each cylinder with great readings. 

Has anyone ever had the same problem or know anything?

 

Thanks for taking your time to read. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


What does your camshaft look like? Does it have hydraulic lifters?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes; the 1100cc Joyner’s have the same motor. I know the problem is probably in the head but I’m not seeing anything. A new complete head is $450 from China; and that’s not including shipping.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hydraulic lifters use oil pressure, and should be full of oil to perform properly. It's possible water or dirt got in them and that's what is clacking/causing them to clack.

I know when cars get old and start to click is usually due to the lifters not holding good hydraulic pressure.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Travis.  Check valve lifter to camshaft clearances with the valve for the cylinder closed (cam lobe not in contact with the lifter).   Dirt may have worked its way into the lifter.  I'm not sure if this engine has hydraulic lifters (I don't know).  If they do, I don't see where shims are needed to adjust clearances.  But a lifter could be binding due to dirt whether a solid or hydraulic lifter.  Were you able to determine where the metal shavings came from?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Metal shavings came from the rod bearings; everything below is new besides pistons and rings which are in great condition. Attached are some pics. The valves seem to open all the way a close all the way too.

1DF0A8FB-7C54-49F1-A863-7EA17DE26361.jpeg

D33E0963-0705-4C47-8F61-D60C60B45C03.jpeg

4B1C220C-C8D6-44B8-AC5D-6311634A0CB4.jpeg

44F80563-F383-4B01-948A-7900332E9687.jpeg

69AE7DBA-EE2C-42E0-887D-5DC7FEF16D38.jpeg

72FB4948-AB25-450F-B84A-06F9F2844EF0.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would still check the valve clearances (cam to lifter clearance).  Can't really tell clearances by looking at the valves.  Lacking any other info that might say otherwise, the intake is 0.18mm/0.007"±0.05mm/0.0019", exhaust 0.25mm/0.0098"±0.05mm/0.0019".  Excessive clearances will cause the cam lobe to "slap" against the lifter causing the clicking/clacking noise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ll have to  check them tomorrow. Would that cause it to loose a lot of power? If it was off by a little.

 

DE6435BE-E9F4-461B-A364-4E0F0229B8C2.jpeg

6BF58185-1495-4F5C-BB3D-6C3AFF53FB5F.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My theoretical analysis of incorrect valve gap.  I wouldn't say a lot of power if one cylinder, but more pronounced if on all cylinders.  A larger than normal gap will cause the intake valve to open late and close early.  The compression will be a little lower (less fuel/air mixture gets into the cylinder on the intake stoke) and cause some loss of power.  Does the engine othewise runs smooth (not missing)?  Your compression should be near 130 psi at sea level (based upon 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure and a 9.5 compression ratio minus a few pounds due to other factors).

A larger than normal gap on the exhaust valve will also cause it to open late and close early which, in turn, keeps more burned fuel in the cylinder on the exhaust stoke, prevernting a full charge of fresh fuel/air mixture from being fully injested into the cylinder on the intake stroke.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Texjpr
      2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass  switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
    • By Mikey
      I would like to install a water to air cab heater in my 2500 but cannot see how to tap into the cooling system so the heater will have flow from the engine water pump except when the thermostat is open. Does anybody know if the factory heater has some kind of thermostat adapter that lets hot water circulate through the engine and the cab heater core before the thermostat opens?  Unless I can solve this water flow problem it seem pointless to install a cab heater if it will just have intermittent water flow when the thermostat is open.
      I did buy a $66 Mr. Heater MH4GC Golf Cart Propane Heater on Amazon but it is really hard to find a place to install it that will be convenient when two or especially three people are in the seat. Decided it was too much a fire hazard because it would be too close to the riders and if there was a gasoline leak it would likely ignite the fumes.  Also it didn't really put out much heat. So I returned it.
      The only other idea I had was doing something with an exhaust heat air to air system like the Volkswagon Bugs were in the 60's but this has many challenges too.
      If I could just figure out a suitable water flow path I would be good to go. I do know where there is a Mule 2500 with a factory heater but I won't be back that way to see it 650 miles away until next summer. If anybody has one and could post some photos of the heater water connections to the engine, that would be wonderful.
      Many thanks, Mike
    • By kandlinaz
      Well, after a bad experience with repairs to our Trooper, Lloyd tore into the engine himself. We originally wanted to save time by hiring the engine rebuild out, but that bit us square in the butt. Remember the discussion about Silverbullet motorsports in Yuma??
      Stay tuned....we'll let you know what happens. 
      Has anyone rebuilt the engine in these troopers?
    • By Mikey
      Does anybody know if a kawasaki FD440V engine will interchange with an FD620D? It looks like the same engine from the outside but has an internal governer which you would not need to connect and a different crank output side so maybe you could swap cranks or have the FD440V splined at a machine shop. It is 15HP instead of 20 HP  which isn't great but is probably plenty of power for most applications, so I am assuming it has a different bore size but you can pick them up for cheap. I don't need an engine now but would like to have a spare on the shelf. The FD440V is used in John Deere rider mowers model LX178.
       
      Here is an example of one on Ebay with decent pics:
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE-LX178-KAWASAKI-FD440V-LIQUID-COOLED-VTWIN-ENGINE-block-for-parts/173956050466?hash=item288096ae22:g:CLkAAOSwTaxdIJ3g 
    • By johnpeter
      Polaris RZR Ranger 800 Engine Rebuild Service S crew 4 Xp Motor 700 On Ebay
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-RZR-Ranger-800-Engine-Rebuild-Service-S-crew-4-Xp-Motor-700/153684580535?



×
×
  • Create New...