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Mule Not Charging still after new Regulator

Pamm r

By Pamm r
in Kawasaki UTV SxS Forum

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Pamm r Apprentice

Pamm r

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I had a guy come over and help as I don't know much about digital meters.  My stator seems to be doing ok.  Did a wire test from stator plug all the way to the regulator and then to battery.  No broken wires.  So it seems to be that I received a bad DOA regulator that I had ordered in so I will send it back and reorder then see

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Pamm r Apprentice

Pamm r

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UPDATE....   Well after this sites help and two different Regulators because the first one was D.O,A. the second one made it charge. I did find out that 610 Mule must use regulator part # 21066-0039 ONLY. My unit only uses 4 of the 5 pins in the connector going to the regulator. The middle pin has no wires to it. THANKS,.

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Pamm r Apprentice

Pamm r

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On 12/19/2019 at 9:26 AM, dalem said:

I'm having the same problem on a Mule 600 two regulators and still not charging. My stator checks ok. Where did you get your regulator? Was it an aftermarket or Kawasaki OEM part?

i have tried after market  and OEM , and both only lasted for about 30 mins.  And my stator checks ok too.  The guy helping me did a continuity check from the stator plug to the plug that plugs into the regulator and both those wires were fine and the other two wires goes from regulator plug to the battery.  All wires are good.

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Ben1098 Enthusiast

Ben1098

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you most likely  have an intermittent connection between reg and battery.  the reg can only handle a few open full load dumps before the electronics die.   retest connections to battery and ign sw (key ON).

old trick.......jumper in second wire in parallel with the 3 wires mentioned......if lives longer than 30 min.....you won...but need to find the bad connection

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dalem Rookie

dalem

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After trying everything possible, including replacing the wiring harness (used one) I replaced the regulator with a Kawasaki OEM part $131 not cheap but it's charging now. Those  cheap aftermarket regulators  are not compatible with Kawasaki's electrical system. I tried three and none of those worked. I have a 98 Honda 300 4 wheeler and I put an aftermarket regulator on it about  five years ago and it still works OK.  

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Travis Grand Master

Travis

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1 minute ago, dalem said:

After trying everything possible, including replacing the wiring harness (used one) I replaced the regulator with a Kawasaki OEM part $131 not cheap but it's charging now. Those  cheap aftermarket regulators  are not compatible with Kawasaki's electrical system. I tried three and none of those worked. I have a 98 Honda 300 4 wheeler and I put an aftermarket regulator on it about  five years ago and it still works OK.  

Yeeeeeeeow! $131!!

I just paid $75 for mine

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Ben1098 Enthusiast

Ben1098

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Your Reg/Rect should have 5 wires. 

2 are AC input from stator........both G/W.....measure resistance (at R/R connector) of stator windings=.3 ohm ish----depends on meter.

Next perform a stator output load test....connect a 40W incandescent to the same wires at the R/R connector....start motor....should glow dim then brighter with higher RPMs.....don't rev until bulb burns out........shut engine down.

The next 3 tests check the current carrying capacity of the wires/connections.  A "load test" rather than a meter test will better identify the fault.  The load is a 12V headlight bulb with a rated current draw of 5 plus Amps......85/85W motorcycle headlight bulb works great.  Put 2 leads on the good filament terminals.  Test by connecting to the UTV battery.....note brightness.  Leave NEG (-) wire clipped to battery NEG (-) post for next 2 tests.

BR wire is dead with KEY OFF and 12V with KEY ON......might notice a slight dimming due to extra wire and fuse resistance in the harness.

WHT wire has only the fuse back to POS (+) battery post.......bulb should burn slightly brighter....no run to the IGN SW.

BLK/YEL is ground.......frame and battery (-) post.  SO REMOVE BULB CLIP FROM NEG AND CLIP TO POS POST.  Now the test is looking for a path back to the NEG post.  Touch NEG Post....bright.  Touch frame....bright.  Touch starter motor case....bright.  Touch the engine case....bright.  Touch WHT wire terminal in R/R connector...........BRIGHT.

Most common failure is the BLK/YEL ground to harness.....bullet connector.  The starter current GND wire (heavy) suffers from electro corrosion......i.e. the steel bolt in the AL case  at starter mount.

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Pamm r Apprentice

Pamm r

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On 2/27/2020 at 11:00 PM, dalem said:

After trying everything possible, including replacing the wiring harness (used one) I replaced the regulator with a Kawasaki OEM part $131 not cheap but it's charging now. Those  cheap aftermarket regulators  are not compatible with Kawasaki's electrical system. I tried three and none of those worked. I have a 98 Honda 300 4 wheeler and I put an aftermarket regulator on it about  five years ago and it still works OK.  

Glad you got it fixed, it did mine too.

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