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Travis

Ol' Reliable ain't charging

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The 550 isn't showing that it is charging the battery. I've noticed its been sluggish starting.

 I tested DC at the battery, 11.35 when not running, 11.35 when running.

I'm looking through the shop manual at the diagnostic tests to narrow it down. And check all connections.

 When i took the engine out i had to cut the alternator wires, but i reconnected them with crimp connectors and shrink tube... maybe its corroded.

 

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Connections look good, I printed out the troubleshooting, it says most have to be done with  a fully charged battery , so I'm charging it.

I did a resistance test on the alternator, the spec is between 0.2 and 0.4 

 I was getting like 23.45  and 22.5.........sooo we'll see. It is 19 years old.....

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5 minutes ago, Jeremy .... said:

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new model

sure!

I'f  you're paying! lol

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I paid just over $7000 for my 2006 610 when it was new, my new pro mx was just over $10,000 and I think it was worth it, but I also sold the 2006 for $2700.  The largest dealers have the bigger discounts

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The alternator is working correctly, 43 volts on both wires which is Spec'd.

So I'm going to test the rectifier / regulator next.

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Here is the 2 pages of regulator checking. figured i post them up so you can see what i need to do in case i have any questions.

MULEVOLTAGE.jpg

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TRY THIS TEST

connect a 40W light bulb (incandescent...not LED) across the output legs of the alt.....unloaded voltage might be 40 Vac BUT if windings have bad connections, the output voltage will be well below the 15Vac needed to forward bias the rectifier diodes......  .5 to .6 Vdc PLUS the battery voltage.  if alt output is OK, the bulb should glow dimly and get brighter as RPM is increased.  confirm alt output good before rectifier testing.

print from manual too small to read....but gathered you have a single phase (2 wire.....A1 and A2).  If replying back also show the schematic for the alt. windings and the .3-.4 ohm winding resistance...go back to the cut crimp (very bad idea on high current applications.....solder back in place.

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