Quantcast
Jump to content

David Cleghorn

Hisun strike 250 transmission

Recommended Posts

Hi, I've just acquired a used strike 250, 2015 model, I've noticed in low range it sounds like something is catching/rubbing it's not a constant noise more like something catching on a rotation however it's fine in high range, has anyone else encountered this issue and is it an easy ish fix?

Thanks

 

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Keeping safety in mind. I'd put it up on jack stands, then crawl underneath and try to pinpoint the noise. Try it while it's not running first. It'll be easier to find the noise. If that doesn't work, then try it again while it's running. 

If it's in the transmission, it could be a pin, or something similar striking the side of the case, with every rotation. Probably an easy fix. But getting to it would be the hard part.

It might be something altogether different. But getting it up in the air would be where I'd start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you, I'll give that a try today, nothing appears to be easy on these utv's apart from putting fuel in and air in the tyres everything else seems to be a major strip down 🤦

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When it's in the air, the wheels will spin anytime it's running in gear. Just make sure the wheels are fully stopped before you change gears from hi/lo. I'm assuming that it doesn't have a clutch. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's right no clutch on these CVT, just couldn't understand why it only does it in low range I'm not up on gearboxes but I'm assuming that the lay shafts spin individually hence only noisey in low range

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I'm not familiar with those machines. But if you get close to the noise, you can usually pinpoint the cause. Hopefully its external. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like it internal, it only does it in low range it's fine in high range and reverse, there isn't much to look at in the parts diagram of the transmission but I'm guessing possibly a bent lay shaft maybe from being forced into low range from high whilst still moving, looks like engine out and a gearbox rebuild 🙈

Thanks again for your help

 

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear that, we were hoping for a simple fix. Hopefully there's parts available for your model. Being a 2015, you should be okay. 

I hope you'll consider documenting this process. Then sharing it with us, along with a few pictures. Aside from the obvious entertainment value. It also helps to create permanent, searchable data for others who face that same situation in the future.

 Just think about how helpful your own search would've been. If you'd have found the cause, and the fix, already documented!

If you run into problems along the way. We'll be here to try to help any way we can. Good luck!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm afraid it will be some time in the distant future before I get around to this but when I do I will post as much as possible about it, back to the 4 zinger for the kids till then😊 although my 11 year old has informed me now she can drive she wants a range rover for her 17th birthday🤦😁

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I fully understand that sometimes there's other priorities. No project needs to be hurried anyway.  Most of yours will be time spent in labor. 

If you decide to proceed, and just do it a little at a time. Please remember that its  very  easy to forget what went where. So label as much as possible, and put the bolts back in their holes wherever possible. Trust me, I've btdt, and this lesson was learned the hard way. 

On the bright side; at least your 11 year old gave you six years to save up! If your financial situation is anything like most. Then it'll take most of that lol. Maybe you could interest her in a nice jeep instead?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Thanks, there doesn't appear to be that much in the gearbox regarding parts so I'll contact the dealers tomorrow and find  out how much for all of it and availability, if it's not rediculessly  expensive I'll order it and replace it all at the same time, as you say the time is in getting the engine out, I just hadn't planned on having to do a major strip down so soon, my own fault I didn't drive the buggy the seller drove it around I stood and watched and you can only hear the noise while you're sat in it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like one of those things that you learn the hard way. But on the bright side, it's learned now. When I'm doing a test drive, I usually drive it like I stole it. So I know its limitations, and what it's capable of. 

I'll bet there's a few parts that are pressed on, in that assembly. Since you've got time, you might want to find out exactly what you're dealing with, before you start. It probably isn't anything that will actually require a total rebuild. 

My guess would be a keeper, or pin of some sort has come loose. That's the most common source of this type of internal noise. Although it could just as easily be a bearing. You might need a good automotive machine shop to complete the work. So it'd be good to know this beforehand. So you can price out the machine work between the machine shop, or the dealership mechanic. And to also determine if the machine shop can accept these tiny parts.

I think you'll find that hardened gears are price prohibitive, and best reused. And are likely undamaged in the slightest. You'll need bearings, and seals though. As well as the damaged part of course. But I don't think that I'd pre purchase the whole thing just yet.

That money would probably better spent on new belts, hoses, and filters.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the only schematic I can find and it strangely only shows one needle bearing nothing in the side cases! The idea of buying everything is purely because of the time it takes to get the parts once the engine is out and stripped I would like to have it back together and back in as quickly as possible before my memory of taking it apart stars to fail 😊

Screenshot_20200607-203258.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might change your mind once you price it out. But I still think that it'll just be a pin. Or a keeper of some sort has slipped off. Be a shame to spend $300.00 only to need a new pin, and circlip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would open it up, TAKE GOOD PICTURES, heck, even a short video of everything, if it turns out to be what kenfain said, a pin, or keeper, $5-10 fix possibly.

Order a new one if you want, install it,, off you go.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Thanks Travis, I've spent the last few hours looking at all the schematics available about the strike to work out the easiest way to remove the engine without doing a major strip down, I think I have worked it out and I have a  few days spare this week to pull it out, I agree with kenfain completely it would be a waste of money buying everything for the sake of something small but my fear is that once it's out and stripped I could be waiting week's for the parts, when you look at the position of these engines it's quite daunting to imagine having to remove one 🙈

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, Travis said:

I would open it up, TAKE GOOD PICTURES, heck, even a short video of everything, if it turns out to be what kenfain said, a pin, or keeper, $5-10 fix possibly.

Order a new one if you want, install it,, off you go.

I base  my opinion on the fact that everything is otherwise working properly. With only a little internal noise. I just can't see it being anything serious. Left alone for awhile though, and it could cause other problems. But I'm neither an expert nor a mechanic. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, David Cleghorn said:

Thanks Travis, I've spent the last few hours looking at all the schematics available about the strike to work out the easiest way to remove the engine without doing a major strip down, I think I have worked it out and I have a  few days spare this week to pull it out, I agree with kenfain completely it would be a waste of money buying everything for the sake of something small but my fear is that once it's out and stripped I could be waiting week's for the parts, when you look at the position of these engines it's quite daunting to imagine having to remove one 🙈

It sounds like you're talking about obstructions like maybe the roll cage in the way? On some buggies, just like on some cars. The engine is removed from the bottom. Either way, I'd fully expect that the engine could be removed as an entire single piece. Because I guarantee that's how it went in. Might have to remove the complete powertrain as one piece. But that's even better!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As best I can tell the engine and gearbox/power train are a complete unit  but everything is so buried on these there isn't much to see after looking at all the diagrams I can find I feel more at ease about removing the engine it's not that I'm not mechanically minded it's more of another long winded project I could have done without but I'll start to tackle it hopefully on Wednesday I have to source and replace the electric motor for my briquette machine before this it compresses saw dust into small logs for our heating boiler, there's always something 🤷😁

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, David Cleghorn said:

As best I can tell the engine and gearbox/power train are a complete unit  but everything is so buried on these there isn't much to see after looking at all the diagrams I can find I feel more at ease about removing the engine it's not that I'm not mechanically minded it's more of another long winded project I could have done without but I'll start to tackle it hopefully on Wednesday I have to source and replace the electric motor for my briquette machine before this it compresses saw dust into small logs for our heating boiler, there's always something 🤷😁

When dealing with electric motors, I prefer to use an electric motor shop. Unless its ridiculously cheap, and a guaranteed fit. I'll have it fixed. Motors are typically easy to fix, and the cost is usually cheaper than new. And it's a guaranteed fit everytime. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Van Fleming
      My new Buck 400 EFI has to rev over 4,000 RPM before it moves and seems to be slipping when placed under a load. Is this normal?
    • By Quade
      This is my first UTV and it ran great the first 500 miles. Then it slowly got harder and harder to start. Now I have to keep giving it gas when I first start it for about 1 minute until it will idle by itself. This past weekend I took it on the trail and it died 15 minutes into the ride and lost all spark. I got towed home and tried to see if I had spark the next morning which I did and it started but died 10 minutes later. Anyone have any ideas what I should do or check? Anything would help thank you!
    • By Overlander
      After turning 2 batteries to water over last winter, I found that my digital dash display is staying on with the key removed. I was originally thinking the issue originated from the ignition cylinder but I'm now thinking its the ECU controller box under the hood. One of the unserviceable relays is making a weird sound when I remove the key. I have both batteries up to full charge and discovered the display issue last week when I saw the lights on in the dark.. Do any of you have any input on this issue? Ignition or controller.. Any help before just ordering parts would be helpful  The controller is $140  not sure on the ignition.. Thanks in advance..
    • By Scott Meszaros
      good morning, new to this site...got a question......i have a 2015 kaw mule with the soft top enclosure........doors with zipper windows, plastic windshield.........i want to tow the thing on a trailer up to our cabin, about 340 miles of mostly interstate driving......the instructions for the top say "remove for towing or use enclosed trailer"..........removing would be a pain, and i don't have an enclosed trailer..............anyone have another solution?.........how much will it screw it up if i tow as is?.....should i put a plastic tarp over the thing and secure the tarp to the trailer?......any suggestions would be helpful.....thank you in advance
    • By johnpeter
      2015 Polaris RZR S 900 On Ebay
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-Polaris-RZR-S-900/184290584452?



×
×
  • Create New...