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Posts posted by 01rancher375
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Good to hear banging your knees all day takes the fun out quick.any pics of turbo setup
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Sorry it took so long to reply haven’t used the app much. But I ran into needing a new alternator this weekend and came here for advice. Any other options besides the 170$ from silverbullet
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I am an idiot I had it on backwards forget all I said
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So I ordered a new cv axle for my trooper t2 1100 from Joyner they send me a completely different. Axle different color, diameter and length. It's atleast an inch longer than the one that came off it
I've spoke with them multiple times on the phone. And email did not reply or call after leaving multiple messages. There telling my they change design and that I have to compress it for it to fit. Well it won't compress 3" also I order the wheel seal and as noted in the previous post 1 wheel seal is the wrong size so I tell them the correct dimension like mentioned before and they still sent me the wrong one. Are any of the parts replaceable. I'm pissed
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How to change the Rear Wheel Bearings - By Rocmoc.
You will need -
Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/ & http://www.jmcmotors.us/ Roller bearings
Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, [url=]http://www.motionind...LocationsMI.jsp[/url] NOTE: Page 198 of the 2009 manual, page 183 of the 2008 manual,
says I need #3(03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871-FB65X42X8 Seal FB65X42X8) and #32 (03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871- FB65X45X8 Seal FB65X45X8) seals, but I know that the # 3 seals actually needs to be 62X42X8
Large socket set to break the nut loosen the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great.
C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick.
Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal.
Remove the wheel/tire.
Remove the cotter key.
Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning.
Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts.
Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom.
Remove the bearing housing.
Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.
Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing.
Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.
Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before.
Slide the bearing out.
CLEAN!
That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement.
Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years.
If you see anything that needs correction, please post it as a reply. I'll take note, fix, and delete your post.
Are the parts for the rear like bearings and seals the same for the front wheel bearings? And also are the wheel seals cross refrencable to a part you can get at the auto parts store?
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I'm curious if it is possible to put a snorkel on my trooper that is also turboed or is there any problem areas that come up when getting wet like electrical parts. Just a random thought.
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Thank you I guess I'll just order a new 1 any idea on price ranges
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So I bought the tilt steering kit you suggested but when taking the old column out I found that there is a small amount of adjustment that can be made with the stock one that is on it. And I was able to tilt it up enough that my knees no longer touch the steering wheel. That made my day.
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I doubt it..... probably just gonna have to order an axle..
It looks like it's the outer front right side that is broken it just spins inside the boot. The actual axle isn't snapped can these be rebuilt and is it hard to do? Thank you for your help
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Is there a known front cv axle assembly part number that can be bought at local parts store. I just discovered a broken 1
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For 09 trooper t2 1100
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What year and model is that it looks sick. I just got 09 trooper t2 1100 turbo on 32" and some custom fabricating. I have almost no room to steer my knees rub the wheel while driving. So power steering and wheel tilt would be ideal. I just don't know what all I will need to install. Any info you have would be awesome.
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This is my 09 trooper t2 1100 turbo 5 speed 4x4 on 32" mud tires and I don't have any issue besides turning difficulties it needs power steering but I can drift with these no problem
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Joyner trooper electric power steering for $200..
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
Posted
I’m not sure the guy I bought it from said that it’s safe at 7lb of boost and not to go higher. He was sappose to give me the tuner for it also but I can’t get ahold of him now
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