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  1. Today
  2. If you plan on keeping your UTV past 5 years then buy a well known brand. Do not buy from Home Depot and others that sell no name or unknown name UTV's. Why, because they do not stock parts past about 5 years. If you look closely they source cheaper parts from several manufacturers. Stating "assembled in the USA" means only the parts have been bolted together. I had a serious problem after 5 years the gas shocks lost their gas on two. Steering/handling so bad you could not use it. No where could you find shocks that fit the mounts. I sold it at a huge loss. Now with a new Polaris I can always get parts and the ride is 500x better.
  3. Some of the newer Kawasaki come with the Chery engine... Which doesn't Joyner use too?
  4. Yesterday
  5. The Coleman (US brand) is a Hisun (Chinese) in disguise. A few, but certainly not all Japanese and American brands use Chinese parts including the engine. One model of the Kawasaki and John Deere UTVs uses a Chinese engine. Never know what we're getting unless we do some deep, deep digging and researching.
  6. Overcharging with a hot voltage >14.5VDC can damage battery cells. You can also get low quality batteries fresh from the store. Your hot voltage may have killed a new battery.
  7. This one's been going for 19 years. I replaced the rear axle seal and bearing, and pulled th engine, put new rings and seals on it. It's been a good machine with very few problems over the years.
  8. Main jet issue. Probably some tarnish or trash or fleck of gasket. This is a carburetor model, right?
  9. Welcome to the forum! Glad to hear of your plowing success with the Ranger. Occasionally we have people asking about snow plowing with these little machines. But being in South East Texas, where it rarely snows. And never enough to plow, much less shovel. I've had extremely limited experience with this, and can't contribute much. I've seen things like that done before, albeit not much around here in Texas. Even then, it was always on a light truck. And typically it was a hydraulic system. But it sounds like you're on the right track. Especially with the beefier mounting, and the larger actuator. I use one of those electric actuators for the bed lift of my mule. They work pretty good if you've got enough power. Please take the time to document this build, and share it with us. And remember that we love pictures! Good luck with your build, we're looking forward to hearing about the details of your project.
  10. Since the 2003 is so similar. Is it possible that the switch from the 2003 could be made to fit the 02 model?
  11. The battery connections are perfect and should be on the positive at the solenoid but I'll check it to be sure. I had changed the starter last year. Now I did not check the negative side to the frame, I will check it out tomorrow. Thanks! I see in your picture you have a 550, I have a 550 also, looks just like yours. They are good utvs also
  12. Could be a restriction on the high speed jet in the carb, Does it do it while driving only or in Neutral just reving?
  13. Last week
  14. I have a 2016 cub cadet challenger 750. In the past month it has started to lose power at about 25 mph, sounds like it is struggling for fuel. Any suggestions?
  15. This may sound silly, but are your battery cable ends free of corrosion?
  16. No, but shouldn't be far from the ECU. Little black cube that plugs into a socket. Sometimes they're held in by a black rubber boot to insulate from bouncing and shocks.
  17. Earlier this year my battery was weak and I had to boost my mule to start it then I decided to remove the battery to check the fluid level which was very low, I set the levels and recharged the battery a few months later it did the same thing, so I had to boost it again then checked the voltage running was getting around 16 vdc ( which is too high) and fluid level was very low again and wouldn't hold a charge. Note: The battery was maybe 1-1/2 years old. Then I replaced the battery and checked the voltage running nothing changed I was only reading battery voltage it wouldn't increase with increased engine speed. I changed the voltage regulator with an aftermarket one, same thing not charging. I checked the alternator per the service manual which states .3 ohms or less it checks at .2 ohms and not shorted to ground. With the engine running I disconnected the alternator and it had around 22 vac idling and around 60 vac revving the engine, so I figured the regulator was bad so I replaced it with another new one (aftermarket) from a different company, again not charging only reading battery voltage. I did put the original voltage regulator on nothing changed still not charging. Using the manual wiring diagram did continuity checks going to the voltage regulator everything checks out OK. Now what am I missing?
  18. Read the wires back to the ECU, or maybe a relay, and then the relay to the ECU. It could be a relay. Those little Bosch relays do fail, but they're fairly cheap
  19. Only if I put power directly to it then it will click. I guess it’s not getting power.
  20. A switch is just that - it let's voltage pass or it doesn't. If the full-time on bothers you with a jumper, just put a $1.99 rocker switch inline with it. Turn it on when you're ready to drive, off when you park it.
  21. I found this LINK , it shows it used on virtually all early 00's rangers, from 2000 to 2004.
  22. Thanks for the link Travis, but I'm dealing with an odd ball ranger. The VIN indicates a 2002 series 11. My service manual doesn't show a 2002 4x4 wiring diagram for it. It shows starting in 2003 which matches up with what I'm seeing under the hood. Polaris customer service can't find a 2002 diagram. In addition, the VIN has only 16 alpha/numeric characters, not the 17 required for customer service. Jumper wiring it to bypass this switch concerns me because it feeds the alternator control switch. Don't want to fry other components.
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