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  1. Today
  2. Sorry so slow getting back to your reply. The A-arms have a bolt/nut that holds the arm to the frame, no bushings at all unless I am missing something here. Thanks
  3. Hey I finally found a joyner I could afford lol I just bought a 2008 joyner sand viper 800cc I like it but it needs work that's not the issue me being a mechanic issue is I can't seem to find the parts I need like everything else I've worked on I'm not even sure what would work so I need advice from some one who has been there for now the things I need the most are rear shocks , I need the upper and lower ball joints or Johnny joints whatever they are called and I'm sure this had a fuel pressure regulator before now it just has some random inline pump no filter runs good for 15 mins or so then runs pretty crappy but if I let it sit a bit same thing I know it's going out but I need to know what I can do to sub for the factory pump and what psi requirement it has that's it for now any help would be appreciated
  4. Yesterday
  5. Try to remove the skid plate the same way I did and replace the nuts with U-nuts. Mark the location of the drain hole before removing, of course. Drilled holes in my case seem to migrate from where I drilled them to stay. When I remove my skid plate for my next oil change, I'm going to drill a BIG hole so that it can't migrate too far. (:<))
  6. Thanks for your feedback Dan. At least I know others have the same issues. Looks like I'll be dealing with the bash plate now too. I don't have a cutting torch so I'll have to drill a bunch of little holes to make a big one. That will require laying under it with drill oil and shavings falling on my face for an hour. I might consider pulling the plate if it isn't too big a deal. I wonder how the previous owner dealt with it. Maybe he never changed the oil. This machine has 4000 miles and the oil is pretty black. I would not be surprised. I can't ask him though because he knows that I know he cheated me by not telling me about the bad shock.
  7. Curious if anyone has successfully added a light bar to a Coleman / Hisun 550cc UTV. I got mine at Tractor supply last November, but I understand they are the same machine as a Hisun. I've been scouring the interwebs for information regarding the wiring harness to no avail. Wondering if anyone on this forum as had success and could offer some tips. Thanks y'all
  8. I have the the same problem with my bash/skid plate. I think they installed the skid plate, then installed the engine. They used nuts and bolts to install the skid plate. I could loosen the bolts but then the nuts started to turn = couldn't remove the skid plate under normal procedures. What I did is loosened the bolts, then inserted a thin pry bar between the skid plate and the chassis to bind the nut so that is couldn't turn. I was able to remove all the bolts. I replaced the nuts with metric U-nuts. They mount on ears attached to the chassis. The U-nuts won't turn. As for accessing the drain plug, I'm going to drill a large hole so as to access the drain plug. Roll cages need diagonal supports. There are other rides that have the same issue. I can't speak of the Trooper, but my oil filter is easily accessible via raising the bed. Your Trooper and my Renegade have the same engine now (as of 2014). I have a concern about oil pressure at idle. It's barely the limit of 10 psi at 1,000 RPM. The common standard is 10 psi per 1,000 RPM. I use 50 weigtht oil and that helps the idle oil pressure. Above idle the oil pressure is fine. I agree with the racing harness. Can't easily access the storage compartment under the passenger seat. Buckles too wide. I bought my ride used off Craigslist. The previous owner took out the 5-point harness and installed lap belts, too, I reinstalled the harness and haven't had problems with them coming loose at the attach points or the buckle, not yet. Working on the wiring is nearly impossible if I want to add electrical accessories. My ride has an OBDII connector but is isn't a standard protocol. My OBDII testers can't communicate with my machine. I like my ride. I don't have $20k, $30k, $40k for a fancy ride. It's more of a utility/farm vehicle and not so much a sport vehicle. It's just with Joyner, you may have to be your own mechanic as I've learned. As with most advertising for almost anything, they put flowery words promoting the advantages of their products and not mention any negatives.
  9. 2019 POLARIS RZR 1000 TURBO S On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/2019-POLARIS-RZR-1000-TURBO-S/184342345969?
  10. One more rant I have to make. The seller said the OEM seat belts would come loose when you are riding so he took them out and installed lap belts like in a car. I wasn't thrilled about that but I didn't give it much thought. After riding in the machine a couple of times I now realize these lap belts are absolutely unsafe in a rollover. You need shoulder harnesses in these machines. I see in the forum this has been an issue with these machines. A friend gave me a set of racing harnesses but they are too wide for the openings in the seats. So yeah, now I need to spend more money because of the low quality of these machines. PS, the owners manual says very clearly the roll cage on these machines are cosmetic. They are not designed to protect you if the machine rolls over. They don't mention that in the sales brochures. Folks, if you buy Chinese you are literally risking your life!
  11. Now that I have the wheels and shocks removed I can see the oil filter is easily accessible. It looks like you would not be able to access it unless these parts are un-installed. So I decided now is the time to change the oil and filter. So I look to see where the oil drain plug is and there is no way to access it through the bash plate underneath. They did not provide a hole to change the oil! I am dumbfounded. There is not enough clearance between the drain plug and plate to do anything. How am I supposed to change the oil in this thing? Just let it dribble out onto the bash plate and let it find it's way out? What a pile.
  12. I can't get anyone to answer the phone at FOA and they don't reply to my messages. Also I've learned that the FOA shocks are 24.5" long (pin to pin) extended whereas the mounting brackets on the Joyner are 23" pin to pin when the swing arm is at it's lowest point (touching the axle). Thus I cannot install the FOA shocks unless I compress them first. Also I would have to install limiter straps which requires welding. I am not equipped to do these modifications. Another option is to weld on new shock mtg brackets to fit the FOA shocks but again I am not equipped to do that. It would be a big deal to have the modifications done by a shop. I don't believe it is financially justifiable to invest more money than necessary in this vehicle. Thus it looks like the best option for me is to buy OEM shocks. I can get them locally. I'll run it with the OEM shocks for a year or so then sell it if it doesn't fall apart. I'll lose money on it but not as bad as if I were to buy better shocks.
  13. I couldn't find anything on google or other websites.... Pretty sure the camshaft will have a automatic compression relief on it that relieves compression out of the cylinder via one of the valves during start up, so usually when cranking the engine with a compression tester the reading won't be the Exact compression of a engine running at 2500 RPM, But, it seems to be a baseline for all small engines whether it be lawnmowers or 4 wheelers, seems as though 85 to 90 PSI is the minimum to start a 4 stroke engine.
  14. Did it fire when you put fuel in the spark plug hole and reinstalled plug? If not you need to locate the igniton coil, you'll need to remove the flywheel fan cover. Trace the spark plug wire if you need help locating it. There should be 2 wires on that coil. The spark plug wire and the Coil kill wire. The kill wire is what you want. un plug it from the coil. reinstall the fan housing so you can start it. Then put fuel in the spark plug hole, reinstall the plug and spark plug wire, and try to start if it fires, there is something grounding the coil and killing spark, could be the wire has some insulation missing and shorting on something, or a faulty kill switch. If it fires and dies with the wire unplugged you also have a carb issue. if you unplugged the wire and it still didn't fire, bad ignition coil. Now, when the kill wire is unplugged and it tries to start and backfires and pops, you may have valve timing issue (out of adjustment) or a sheared flywheel key.
  15. The part fits the 2 models listed below: RTV500-A / H (Orange model ATV / HDWS) RTV500R-A / H (Realtree Hardwoods Camo model ATV / HDWS) got this straight from Messicks.
  16. I think the part number eg672-44800 is for a 900.Thanks so much for the reply.My 500 will not run with this hose hooked to the sensor.
  17. Fuel pressure.It has a small hose from around fuel injector going to an electrical connection
  18. Last week
  19. Is this the orange model or Hardwoods camo? Okay, looked through all the diagrams at messicks, Only 2 sensors i could find, Thermostat and this one. which i assume to be the fuel pressure unit. part number EG672-44800.... IF that is it, it is pricey. $150 i think. I couldn't find any picture of it, so it may best to contact Kubota with that part number i gave you and see what they say.
  20. Fuel pressure.It has a small hose from around fuel injector going to an electrical connection
  21. Anyone know where to find the expected compression level when doing a compression check on a 2017 Cub Cadet Challenger 750?
  22. Thats more than odd! Did waterpump not work before causing the overheat and cracked head? Was the waterpump leaking for them to say it is bad?
  23. we[l, shop called, parts came in, installed running good, but now waterpump took a crap.. so here we go again
  24. I recently inherited a 2014 MCU 500. A nephew accidentally put diesel in the tank, proceeded to run it until it stalled out. We proceeded to empty the tank and put fresh gas in it. It ran maybe for 10 minutes then shut off. Haven’t been able to get it started since. That’s when I started to mess with it. This is what I’ve done so far. I might add I know the very basics of on engines so I thought I would come here and get some advice. - emptied tank and lines leading up to fuel. Filled and primed with new gas. -cleaned air in-take, it was pretty dirty. -did a full oil change. I felt like there was definitely diesel mixed in. -changed spark plug. Tested and working appropriately - tested fuel injector and it appears to be working That’s where I’m at so far and still nothing. At this point looking to see what the next steps would be in trying to diagnose what’s going on. Appreciate the help in advance. Thanks, Harrison
  25. I am looking for a pressure sensor for a 2008 rtv 500.EG672-44801
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