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  2. My 2014 Odes with less than 1000 miles suddenly won’t turn over with a fully charged battery.
  3. Yesterday
  4. You can also just bungee cord a Flip 6 to the roll bar. Great sound for $110
  5. I'm looking for a 4 wire ignition cylinder switch assy with key for a 2006 Joyner 800 Renegade. I don"t have a part number.
  6. Hi Kalyla, I have a brand new BOSS BRT17SLR in the UNOPENED factory box. I will sell for $160.00 ($150 unit, 10 shipping) Good unit! I've owned one before. https://bossaudio.com/products/791489132046?variant=48798040129696&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=20742584627&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7cXdsPH9hAMVNTfUAR1xfANdEAQYASABEgJzU_D_BwE I ended up going with the BOSS BRRF46A. It ROCKS! You can see it in my profile. -----Blair
  7. welcome fellow Cajun.....I love those mud bugs but $12 /lb is crazy right now.
  8. ICE requires 3 things fuel/air mix, Compression, and Spark. ECM is doing its thing (+12 at both inputs and dual GND(s) AND pick up coil timing pulse) and fuel injector pulsing fuel.......wet plugs. CORRECT fuel/air mixture. Some of the Hisun engines have a "spit" fuel injector which I believe to have been the 2 hole......find new 3 holers to get fuel/air mix to the magic 14:1 ratio. DO a compression test....low compression can be due to: !. Rings worn and scoured (fuel wash down of oil) cylinder wall. Some oil squirt in the spark plug hole will help seal rings and raise compression. 2. Old engine (sitter???) carbon flake gets under and/or between the valve and valve seat....usually the Exhaust....will have excessive valve clearance if not adjusted after carbon capture. Low compression but no real danger to valve. Multi-cyl engine, the running cyl(s) will drag along the dead cyl and then do a hot gas jet cut to the valve face. V cut notch. 3. Worn chain/weak tensioner....gives valve timing JUMPED. Pull lid and TDC the crank and check timing marks. Off a few teeth, poor run or not at all. Way off and the piston has a late night date with one of the valves.....bent valve cannot close....no compression...no run. T/S as follows: Do the above checks. 1, Remove the air filter to TB plumbing......free unrestricted air flow and no possibility of gas fumes from air filter and air filter box. 2. Disconnect the fuel pump connector under pass seat.......no more injector dump fuel. 3. Dry plugs or better yet new spark plugs. Can always use old as spares. 4. Blow shop air into plug hole to dry the cylinder out........drop in the new plug. 5. Starter fluid is now the only source of fuel......carefully give a squirt while cranking over engine......IF lights off, give several semi-auto squirts for a longer run. 6. Engine is OK. Reconnect the air box plumbing. Remove air box lid and be sure air filter is clean and not slop oil soaked. 7. Feed the air filter a 1 sec squirt on the filter body. Restarts and with say a now 5 sec. run and die. 8. Reconnect the fuel pump connector. Back to stock. should start and run if fuel system is OK. If it goes back to it's old ways, injector is a spitter OR 9. Other inputs to ECM is making a rich mixture: IAT-----open and the ECM thinks the air temperature is at the South Pole. MAP combo sensor.......engine load "signal" located in the intake plumbing at the throttle body. It also determined the actual fuel delivery above the internal ECM map and dumps extra fuel....just lick the IAT functions as a "CHOKE". May the T/S Genie be with you BEN
  9. Honda isdefinately your best option . If that don't it your budgetyou can pick up a 13 hp from Harbor Freight for around 395 I think. They actually copied a honda engine I am told. Make sure the footprint fits, the shaft size and length fit. It has both electric strart and hand crank.But it also needs the oil checked regularly.. Watch their sales, join their club and you might get that engine with a 20-25% discount on sale. Keep in touch. Dont buy a kohler!
  10. Last week
  11. Hey all. I need to change my plug in my ut400 and I remember seeing people in here saying to get a certain one that was better than what it came with. What was it? Also I need to do an oil change. Are the tractor supply oil change kits ok to use? Any help here is appreciated!
  12. Nutcase

    Survey

    I have had good luck with my Joyner Trooper, but I don't take it out jumping dunes either. For a trail rig, it is great. They have a few hiccups that I took care of when I first got it, but it seems pretty hardy after that. I had to put copper shims in the steering box and power steering.
  13. Hello Rufus! Here's another bayou boy. Just signed on and looking forward to talking with you fellows. We just boiled 120 lbs. of crawfish the other night. Sooooooooo good. LOL
  14. This is my first buggy. I rode a Arctic Cat 500 manual for 19 years. My question is: with the engine running in Park and you rev the engine is the drive belt engaged and turning 🤷
  15. I think it simply let it wait 10-15 minutes. The colane is cool to touch to begin with so unless the engine oil is hot. Thank you for your help.
  16. Thank you WB. I feel like you're right. But this side-x-side has done this before. The key wouldnt turn it over and the pull cord broke a dozen tines. But for some reason, the process of installing a new starter and battery and adjusting the valves fixed it. And all that pressure went away. For the last 2-3 weeks, it has turned over with the key/pull-start effortlessly. But I guess it is possible that this is a new, unrelated issue. So I'm going to try an oil change and maybe even spray something in the spark plug hole just to see if that improves anything. BUT... if it doesn't... and it is time for a new motor... and we can't afford a Honda... has anyone on this forum already discussed the best, easiest to replace, most affordable option for a new motor on this model?
  17. Hello, my name is Steve and just signing up. Bought my first UTV yesterday. It is a Massimo T-Boss 550.
  18. damn nurse, Oil is the blood of an engine . you have to check the ppressure {level} regularly. If it seized you can probably get ready for a new engine. If I remember correctly you had a kohler engine. While shopping I would check out other brands. Kohler is getting a bad reputation latlely. I would like a Honda engine inj it. You cantry putting oil in it and see if it will crank but I dont give great odds. If you get a new one CHECK THE OIL every time you run it and teach the kids also.
  19. starts up you have keep rpms up for 5 minutes till it warms up then runs fine. But if it stalls wont start unless you unplug fuel pump and hold it to the floor till it starts then plug pump back in and run it till it warms up then it is fine all day.
  20. Looking up some info on Google, I keep running into info about a "Seized Motor." I checked the oil when we first got it running again. There was plenty in it. It was probably old oil, but it wasn't dry. Is it possible that I am getting close to a seized motor? Could an oil change help? Any advice on troubleshooting or repairs would be GREATLY appreciated!
  21. Sorry, y'all... I've been away for a while. Our Landmaster side-x-side sat in our garage for over a year! We finally lifted the motor up enough to remove the shroud and installed a brand-new starter/solenoid combo that fit. It still wouldn't start. A mechanic friend said, adjust the valves. I did that (and put in a new battery) and FINALLY... the thing started on the first crank! So the kids have been running this thing for 2 weeks straight! Starting no problem. Then all of a sudden, it won't start with the starter. Bought a new battery, electric starter still won't start, but pull start works ok. So we use the pull start for about a week. Then it gets to where the pull starter won't budge! I tried rotating the crank shaft with a socket wrench, WAY too much pressure. I pulled the spark plug out. STILL way too much pressure to turn the crank shaft. I have never seen a motor that won't turn without the spark plug in it. So here's my question... What in the world could be causing all that pressure to where the motor won't even turn with the spark plug out?!
  22. GENERAL ELECTRICAL TEST INFORMATION FOR TESTING POWER AND GROUND CIRCUITS. GEM FOR ALL ELECTRICAL MYSTERY T/S. SAVE AND print out. 6Vdc 12Vdc 24Vdc 36V and 48Vdc (golf carts) 120/120/240Vac 125/208/208/208Vac 125/208/125Vac/240/240/240Vac Added to this problem because his real problem was a high resistance +12Vdc feed to the DELPHI ECM. There are two (2) =12V feeds and two (2) ground feeds. +12V feeds are the ALWAYS HOT and the KEY ON. The fella used one of the them thar new fangled DIGITAL VOM. He could have saved him T/S time if (maybe) if he would have used an ANALOG VOM------- those relics from the past that had a needle meter and scales. The KEY difference is the Digital "sips" power from the circuit under test. The Analog meter requires some electrical power from the circuit under test A LOAD. EXAMPLE of testing load current. WEAK or DISCHARGED BATTERY. You drive an OLDER car that does NOT have the AUTO headlight function. You go to a party and it is raining. Wipers=Headlights. You exit the car and forget the low beam headlights draining your battery. Party over and your car is easy to spot because your's is the only one with YELLOW headligths shining. CRAP! Gonna need a jump. You have to try though. Turn off headlights....dash and dome light are back and bright....small load.....head lights were YELLOW.....bigger load. Now for the real test.....crank over that BIG BLOCK under the hood. You have the solenoid click, Die. Click. Die.l You got the death rattle. GO LOOK FOR A JUMP. The reason for the above story IS an easy to understand electrical T/S problem. It could have just as well been an lightning damaged Phase A MAIN BREAKER in your home. You use your trusty HF $5 Digital meter and have a good solid 120/120/240Vac on the down feed up top. You check breaker buss for A and B and find good 120V if the nothing is running on the circuit. The electric dryer spins the drum (motor is Phase B side) but the clothes won't dry...heating element is a load across A & B......BUT all the house lights that went out and cycled with the wash cycles AND then you started the dryer and the lights are back on to stay. Digital meter says your are GOOD. You have the haunted house. This is based on true stories....Worst was a farmer required 2 visits from Power Company and 3 visits from "electrical repair companies". Called and I drive 90 miles to T/S. Their problem was a water well dead and 300 dairy cows. Running a tandem axle water tanker 24/7 for a week from Mt Vernon. Elapsed time 15 minutes (outside panel by the 7 grain bins were water proof). Used a Digital meter first then my trusty WIGGY. WIGGY is a selenoid movement AC/DC voltage tester.......HUNGRY voltage tester. It presents a load to circuit under test......SPARKS on Disconnect. The problem with the house circuit is dependent on the load presented thru the resistive connection (kink in the water hose) of Phase A. THE TESTING GEM......GO BACK TO THE 70's AND DIG OUT YOUR OLD SNAP-ON OR MAC TOOL TEST LIGHT. The one that had a full sized screw driver handle and stabber probe and the long chord clip for Gnd (and for +12v when chasing Gnd problems). The light bulb doesn't "sip" circuit power like a Digital VOM. FEED ME !!!!!. I had 2 of the probes....one with the stock say 100ma draw on 12v.....AND a second that had the mid 60"s dome light bulb. FEED me BIG TIME. In the above +7v on the purple wire BEFORE the KEY ON (ECM not drawing power to run its output drivers) was +12V....... AFTER the ECU was turned ON (ECM now alive and drawing more than the standby power) he dropped to +7v. Kudos to the fella for catching the change on a ALWAYS HOT full power circuit. The ECM was too much of a load and dropped the supply by half. WITH THE ABOVE LIGHT BULB TEST LIGHTS.................ONE tester WOULD HAVE HAD A DIM GLOW......THE OTHER (DOME LIGHT DRAW WOULD HAVE BEEN DARK. BEN
  23. 2011 Polaris RZR 900 Xp On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/266702209616?
  24. Nods may be correct, but a weak battery can cause the problem, as well as dirty battery terminals, or a weak or dead charging system. I'd first test the battery voltage and if it's less than 12.6 volts, then check the battery terminals for corrosion/looseness, then charge the battery. Start it and check the output of the charging system for >12.6 volts, ~13v+. If it won't start at this point and you're still getting clicking, you'd need to test the solenoid and circuitry to the solenoid from the switch.
  25. Dollars to Doughnuts you have a bad starter solenoid. Had to have mine changed at 18 hours! It is fairly easy to test, use a volt meter and connect the ground (black) lead to a chassis ground point, an unpainted bolt would likely due. Take the positive lead of the meter (red) and connect it to the larger terminal of the solenoid that is NOT connected to the battery. It should read 0 volts. Now turn the key to the crank position and if it just clicks read the voltage. If it still shows 0 volts the relay is toast. If you get battery voltage then the problem is not the relay. (You can check your meter function by testing the battery voltage at the battery terminal.) Hope that helps you.
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