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strike250

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strike250 last won the day on October 16

strike250 had the most liked content!

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About strike250

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  • UTV Brand
    hisun

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  1. Congrats on your purchase. I have lots of info on that model. Manuals, tips and advice. check out www.250utv.com and you will find everything you need there. Matt
  2. That is another great idea, I would only tell anyone to watch out for cheap "aftermarket" clones as they sometimes have a 'reliability' issue. But if you feel you have a quality one, by all means, install it. The idea is that when it is over, it will prevent liquid from spilling out. You can test anyone of these items by using a plastic water bottle and a rubber tube installed on the bottom end. just turn it upside down, and see if it stops the water from flowing out. If it does, then you are good to go. I just used a higher priced unit sourced from a reliable race source. But there are a lot of good quality aftermarket anti roll valves out there you can choose from. Good luck and have fun! Matt
  3. Hey there, good to see folks doing some research on things prior to making a purchase. As to the topic of ground clearance, I think you might be a little surprised to find that the sector and the strike use the same wheels, shocks and suspension, so for them to say the sector has 8" of ground clearance I would say is a little 'white lie'. They use a different chassis, but share the same part numbers on many other items, like suspension front and rear. As for the power, with the throttle stop removed, it will do upwards of 48 to 50 mph with me weighing in at 200 lbs in it. as for going uphill, depends on the angle of the hill, and the condition of the trail. They are great for fire roads, but from a standing stop up a rough steep hill, you might be a little disappointed. It just doesn't have the torque required to do that kind of work. They are great for play and easy roads and trails not so much for serious off-roading. Me and my wife have both been in the strike 250, but the seats are bucket seats and are form fitting style, the bench seat in the sector might be more comfortable for two adults with room to spare. The sector is easier to get in and out of compared to the strike as well. The strike doors can be a challenge at times to open. If it were just me and my wife, I would have gotten the sector over the strike, but my young son drive the strike like crazy, so he got to pick it out and we end up driving our jeep wrangler. I have not driven the Trailmaster challenger yet so I cannot comment on something I do not know. I can only comment on what I do know. But from what you are telling me in your post, I think you will like the sector over the strike. Same engine, suspension, just different seating position. I do know the Trailmaster and the Hisun UTVs both have solid rear axles, so I think the ride will be very close. The Trailmaster uses bucket seats as does the Hisun Strike, so take that under consideration compared to the Sector and see which you would like better, remember you are the one riding in it. I looked at it on some videos and it looks okay, but I just don't know from first hand knowledge.
  4. My site is up and running now, check it out! www.250utv.com and be sure to come back here for lots of up to dates on tech articles and how to do information. Matt
  5. Hello once again, this time I want to bring to your attention a problem that I found out the hard way. On one of our previous trips to Dumont Dunes, my son had the great opportunity to roll his Hisun Strike 250 at very low speeds, no damage to him or the vehicle and it landed up right as well. but one thing we noticed was that fuel had poured all over the passenger!!!. Once we got back I looked at it and found the fuel tank vent was of such poor quality that it broke at the fuel tank. Not sure if it was from the roll over or just from being made from poor quality plastic. Well, I found a great long lasting repair and wanted to share it with you all. It is something that is found is pretty much most off road race vehicles. I installed a roll over valve in place of the fuel tank vent. I am including some pics to show you. In the event we roll it over once more, the vent valve will automatically shut off the flow of fuel. It has a ball valve in it and when upside down, it blocks the flow of fuel so that it can't pour out all over the persons in the vehicle and have a potential fire! It is gravity controlled. The valves are low cost at about $15 or so. Cheap insurance when it comes to safety for sure. I cleaned out the hole where the previous fuel tank vent was. I removed the fuel tank pump/filter assembly. I then drilled out the hole just smaller than the ball check valve. I was able to reach into the fuel tank to catch any plastic that the drill might push into the tank as well. I used a fuel resistant sealant on the threads as well. I used a 1/4" NPT thread fuel tank check valve with a 5/15 hose barb. This is a much better product than the OEM product. I would recommend every one install one of these for safety if they get a chance. Or at the very least inspect your fuel tank vents. No one wants fuel leaking on them in the event of a roll over.
  6. do you know How would I send the admin here a question?
  7. I completely understand that, but sometimes its nice to have that extra power at the ready.
  8. The only thing holding it back should be a plate on the throttle peddle area. It is called the throttle stop. Take a look at it and see if you have one there. You should be able to depress the throttle peddle all the way down, and watch the throttle butterfly valve rotate completely as well. You can verify this by pressing the throttle peddle all the way down, and then access the throttle where the throttle cable is attached. If you can still rotate the round butterfly valve a lot more than you are already pressed down, then you have a throttle stop. You should only have a very slight movement left if at all in the throttle valve when the throttle peddle is pressed all the way down. Remember that after any throttle cable adjustment, you should have some slack when the peddle is released so that the throttle can close all the way. check this and let me know. I will post some pics of mine here.
  9. It was surprisingly easy, I actually did it without the service manual as well. Learned a lot. Found a lot of loose nuts and bolts which I replaced with quality ones. Just wanted to know more about the construction of the unit overall, welds and connections. I found a lot of things I would have done different, like re-routing the wiring and harness in different areas from the factory, they seemed to just place things in there. I found much better routing, safer as well.
  10. No, it's just there to release vented crankcase pressure back into the airbox.
  11. Just got the engine back in today, hard to deal with after having surgery on my right shoulder, ouch! But glad that little engine is kinda light. Working on the dash now, adding some new rocker switches with relays for the light bar, rear LED's and the lighted whip. Using relays since the electrical system is not really designed for a big draw on it. And since there is not really an accessory source, so it took some engineering to do it correctly so that they are not on without the key being turned on. This way my son won't accidentally leave them on and kill the battery. I also wanted to make it waterproof.

  12. Its 229 cc
  13. That is the crankcase breather hose, it goes to the air filter canister.
  14. I wanted to update some pics of the lift kit for you, more so the front lift kit area. So you can have a better look at it. The kit comes with all mounting plates, bolts, nuts, spacers and everything needed to simply bolt in. No drilling required. Powered coated in red for protection. Only $59.99
  15. With my unit, I am able to drive it into my dually with my 200 lbs fat but in it up the ramps, it did struggle, but it made it up the ramps into my truck under its own power. Sorry again to hear about yours.