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Travis last won the day on July 17

Travis had the most liked content!

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About Travis

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/07/2003
  • Location Conroe, TX, USA

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  • UTV Brand
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    Kawasaki Mule 550's

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  1. here's the cable i ordered Aftermarket off of Amazon, i couldn't wait as long as it would take the dealer to get it in. or have it delivered. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TML47DD?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
  2. When it starts to run bad, pull the choke closed slowly and see if you can get it to run better... if it does, you have a fuel starvation issue.
  3. I was going.... then i wasn't.... Throttle cable.... i guess it just wore out... 20 years of pulling.. all linkage is free and not binding. easily moved. i was able to slide the linkage off the carb and throttle by hand to get home.
  4. There are two main components most UTV's use for charging the battery, the Alternator (sometimes called a Stator) and a Voltage Regulator (sometimes called a Voltage Rectifier) the alternator produces the A/C voltage... generally around 25 to 30 volts while idling and running, the Voltage regulator then converts the A/C voltage to D/C voltage through a series of Diodes and resistors and stuff i don't know much about, and converts it down to a low amperage usually .5 to 1 or 2 amps on healthy battery, but it is capable of providing anywhere from 10 to 20 or even 40 or 50 Amps, to run
  5. Regulator is definitely defective..., you should also be getting at least24 volts AC on each A/C wire... DC volts are AC volts split in half... so AC 22v = 11Volts DC... at the battery I like to see about 13 or 14 v or so idling, and up to 15v at high RPM. It isn't uncommon for the regulator to get warm, hence the fins on it... but the wires should stay cool.. Heat is generated by resistance. That's one thing i really don't like about some meters, when continuity testing, they apply a small load to the wire, under a small load a wire may test fine, but when a higher amped load is a
  6. i bet that will be nice this Fall and Winter!!
  7. I read over on the kawie riders forum that people are just now getting their Mule's they ordered last year, and some are buying them right off the dealer lot like usual. Right now "because" Of COVID raw materials you use in manufacturing are in short supply, as well as workers.
  8. there is.. it's under the dash, put right below the gear shift there is a transparent tank and you should be able to tell the level from there. I believe i have it circled in red.
  9. here is the roof windshield i put on his SX. the windshield is nice, very clear lexan the dual vents and flip up capability is nice for extra air flow in the cab. https://www.sidebysidestuff.com/falcon-ridge-aero-vent-front-windshield-kawasaki-mule-sx.html https://www.sidebysidestuff.com/moose-polyethylene-hard-top-kawasaki-mule-sx.html the roof is just a basic HDPE plastic with a little fancy design around the top, and on the back has a slight angle to shed water.
  10. congrats on your purchase... the low on power could be that the drive belt still needs to be broken in and the seller should describe the way you should drive to properly break in the belt.\ I'd express your concerns on the brakes to the seller as well. my grandad purchased a Mule SX last year and the brakes felt good. you could stop on a dime.
  11. Might try reading through here https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/threads/2003-mule-3010-fuel-pump.145985/ surprised you're going through the mechanical pumps...they rarely fail. not unless you wire it from an accessory plug with a switch in between where you manually can cut it off and on, but it gets cut off when the keyswitch is off.

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