Travis

If you change the air intake it will most likely void the warranty. if a component isn't sealed correctly ( i.e., starts sucking in dust) that will wipe out the cylinders pretty quick and you'll start burning oil and lose compression. i would contact your dealer and see if there are any filter systems that will NOT void the warranty that are a upgrade.

seems joyner parts are a little hard to come by as far as dealer networks go... try here http://joyner-usa.com/joyner-parts/

does it have seatbelts? if you aren't using them, try buckling them and see how fast it goes.

Slick looking machines...

Welcome! Being so new that information probably isn't widely loose on the internet, I'd give your local Polaris dealer Tech/Parts department a call and they should be able to look it up and tell you...

i would contact American Landmaster, and see if you can get the dimensions of the belt (length, width, thickness) and go from there

i did think about putting it on the plastic shroud that goes over the gear shift and diff lever and choke cable just left and below the seat but it's kind of prone to weeds and briars grabbing it and weather, of course a waterproof switch will be used.

What gauge wire do you think I should use? I was reading online that starter solenoid triggers can draw up to 10 or 12 amps. The original trigger wire appears to be 18 or 20 gauge.....i think.. Thinking of 16 gauge probably... Since i have distance to consider.

I'm done with this thing..... i thought it wasn't going to start today, turn the key, click. turn the key, click, turn the key click, about 30 times... the battery voltage would drop about 1/2 a volt when i turned the key to start and it would hit... then it started about 3 or 4 times with no problem.... I'm confident it is not a physical Flywheel ring gear /starter gear issue as i did an experiment where i marked on the flywheel with a sharpie what position it would be in when the starter would not turn over, and it never was in the same spot. I'm confident it's not the starter or soleno

if you have a electrical meter/tester set it to continuity, (beeps when you touch the probes together) and use that to check the fuses.

Oh by the way, here is the tool i used. Compared to the $40 Kawasaki tool C spanner shock adjuster

got them adjusted down, rides pretty smooth now, not like a cadillac, but better than it was... especially over a stretch of trail by the pond where the ground always stays hard and rough.

I'm not finding one anywhere..... you might contact cub cadet and try to figure out who made the transmission. I'm almost certain Cub cadet didn't build the trans. Probably Spicer/Dana, or Tuff Torq.

Okay, i finally found a Chinesium tool to fit the notches properly on the shock absorber. I would like to soften the ride up so it's not *as* bumpy. Now I''m thinking, if i want to make it ride smoother i would lessen the spring tension, correct so the spring has more spring to it and room to compress??? but the table shows if it's bad terrain, to put it on a higher notch. What say y'all?

History of the MULE.. i had to zoom in a little bit to read it. https://www.kawasaki.info/pdf/UV&RUV_HISTORY.pdf