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rmissildine

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rmissildine last won the day on May 28

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About rmissildine

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/14/1952
  • Location Fort Mitchell, AL, USA

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    Male
  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki Mule

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  1. Got to work on the carb yesterday, after I blew a pressure hose on the front end loader. That's gonna tear up a $200.00 bill!!! Anyway, got the limiter cap off, ground off the stop tab and popped it back on so as to have a screw driver slot to adjust with. Cranked up the mule and let it warm up, about 10 minutes or so. Started by closing down on the pilot screw to drop the idle, then began slowly backing it out until the highest idle was reached and wouldn't go any higher, turned it back in about 1/8 of a turn or so, readjusted the idle, by ear to what seemed close. Idled great. Time for a test ride. Pulled off very smoothly with no stutter, all the way up high speed. Ran like a champ. Tried it several times in forward and reverse, same response. The only time it wanted to stumble was when I'd get down on it from a dead stop, then a bit but cleared right up. Since these aren't racing machines, and they're driven for what they are, a utility vehicle, I couldn't be happier. Travis, I want to thank you again for all the help and support. Let me know if you ever need anything... Roger
  2. EUREKA!!!!! Got the new Gates belt in today, installed and tested this afternoon. Man, what a difference. No more grinding going into gear, smooth shifting from forward to reverse, diff lock works better, although I did let it roll a bit. Still stutters a bit when pulling off even after turning the idle up a bit. So, now it's get the limiter cap off the pilot screw and see if I can tweak the carb a bit to clear that up. Travis, I want to thank you for all your input, without it, I would have been lost. There's not a lot of info about the 550 on the internet, although there are great machines, for what they are designed for. I'll post the results about the carb as soon as I get a chance. May be a while, got a lot going on... Take care and God bless, Roger
  3. I know what ya mean. Back when I was ordering parts for the mule, I had one part that arrived in Montgomery, AL, which is the middle AL hub, went to Opelika, AL, about 30 miles north of me, then back to Montgomery, and then here to Fort Mitchell the next day, one day after the 2 day priority mail guarantee..... Gotta love the USPS.
  4. Fiverr, First what kind of mower are you thinking of pulling? Most all bush hogs are PTO driven and require either a 3 point lift or remote hydraulics to operate, meaning you have to have some way to spin the blades, and some way to lift it. Now, a "pull behind, self powered" mower would work, but the largest I've seen is around 5 maybe 6 feet for the cut. They attach to the tow vehicle, have their own adjustable height wheels and their own engine. I had a Bush Hog brand (GT42) I think that was nothing more than a pull behind lawn mower, although it did have a stout blade for tough grass. 42 inches is not much of a cut width. 14 acres, that'll take a while. I have about 8 acres of pasture that I mow with a 6 Rhino finishing mower set at 3 inches, it takes me around 4 - 5 hours to mow that. To answer your question, depending on the steepness of your "rolling hills" just about any of the 4 wheel drives could handle it, but then again if it's "risky" on a tractor, may be risky on a utv also.. Good luck, Roger
  5. Update..... Well, after bouncing around Texas for a couple of days, my new gates belt is finally on it's way to Alabama. And when I say bouncing, I really mean USPS must have walked it. It left Decatur TX around 10 pm Tuesday night, got to Fort Worth around 11:30 pm the same night. Left Fort Worth around 7pm Wednesday night, 20 hours after it arrived. Got to Irvine around 7:40 pm the same night. Left Irvine around Noon today, around 16 hours after it arrived... I checked the driving times to the different cities it traveled to, and the total was only around 100 miles... Gotta love USPS!!! Scheduled to arrive Saturday. But that's probably a good thing as it's been raining off and on all week, can't cut grass, work on the hay shed, work on the backhoe, it's pretty much stay in the house until we get a break in the rain to feed the horses... Anyway, had to vent a bit, now I'm all better!!! Take Care, Roger
  6. I was thinking of the same thing about the tiny tach. I'll probably get one for myself... Thanks, Roger
  7. Thanks Travis. I have tried letting it roll a bit, maybe not enough though. May have the cable too tight also, I'll check it again after I get the new belt on. What do you use for a tach to adjust the idle, or do you adjust it by sound, like I have to do??? Thanks again, Roger
  8. Glad I could help...
  9. Hey Travis, Thanks for your input. But, I was wondering, before I rebuilt the top end and replaced the belt, once I started it up and let the idle settle out, it went into gear much like our 2020 SX does. Just a little gear bump when shifting into gear, if you know what I mean. Unlike now, I have the idle as low as I can get it and still run, it acts like the rpm's are way to high and wants to really grind going into gear every time. So after thinking about it again (still dangerous), I was wondering, with the Dayco being a bit tighter, could the driven converter may be spinning a bit faster, where as with a longer belt, it would still spin, but possibly not as fast or with less pressure, allowing the transmission to shift smoother and allowing the diff lock to engage properly??? With the diff lock, I replaced the cable and adjusted it to the book. Didn't want to engage properly with the engine off and spinning the rear wheels. So I readjusted the cable and it locked every time whether I was spinning the rear wheels or not, but as soon as I cranked it up, let the idle settle out, it won't engage... Now, I don't have a single cylinder tach or a mechanical tach, but if I idled it any lower, it wouldn't stay running, tried that, got the tee shirt and empty bud cans to prove, oops, I mean coffee cup to prove it..... Just having fun. Anyway I've ordered a new Gates belt off ebay, should be here by the first of June, hopefully sooner. Then it's back off with the bed and right rear wheel and all that to replace it. But if it works, great, if not, you wanna buy a 2004 550 mule??? Just kidding again, I'm gonna fix it.. Roger
  10. Thanks Travis. Your pictures show what I was expecting. While I didn't do anything to the carb yesterday, I did crank it up and rode it a bit. While riding I was thinking (dangerous!!) that before I rebuilt the top end and put on the new Dayco belt, I didn't have this problem, my wife used it the most and she would not have been able to operate it like this. So after starting and stopping several times, shifting in and out of gear, I realized that the driven pulley or converter, is constantly turning, not only causing hard shifting but also putting an instant load on the engine possibly causing that stutter.... That also explains why the diff lock doesn't want to engage now. So before I go messing with the carb I'm gonna order a new Gates 6013 and see if that helps any first, then if need be, I'll work with the carb. Thanks, Roger
  11. 2-8, I don't have a FXT, but you can get a good idea if the tube diameter with a tape measure or ruler. Just lay either across the tube and try to sight the outer edges. If you had a dial caliper, you could get an exact measurement. When I ordered the rear view for my 2020 mule sx, I found one from side by side atv. It came with several different plastic clamps for different size tubes. I still had to wrap the mounting area with some electrical tape to take up the slack but it works. On my '04 mule 550, I had a bolt on mirror so I drilled a hole in the top tube and got a longer mounting bolt and it works great. Hope this helps, Roger
  12. I was hoping it may slide off. The limiter cap has a slot in it, but not sure about the actual pilot screw. I haven't taken the time to try it yet with so much going on, but hopefully this weekend. My manual just says to turn the pilot screw out one turn I believe. I'll have to check again to make sure. But your manual seems to be the way I've always adjusted these small carbs. If I can't easily remove that limiter cap, I'll try removing the tabs. Thanks, Roger
  13. Travis, I installed a Dayco HP2023 on my 550 when I did the top end. Like yours, it does seem a bit tight but it doesn't always move when in gear, but sometimes and more than I like. I may give the Gates belt a try. Thanks, Roger
  14. Hey Travis. Well, it's going. Seems like I get one thing fixed and something else acts up. When I bought the mule back in 2016, it needed a little work, like carb adjustment, wiring issues, etc. but it did run. So when I got it home, I ordered a main wiring harness and a regulator / rectifier(the old one was toast). Got that on and went to the carb issue. Someone had tried to remove the pilot jet and really butchered the screw driver slot so bad it wouldn't come out. So I ordered a new (aftermarket) carb. Got it on, adjusted somewhat. The new carb has a plastic piece over the pilot screw so it only moves about a half a turn. Since the top end rebuild it has started stuttering when I give it a little throttle when it's cold, just a tad bit better once it's warm. After looking at at the carb, I don't know if that plastic piece will come off, maybe. But I need to be able to bottom out the pilot screw and adjust it according to the manual. So, that's where I'm at. Other than that the mule runs fine now... Roger


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