Quantcast
Jump to content


Looking for any helpful experience using a UTV for bushhogging pasture


Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I'm wondering if anyone can help me with their experience. The last time I drove any of this stuff, it was a Honda Big Red 500 and a Honda Odessy dune buggy. I'm looking at a utv for pulling a pull-behind bushhog over about 14 acres of rolling pasture. most places are risky on a tractor, so the utv would have to do the whole thing twice annually. Tractors are made to pull implements that drag and take that abuse. While a pull-behind won't be like a plow, it will put a constant drag on the machine's frame. Would I be asking too much of a utv? And, if not, what kind of specs are we talking about? Diesel or gas? Any dealer will give me a thumbs up, but...

Thanks,

Fiverr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Travis. What do you think of the Kawasaki Mule diesel model? Their 3 year warranty looks interesting. I have a good friend who, based on his experience with kubotas through work, suggested I look for something else. I know that would be second hand for anyone here, so I'd have to grant them the right to speak their own experience. Just the same, I couldn't buy one without having doubts. It's a big purchase.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fiverr,

First what kind of mower are you thinking of pulling? Most all bush hogs are PTO driven and require either a 3 point lift or remote hydraulics to operate, meaning you have to have some way to spin the blades, and some way to lift it.  Now, a "pull behind, self powered" mower would work, but the largest I've seen is around 5 maybe 6 feet for the cut. They attach to the tow vehicle, have their own adjustable height wheels and their own engine. I had a Bush Hog brand (GT42) I think that was nothing more than a pull behind lawn mower, although it did have a stout blade for tough grass. 42 inches is not much of a cut width.

14 acres, that'll take a while. I have about 8 acres of pasture that I mow with a 6 Rhino finishing mower set at 3 inches, it takes me around 4 - 5 hours to mow that.

To answer your question, depending on the steepness of your "rolling hills" just about any of the  4 wheel drives could handle it,  but then again if it's "risky" on a tractor, may be risky on a utv also..

Good luck,

Roger

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Roger,

Thank for responding. After talking with the local Honda dealer, I bought a Honda Pioneer 500 this evening. Seems that is a popular model around here for what I need to do. You're right about risky being risky. It's more a skill and experience question for me. I have a used  44" Swisher rough cut. As I get more familiar with working on the slopes, I'll be able to speed up a little and then even go to a bigger mower. There are some steep, tight areas a tractor could do in the hands of an experienced operator, maybe. I have very little time on my compact tractor, and a utv is going to be more forgiving. A local man has been bushhogging the pasture on a Ford, but the time has come for me to take over. If I had his skill and experience...  He has warned about the slopes because they are pretty steep, and they stay pretty wet with dew and short rains off the mountains.

Thank you everyone for your help.

Fiverr

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By hetovi
      Hello everyone.
      I recently bought a Can-Am Ryker and I'm looking to customize it with some accessories. I’ve seen a lot of options out there but wanted to get some recommendations from fellow riders.
      What are the must-have accessories for comfort, style, or performance?
      Specifically, I'm considering a windshield and better footpegs—are these worth the investment?
      Also, any thoughts on storage solutions like saddlebags or rear cases?
      Would love to hear your personal experiences with any mods you’ve done.
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Fishing Wiskers
      Top speed is 30mph on flat grass ground.  but it will not go up minor hills forward or reverse without a runing start.  If you start at the bottom of the hill machine will stop about 1/2 way up.  I have the engine cover off and you can see the outside of the drive clutch will stop spining., and the engine does bogg down some.  Dosent matter if engine is cold or warmed up.  Seat belts are connected.  Fuel is clean
      I am the 5th shop to look at it and different shops have replaced the fuel pump, injector, ign coil, wet clutch, 
      I am not sure how to check for codes with this machine,  can anyone teall me how to do it?
       
      Compression with hot eng is 145,  valves adjusted to .005 with a cold engine.  Dash shows 426 hours
      I am not convinced it's an engine problem
    • By Browner010
      Recently I had an overheating issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun UT550) and to check to make sure it was fixed I took it out for a ride around the block. After a couple cycles on the LED coolant meter, I took it for a couple mile ride and on my way back I heard a loud metallic snap then a grinding noise. It was still able to move under its own power but very slowly. I was about 2 blocks from the truck so 'I limped it home and up onto the trailer. I know I need to tear it apart and look for what broke, but anyone have a guess as to where to start? I'm seriously getting tired of this damn machine! 750 miles on it and already replaced the belt, wet clutch, primary clutch, clutch roller weights among a few other things. Seriously, this friggin machine has spent more time on the lift than on the road. I thought I bought this new because it was from the owner of a tractor supply, but he registered it under the stores name making me the 2nd owner voiding any and all warranties.
      Any Ideas what to look for would be appreciated.
      Thanks
    • Fast Free Shipping on All Orders Over $50
    • By Ridge Runner
      Hi
      i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter.  The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening.  There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place.  The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them.  This is right by the tail light assemblies.  I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in.  Bottom line I’m making it worse.  
      coleman was no help.  If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole.  Any ideas?
       
      thanks
      Ridgerunner
×
×
  • Create New...