Quantcast
Jump to content


AXIS 500 Won't Start

jcbigg

By jcbigg
in Massimo UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

jcbigg Newbie

jcbigg

Posted
Posted

When I try to start my AXIS 500 (from Lowes) there is a buzzing sound coming from the battery compartment and it will not turn over/start. The battery is showing 12.47 volts so that does not appear to be the issue, are there any suggestions on where to look next?

Ben1098 Enthusiast

Ben1098

Posted
Posted

Buzzing sound is probably from the starter solenoid.....kicking in and out.  It needs a full 12 Vdc on the coil connections to pull in and hold.  Best guess....a bad connection close to the battery heavy cables.  Places to check are the battery connections.  The ground wire to engine/frame.  The heavy battery cables could have a weak connection between the physical copper wires and the end connectors.  Use a BULB style 12 V tester probe and stab these points to see where the 12 Vdc is good and then drops out with the start function.

What is going on is the bad connection will support enough current for the solenoid at the initial Start sequence.  The bad connection limits the current flow when the starter's current draw is greater and the solenoid coil voltage drops out.  The example of a weak or discharged battery.......the dash light are OK and light.  The headlights may or may NOT be full bright but when you try the starter....they all will cycle with the solenoid buzz.

  • Like 1
jcbigg Newbie

jcbigg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi, I really appreciate the reply and information. I checked all the connections and all are good. the unit is practically new as it only has 6 miles on it. I keep it clean and in the garage. One suggestion was it was a faulty solenoid so I ordered and replaced it but still no joy. Is there anything else I should check before dragging it to a repair shop?

GigiH Newbie

GigiH

Posted
Posted

Check the stator.  We bought a new one in May 2023 and the thing would not hold a charge.  Mobile tech came out 7, yes 7, times, replaced the voltage regulator, spark plugs, battery and FINALLY listened to me and replaced the stator.  Magically, it worked and it runs fine now!

Greg Kilgore Community Regular

Greg Kilgore

Posted
Posted
On 7/20/2024 at 3:23 PM, Ben1098 said:

Buzzing sound is probably from the starter solenoid.....kicking in and out.  It needs a full 12 Vdc on the coil connections to pull in and hold.  Best guess....a bad connection close to the battery heavy cables.  Places to check are the battery connections.  The ground wire to engine/frame.  The heavy battery cables could have a weak connection between the physical copper wires and the end connectors.  Use a BULB style 12 V tester probe and stab these points to see where the 12 Vdc is good and then drops out with the start function.

What is going on is the bad connection will support enough current for the solenoid at the initial Start sequence.  The bad connection limits the current flow when the starter's current draw is greater and the solenoid coil voltage drops out.  The example of a weak or discharged battery.......the dash light are OK and light.  The headlights may or may NOT be full bright but when you try the starter....they all will cycle with the solenoid buzz.

Double check the battery cables, all power connections, check ground for solenoid, machine, and starter while you're at it. You can do a voltage drop test to make sure power cables are good. Almost like checking voltage on battery. 

 

Set multi-meter to DC voltage. 

To test positive cable from battery to solenoid. 

1. Connect 1 probe (red) to positive of battery.

2. Connect other probe (black) where the cable connects to the solenoid. 

3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

Can check solenoid same way.

1. Leave red probe at positive of battery.

2. Move black probe to the cable going to the starter where it connects to the solenoid.

3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

 

Check the cable going to starter the same way.

1. Move the red probe to the solenoid where the cable going to starter connects.

2. Move the black probe to where the cable connects to the starter.

 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

Can check the ground in the same way. Just move the black probe to the negative side of battery. Move the red probe to the machine frame, where the negative cable attaches to the machine,  or the starter housing. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

 

The voltage on meter will only display briefly. Anything greater than 0.5 volts indicates a bad connection in the section being tested.

 

Best of luck. Let's us know what you find out.

jcbigg Newbie

jcbigg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I appreciate all the advice and assistance. It was actually a faulty battery. Even though the battery reads 12.47 volts on the meter, it drops below 9 volts when trying to start, which alerts a defective battery. To test I jump-started the UTV with a spare car battery I had it started right up. Thank you to all who replied to my post.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Prepper
      2015 MSU-500 crank - no start
      By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


    • Gorj
      Sector E1 Battery change out
      By Gorj
      I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries.  I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each.  I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
    • D MAYNARD
      Axis 500 4x4 turns over but no spark
      By D MAYNARD
      I have an Axis 500 4x4 UTV that I was given.  It looks like an almost new machine with 39 hrs on it however it was apparently under water from the hurricane . I have no spark at the plug. I have replaced the plug, the plug wire, & the stator so far. Can anyone advise me of what i need to check and or replace to get this thing running? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 
                                    Thank You,
                                  D Maynard 
       
    • didgeridoo
      Hisun Sector e1 Battery replacement: any tips?
      By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • Frank Mac67
      AXIS 500 WILL NOT START. HELP!
      By Frank Mac67
      My Axis 500 has been operating properly for almost a year with Zero problems. While I was away my granddaughter & friends were riding & playing in the snow. They went to the gas station to fill the tank & the vehicle would not start afterwards. I BEEN GIVING MULTIPLE STORIES: The ATV will not start. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump come on but nothing happens other than that. 
      - NO CLICK - NO OTHER NOISE
      *I CHECKED THE BATTERY 12.43volts
      *I replaced the solenoid inside the battery compartment. 
      Seems the next electrical component in line has battery connections IN & motor connections OUT with 2 other small wires connectedaswell(I do not know the name of this component).
      Can anyone help?
      I can not find an ordered list of electronic components starting at the battery.
      Can anyone help with this?
      Thanks in advance for any help.
       

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...