AXIS 500 Won't Start

[jcbigg]

When I try to start my AXIS 500 (from Lowes) there is a buzzing sound coming from the battery compartment and it will not turn over/start. The battery is showing 12.47 volts so that does not appear to be the issue, are there any suggestions on where to look next?

[Ben1098]

Buzzing sound is probably from the starter solenoid.....kicking in and out.  It needs a full 12 Vdc on the coil connections to pull in and hold.  Best guess....a bad connection close to the battery heavy cables.  Places to check are the battery connections.  The ground wire to engine/frame.  The heavy battery cables could have a weak connection between the physical copper wires and the end connectors.  Use a BULB style 12 V tester probe and stab these points to see where the 12 Vdc is good and then drops out with the start function.

What is going on is the bad connection will support enough current for the solenoid at the initial Start sequence.  The bad connection limits the current flow when the starter's current draw is greater and the solenoid coil voltage drops out.  The example of a weak or discharged battery.......the dash light are OK and light.  The headlights may or may NOT be full bright but when you try the starter....they all will cycle with the solenoid buzz.

[jcbigg]

Hi, I really appreciate the reply and information. I checked all the connections and all are good. the unit is practically new as it only has 6 miles on it. I keep it clean and in the garage. One suggestion was it was a faulty solenoid so I ordered and replaced it but still no joy. Is there anything else I should check before dragging it to a repair shop?

[GigiH]

Check the stator.  We bought a new one in May 2023 and the thing would not hold a charge.  Mobile tech came out 7, yes 7, times, replaced the voltage regulator, spark plugs, battery and FINALLY listened to me and replaced the stator.  Magically, it worked and it runs fine now!

[Greg Kilgore]

On 7/20/2024 at 3:23 PM, Ben1098 said:

Buzzing sound is probably from the starter solenoid.....kicking in and out.  It needs a full 12 Vdc on the coil connections to pull in and hold.  Best guess....a bad connection close to the battery heavy cables.  Places to check are the battery connections.  The ground wire to engine/frame.  The heavy battery cables could have a weak connection between the physical copper wires and the end connectors.  Use a BULB style 12 V tester probe and stab these points to see where the 12 Vdc is good and then drops out with the start function.

What is going on is the bad connection will support enough current for the solenoid at the initial Start sequence.  The bad connection limits the current flow when the starter's current draw is greater and the solenoid coil voltage drops out.  The example of a weak or discharged battery.......the dash light are OK and light.  The headlights may or may NOT be full bright but when you try the starter....they all will cycle with the solenoid buzz.

Double check the battery cables, all power connections, check ground for solenoid, machine, and starter while you're at it. You can do a voltage drop test to make sure power cables are good. Almost like checking voltage on battery. 

 

Set multi-meter to DC voltage. 

To test positive cable from battery to solenoid. 

1. Connect 1 probe (red) to positive of battery.

2. Connect other probe (black) where the cable connects to the solenoid. 

3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

Can check solenoid same way.

1. Leave red probe at positive of battery.

2. Move black probe to the cable going to the starter where it connects to the solenoid.

3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

 

Check the cable going to starter the same way.

1. Move the red probe to the solenoid where the cable going to starter connects.

2. Move the black probe to where the cable connects to the starter.

 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

Can check the ground in the same way. Just move the black probe to the negative side of battery. Move the red probe to the machine frame, where the negative cable attaches to the machine,  or the starter housing. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts.

 

The voltage on meter will only display briefly. Anything greater than 0.5 volts indicates a bad connection in the section being tested.

 

Best of luck. Let's us know what you find out.

[motojoe]

Check your connections and it is probably your starter solenoid.

[jcbigg]

I appreciate all the advice and assistance. It was actually a faulty battery. Even though the battery reads 12.47 volts on the meter, it drops below 9 volts when trying to start, which alerts a defective battery. To test I jump-started the UTV with a spare car battery I had it started right up. Thank you to all who replied to my post.

[Greg Kilgore]

Cool. Glad you figured it out.

Could take battery to AZ. Have them charge and do a load test on the battery. Could be the start of a starter dragging. And the extra cranking amps of the bigger car battery compensated for it. Just for an extra peace of mind.

Or just could have been a bad battery.