Greg Kilgore

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you hit everything and then some. The only thing I didn't see was adjust the valves. And fuel filter. my fuel filter looked as if the ends where the hoses connect had been dipped in paint. Then the fuel caused the paint to flake off. Had some rather large paint chips come out of factor filter after only a few hundred miles. I replaced and got a new injector but haven't replaced the injector yet. That was literally 1000 miles ago. Only major issue I've had with mine was the rear driveshaft. The part on the engine/transmission that the driveshaft attaches to is referred to as a cup. The rear driveshaft has splines that slides into the cup. The splines in cup and on the shaft chewed up. But was able to put in 4 wheel drive to limp back home. Was quicker to get replacement parts off Amazon then wait for the mobile tech. That was at the 500ish mile mark and I've got over 2500 now. Mostly 1 lane blacktop and dirt/gravel road. But a little off-road trails. Nothing too ridiculous. Wife doesn't like off-roading. Hope you get it figured out.

I put a cheap cab enclosure on my Axis this winter. I had to remove my mirrors to install enclosure. Would have to either cut hole in enclosure for mirror or leave them off. I left them off. I ordered a $30 backup camera with monitor and installed. Plugged into 12v power port and powered both the camera and monitor. Ran cable up around rollcage. In a couple of weeks I'll take enclosure off and put mirrors back on. But I think I'll keep the camera.

Hello and welcome to the forum. Don't know where to locate a shop manual. But they're a lot of people on here with knowledge about rebuilding. Just ask questions. Someone should be able to help. The banshee, Coleman's, Axis and others are all re-branded Hisun with different plastic. Just a few small changes from brand to brand.

Reset the computer. Easy to do. Procedure is 1. With machine off. Turn key to "ON" don't try to start. Listen for the fuel pump to kick on. 2. As soon as you hear fuel pump kick on. Turn key "OFF". 3. Do the cycle of "ON" "OFF" 5 time within 30 seconds. Making sure the fuel pump kicks ons each time. Do NOT start the machine. 4. After the 5th "ON/OFF" cycle. Leave "OFF" for 30 seconds. 5. Start the machine as usual. Also always when starting the machine. The correct procedure is as follows. A. Turn key "ON" B. Listen for the fuel pump to kick on, build up pressure, and kick off. C. Turn key to "START" Hope this helps.

Use conventional NOT synthetic. Synthetic will cause the clutch to slip and not grab especially if it's a high mile machine.

From Coleman 400 manual. From Hisun 500 manual. Also found out why some oils "meet" the JASO MA or JASO MA2 requirements and some are "certified" . To get "certified" and be able to use the JASO MA symbol. Oil makers send oil to labs to get tested and pay big bucks so the can use the symbol that states their oil is "certified" If their oil "meets or exceeds" then oil makers have their in-house engineers look up the specs and match it. No outside labs confirms it.

I was going to say the connector in the glove box may be for a winch remote. But seen that control in one of your pics. So I not sure. My CFMoto had the winch hookup there. Maybe that is the power out for your aux power switch. IDK. Downloaded the manual for your machine from axis website. The screenshot above says the digital readout is for Odometer, Trip, Hours, Clock Screen shot shows a mode button on the left, and set on the right. So I'm just guessing the mode will cycle thru the od9, trip, hrs, etc. Probably a long hold on mode will allow setting the click. Don't know cau see mine is a little different. But if you look under the numbers, the mode should be lit up. Hope this helps.

I've seen people make a frame from aluminum stock. Then go to an actual glass shop and get a windshield made to fit the frame. That is the only think I can think of.

Rainman, Here are some of the posts. Pics included in them. https://www.utvboard.com/topic/13490-coolant-temp-volt-and-oil-pressure-gauge/#comment-53640 https://www.utvboard.com/topic/12598-cooling-fan-not-just-for-radiators/ https://www.utvboard.com/topic/13070-axis-air-box-elimination/ https://www.utvboard.com/topic/9395-2022-axis-same-as-hs500-seat-adjustment/

I did buy the cable and downloaded the program. I just haven't had time tinker with it. It's running fine. Got the thing paid off last month. Have over 2500 miles on it. Kinda acts like the CVT belt needs a little love. (When it gets a little warmer outside). Other than the rear drive shaft issue I had last year and the fuel filter. Have done nothing except change oil and added fuel. I did add a few things that I just wanted to. LED lightbar, temp gauge, volt gauge, dual overhead cab fans (going to downsize to just one). Have some things left to add/make/move. Like doors, heater to install(got it just need to find time), oil pressure gauge(got it just need find time) upgrade the charging system, move air intake to under hood, sound deadening under center console. Windshield wipers got one but it's a POS manual. Going to add a power one. Sound system. Whip lights. I'm tired just listing and thinking about it. 😂 Then maybe a shim to get a little more power and then the computer thing. By them will probably need tires. 😂 Sorry to ramble. But if I do mess with the computer I'll post and ask a ton of questions. Y'all be careful and have fun.

It's not hard to wire them up yourself. How do you want to turn them on. I have a single light bar on front bumper. When I turn on main headlight switch AND bright, aka high beams, led lightbar is on. Dim lightbar is off. I don't have a individual switch just for the led light bar. Easy to do. Just need a little wire, a relay, some crimp connectors, few zip ties. If you want an individual switch to control the lightbar. Need the above plus a switch.

My Axis 500 has a remote oil cooler attached to radiator. Metal oil lines from engine, up to top of radiator, then rubber hose from there into the oil cooler. If the Massimo is similar guess you could add a remote oil filter from those hoses.

Other than what Ben1098 posted, you could try to take both radiator hoses disconnected from radiator. With front of machine raised. Pour antifreeze into one hose until it comes out the other. OR with front raised, Disconnect the top hose. Leave bottom hose connected to radiator. Pour antifreeze into radiator until it comes out the top hose. Then reconnect the top hose.

Try resetting the computer. Turn key on/off 5 times within 30 seconds. Making sure you hear the fuel pump kick on each time. After the 5th time, leave off at least 30 seconds. See how that works for ya. Could try changing fuel filter. My OEM filter had paint chips inside it. Could try replacing the fuel injector. ( I still need to do that) Try cleaning the air filter.

99% sure the belt would make a grinding sound. Were you in 4-wheel or 2-wheel drive? Kinda sounds like the rear drive shaft. Kinda sounds like "the cup" and "drive shaft" have stripped teeth. Look at the pics on a post I made about the drive line on my Axis 500 to see what I'm referring to. https://www.utvboard.com/topic/10540-axis-500-driveshaft-out-of-transmission/?do=findComment&comment=46068

Rainman, Every now and then my Axis 500 has to have gas pedal pressed a little to start. When that happens. I let it run for 30 seconds or so. Then shut it down. Wait 1 minutes. Turn key from "off" to "on" but not attempting to start. Just until I hear the fuel pump kick on. Then I shut it back off. Repeat this cycle 5 times within 30 seconds. After the 5th cycle. Leave it off for 30 seconds. This resets the ECU. After that the machine starts and run fine. Maybe have to do this once every 3 months. Hope this helps

Here are some pics from my Axis 500 of the light connections under the bed.

I'm going to GUESS the connections for the lights at the back of the dump bed are not connected. There are clip connections there for the light on either side of the bed. When I had to remove my bed, I had to undo the connections. If you are not comfortable messing with the connections. Then I recommend waiting on the mobile tech. After all the machine is under warranty. Or you may want to look there. They are up in a kinda hard to reach place. It's just starting to get daylight outside. I'll see if I can get some pics of where and what to look for. The schematics that Andy mentioned will help troubleshoot.

Rtb1028, Are you talking about the nut that holds the cup on the engine/transmission. I sprayed PB Blaster for a couple of days then used impact. If I remember correctly it is reversed threaded. But not 100% sure. Maybe a propane torch to heat the nut. If your worried about the seal melting. Wrap the outside of the cup with a wet rag. Just heat the nut. Recommend changing the seal also. To help get new seal IN. Place in freezer overnight. Goog luck

Regular car oil doesn't have the stuff needed to keep wet clutch lubed like it needs Just make sure the oil rated "JASO MA" or "MA2". Synthetic or conventional is up to you. I read somewhere that the "MA2" rating is for engine exhaust with a cat and O2 sensor. And I think the synthetic lets the clutch slip more than conventional. If there is a lot of miles on the clutch with conventional oil. Then switched to synthetic. The clutch is more likely to slip.

See if there is a part number stamped somewhere on it. Then goggle the part number. May get lucky.

Possibly the one-way bearing is slipping or warn. That is what hold the machine back.

There should be a rubber O-ring around the fuel pump. Between the fuel pump and tank. Put a little grease around the O-ring. That will help the ring turn to lock. Yes it should be a little hard to turn since you have to compress that O-ring. Once you get the ring started in the locking tabs. Get a brass hammer or solid rubber hammer. If needed you can use a brass punch against the ring. And tap with the brass or rubber hammer. Reason for rubber or brass is those material don't cause sparks. You don't want sparks around the fuel pump or fuel tank. Let us know how it goes for you. Send pics. Greg

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.

I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter. 1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter. And an electric temp gauge. Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow. I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.) Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door. The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it. The voltage gauge . Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.