Alien10

Hisuns seem to be a noisy machine. At least my SxS is, as there are zero sound deadening mats anywhere. Every flat surface serves to transmit engine roar and vibration. Their engines seem to have heavy vibration and that transfers into the frame and then body components. On my 550 UTV, the engine half sticks out behind the cab, and it is difficult to mitigate noise entering the cab. Just a thought here, this won't help with external noise, but you might consider sound deadening under the cab. Kilmat is one brand of self adhesive sound deadener that might help somewhat with noise inside the cab.

I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 and attached the PDF of the Hisun service manual for the 550cc and 750cc models (includes Coleman and other "brand" names using the same basic unit). But these are not exactly the best info. You have to look really hard through about 450 pages to find specifics about the machines, and it many cases specifics are just not there, you have to figure it out yourself. Maybe others have similar manuals for the other various Hisun made UTVs/ATVs. COLEMAN 550cc & 750cc Utility Service Manual.pdf

Kinda wonder if OP's jumper is powering the start and spark circuits but missing something else required to run. Maybe the ECM ? Not a big fan of using jumpers, they seem to create or mask problems instead of helping them. Better to get new parts to solve the problem that needed a jumper in the first place, and install them as designed.

If there isn't enough wire left in the connector to solder it to the red wire end, you might try -carefully- using a Dremel tool or similar to trim back the plastic connector housing around the red wire, just enough to be able to solder it back onto the wire itself. That's what I would do since there seems to be little info available about the injector connector itself. You may have to buy the entire wiring loom with the injector connector included. Not sure this pic is your particular model or part number for the EFI Cable, but $120 bucks is pretty stiff price to pay for a chewed wire!!

Been six months now? Still in the shop disassembled? What parts are needed but not available? Maybe time to start looking for the needed parts on the used market. Post what your dealer needs on this site, maybe someone has them or can offer some help. If this machine is a total loss, maybe get it back and start parting it out to recoup something out of your cost.

Have you checked the circuits with a meter? There are fuses that may have failed, and while I'm not sure about your machine in particular, there may be fusible link wiring in the circuit. That wiring is ofter (but not always) tagged as such so it can be identified quickly. It takes some patience but if the fuses on these circuits are good, use a meter to check all wiring and connectors "downstream" from the fuses. At some point you will find a dead spot where the power fails to continue to those items. Good luck.

Bubba, I thought the same thing. But disabling high speed without the seat belt buckled is in the manual and on a dash board sticker.

It looks like there are water related deposits on the head/cylinder mating surfaces. Those have the appearance of standing water inside the combustion chamber. Same with what appears to be the exhaust port in the head. Was this engine running just before it was torn down? Were there any overheating issues with this engine when it was running? Has it been in storage for a time where water could enter the combustion chamber and sit there before tear down? Often, if coolant gets into the combustion chamber from a failed head gasket it actually produces an overly clean combustion chamber. Your pics remind me of an accumulation of rusty sediment like an engine that's been stored outdoors for a time with water sitting in the cylinders. In any case, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces and inspect them for cracks or nicks. If no cracks, be sure that all mating surfaces are very clean. Even more important, be sure that the mating surfaces, are all flat. Heat warping can be an issue causing gasket failure and unless corrected, will continue to cause gasket failures. Careful use of a machinist's straight edge and a light behind should reveal any dips or warps in the mating surfaces. Also using a known flat machinist's file lightly drawn across the surfaces with even pressure should show any high or low spots on surfaces. Check all surfaces at many angles to insure these are all flat and will seal the new gasket when properly torqued down. If you are familiar with machinist's layout blue, that can also be used to find high or low spots.

Jay: Yes, maybe I'll try to snug up the tube's fit to the frame but leave it removable. I have some 3/16" flat stock that might do the job by fitting in on the outside of the hitch tube then bolting it in. Hadn't thought about the possible interference in maintenance you mentioned, perhaps of the rear differential. Will have to take a close look at how that might be removed in the future if the hitch tube were welded in there. Thanks for pointing that out. Joe: My wife says I'm crazy but I take your point about limited welding in case I find it has to be cut out at some future point. And OH YES!! that battery caution is well taken!! Thanks!!! By the way, have you ever heard of welding on a frame damaging any of the various sensors on a machine even with the battery disconnected? Good stuff here guys, thanks!

I guess that clamp device would work if the hitch's receiver tube was solid and just the draw bar ("Ball Mount" in diagram) was a little loose and rattling. On the Outfitter 550, the hitch's receiver tube (see diagram) itself is held to the frame by a pin allowing it to wobble around, side to side and up and down. What I am thinking is to reinforce and weld the hitch tube directly to the frame like hitches on all other types of vehicles. I can't imaging why they would have designed this wobbly receiver tube this way.

I think the Hisum E1 came with 8 batteries of lead acid variety at least that is what I'm finding as I look at used Hisuns for sale. I am a total novice on EV. Reading these threads is education before spending dollars. I gather that the replacement batteries that are discussed require fewer than the 8 originals to provide roughly the same electrical power, maybe even more with fewer batteries. Hope I'm correct in my interpretation. Just was wondering if I got a used E1 with 8 original batteries how many replacement batteries would I need to plan on and roughly the cost of those. Yes, I'd also be doing 100% of the labor myself. (thanks for mentioning your cost. )

This thread is very interesting, thanks to all who contributed to the huge amount of information, researching a future project I find it very informative. One thing I am missing is the cost of these replacement batteries. I see them all over the the place from $500 to $1200 (USD) each. Can anyone give an estimate of the number of replacement batteries they used and their cost? That might help members make some rational decisions. Thanks again for all the comments.

My 2021 Coleman Outfitter 550 has a rear hitch receiver. It works OK for my towing of junk around the property BUT it is NOT welded directly to the frame of the SxS. Instead it fits into a sloppy tube and is pinned in there by a 5/8" hitch pin. This allows the receiver itself to wobble around to a small degree which can be annoying in some circumstances especially if towing and backing a trailer, it can droop or sway side to side by an inch or two at the ball. . I cannot figure out why they set up the hitch in this way, and am considering welding the tube directly to the frame as found in most hitch arrangements. Has anyone else found this annoying and welded the tube up to the frame? If so, where there any down side to doing so? (Broken frame etc. ??)

I have a 12" NiLight bar out front, mounted on the hood just ahead of my access panel. And 2 pod lights out back mounted on the edge of the roof. Plenty of light in both directions. Nilights seem to be pretty good quality as I also use them on my garden tractor for snow plowing at night. Only thing is if you go trail riding, be aware that branches and brush can snag anything mounted on the exteriors.

Alpha sports came as close as any on a Hisun battery search. But these are pathetically poor CCA rated at 275 CCA. Even a one cylinder engine, I'd want to have at least 350 to 400 CCA for the duty these are expected to fill. Disappointing is the word. Before you suspect your new battery, do the testing, my bet is the starter is failing, but the test will tell you for sure. Good luck.