Alien10

Have you checked the circuits with a meter? There are fuses that may have failed, and while I'm not sure about your machine in particular, there may be fusible link wiring in the circuit. That wiring is ofter (but not always) tagged as such so it can be identified quickly. It takes some patience but if the fuses on these circuits are good, use a meter to check all wiring and connectors "downstream" from the fuses. At some point you will find a dead spot where the power fails to continue to those items. Good luck.

Bubba, I thought the same thing. But disabling high speed without the seat belt buckled is in the manual and on a dash board sticker.

It looks like there are water related deposits on the head/cylinder mating surfaces. Those have the appearance of standing water inside the combustion chamber. Same with what appears to be the exhaust port in the head. Was this engine running just before it was torn down? Were there any overheating issues with this engine when it was running? Has it been in storage for a time where water could enter the combustion chamber and sit there before tear down? Often, if coolant gets into the combustion chamber from a failed head gasket it actually produces an overly clean combustion chamber. Your pics remind me of an accumulation of rusty sediment like an engine that's been stored outdoors for a time with water sitting in the cylinders. In any case, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces and inspect them for cracks or nicks. If no cracks, be sure that all mating surfaces are very clean. Even more important, be sure that the mating surfaces, are all flat. Heat warping can be an issue causing gasket failure and unless corrected, will continue to cause gasket failures. Careful use of a machinist's straight edge and a light behind should reveal any dips or warps in the mating surfaces. Also using a known flat machinist's file lightly drawn across the surfaces with even pressure should show any high or low spots on surfaces. Check all surfaces at many angles to insure these are all flat and will seal the new gasket when properly torqued down. If you are familiar with machinist's layout blue, that can also be used to find high or low spots.

Jay: Yes, maybe I'll try to snug up the tube's fit to the frame but leave it removable. I have some 3/16" flat stock that might do the job by fitting in on the outside of the hitch tube then bolting it in. Hadn't thought about the possible interference in maintenance you mentioned, perhaps of the rear differential. Will have to take a close look at how that might be removed in the future if the hitch tube were welded in there. Thanks for pointing that out. Joe: My wife says I'm crazy but I take your point about limited welding in case I find it has to be cut out at some future point. And OH YES!! that battery caution is well taken!! Thanks!!! By the way, have you ever heard of welding on a frame damaging any of the various sensors on a machine even with the battery disconnected? Good stuff here guys, thanks!

I guess that clamp device would work if the hitch's receiver tube was solid and just the draw bar ("Ball Mount" in diagram) was a little loose and rattling. On the Outfitter 550, the hitch's receiver tube (see diagram) itself is held to the frame by a pin allowing it to wobble around, side to side and up and down. What I am thinking is to reinforce and weld the hitch tube directly to the frame like hitches on all other types of vehicles. I can't imaging why they would have designed this wobbly receiver tube this way.

I think the Hisum E1 came with 8 batteries of lead acid variety at least that is what I'm finding as I look at used Hisuns for sale. I am a total novice on EV. Reading these threads is education before spending dollars. I gather that the replacement batteries that are discussed require fewer than the 8 originals to provide roughly the same electrical power, maybe even more with fewer batteries. Hope I'm correct in my interpretation. Just was wondering if I got a used E1 with 8 original batteries how many replacement batteries would I need to plan on and roughly the cost of those. Yes, I'd also be doing 100% of the labor myself. (thanks for mentioning your cost. )

This thread is very interesting, thanks to all who contributed to the huge amount of information, researching a future project I find it very informative. One thing I am missing is the cost of these replacement batteries. I see them all over the the place from $500 to $1200 (USD) each. Can anyone give an estimate of the number of replacement batteries they used and their cost? That might help members make some rational decisions. Thanks again for all the comments.

My 2021 Coleman Outfitter 550 has a rear hitch receiver. It works OK for my towing of junk around the property BUT it is NOT welded directly to the frame of the SxS. Instead it fits into a sloppy tube and is pinned in there by a 5/8" hitch pin. This allows the receiver itself to wobble around to a small degree which can be annoying in some circumstances especially if towing and backing a trailer, it can droop or sway side to side by an inch or two at the ball. . I cannot figure out why they set up the hitch in this way, and am considering welding the tube directly to the frame as found in most hitch arrangements. Has anyone else found this annoying and welded the tube up to the frame? If so, where there any down side to doing so? (Broken frame etc. ??)

I have a 12" NiLight bar out front, mounted on the hood just ahead of my access panel. And 2 pod lights out back mounted on the edge of the roof. Plenty of light in both directions. Nilights seem to be pretty good quality as I also use them on my garden tractor for snow plowing at night. Only thing is if you go trail riding, be aware that branches and brush can snag anything mounted on the exteriors.

Alpha sports came as close as any on a Hisun battery search. But these are pathetically poor CCA rated at 275 CCA. Even a one cylinder engine, I'd want to have at least 350 to 400 CCA for the duty these are expected to fill. Disappointing is the word. Before you suspect your new battery, do the testing, my bet is the starter is failing, but the test will tell you for sure. Good luck.

Now its 8 degrees F so braved the walk to the barn and opened the battery compartment. Its bolted down into its own well, and must be completely disconnected and pulled out to see anything but the top of the battery. The only thing I can see on the one side is "Maintenance Fr....." (Free). There is no info visible without disassembly except an etched number on the top of the battery. HL1316S0851 and that produces nothing on an internet search. Maybe its just my battery's serial number. These appear to be motorcycle type batteries, which is deeply disappointing given they have to start in cold weather, wet weather, run lights, and a winch. I guess the only thing to do is take measurements, so a replacement will fit, and search for the strongest battery available that meets the measurements. Or find a larger, alternative battery location elsewhere on the UTV and get a heavy duty automotive battery instead. I'm now wondering if I might use the reciprocating saw and "create" more space to mount a larger, automotive type battery. We'll see about that on warmer days.

I think I'd have just hauled it back to TSC on day one when if failed, and dumped in in front of their entrance with a "TSC JUNK WARNING" sign on it. When the manager came out I'd get my money back, take my sign down, and happily move it behind the store for him. Although its too late, initially TSC can't really hide from being the seller, they should have offered a refund on a new machine that didn't run properly. Just an opinion here.

UTV manufacturers do what they can to waterproof their machines but using them for cross country, or even ranch work in wet areas exposes electrical connectors and electrical components to water intrusion. Whomever manufactured the starters may not have a fully water proof unit and over time they succumb to corrosion or wetted bearings that gradually seize up. Always diagnose the problem before blowing money on a parts cannon. Bench test your starter so you are not wasting money on a replacement if it isn't the issue. Also, re-reading your original post, you didn't mention what the cold cranking amps (CCA) spec is on the new battery you installed. I doubt that is the issue but a starter that is failing will stop even a new battery if the CCA isn't high enough. It still sounds like the starter is failing or failed. Its only 1 F outside and my barn is a long walk from the house, but if I get out there today, I'll have a look at my Coleman Outfitter 550's OEM battery and see if it has any good info on it. By the way, mine is starting to struggle on very cold days too. I doubt if Coleman, or Hisun the manufacturer, used expensive batteries in a budget priced machine. Just saying.

By the way if you need a new starter you can go to Coleman Motor Sports and order one but they are $190 as of today. There is another supplier, Alpha parts that uses the same parts look up (Hisun's no doubt) and was $149 today. Just a heads up, prices vary, so do some research. Hisun Vector 550, same as Coleman Outfitter 550. I see there are other Amazon sellers in the $60 to $80 range but you never know about these knock offs, they may fail when you cant' afford them to fail, like at the back of the ranch and a mile walk back to the barn.

New battery, and was still sluggish. With a new solenoid now only clicks. Its sounding like the starter has bit the dust or is almost done for. Can you remove the starter and bench test it? That will tell you if it is shot or not. On a bench test a good starter should instantly snap to life aggressively kicking the gear out on the shaft. If it isn't get a new starter. Keep us posted on what you are finding. Not only helps you but may help others reading these posts. Good Luck.

Did you try to reach Coleman Motor Sports via their web site contact us page? They might just give you the specs quickly.

I have a Coleman 550 from TSC new to me early 2022. The Coleman manual says "Battery Type": 12v 32Ah. No other info on it.

Congrats on the new to you machine. Didn't it have a fuel filter when you got it? They can be a bit temperamental if the injector gets dirty or low octane fuel. Good luck.

If this is new from a dealer or seller as the 15 hour clock and break in oil might imply, I'd get it back to the dealer or seller to make it right. You should not have to mess around trying to figure out why your new machine run without a lot of warm up. Something is definitely wrong.

Ya, testers can flash even when the plug is shorted to ground internally such as fractured insulators etc. when there is no spark at the electrode. That's why I prefer to see the spark, its color and intensity at the plug tip. Glad you found and fixed it. Happy trails!

Thanks CMS, not sure I will go this route but will watch the local auctions for "boat parts" & see if a good deal can be had. If so, I think I'd give it a try. This is the KFI kit and appears fairly simple in concept. (1st pic). I can easily fab a bracket and mounts for a hydraulic cylinder. I'd use an electric actuator but the light aluminum tube used on most of those concerns me that repeated pressures from the blade in heavy snow would doom them to early failure. Also many use plastic drive gears. One other option might be a self contained 12v pump/cylinder unit but those are kind of pricey too at $300 to $400. (2nd pic below). For now it looks like planning a plow pattern favoring mostly one position with maybe one angle change change just to clean up.

I was also thinking of all the used and abandoned boats here in Michigan ports and storage yards. Most of the speed boats have elecro-hydraulic trim tabs. Had a 18' Sea Ray years ago with those. The trim tabs have to withstand a lot of force at speed. I wonder if one of those might be a solution. Plenty of strength and holding power yet short enough to fit in the push frame easily. Of course a small hydro tank and pump would need to be mounted somewhere in the machine with lines to the cylinder.

My new KFI 60" snow blade sits waiting for winter. Bought it early spring so didn't use it but tested it for function, seems to be just fine except getting out to change blade angle is pulling the set pin, pushing the blade then dropping the pin into the appropriate locking hole. OK under sunny skies and 80F temps, but in a blizzard, may not be the best thing. Looked at the 12v angling kits which are nice but between $700 and $1,000. As much or more than I paid for the blade and install kit. I can weld (poor to fair) and do some fabrication so can come up with a mounting for a linear actuator but most available are really light duty. Anyone have any experience with a DIY like this and what actuator you used?

Yeah that lower gear #1 seems to be out farther than the upper "fan" gear. From the pic it would appear that #1's attaching bolt is spring loaded to force gear #1 into alignment with the upper fan gear. Is there any room behind #1 gear to slide back into alignment with the upper fan gear? If not, check to see if gear #1 will line up with the upper fan gear if you flip it around. I'd be a little careful with torque on that nut, it doesn't look very big. If you can tighten it enough to get the gears aligned, you might try a drop of thread locker on its threads to keep it in place during use. Good luck.

Yes, I agree, I bought mine in January 2022 at a local Tractor Supply, and it has about 80 hours on it now. So far, so good. Been pretty reliable but I only use it for property maintenance so no wide open trail type abuse. Although I have some large hills here that require 4WD to navigate. Got a KFI 60" plow for it this spring so it will take on those duties this winter. I may try to install a manual oil pressure gauge this fall just to be sure pressure is built. I just don't know if the ECM is fed by one of the sensors on the engine. I guess I could get in there with a light and a mirror to see if there are any block mounted sensors that might be oil pressure related. The only thing I could find in the tech manual is how to test for the required 9.2 lbs of oil pressure at 1,500 rpms. All that procedure tells us is to watch for oil leaking from the loosened oil gallery bolt. How to and where to hook up a pressure gauge is no where to be found. The whole manual is as if written by 12 engineers with a severe language barrier between them all.