Alien10

TYPO: "...despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014." It was set up November 2024

Maybe all are aware of auction and equipment sales scams. On another forum, I've done some research on scam auction sites for big ag equipment and have noticed that it has spread to autos and smaller stuff in the past year or two. One was very sophisticated, including stolen IDs of known persons giving rave reviews of the auction site many going back several years to lend credence to the fake site. The site was in fact less that one month old. The business address was a storage facility with no signage with a couple being just high rise office buildings. The three I've looked into have used this three initials plus "auction.com" format or similar. "XXXauction.com". Ran across a new one 2 weeks ago in Craigslist. Had some nice cars and trucks at auction, but visiting their auction site, the all too familiar red flags were all there and despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014. First big clue and giant red flag is the prices shown. Usually 40% of what the equipment is worth, maybe less. Red Flags: Prices are exceptionally low. Absurd delivery fees ie; 60 cents per mile, or $500 flat fee, anywhere in the US. Moped or Army tank, all the same. Some buttons on site do not work. Auction closes shortly. Terms of payment always requires a wire transfer, no checks, no credit cards, only wire transfers. (Once a wire transfer is sent, there is no recourse, you can't get it back or get a refund). You get invoiced with remittance bank account numbers to wire your money to. Photos are stolen from legitimate sellers or auctions. Often past sales and past auctions. Inability for you or your rep to inspect the machine. Try calling and arranging an inspection, they won't do it for dozens of reasons. These scammers award "winning bid" to literally everyone who submits a bid. They send an invoice with remittance directions. Once you wire them money you even get a receipt. Then comes days of emails back and forth to set up the so called "shipment" of your equipment. Of course that will fizzle out in a few days. By then your money is long gone offshore and you will not get it back or get anything for it. Just think of how lucrative this scam is. Lets say a high end UTV all decked out shows on an auction closing tomorrow. Nationally, they get 67 bidders all of whom get their "winning bidder invoices" and pay by wire transfer. Lets say average of $14,000 per bidder. That's $938,000 on one fake auction UTV that no one will ever get. Do this in 10 auctions in a week, do the math!!! I've seen agricultural combines sold this way for around $89,000 to $100,000, How many winning bidders...no one knows. But multiply that by 50 or 60 winning bidders. Get the point? Don't fall for this stuff, it is created, dies out, then gets recreated every 30 days or so. Don't become a victim.

You could try to pressurize the combustion chamber with compressed air while at or near TDC (so valves are closed) to see if your bubbles still appear at the coolant filler neck. Try to keep the coolant tank opening as high as you can get it. By the way, you said the compression pressure went from 120 lbs to 105 lbs over 15 minutes. Rings are not great at holding pressures for that long. In fact my initial impression is that losing only 15lbs of pressure over 15 minutes is pretty remarkable. Wonder if you repeated that compression test if you'd see bubbles in the coolant. Ah, maybe you're right, and the head gasket needs to be replaced. Just trying to save you some heartbreak if that isn't the issue. In any case, good luck, and please if you resolve this issue, let the forum know. That's how we all learn.

A little pressure in the radiator after sitting a few days would seem to preclude a head gasket failure between the combustion chamber and the coolant jackets. Pressure would push coolant into the cylinder or if failed between oil and coolant, into the crank case. Also when running, a head gasket blown into the cooling system will certainly provide pressure into the cooling system and exiting at the open radiator fill. There is a tester that will analyze the coolant to see if combustion products are contaminating it. Not sure if you can borrow one of these from a local auto parts store or not. There used to be a radiator air pump that you'd use in place of the radiator cap. Pump up pressure in the cooling system and watch the pressure gauge to see if it holds or bleeds off. In your video, the bubbles are somewhat consistent in volume over the course of the video with the engine idling. What happens if you raise the RPMs while watching the coolant in the radiator? Do the bubbles increase in volume as you would expect if it is coming from a head gasket leak into the cooling system. This is more of a guess on what you've found so far, but maybe there is still a big air bubble somewhere in the cooling system that is slowly percolating up as the pump is pumping the coolant.

Couple of other thoughts... A head gasket can fail to the oil passages, to the coolant system, or to the outside air. Are you getting excessive crank case blow by? Is there any external compression leakage? Are you getting combustion gases in the coolant system? Cap off coolant system shouldn't be expelling gases or pressure. Has the coolant level dropped or increased? Does the coolant appear to be contaminated in any way? (Oily, brownish tinge etc.) Just a few things that came to mind. Good luck.

Compression test clarification question. Did you get 120lbs that then bled down to 105 in 15 minutes of sitting? Or did you do a second test 15 minutes later and only got 105lbs. Remember, rings and pistons are not complete seals, they all naturally leak. Max compression is only required to be present during the power stroke, and for a fraction of a second. If there's no coolant in the oil, what else has convinced you of a failed head gasket? You might consider additional testing before tearing into the engine.

Thanks for posting the solution, that is what really helps others on the forum!!

Ridge Runner, I have to confess I got it from a YT video posted by a Hisun dealer in PA who said to be sure to put the pressure on it every time until you hear/feel that faint click so it wouldn't pop out of low. Haven't had a pop out since doing that.

Gorj, Any chance you can share what brake line/switch you bought? I'm tired of trying to toss a 4x4 under a wheel on a slope while holding the brake pedal down to keep from rolling away.

If the N light remains lit when in gear, you need to adjust the cable. Seems like you are not getting enough on the shift toward forward gears. Sensor still thinks its in neutral.

Forget about keeping critters out, they will get into just about anything you erect for storage. Harbor Freight's canopies are where you need to go. By the time you fiddle around with tarps, pipes, and ways to secure the tarps, why not just get the canopy that has a roll up door and room for your machine, and other stuff too. 10x10 is $179 10x17 is $229. You probably spent somewhere around $8,000 to $9,000 for the UTV, buy something to keep the weather off of it.

My 550 is also difficult to shift but more often into reverse. I find that hard on the brake sometimes will let it move easier into reverse. These cable driven shifters are not exactly great that's for sure. Is the idle set too high? Might check that if it moves at all when you do get it into gear.

I think this silly little E brake system is the same on the Hisun (Coleman 550 in my case) ICE powered models. Same issue of zero E brake after a month. Your original description of how to adjust is just perfect. I'm going to give it a try since there is really nothing in even the tech manual about it. Thanks for posting it.

Still if you are getting the rough running and sputtering, look into the condition of the fuel injector. They are prone to problems. In any case good luck, hope that oil remains in good shape.

Ah yes I see. Good advice for OP too.

Me too, low is plenty of speed on the dirt road I live on and the higher revs lets the engine breath deeply without excessive RPM on those short trips. It also has plenty of power for the 35 degree, 200 foot long incline up to my barn loaded with cut logs. One other thing I do is keep hand pressure on the shifter as I press the gas to get that final "click" into low. Happens about 75% of the time and it is an almost imperceptible click, but it is there. I don't get any popping out of gear either. Thanks for the comment on your experience so far.

Do I understand from post #15 that the exhaust is dark? Hmmm. That along with sputtering and rough running might suggest a bad injector just dumping fuel into the cylinder instead of the fine spray it is supposed to provide. Hisun injectors are said to be of fairly poor quality with early failure rates. You can see how it functions by testing its spray pattern on a white paper towel. Stream is no good, but a fine mist is OK.

Of course, it has to be more complicated, its the Government.

I use my Hisun 550 (with the Coleman stickers), for general work around my 10 acres of hilly land. Hauling firewood, some dirt and mulch, and debris clean up. Also felling dead standing trees in the woods and hauling rounds out to the barn for splitting/stacking. Here's my question: Those who use their UTVs with towed drag implements or snow plows, have you noticed any issues with early clutch slippage or failures? Or premature belt wear? Other drive line issues?? Thanks in advance for any experienced thoughts and comments.

Sounds like the contractor who assembles for your local Lowes had several to do at the same time. If it was a recent purchase, talk to Lowes and inform them that you have a mis matched tire and need it replaced.

Disclaimer: I am a hopeless tinkerer. Depending on whether the regs specify that the E brake be a separate brake from the regular brakes, what if..... (here goes).... You fashion a bracket under the dash near the brake pedal's mounting arm. Some kind of a ratcheted lever that you could engage with the brake pedal's arm to hold the brake pedal down locking up the brakes. Then a release latch to let it go. Maybe something as simple as a notched arm bolted to the floor that pivots over to hook onto the brake pedal's arm and keep it down and the brakes engaged. ?? Like I said, I am a hopeless tinkerer. 😉

Maybe you got lucky. I'd check it every start up and every shut down. The OEM oil in my Hisun 550 (with Coleman stickers) was a tan color that alarmed me, but when changed it didn't separate and there wasn't any sheen present either. I sort of wonder if they use whatever they have hanging around upon assembly and just ship it with garbage oil in it. Who knows. Good luck hope it stays in good shape. You'll know before long.

One other thought. No telling what was put into the crank case or what may have leaked into it before you got it. Any evidence this machine was in a flood or run in water above recommended depth? Its a low mileage machine on its second owner. Did you buy from a private owner or a deaaler? Can you see if the old oil will settle anything out of it? Give it some days and see if it starts to separate. You can help it by warming it up in a jar then letting it sit for a few days. These are more just guesses on my part.

No loss in coolant but high crank case lube levels? Wonder where the extra crank case volume came from? Maybe try refilling with correct oil to correct level and run it a bit to see if the contamination reappears. Don't forget, if you have a wet clutch system, most UTVs do, to buy engine oil compatible with wet clutch operation. Good luck.

You might check the coolant level and its condition as well.