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Showing most liked content since 09/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
    Hello! New guy from sweden here. did buy a 800 Widebody from 2015! Seems like its an odd utv? Wanted to get tracks to it but everybody said it didn't work. But couln't say why.. Buuuut. it did..
  2. 2 likes
    Congrats on your purchase. I have lots of info on that model. Manuals, tips and advice. check out www.250utv.com and you will find everything you need there. Matt
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    Looking at getting more height out of my Kawasaki Mule. Put a lift kit on it but wondering about putting 28 inch tires or 30 inch tires? Don't know if 30 inch clearance is too large.
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    G'day guys, been awhile since I posted in here, Great to see some of the old faces still here especially Kinarfi. I thought I'd give a bit of support to Kymco as these machines are really gaining popularity now and we are supporting them with aftermarkets parts where we can. Like CF Moto, they have broken through into the North American limelight now. Jeff, I'm not to sure that you know Lenny's wife and I have gone our own ways now and I've hooked up with another partner from Missouri. Kurt Driemeyer has his own company too that builds Body Armor for Kymco's and Arctic Cats. Between Kurt and I we pretty much have you covered for Windshields, Roofs, Doors, Back Panels, Front and Rear Bumpers, Tree Kickers, Bed Rails, Tires, Wheels and much more. So if you need one of these accessories, check out Pacific Eagle UTV, Off Road Body Armor and Powersports Megamall. We cover most makes and models Cheers, Brostar
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    broken yoke ..well couldn't wait for 8 to 10 more days for there delivery . Very disappointed with Hisun in the customer service department. Machine is home with 6 month extended warranty . Not satisfied with machine and service.. I would like to say a special than you to Josh Yocume and Avery . Very professional dealer . Sorry for the problems with your Hisun supplier. Definitely looking for a new machine( if I CAN EVER FIND A DEALER THAT WILL TRADE A HISUN )
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    Just to say Hello. New to group. Have a Cub Cadet 2011 4x4 Tracker. Know absolutely nothing about it, except their parts are expensive. It had a light bar on top which had 4 light fixtures on it. They didn't work. I took them apart and 2 of the 4 lamps had the entire steel holder inside totally rusted out. Looking for some lights for parts but can't and probably won't find, but it never hurts to ask. Am retired tool maker so always messing around.
  9. 1 like
    It's a timing mark. The crankshaft gear tooth with a timing punch mark is lined up with the camshaft punch mark. You should get a service manual to ensure they are lined up correctly.
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    Since there couldn't be much to it, taking that measurement. I would think, that they wouldn't mind measuring that for you. Since you've had them do some other work on this same engine. I'd suggest that you take it with you, and visit the shop. Talk to the guy that you talked to before, about the casting defect/crack. And ask how you'd go about measuring for that shim. Tell him what you don't understand about the procedure. Or that you don't have the tool, whatever. Maybe offer him ten bucks. My guess would be that you'd just use a feeler gauge. Making sure that the crank is pulled forward, if it has any play, front to rear. But I've never dealt with that, and without seeing it in person, I can only guess.
  11. 1 like
    I installed a Maradyne Mm-a1090002 cab-heater in my Hisun. It was a fairly simple install with the most difficult part being to find the proper location for the heater body. It has to be located so that the heater hose, etc is not blocked by OEM air filters, body frame, etc. On my 750 Sector I determined that by centering the heater body a few inches directly below the gauge cluster worked perfectly. The 5/8" heater hose comes out just to the right of the air filter tube. Since the firewall is plastic, I placed a large piece of stainless steel on the outside of the firewall for a backing plate. I drilled a couple of 1" holes in the plastic firewall for my 5/8" heater hose and spliced them into the upper and lower radiator hoses. I spliced the upper heater hose into the upper radiator hose and the lower heater hose into the lower radiator hose. No shutoffs, since I figured I could easily install them later if I need them. I bought 8 ft of 5/8 heater hose and 8 - 1" hose clamps at the auto parts store. Then I bought 2 pex tubing tees 1" X 3/4" X 1" at the hardware store to splice into the upper/lower 1" radiator hoses. The electrical is easy by running the black ground wire and red hot wire to the power supply (cigarette lighter) in the center dashboard. By removing the power supply you won't have to drill large holes in the dash and you have the correct wiring needed to wire the heater switch. I installed another power supply below the front of the bench seat in the middle. I did that because it's easy for the driver to access and it was near the battery box for an easy installation. After I refilled the radiator overflow with anti-freeze, I pulled the Hisun's front wheels up on my trailer with the back wheels on the ground. I did that so the radiator and overflow bottle were higher than the rest of the cooling system and any trapped air bubbles in the heater core would head for the overflow. If that doesn't work, let it idle with the upper radiator hose clamped shut (needle nose vise grips) directing all the coolant towards the heater core to speed things up. Remove the vise grips when the radiator fan turns on and then put them back on when it shuts off two or three times. I have about $175 invested for parts and heater for the project, and my heat laser reads 190 degrees when the heater is on.
  12. 1 like
    Hey all, I just purchased a uses UTV. Im a total noob when it comes to UTV's. I joined the blog because I bought a used 2015 Hisun Strike, but it has no manual and I can't find any info about it online, I was wondering if you guys could help me locate the manual and give me some pointers on being a UTV owner. I don't even know what version of Hisun Strike it is lol. I got it for super cheap, so I said "what the heck, might as well" and bought it. Any advice on where on the forum I can start asking questions? Thanks!
  13. 1 like
    Probably ought to put a bigger bumper on the front in case you hit Sasquatch..
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    silverbullet. Our parts are always low we sell only the best parts original Chery.We do not have to be called we are always at low price. 5% every 100 dollars you save $5 dollars.All are parts come with a 1 year warrant which is important to give you piece of mine.All differentials we sell our taken apart and upgraded with 12.9 headwear.Tig the pins and set back lash.German wheel bearings no plastic only the best you can just look at them and all you see is quality they come apart so you can lube them.Our throttle cables and out clutch cables will have stainless steel cable so no more rust.Should last at least 2 years or more and we stand behind it.We have always had a 10% percent discount for UTV members for 6 years.The cables will be available in 1 to 2 months. We have sold to many members over the years and having given them the 10%.discount.
  17. 1 like
    Thanks guys! That's a lot of info. My friend is selling a used Provantage 4000 with synthetic rope. I will check it tomorrow.
  18. 1 like
    That is another great idea, I would only tell anyone to watch out for cheap "aftermarket" clones as they sometimes have a 'reliability' issue. But if you feel you have a quality one, by all means, install it. The idea is that when it is over, it will prevent liquid from spilling out. You can test anyone of these items by using a plastic water bottle and a rubber tube installed on the bottom end. just turn it upside down, and see if it stops the water from flowing out. If it does, then you are good to go. I just used a higher priced unit sourced from a reliable race source. But there are a lot of good quality aftermarket anti roll valves out there you can choose from. Good luck and have fun! Matt
  19. 1 like
    Hello once again, this time I want to bring to your attention a problem that I found out the hard way. On one of our previous trips to Dumont Dunes, my son had the great opportunity to roll his Hisun Strike 250 at very low speeds, no damage to him or the vehicle and it landed up right as well. but one thing we noticed was that fuel had poured all over the passenger!!!. Once we got back I looked at it and found the fuel tank vent was of such poor quality that it broke at the fuel tank. Not sure if it was from the roll over or just from being made from poor quality plastic. Well, I found a great long lasting repair and wanted to share it with you all. It is something that is found is pretty much most off road race vehicles. I installed a roll over valve in place of the fuel tank vent. I am including some pics to show you. In the event we roll it over once more, the vent valve will automatically shut off the flow of fuel. It has a ball valve in it and when upside down, it blocks the flow of fuel so that it can't pour out all over the persons in the vehicle and have a potential fire! It is gravity controlled. The valves are low cost at about $15 or so. Cheap insurance when it comes to safety for sure. I cleaned out the hole where the previous fuel tank vent was. I removed the fuel tank pump/filter assembly. I then drilled out the hole just smaller than the ball check valve. I was able to reach into the fuel tank to catch any plastic that the drill might push into the tank as well. I used a fuel resistant sealant on the threads as well. I used a 1/4" NPT thread fuel tank check valve with a 5/15 hose barb. This is a much better product than the OEM product. I would recommend every one install one of these for safety if they get a chance. Or at the very least inspect your fuel tank vents. No one wants fuel leaking on them in the event of a roll over.
  20. 1 like
    So here the new i did the honda civic batteries to the system and it solve all trouble. Plenty of amp for starting,utv now stay between 12.5 and 14 volt while dual fan and light is on ,the honda civic batteries almost fit in the OEM batterie box but i prefered to keep the original one connected to the other batterie,i placed it in the back but when i have time i will make a new batterie box to put in 2 honda Civic batteries or just a 1095cca batteries at the Factory place. Fan now run less and really cool the coolant in the cooling system ,they have the required amperage to make it perform as it suposed to be . I have rewired the starter whit top quality wire and top quality connector so now it start quite fast(old wire was inside corrosion) The charging system work really well now they keep batterie between 12.4 and 13.3 volt when all electric is working instead of before so make this mod if you can. Something i noticed is that the exhaust system i not more glowing hard red when running what is quite really good because when the batteries come low due to the overcharge on the electrical system the performance was decreasing due to the lack of amperage and voltage to make good read from the sensor and keep the fuel pump running at the psi it supose to be running i am now able to race against against brute force 750 and renegade 800 on gravel road hehe 😁 and its a fully bone stock unit ,no mods at all ecxept batterie upgrade
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    I've seen a video about it on Youtube. Maybe you want to check it out, you'll find some feedback on the comment section too
  23. 1 like
    I need some motor mounts for my Ruesch 2010 utv. Who handles these?
  24. 1 like
    Want to honor your vets on your facebook page with a UTV? Take this picture and make it your main image to show you care! From our site: https://www.facebook.com/watva
  25. 1 like
    Too bad the photo isn't loading
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    It is a 2015 first year blues I guess....so far so good on this repair . the boys at Yocum motor sports did a good job and repaired things that Wallace tractor did wrong.
  28. 1 like
    Hi, I'm new to the forum and live in Idaho. It's getting colder, so I'm curious if anyone has installed a cab heater in their Hisun? I went to the dealer and they want $800 bucks and maybe more so I ordered a hot rod heater from Summit Racing. Thought I would see if anyone has experience they might share before I begin. Charlie...
  29. 1 like
    It probably is one of the rely's . It was my problem. I have been running mine wired on the one good rely. I just have to make sure the headlights are off when I cut it off or the way I have it wired cutting off the switch doesn't cut off the headlights also. They stay on and I have to cut them off with the light switch. For safety I put in a toggle switch that kills everything. Before that I had someone turn on the headlights while I had it parked just about killing my battery. I was lucky it turned over just enough to get me started again. I haven't replaced the rely's yet because I don't know what caused them to go bad suddenly. I think I may have a short somewhere in the wiring. Looks Like I had a rat or squirrel or rat chew some of the wiring. Works and runs well on one rely, but know I'm pushing my luck. My charging system seems to be erratic since though. Sometimes my hour meter works and sometimes not. When it is working my battery is charging when it doesn't battery isn't charging. I hook a battery tender on it when parked and I haven't had problems with the battery cranking as long as the headlights aren't used for to long. At my age I don't do much night driving. Best of luck!! Will be watching for the results in your search of a fix!! John Taylor
  30. 1 like
    I've driven many different brands of vehicles. The cheaper brands, just feel cheap. That's just my opinion. I'd recommend buying a nice used vehicle, rather than a cheap new one. You have to be honest about what its intended use is for. These can be very specialized machines. For example, a mud buggy, won't be very good at hauling wood. It'll work, but not well. Bigger is better on these things. There's nothing wrong with the small ones, but the bigger ones hold more stuff. So unless you're wanting mud specific, or putting it in the back of a pickup...get a full size machine. Probably most important of all, is parts availability. Buying a recognized brand will be the best for this. If I were buying a used machine, I'd look at a Polaris, or Kubota, for the bigger ones. Especially the Kubota diesel. And I'm definitely not a fan of computer controlled units. So older just makes sense to me.
  31. 1 like
    Getting a battery tender sounds like a good investment. Besides, it is not expensive.
  32. 1 like
    Fuel pump getting low voltage. Changed out relay still the same.
  33. 1 like
    Just want to add cannonpower and countrycat.
  34. 1 like
    I bought a used Ruesch UTV side-by-side last winter. Never really used it until this spring. I'm struggling to find a resource for parts as I noticed that three out of the four motor mountskills are broken. I have some other issues. Does anyone know where to find parts for this?
  35. 1 like
    Come check out my NEW website http://utvforum.proboards.com/ It's a new baby/beginner site for me! We have sections set aside specifically for Kawasaki, Polaris, Joyner, Honda, Polaris and John Deere! AND CHECK OUT OR NEW TWITTER PAGE TOO! https://twitter.com/?lang=en You can also find our website link there too! BIG shout out to @Alex for letting me put this on here!
  36. 1 like
    Check out also the Honda Pioneer 700.
  37. 1 like
    I have a 2014 massimo alligator and was wondering if anyone could tell me if it has a governor of some way to increase the speed for climbing hills?
  38. 1 like
    You'd need one with an air conditioner down there in conroe Travis.
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    Hi i have read your stories and i own a motobishi raptorex 2011 800cc (hisun strike differently named) Hisun brand its part of the ghanzou automotive that own cfmoto,odess, hisun and few other brand of utv. Check at cfmoto dealer for part. All driveline parts will fit on the hisun. It is what i have do on mine before it break and i never touched it again. The problem whit the yoke on hisun utv is a cast material and machining issue. If you are good in mechanic you can flip the coin and do brp, shaft and yoke upgrade (just need a good drive shaft shop to make new drive shaft
  42. 1 like
    Hello everyone, I'm doing a study on the side-by-side/UTV market and I'm interested in your opinions. It's extremely quick and anonymous and I’d be happy to share the results with the community. Also, as a small token of my appreciation I will be having a drawing among respondents for a $50 VISA giftcard for those interested. It's not much but the most I can offer as a one person team. Questionnaire Link: https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/utvboard1 The research isn't for any of these companies, I am just curious to see the opinion of the brands and new models. Thank you very much for your help!
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    I've heard many that seem to be true
  45. 1 like
    no country has ever remained as it is, always change. I'm sure in future separations are inevitable. Money drives everything.
  46. 1 like
    don't kid yourself many here would like to escape from Lib. hell. Canada will break up if this crap up here continues
  47. 1 like
    all we need now it Trudope strapped in a UTV with a rocket pack jumping the Grand Canyon. He's so full of himself I bet he'd try it, once lol
  48. 1 like
    and Canadians have a poster boy narcissist. Only in a nightmare did I ever think he could get elected. Of course the Liberal leader race had the winning candidate step down, I bet a lot of $$$ was paid to him to do this. Second place Trudeau got it. All he cares about is selfies and being noticed. I can't help but think what other world leaders think of this maniac.
  49. 1 like
    Well my unit is well out of warranty, but most of my problems have been minor. Mostly loose nuts and bolts and the main gauge is not working properly. But like any manufacture they all offer very limited warranty due the off road nature of them. Lucky me I am a master mechanic and happen to be able to repair most of the problems myself. I really don't have a dealer near me that makes it easy to take it to. Having to do a lot of the repairs myself has also taught me alot about the Hisun UTV's. Overall I am happy with the product and performance. I knew going into it what I was getting into and really have no regrets. Glad you were able to work things out. if you ever have any questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help you out.
  50. 1 like
    Hello there, Here I hope to help those who have not yet replaced their CV belt on the Hisun Strike 250. I have done this and found the short cuts for you. It is not a 5 to 10 minute job, so if you ever find that you need to replace the belt, get ready for some work. 1.) First off remove the seats, they are easily removed by sliding them forward until they simply come out of the tracks. 2.) Second, remove the seat track brackets and put them aside, this is to access the lower cover and battery box. 3.) open the battery cover and disconnect the battery. You should remove the battery at this point and place it in a safe area. 4.) you will need to remove the two covers on the right and left inner rear fenders. They are forward of the rear wheels and they will give you access to some vital areas. They are held in by some phillips screws and at least one 10mm nut. 5.) pull the battery wires out of the battery trey, also at this point disconnect the ECU and the regulator. The reason for doing this is that you will have to remove the large plastic cover under the seats and engine. Don't forget to remove the engine cover, it is held in place by two plastic turn screws. I have included a pic of the plastic area for you to better understand. Item 19 is the battery cover, Item are the two rear plastic covers by the rear wheels that need to be removed. Item 16 is the actual engine cover, and item 22 is the large plastic lower cover that needs to be removed to gain access to the engine, cover and fuel tank. 6.) you will need to undo the lower 4 point harness points and simply flip the seat belts back into the rear cargo area. 7.) USE CAUTION WHEN REMOVING THE LARGE LOWER COVER!!! it is brittle and will crack or break with little effort. ( trust me I know ) After you remove the large lower cover and wipe the sweat from your brow lol. you can now gain access to the engine, the clutch cover and all the needed parts to remove the CV belt. 8.) You will now need to remove the cross over bar that the seat belts were connected to. It is held in place by two 10 mm bolts on each side. Note: you will have to fiddle and find a way to get it out from behind your intake. I simply removed the two bolts holding my throttle body down and then covered the intake tube to prevent anything from getting into the engine. I had to also remove the throttle cable as well. You will need to do this in order to get the fuel tank out of the way. This is the ONLY way to get to the CV belt cover. I have tried many ways. 9.) The one thing I did do at this point, is take the large lower cover and cut it in the middle. This did a couple of things for me. It make removing and replacing it easier, and it also make it so I only needed to remove one side at a time if I so needed. It has not caused me any problems since. I cut it right along the edge of the center on one side. Just my 2 cents here. 10.) At this point, you'll need to remove the two bolts holding the fuel tank in place. Take care to understand, if the tank is full, you might have to remove the right side cover, as you cannot remove the fuel tank with the fuel cap on as the hole is not large enough. And pulling on the plastic might end in a broken part. You will not have to disconnect the fuel line, as you are only pulling the fuel tank up and out enough so that you have access to the clutch side cover. NOTE: take pictures if you are not real sure of how things go back together. This always helps. 11.) go under and remove the skid plate covering the rear engine area. this will give you access to the lower bolts needed. This would also be a great time to do an oil change, as you are already there. 12.) With the fuel tank up and out of the way, you know have access to the right side clutch cover. FINALLY! You can now remove the 10mm bolts holding it on. 13.) Now, following the factory manual, you will need to insert two 6mm threaded bolts and screw them down on the rear clutch face. There are two threaded holes on the face. This will force the clutch open and allow the belt to relax in its position. Now, with it loose, the manual says you can simply slide the belt off and replace it with a new one after inspection. I have found that this is not the case at times. I have had to at times remove the forward clutch assembly. As it is easier to access the 17mm nut than the rear one. Once I pull the front clutch off, the belt came right off! WHEW!!!!!!! 14.) Now, just replace the belt and do everything in reverse lol. I know it sounds like a lot of work, and believe me, it is. But it does a couple of things here. One, you won't need to replace this belt very often as there is not a ton of torque on it. Second, it gives you a great knowledge base of your unit, and having this is great when you are out and something goes wrong. Third, if you find anything loose from the factory or not in spec, now would be the time to correct it, now when you are stuck in the dunes or in the back woods. All in all it will take a couple of hours to knock it out if you know what you are doing. I would plan on an nice Saturday or Sunday to get this done as it does require your time and energy. I will post some other how to files soon, if there is anything you would like to see, just let me know and I will try to do that first. Matt
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