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if i cannot see, feel, operate a piece of equipment, i am not interested..............

Thanks. I need a passenger side seat also. Been watching Marketplace but nothing yet. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a new one. Won't do that until I get it running.

Welcome, to the board. In in Eastern, KY also. Not any local authorized repair shop around here that I can find. Haven't tried any other place. Since it been down for a while. Charge the battery. Then check for spark. Check for any loose wires and connections. I changed the oem seats in my Axis 500, replaced with seats from a RZR from ebay. I made the seat base and they fit pretty good. I gave 1 of the seats to a guy up the road for spreading some dirt in the driveway. Gave one to my brother to replace a seat on his mower. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

All you can do is be honest with them. Tell of any trouble you've had and how you've fixed them. Tell them to research the name and find out for themselves. As long as your honest you can have a clean conscience. As far as the price and what it's worth. That is up to the buyer. One person may say it's not worth a $100 and another person would give full asking price and not try to talk you down. Whatever the buyer is willing to pay. That is what it's worth.

I'm retired contractor..no more interviews or training for me. No boss to fire me..except maybe the wife. Lol. Spend my time thinking...what fun thing can I do tomorrow? Life is 👍

Congrats!!!!

Been there done that. Got the DD214 to prove it. Still can't be an artist. Said my condition was not service related. LOL Just got a call from the GF at new company. Said he'd send me a list of what to bring for orientation and training and I'd start on Jan 7th. My future is looking so bright I've got to wear shades.

Exactly. When the guys came and picked up the truck. I took multiple pics of everything. SN, items turned on and working, ECT. Then cut CC up in tiny pieces. Even pics of odometer showing miles and fuel gauge. Outside and inside of vehicle and trailer. Did those when I received also. In case I was accused of any damage. When I went to the union the day after I quit. I was told that this Union hall had never sent anyone to that company in over 8 years. Asked it there was anything they could do so this to keep this company from taking advantage of the guys still there. Union said nothing they could do except file a grievance if I wanted my job back. Said no cause the company would still find a way to get rid of me. And if I wanted to to stay there I wouldn't have quit. Talked to a guy still working there the week after I quit. He said the company changed their policy and started to pay drive from the company lot to the 1st job of the day and back to the lot. But that was what the union contract stated in the 1st place. Except the union contract put it as the headquarters instead of company lot. So maybe I did help out the remaining guys in the long run. It has to work out. No other choice. LOL. But really I want to be an artist. Sit on the couch and draw a check every month. LOL

My money is on the carb needle/seat

Alien10 I didn't think any disrespect was implied or intended. I really didn't get offended in any way, shape, fashion or form. I REALLY did appreciate the education on the workings of the compression tester. And truly never thought about how it worked. And as a man that knows it all (joke intended), I didn't read the directions. Or didn't receive any. I've had this for 5 years. And either the directions never came with it or walked away. And if I've offended anyone with the blonde comment, I truly apologize. Didn't mean to. It's just a running joke between me and my wife. Anyway, all good. Thanks again.

I might be misinterpreting the compression test results you've posted. Wouldn't be the first thing I've screwed up this morning! But, most if not all compression testers have a one way valve. That is to record the highest compression pressures it sees during the test. It will leave the gauge at that highest level, even it there is no compression left in the engine's cylinder after it stops cranking, until the release valve is pushed to release it back to zero. I'm thinking that your 130 and 125 pressure readings, after being left for 15 to 20 minutes are just the pressure captured and retained by the gauge and hose? Reason is I've never seen an engine cylinder that will retain 125 lbs of compression more than a dozen seconds as those peak pressures bleed down fairly rapidly through the rings. Those are by no means anywhere near a perfect seal. Your last results would seem to show a bubble was left in the system that you have now released. Great detective work! Maybe its time to just run the machine as you normally would paying attention to the temperature, coolant level and its appearance, and of course importantly, the oil level and its appearance. If you have a head gasket issue, it will soon show up in the coolant or oil being compromised.

@Alien10 These kind of crooks have been around since the street fairs and carnivals. I was involved in pinching one about 20 years ago. This scam sent out faxes with an invoice for something that pertained to the type of business. They had the Yellow books for the whole nation and operated out of 6 to 8 centers around the US. For instance. elec got wire or terminals. Ag equip got filters etc. You would have to work in an office environment to realize how many invoices get paid with just a payables clerk approval. ThaT is why PO #'s and matching is so important. hey sent these out by the thousands and I would be willing to say 50% were paid. Many of these little clerks paid the bill because they were afraid not to if the big boss had ordered it and he got a phone call. Also a big part of using the fax machines was that it couldn't be prosecuted under Federal Law.If they mailed an invoice it was considered mail fraud and the Postal inspectors could track them to the end of the world. I had located one of their office spaces and a tip to the FBI got me a phone call for what I knew. Never found out the outcome but was glad to help. Nothing I hate worst than a thief. Everyone needs to stay diligent on the web. If it looks too good to be true it probably is!

There is nothing convenient easy, or reliable about anything named Hisun..in my experience they are cheaply built, poorly assembled, unreliable, and not backed by any thing resembling warranty or customer service Had someone warned me before buying mine new at Tractor Supply, I would have bought the Honda or CF MOTO

I had a 700cc and working on it myself was not an issue. It was just that I had to work on it constantly after a few miles. It was always something going wrong. It kicked up dust really bad on gravel roads and swirls inside so covered anyone in it with dust. Engine heat was awful and really unbearable even with me trying many things to block or redirect the heat and dust. The engine itself was pretty tough but if you could put up with all the other bad things that went along with it. I would spend a few more dollars and have something you could use with no issues and still be able to resell it and get some of your money back. I'm not a fan of Hisun or any of their spin off brands from my experience. Others may chime in here and say I am wrong and I may be? I hope if you do it you have better luck than myself. You get what you pay for...

9 month update..... My Axis 500 is still kicking. After hauling deer out of the woods during deer season to the first snowfall it's worked well. We had 6 inches of snow in the last few days and the wife and I took it out to play in the snow. It really does well with the regular knobbie tires one it. I could ride all the trail on my property in 2wd H...but it's more funner to crawl along in 4wd L. Pretty much can go through anything. I hauled 6 or 7 loads of firewood with it as well. Having said that it's been in mid teens in terms of temps the last week. Hadn't driven it in a couple weeks and it started right up. The plastic gets somewhat brittle in cold temps. I hit a low hanging branch which cracked the roof. I also broke a tailight and cracked the side panel where the gas cap is. Oh well, stuff happens. When you ride narrow trails in the trees you're gonna hit stuff. Bottom line, I'm still impressed with it.

There is a brake and neutral switch. If the machine is not in neutral, the brake has to be depressed to start in gear. The brake also has to be depressed for the reverse lockout to disengage to select reverse gear. As others mentioned, if the idle speed is above ~1600 RPM it will not shift very well. IF the CVT is engaging the belt at all (i.e. transferring any power to the transmission) shifting will be VERY difficult if not impossible without issues. These machines use a wet clutch to engage a drum that drives the primary CVT clutch. What is the machines idle speed when cold and when warmed up? I do have to sometimes "blip" the throttle right before changing gears for a smooth shift. The blip is useful when i have stopped and the belt hasn't returned to a "free" position.

CSM_Retired, Thank you for your service. Thank you for the comment. Was supposed to have started 1/7/25. At the last minute, this snow storm came in and changed the plan. Depending on what the weather does this weekend, Will determine where/when I start. As of now start date is 1/13/25. We got about 5-6 inches of snow with 1/4 inch of ice on top of that. So company did a safety stand down until weather improved. Essayon

I guess you got a bad build. The only issue I've had is a coolant leak due to a loose hose clamp. No other issues so far. The plow is a sno-way 6' straight blade. Power up/down and side to side. Really nice feature that the sno-way offers that I haven't seen any of the others offer is a power down mode. Most plows are floating or gravity down but this one has a feature that pushes about 300lbs of pressure down to scrape to the asphalt the first pass.

Thanks. Someone has already hung several new parts on it, to no avail. That's how I got it. I can't get it to the shop for another couple of days due to the snow storm, but hopefully by the end of the week.

Here is the Joyner Trooper 1100 now.

If you are a mechanic, off brands may be an option for you. If you are not, stick with the big brand UTV's. I have a Joyner trooper 1100 which I have driven the heck out of and made it do things it was not designed for. I also do all my own work and am careful to maintain it every time I get back from a trip. I have also added crash bars, power steering and roof racks and extra lighting. I have also replaced the fenders with polycarbonate fenders that don't break at the drop of a hat. I also have a Honda Talon, and if I have problem with it, it will go to the dealer. So far so good.

EFI - a new fuel injector has made all the difference.

Alien10, I think this is just the rear differential. The plug is also the speed sensor. It has wires coming out of the plug and a connection for the wires maybe 12 inches from the plug. At least on my axis 500 anyway. I know on my axis 500 the engine oil is also shared with the transmission. The engine oil is also the oil bath for the wet clutch. At least on the Axis 500. BMurph, It is possible that the water was just in the shifter paw cover. Or maybe a previous repair where water got in the oil. The repair was made and it corrected the issue. And the shift paw cover wasn't cleaned. Best of luck and welcome to the forum.

Exactly as Joe said. You have to loose a hose to drain, no petcock. When you add coolant. Be sure to raise the front end. The higher the better. Then on, my axis 500 and others, there's a bleed screw/bolt on the gooseneck on the head. Where the coolant hose connects to the head. Be sure to bleed/burp all the air out. I recommend bleeding there multiple times. Over a course of multiple heating up cycles. If your son did get it hot. Once you have all the air out. Check and make sure there is no coolant in the oil. Make sure there is no bubbles rising in the overflow coolant catch jug with radiator cap on once the engine is up to operating temp. On my axis 500, the temp sensor is on the gooseneck at the head. That sensor turns on the temp idiot light on dash. There is also a temp sensor on the radiator. That one tells the electric fan to kick on and off. Best of luck and welcome to the forum from KY.

Not the same, but I bought a tandem axle trailer at an auction a couple of years ago. No title, just the auctioneer's bill of sale, and the consignment form signed by the former owner. Now, how to get this registered and a plate issued? I went to the Secretary of State's office and got the info needed. Had to get an official weigh slip for it and present that with my sale documents. They explained that they would issue a vehicle ID number or VIN for the trailer. That will be permanent. The registration and plate were issued thereafter as normal. Now, one thing I don't know is if your title or paperwork says non road vehicle, what exactly your state requires to update that to road legal. I know if you apply to have a salvage vehicle title changed to a regular title, the State Police must inspect the vehicle and all repairs made to return it to non salvage condition. Best to go on line or make a trip to your DMV with questions. States love to produce pamphlets and rule books.

Thanks and I appreciate the feedback

Joe, I’m gonna look for a try “One Bite” , so far I’ve spent $800 repairing wire & electrical damage to my ATVs caused by mice in my garage. A friend has spent $4000 getting his John Deer tractor wiring redone because of Mouse damage as well. I am somewhat restricted because I have two dogs and Grandchildren around and therefore need to be very careful with any type of chemicals…..otherwise I would have my Garage GLOWING like a Nuclear Reactor !!

So here is my dilemma, I bought a 2014 Massimo MSU500 eleven years ago from TSC, its never been off the farm, had my share of ups and downs with it but never walked back to the house. I have bought a Kubota Sidewinder and it is a fine machine.Problem is I just dont need the Massimo and would like to sell it but the last thing want to do is sell it (cheap) to someone who doesn't realize what a POS a Massimo can be and can't afford to maintain it. I plan to put it of Craigslist with pictures and description, not sure how to warn potiential buyers without scaring them away. I feel like it could be a great buy for the right person or a terrible buy for the wrong person. I'm thinking $2500.

Anyone looking for a cheap used UTV expects there to be issues..it's not new..Tell them what you have repaired and let them drive it and decide..My 17 MSU 500 is actually better now than when I first bought it..I am sure it won't leave me walking miles home.🖖

Greasing the rear u-joints made an incredible difference.

Honestly she actually pretty great..15 yrs younger than me.. my 3rd. One.

If your wife/boss is anything like mine. I feel sorry for ya' brother.

Thanks

You need to work for the govt to do that🤣

I would also add that it depends on the replacement batteries you select. The company I used (ReLion) had a custom algorithm they made just for their batteries and sent me the file and instructions to flash the Delta Q charger. That was all I needed to make the charger work like before.

You will need the appropriate algorithm from the DeltaQ website (if they have one) you also need to have a way of stopping the charge by integration with the BMS. You can also get a on/ off addition thats from DeltaQ and that enables the ic1200 to be externally controlled by using the temp sensor connections. Follow the IC1200 instructions . Its often really hard to do as the push switch is hard find and a pain to operate

Maybe all are aware of auction and equipment sales scams. On another forum, I've done some research on scam auction sites for big ag equipment and have noticed that it has spread to autos and smaller stuff in the past year or two. One was very sophisticated, including stolen IDs of known persons giving rave reviews of the auction site many going back several years to lend credence to the fake site. The site was in fact less that one month old. The business address was a storage facility with no signage with a couple being just high rise office buildings. The three I've looked into have used this three initials plus "auction.com" format or similar. "XXXauction.com". Ran across a new one 2 weeks ago in Craigslist. Had some nice cars and trucks at auction, but visiting their auction site, the all too familiar red flags were all there and despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014. First big clue and giant red flag is the prices shown. Usually 40% of what the equipment is worth, maybe less. Red Flags: Prices are exceptionally low. Absurd delivery fees ie; 60 cents per mile, or $500 flat fee, anywhere in the US. Moped or Army tank, all the same. Some buttons on site do not work. Auction closes shortly. Terms of payment always requires a wire transfer, no checks, no credit cards, only wire transfers. (Once a wire transfer is sent, there is no recourse, you can't get it back or get a refund). You get invoiced with remittance bank account numbers to wire your money to. Photos are stolen from legitimate sellers or auctions. Often past sales and past auctions. Inability for you or your rep to inspect the machine. Try calling and arranging an inspection, they won't do it for dozens of reasons. These scammers award "winning bid" to literally everyone who submits a bid. They send an invoice with remittance directions. Once you wire them money you even get a receipt. Then comes days of emails back and forth to set up the so called "shipment" of your equipment. Of course that will fizzle out in a few days. By then your money is long gone offshore and you will not get it back or get anything for it. Just think of how lucrative this scam is. Lets say a high end UTV all decked out shows on an auction closing tomorrow. Nationally, they get 67 bidders all of whom get their "winning bidder invoices" and pay by wire transfer. Lets say average of $14,000 per bidder. That's $938,000 on one fake auction UTV that no one will ever get. Do this in 10 auctions in a week, do the math!!! I've seen agricultural combines sold this way for around $89,000 to $100,000, How many winning bidders...no one knows. But multiply that by 50 or 60 winning bidders. Get the point? Don't fall for this stuff, it is created, dies out, then gets recreated every 30 days or so. Don't become a victim.

Alien10, Dude, I'm not blonde, but I never, never. Never thought or realized THERE IS NO WAY on GODS GREEN EARTH a cylinder would keep the pressure. My my my, I should hang up my tools, and just take up knitting. Any leaking has to come from the Schrader valves in the compression tester hose. I'm just doing a leak down test on the hose connection and hardware. Alien10, thanks for explaining this. Making me realize what I was doing wasn't what I thought I was doing. Man, do I feel dumb. Some people shouldn't own tools. LOL guess I'm one. I'm a little (lot) embarrassed. But maybe others will learn from my mistake. I'm still going to jack this beast up in the air and try the bleeding thing again.

I don't need any stinkin TEMU coupons

Good luck..hope it's cured

Thank You

Thanks, Alien10, I need all the luck and confidence I can get. I'll get it one way or another. Well a bit more confused now. I'll list what happened in order. 1. Opened the bleed screw on goose neck on top of cylinder. No antifreeze came out. Couldn't see antifreeze in hole. Screwed bleeder back on. 2. Opened radiator cap. Coolant was a little low. Topped it off. Left cap off. 3. Opened the bleed screw and left off until antifreeze came out. 4. Topped off radiator with coolant and put cap back on. 5. Made sure both of the ball valves were on. So coolant had a least resistance path through the engine. 6. Started engine and let it run for about 10 minutes. No smoke came out of muffler. Did have some "air" come out the hose that broke off the air oil separator. 7. Removed spark plug, disconnected the coil and fuel pump. Installed the compression tester. Held gas pedal to the floor cranked the engine. Got 130psi. (Didn't do the pedal thing during the 1st testing). Lite a cigarette and started the stop watch on the phone. Listened and felt for air at muffler and air oil separator hose. Nothing. Raised the front of UTV about 6 inches. Removed radiator cap. There was a little pressure. But didn't see any bubbles. I drained the overflow jug back down to full mark. 8. So 12 minutes has passed. Compression gauge is reading 125psi. 9. After 16 minutes, compression gauge is still 125psi. I bumped the engine in case the piston is in some way sealing the gasket that I think is compromised. 10. Watching the radiator, still no bubbles, after 20 minutes. Compression gauge is still at 125psi. Can't hear of feel any air at muffler or crank case hose. I release pressure on gauge. Hold gas WOT and crank engine. Compression gauge goes up to 125psi. Battery is weak. Drops to 10.5 while cranking and only 12.1 after. 11. After 30 minutes the compression gauge still at 125psi. Couldn't hear or feel or see air escaping anywhere. Radiator still topped off. No bubbles. Opened the bleed screw. Had coolant weeping around threads. 12. So now 40 minutes has passed from cranking the compression tester the 1st time today. Gauge still at 125psi. No bubbles, or anything. 13. I release pressure from gauge. Removed gauge. Install spark plug. Reconnect coil and fuel pump. Left machine in air. Started machine. 14. Let it run to get operating temp up. Variating the RPM from idle to 5k. Did get some blue smoke, but not a lot. Did have steady blow-by out the crank case hose, even with high RPM. Didn't see any bubbles in radiator. Put cap back on cause coolant started rising when engine temp started to rise. Didn't see any bubbles rising in the overflow jug. Loosen the bleed screw and no air came out. It just weeping coolant. Raised temp to about 150°. Still no bubbles in overflow tank. 15. Turned machine off. Left front end up in air. Will check everything again tomorrow, Sunday or Monday. At this point looks like there was/still some air in the coolant system. As motojoe, Alien10, and Joe Breaux has said all along. But I'm not 100% sure if head gasket is blown or just had air bubble. I'm going to raise the front some more. Then do the same testing and see what happens. As the great Sweat-Hog, Vinnie Barbarino, once said, "I'm so confused." I feel better now. 😂

Merry Christmas to you too. Be confident, you can get this thing back in service. Best of luck.

The TPS does control idle, but other items can cause idle issues, such as a vacuum leak, carbon on the throttle plate and even a timing issue. Unfortunately Massimo doesn't produce detailed trouble shooting information on their UTV's.

I know her. 😂

At least they talk to you... Massimo just hangs up when the hear the word PROBLEM or Warrenty.

Be sure to keep in touch, would like to know how this turns out.

Bill. Let me clarify a bit - my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly & 2006 Kodak “run” but both look like “hell” as a result of both having had crashes & roll overs (when My Son & I use to ride like “nuts”). Now they just get normal trail rides and some farm work....The most extensive work done on both has been “re wire” due to extensive MOUSE Damage - the mice naw & eat the plastic off the wires and hard to keep them away. Both ATVs now have those “green” mouse poison blocks hidden throughout the engine and under the seat. Regards

The price of everything has skyrocketed under Bidenflation.. Price a new well equipped Pickup if you want sticker shock

Ooooh-kay. Video sheds a different light on things. Did you strip body panels or did you get it w/o the wrap? TGhose may not be avai;lab ler and if so yhou vcan probably buy a new u nit for what they will cost you. Sounds like trash in the carb `or possibly the governor sertting is off. When removing carb go easy on the four all thread rods that hold it in place. They strip easy in the manifold .I have a book on that carb, I'll find it and send to you. I've never had to change a jet but the orings may go bad. Did you get the repair manual ordered?