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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Thanks for your replies guys. I might have fixed it. I changed the idle air control valve. That seems to have fixed it although I have only gotten to test it briefly as the temp here is cold. I had forgotten that these fuel injected ones have an idle air control valve. The old one seemed to be stuck as to not feed any air while trying to start the engine. Thanks again and will update thread if appears to not be fixed upon further testing.
  2. 1 point
    The EFI computer sets the fuel mixture based on the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. Since your spark plug indicates a rich mixture and your engine temp reads cold, the ECT may be bad. I have seen this happen on EFI cars. I don't think the ECT is very expensive or hard to change. Might be worth a try.
  3. 1 point
    Here are some pics of the linkage. Seems like they can only get connected one way. Sorry for the delay but It was warm out this weekend so I could uncover unit and get a couple of pics for you. Good luck
  4. 1 point
    I'll try the squeeze idea, thanks! Figured it out. A plastic stud on each side go es down into the floor
  5. 1 point
    Looking at the first illustration it looks like it could also clip into the floorboard. And you would kind of squeeze it in and pull up to remove. If that isn't the case call your dealer.
  6. 1 point
    Go to ebay and search for kawasaki mule 2510 or whatever model fuel pump. It will be an aftermarket drop in replacement. They are all the same up to 2007 and sell for about 15 or 16 dollars. Install new fuel pump with new filter. Make sure to plug hose from fuel filter to connector marked ( in) on pump and hose to carb is connected to (out) on pump. Best take a syringe and prime new pump with fuel into hose from the top of tank. It will save starter and battery. It is normal for pump to make clicking noise. You can also put hand on pump and turn engine over and feel the pump working.
  7. 1 point
    It's probably a dry rotted spot in the line near the pump.
  8. 1 point
    I called Kawasaki customer service on Friday after posting above. The new recall (not posted on the Kawasaki site yet and not the ones listed above by Travis). CS stated that they are waiting on the Feds to approve their recall and then they will get it posted and rolled out. With Christmas and New Years, the feds have been slow to respond. It involves the breather tube and accumulation of dirt, debris, and water on the skid plate. They say they have the fix ready to roll out as soon as approved by the feds.
  9. 1 point
    Finally found the issue when we got the gear casing out and opened up, it would seem the reverse chain had snapped, resulting in no reverse. After much swearing and cursing , and waiting for parts, the new chain, we finally had success. I notice that the grinding sound, which seem to be a problem with a lot of the polarises especially in reverse has now gone. Changing the chain was interesting as there was nothing on YouTube that tells you how to put the new chain on. I had to remove both the bearing and the dog engagement face also the gear-33T, 6 face engagement, once you do this the chain will basically slip on into place, you have to do this, otherwise the chain will not go on. There are some good videos on you Tube that you should watch before attempting to do this. One last thing, check that the gears are engaging and in the right place before putting the gear case back into the body. If I can answer questions regarding this please don't hesitate to drop me a line.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    There's products made specifically for cable lubrication. But once there's a noticeable problem. None of that stuff really works. Maybe its okay for maintenance, but it won't fix a bad cable. A new cable isn't exactly expensive. So that's the only way to go here. Sometimes fishing that cable, or trying to duplicate the routing. Especially after removing the old cable, can be a problem. I'd probably try to tape the leading end of the new one, to the trailing end of the old one. Then work it through. That way it'll go over what its supposed to, and under, or through the rest. Hopefully leaving it positioned just as it's supposed to be. Might work, might not, but it's worth a try. Don't forget that its likely clamped down in a place or two. Good luck.
  12. 1 point
    Didn't think it was the trans. The vibration and grinding is felt even when the engine is off. I think my next move is to take the cable off at the trans and see if the problem is still there.
  13. 1 point
    You'd be better off buying LED fixtures. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=utv+led+lights&sprefix=utv+led+&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_8 We had a member while back ask about a spare rim and tire and he had no luck. Unless you buy a separate rim and tire.
  14. 1 point
    Sounds like too much fuel to me. But spark is easily tested with a spark tester. There's some testers that are even adjustable to test how far the spark will jump.
  15. 1 point
    I've never seen an electrical schematic for the Mule, but if you have one please post it. Me and a couple guys here in the avionics shop will look it over
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