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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    HI, I have a textron stampede 900x & my gauges were flashing on & off intermittently also headlights occasionally. Somewhere I saw to check grounds there are at least 3 .Well the one right of the negative battery terminal was loose,so I wiggle the cables a little bolt head for ground to frame broke off no effort. must have been over torqued from factory. Check those ground it's easy to do. Only problem is bolt thread was broken off in frame, easy fix, get a self tapping screw about 1/8" in diameter and drill it into frame. You have to use the heavy duty ones,like roofers use. I sanded the frame a little also . It could leave you stranded so check them.
  2. 2 points
    Sounds like you've got air in the system.
  3. 1 point
    Thanks for the diagram I will look it over and hopefully it ill have what I need
  4. 1 point
    I put one in my sector 750. It works good but if you are not revving the engine up (mostly idle) you don’t get much heat flowing into cab.
  5. 1 point
    Matt thewrench, I sent you a pm.
  6. 1 point
    Okay, now that we know the engine is turning over slowly, it really only is limited by a few things. As we are sure there is a fully charged battery turning over the new starter, we have to assume the starter is good and the power to the starter is good. Now the next step is to check the engine timing to ensure it has not skipped a tooth on the cam gear. You have already checked the valve clearance at 0.08 ~ 0.12 mm (0.0031 ~ 0.0047 in) 0.12 ~ 0.15 mm (0.0047 ~ 0.0059 in) So if these numbers are good, then its time to check the engine timing. Put the flywheel at top dead center. you want to get the marks to look like this: remove this cover to inspect the timing marks it could also look like the image below Wrench to counterclockwise rotation Align the “I” mark ① on the rotor with the stationary pointer ② on the A.C. magneto cover. When the “I” mark is aligned with the stationary pointer, the piston is at the Top Dead Center (TDC). make sure the mark on the cam gear is pointing straight up and lined up with the mark on the head as in the picture above. then adjust your valve clearance. This will ensure your timing is correct and that the cam has not jumped a tooth, putting your valve timing incorrectly
  7. 1 point
    Update on the swap. Since getting the new engine spun up, and dialing in the Mikuni, we have been putting this buggy to use! After a good snow storm, it proved to be handy to have to go clear broken branches and fallen trees in the area. and on our property. I could tell right away though something wasn't quite right with the CVT, it would 'shift out' and the motor would just wind out (as in 5K+ RPM) too high in other words at an anemic 20 MPH tops. Once all the work was done I learned all about this CVT setup. Here is what I learned, and this should apply to all CVTech PWB50/80 type CVT setups for reference. I did the pen mark on the driver(primary) sheave to see what was up with the primary clutch pully, and it was only climbing out with an inch or more of the pen mark left. So I ordered a new Kevlar belt, turns out the original belt was worn about .032" or more, and the new belt being wider will climb higher up the sheave making it more efficient at least. While I was at it I decided to pull the driver pully off, and clean it up, document the spring, blocks, weight, and make sure everything worked - I suspected it was jamming up on the stationary sheave binding the sheave stroke. But I came to discover these clutches have a "Stroke limiter" ring, that stops the sheave stroke about .250" short of the full stroke. Since CVTech specs these CVT's with a shift ratio of 6.97:1 - (3:1 - .43:1 ratio range), with the limiter ring in there it limits the clutch to a 4:1 shift ratio = 3:1 - .75:1 or so depending on belt, spring, etc. So after reading the service information and some trial and error, mock fitting the belt to the sheaves and checking the belt position to full shift out, I removed the limiter to allow the full shift ratio of 7:1. To make a long story short - not only does it haul wood really well, now it hauls ass! lol The grippy belt with full sheave stroke is a night and day difference. The shift out is slow and mild, but the motor pulls down much better - no more crazy RPM to gain a cruising speed. So for anyone with a CVTech Powerbloc 50/80 (aka series 0400/0600), CVT and you need to gain about ~10MPH net speed increase, worn belt or not just remove that limiter ring. (The REAL benefit of this: will help give the belt more usable life with full sheave stroke, and mellow out the engine RPM) while cleaning the primary pulley assembly -- if you have one of the ASW/Landmaster, BullDog, Land Pride Trekker, etc. utility rigs (not sure what all this clutch setup comes on). I imagine it was up to the manufacture to install some type of limiter or not as the manual says (1 or 0) so it's not needed for proper clutch operation. I don't know why they cripple a fairly decent clutch like that, I imagine for some 'saaaafety' regulation, but it really makes the drive setup very inefficient. Once the weather gets a bit more decent we plan to shoot some video of it running. for the amusement of the five other people that own one of these Has come a long way since dragging it home! Anyway I hope someone finds this tip helpful, especially if you are going through a lot of belts. I attached a diagram showing the limiter and a couple pics of the process.
  8. 1 point
    Valves seam to work fine and it has plenty of spark. And it cracks over real good with no plug but it cracks hard as heck with the plug in it. Its like the starter dosnt have enough curent going to it to crank it over. I've only got 3.4 volts going to the starter and 4.6 coming out of the starter selinoid. I was told it wasnt enough volts to the starter I'm completely lost and have no idea on wat else it can be. Thanks for the help guys sorry it took so long for my reply guys I just got the notifications saying y'all reied
  9. 1 point
    There is a RECALL on certain Cub Cadet Challengers regarding brake failure causing crashes. After having lost 4 days from my 700 being returned to the dealer, turns out the problem was merely air in the brake lines which I could have bled myself.
  10. 1 point
    Just wanted to say hi. I'm very thankful for this forum, because I recently purchased a 2012 Cub Cadet Volunteer. I need to be able to maintain it myself instead of having a shop come and get it. The closest shop is about 50 miles away. I appreciate any and all help and advice! I hope I don't wear out my welcome here.
  11. 1 point
    And the Dog approves too!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    You won't wear out your welcome!! Welcome to the forum! we look forward to your posting and we look forward to helping you!!!
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