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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/27/2021 in all areas

  1. So how can i fix my UTV? " we'll circle back"
    3 points
  2. Better make a bunch. They may need to double or triple the masks.
    2 points
  3. My maternal grandfather (a Scotsman ME) always told us that "...the last time any machine started and ran properly may well have been the last time it will start and run properly." Also, "God created men and they are imperfect--men created machinery, so guess what that makes machines."
    2 points
  4. you know its funny..... we havent had a winter down south like this in 100 years. Biden gets elected and BAM!!! HELL FROZE OVER !!!
    2 points
  5. If they are like these, I'd use a sleeve of 3/4" or 1" steel pipe as a spacer (once proper height adjustment is established) to distribute and shift the load away from the stud and weld.
    2 points
  6. sometimes that can be a sign of an ignition system part failing.. i'm not up to speed on the Massimo ignition systems as to if there magneto and flywheel fired, or CDI off of battery. had a similar issue with a car awhile back, run and get warm and shutoff, wouldn't restart for awhile until cool. turned out to be the ignition coil. after it dies i would check for spark, either by removing the spark plug and reinstalling the wire and grounding the spark plug against the engine and looking for spark, or by removing the plug and spraying carb/parts cleaner or starting fluid down the plu
    2 points
  7. most Golf cart batteries are designed to be capable of discharging up to 80% of their charge, while most deep cycle marine batteries are capable of discharging up to only %50 of their charge. this article may be more helpful, https://www.dixiebattery.com/products/golf-compare
    2 points
  8. 2 points
  9. Hi , I am an enthusiast from San Jose CA, working on building electric utility vehicles. Want to share my learnings and learn from the community.
    2 points
  10. 100% right on the pink junk being Stabil. It’s no help for Ethanol. This is a discussion I have with customers all the time when I test their “100%” gasoline and show them 4-8% ethanol in it. I always recommend the best non-ethanol you can find PLUS an ethanol treatment. Ethanol-shield* and Startron* have both worked ok.
    1 point
  11. Pink stuff in the bowl? That sounds like out of Date StaBil. I've cleaned more carbs for people who've used Stabil than any other treatment. I started using StarTron. Haven't had 1problem with my own equip.
    1 point
  12. My main parking brake cable snapped today, appears to be from excess corrosion. I would imagine this could be a safety issue if you were parked on a incline, thankfully i was done feeding for the day and and had just shut the mule off. Pulled the handle up an *snap*. Now it is 20 years old, so that probably had a role in this, but this thing was crusty. Got the new part ordered from the dealer, $11.91 including Tax. be interesting to see if the cable is galvanized or not. I'd check the condition of this cable if your mule is a little on the older side. 54005-1198 Assemblies whe
    1 point
  13. Unfortunately far too many aftermarket modifications are developed, produced and marketed by people with little to no actual engineering knowledge, skills or even ability who really do not know WTF they are doing ("lift-kits" other suspension "mods"seem especially prone to this failing)...
    1 point
  14. BINGO!--I read this in your first post " has a lift on it " and thought to myself--well there you go... Contrary to popular web-based "fast &furious" opinion, and every now & then, the engineers that design this stuff actually do know what they are doing.
    1 point
  15. No I was not able to find the problem. I ended up wiring the fan directly to the switch so it runs while the UTV is running.
    1 point
  16. will do, really appreciate the quick help...ill get some images up tomorrow, now that the snow and ice is finally melting....
    1 point
  17. I should started sewing big masks for people to put on their cars. Loops around the mirrors, and covers the radiator and grill.😁
    1 point
  18. Must be something going around, lol. Could be it caught it from another ATV. Probably should have been wearing a mask. You may have to quarantine it for 14 days. Given the current administration, this may not be far from possible.
    1 point
  19. That looks kinda bad. If it doesn't solve your problem, it will at least help things.
    1 point
  20. Got the new cable installed. The old cable has green corrosion at both exposed ends. I notice the new cable is heat shrinked on both ends.
    1 point
  21. I damned near cried--and not ashamed to say so...
    1 point
  22. They are built for a very severe duty, high discharge rate, application (which running a trolling motor or a television in an RV ain't), Compare prices per Amp Hour (Ah) capacity rather than by voltage--you'll see the 8 V batteries are actually the same $$ or a bit less...
    1 point
  23. I lived in New England for 45 years (been here in FL for 30)--that was an everyday occurrence in the winter, when I was in Maine it could happen while you were driving...
    1 point
  24. Good question, or "holes in both seats"--we had a "two-holer" at the farm when I was a kid...
    1 point
  25. Had a first today... my fuel pump froze up. It's a crankcase vacuum pump, so there is a line from the crankcase to the pump. and usually you get a little condensation in the tube, and it froze up right inside of where the tube connects to the pump, got some rubbing alcohol to dissolve the ice and that fixed it... probably have to do it again tomorrow. but soon enough the warm air from the crankcase will prevent it for a little while after you kill it. it'd been about 5 hours since i had driven it....
    1 point
  26. 1 download

    Pre-2014 Renegade with the 800cc engine. Much of this may apply to the R4 also. Note to moderator: Please add "Joyner" to the list of UTVs.
    1 point
  27. I'm not moving north EVER!
    1 point
  28. Well, I started it again today after sitting for several days. Cranked right up without a hitch. Guess it was the solenoid all along.
    1 point
  29. all repairs and services have been done by our local cub cadet dealer so i would hope so.
    1 point
  30. So far so good, got around 3 hrs on clock , hope it holds up. Thanks for asking
    1 point
  31. Amp draw for starter motors. The solenoid will draw a few amps in the neighborhod of 5 amps. You can figure how much current it will draw by measuring resistance of the solenoid coil. Divide that resistance reading into 12. That will be the maximum possible amp draw of the coil if it's good. It has to draw enough amps to create a strong magnetic field to draw in the solenoid. Larger car engines will have solenoid current requirement 10+ amps up to 20 amps. But the motor itself will draw 100-200 amps under load when starting the engine depending upon the number of cylinders the start
    1 point
  32. Hello all, In looking for a synthetic line for my Outfitter 400's 3500 lb. Runva winch I ran across this offering from Harbor Freight; $30.99 with 20% off coupon + tax = $26.40--not too bad (please spare me the "Cheap Chinese junk" yowls, where do you think 99.44% of the components of, and stuff we buy, for our toys comes from?). It is made of UHMW polyester with a claimed (and fully believable) tensile strength of 4700 lbs. and a working load of 3000 lbs.--which is in keeping with the specs published by most manufacturers of UHMW rope and therefore much more believable than t
    1 point
  33. They don't. Sorry, but as I said, I have no idea exactly how much it should be. But on my Honda civic, it seems like it wasn't a lot. I don't think a healthy mule starter would pull 60 amps though. That was my point about it might be too low for 60a. tester. But the 3amp, is more about it being useful for automotive needs. And there's not really any trade off on the higher end, for use around the house. So there's no reason not to. As long as it's one of these same knockoff Chinese junk. It'll be affordable. That capability in a major brand would be plenty expensive.
    1 point
  34. If you bought an MSU 500, you will soon see ITS NOT WORTH IT ... Ihave had problems since the 1st day I bought it new. at Tractor Supply .. and Massimo has refused to pay one dime of repairs .. its been in the only repair shop in my state that will still even work on Massimo, 6 times .. and only if you pay cash..
    1 point
  35. So your starter works like an automotive type? Mine is a clutch type, meaning that the flywheel will spin freely in one direction and lock up in the other. So I don't have a gear that kicks out to contact the flywheel, it's always meshed with the flywheel. So whatever acts as a bendix with your starter sounds like it may not be functioning properly.
    1 point
  36. That's a good idea and I believe have a Tester, I'll dig it out. I didn't think about that, I did put a new coil and spark plug on it but beyond getting a spark never checked for it breaking down. Thank you Travis, I'll post how I do.
    1 point
  37. Just purchased a 2017, 750 challenger with 148 hours with one hour on new 2019 engine from Cub Cadet that per invoice cost $4704.28 + tax. That’s almost half of what the whole UTV cost new in 2017. Unbelievable! I have serviced everything as per manual and done the things posts on forum said to do to reduce noise. Has old exhaust and per this forum will probably break soon. Just ordered a new rear window to cut down on dust and air. Plan on taking to cabin we have near Custer SD in Black Hills with US Forestry roads all around us. Should be fun if reasonably reliable.
    1 point
  38. Try tapping on that solenoid next time it happens.
    1 point
  39. I figured you'd seen those. Just thought I'd mention it, with it being currently a topic. It was the moose that I saw. And something from Dennis Kirk, but I didn't click on it. It's probably all the same stuff. But since I didn't know which model, it would've been pointless to search.
    1 point
  40. This is a small engine, with a small engine battery, a small engine alternator (stator). I have never seen a battery sit at 13.6 volts. On a small Mule/atv or lawnmower. 13.6 is great charging voltage though while running. Did you see my post that i got the battery load tested? It was perfectly in the Green
    1 point
  41. It only clicked whenever i moved the key from On to Start, i never got rapid clicking with the key held in start. I got a Amp meter ordered, should arrive tomorrow, i went with a Mid Price range one, rather than the $19.99 deals. If i had to get one one for work and i'd buy a Klein or other name brand, but once or twice i hope it will do fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YWF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B07Z398YWF&pd_rd_w=p1auc&pf_rd_p=14ceaa6a-1e28-4d0f-a108-58cc89c508f1&pd_rd_wg=4xvL4&pf_rd_r=VNZHCJD90WGD170VRJ5E&pd_rd_r=22625a41-1740-4e38-9387-a7058b60
    1 point
  42. Could be the starter's mounting angle. Some cars have shims for this issue. Or maybe an internal manufacturing defect. It could be the solenoid, or the wiring. Or the ignition switch itself. Possibly the relay. One thing that can cause intermittent electrical problems, is the grounding. There should be a braided ground strap, or wire, in addition to the main negative terminal cable. Most vehicles have them for a reason. All this speculation is the reason I mention the amp draw first. That's a real number, and not subject to change with each start. So it isn't affected by anyt
    1 point
  43. It's probably not the cable, but nine bucks is cheap enough to be certain. With something like this it's sometimes hard to tell, unless you have diagnostic equipment. It could very easily be something as elusive as heat getting to the starter. But if you've got a hot battery, which is easy to check. And new cables. That only leaves a few variables left. Eliminating as many things as possible makes finding the problem much simpler.
    1 point
  44. I'd replace it just to be sure. Several clicks usually means insufficient power. So you should probably eliminate some possibilities here.
    1 point
  45. Sorry to disappoint you about the rear "differential" There is NO DIFFERENTIAL in the rear! The rear end is just a ring gear and pinion, If you doubt what I am saying jack up both rear wheels and with the shifter in neutral and the parking brake off, spin one wheel, if the opposite wheel turns the same direction as the one you are spinning there is no differential when you turn, the wheels slide around the corner, both at the same speed
    1 point
  46. For a 16 digit PIN/VIN, the 9th number indicates the year. Hence, in this case, the OP's RTV is a 2006. Which is the same year as y RTV:
    1 point
  47. Aren't fault codes (if found), automatically displayed on the dashboard? Typically with other models, it'll blink a sequence to the dashboard clock, that's then decoded to provide the coresponding code. But even if you find a code reader, I'd be surprised to see an OBD2 port. More likely it's a Delphi.
    1 point
  48. Would your starter maybe cross reference with a starter from another make? Also, maybe take it to a rebuilding site. I have heard that they do a great job, and it's not all that expensive, at least for the automotive starters. That way you know it's actually been rebuilt and not just cleaned up and put on the shelf as a rebuilt unit. Just a few pieces of advice. I'm new to this SXS thing, so if I seem ignorant, I apologize ahead of time.
    1 point
  49. Double check exhaust between head and muffler. I had a 2018 cadet 750 that had a crack that caused the same issue.
    1 point
  50. Once again, worried about the trees ripping lights off. I modified the light bar to make it more funtional, when I need the lights I have them. Did this whole modification for less than $10. Phase 2 of 3 complete for the light mods.
    1 point
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