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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Well that there might be enough to get you through 1 whole night
  2. 2 points
    Also, you don't want dielectric grease on the metal contacts themselves. You want it around the seal of the plug, not on the contacts. The grease itself is an insulator.
  3. 2 points
    I'm curious, how did you check the injector to verify it wasn't flowing? First thing I would do it stick an ohmmeter on it and look at the resistance across the injector. I would imagine somewhere between 5-50 ohms. Then I'd check voltage coming to it during start up to see the "pulses". If I've got voltage, but no squirt-squirt, bad injector. If the injector is pulsing but not squirting, its clogged. Either way, new injector.
  4. 1 point
    The battery connections are perfect and should be on the positive at the solenoid but I'll check it to be sure. I had changed the starter last year. Now I did not check the negative side to the frame, I will check it out tomorrow. Thanks! I see in your picture you have a 550, I have a 550 also, looks just like yours. They are good utvs also
  5. 1 point
    A switch is just that - it let's voltage pass or it doesn't. If the full-time on bothers you with a jumper, just put a $1.99 rocker switch inline with it. Turn it on when you're ready to drive, off when you park it.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    I'm new to this forum. I recently picked up a Hisun "Coleman" Trail Tamer 800 atv that was ran way too hard. I know this is a SXS forum but I'm trying to learn as much as I can about Hisuns and there is very little out there about the ATV's. I have done a complete engine rebuild, replaced the crank, con rods, pistons, rings, head gaskets, base gaskets. cam chains, U joints, front a-arms, replaced all rear pads, repacked trailing arm bearings. Replaced the rear diff with a used one, have a rebuild kit in the cabinet. Put it all together, no spark. Somehow got spark and fuel and it started and purred like a kitten. Pulled the exhaust off to replace the gaskets, replaced the battery and starting relay switch. Turns over but no spark and no fuel again. Have taken apart almost every connection and added grease, still nothing. So jumped on this forum to try and apply any learnings from here to my project. I'm about to pull all of my hair out and Ima already going bald. Any help and input is GREATLY appreciated. 2014 Coleman "Hisun" Trail Tamer 800
  8. 1 point
    Yes, it was the crankshaft positioning sensor. I bought on on eBay for $18 or so. Installed it and it ran like a champ.
  9. 1 point
    Had some help unloading too....lol
  10. 1 point
    Also, the closer a ground wire connects to the frame from an electrical component the less "noise" is introduced to the circuit. Not that big a deal for basic systems but it matters a lot for sensitive electronics like audio and video systems. Additionally, its "safer" because electrical current runs from negative to positive, so the shorter the ground wire the shorter the current path through a skinny wire is.
  11. 1 point
    Ok, well let us know how it works out. Keeping troubleshooting and results active in the forums really helps out other people whether or not they post on here.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks y’all! I took the throttle off and felt inside the boot and it wasnt wet. I then removed the injector from the boot and turn the key on and nothing sprayed. idk how to test for voltage. I assume ground one lead and test one on the prongs for power?
  13. 1 point
    Well 10-4 good buddy
  14. 1 point
    Replace the injector? Or it could be stopped up.
  15. 1 point
    Ok trying again... I have 2018 cub cadet 750. Having clutch issues. Has anyone bought a upgrade for them and where did you get them and about how much. Thanks for any help given. From what i have looked over on here. Lots of nice helpful people
  16. 1 point
    You'll have to check with either local or state government regs. to take It on road to see if you can or how you can make It legal too. https://www.utvguide.net/2016-four-seat-utvs/
  17. 1 point
    Well, how did it turn out? Hopefully not a "lessons learned" story...
  18. 1 point
    Hi my name is Teresa. I have Kubota rtv 400ci. I am from Florida.
  19. 1 point
    Yeah, if it dissolves ethanol tarnish then it will do it
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Well it looks like this carb for a Kawasaki FE290 engine is really common and used in a lot of John Deer Gators, Club Car golf carts, and quite a few lawn mowers. There are a lot of versions with it and seem to revolve around exterior dimensions for the throttle stack height and choke orientation. But the bolt holes and throat dimensions seem to be the same and I bet they'd cross over from model to model fairly easy.
  22. 1 point
    Hi sorry late, I work night shift out of town. Got it figured out, simple just unbolted the gas shocks bolt assembly (not struts). Thanks
  23. 1 point
    Couple things, if the new spark plug was a different heat range, it would affect the idle characteristics. Second, the idle air screw having trash or corrosion will do this. For those that don't understand carburetor fundamentals, the carb runs off the idle air screw from idle to about 2500 rpms. From about 2500 to 3500rpms, it's a combination of idle air and main jet fueling. After 3500 rpms it's all main jet fueling. So, hopefully that helps some folks narrow down their carburetor troubleshooting. For example, idles fine but boggs down at higher rpms, you have main jet issues (the big one that pokes up through the middle of the carb). Bad idle but runs with open throttle, idle air issues (usually a screw or smaller needle type, may be under a thin tin cap that you drill or pry out (EPA thing), up in the front of the carb).
  24. 1 point
    Partzilla has treated me well. Prices are always lower or equal to anything else I've found, and they even comped my last shipping fee because they had to order a part they didn't stock.
  25. 1 point
    Yep, and, the OEM mounting bolts and the brake line flange nut are the right size/thread too. So I thought it was a pretty good find. I might have to try one of these $15 Amazon carburetors next just for fun.
  26. 1 point
    Wow! Thanks for posting that! Even a standard automotive cylinder is $12-$20.
  27. 1 point
    There's the Dorman sandwiched in between the OEM ones.
  28. 1 point
    So the OEM drum brake cylinder is stupid expensive, but I just test fitted a Dorman made for Suzuki ATVs, and it's almost a perfect fit. The 2 mounting bolt holes are just a little off, but nothing that can't be handled by oblonging the holes in the drum back plate. And for <$11, it's worth it. Dorman W37850 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PYV1I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TL5UDbWR61Q68
  29. 1 point
    Like a car, red usually goes on the back and Amber on the front.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Just picked up this exact same Mule for a good deal and then I found your thread here. Good stuff, doing this right now. I may need to pick your brain at some point.
  32. 1 point
    @Travis Thanks Travis, Yes, all figured out and back on the trail again. I stumbled accross https://www.powersportsnation.com/ while looking at ebay ads and found a good condition $40 master cylinder from them. It arrived in only two days. I disassembled it, cleaned it, reassembled it and installed it. Works like new again. While in there I found my brake pedal return torsion spring was broken so ordered a new one off eBay that arrived today for installation tomorrow. All good. Thanks for the follow up. Mike
  33. 1 point
    Yeah, it was the time that was the problem. In the end, it took us a lot of time and frustration trying to save time. Oxymoron, I know!! LOL!!
  34. 1 point
    No chainguide/No V-TEC Chassis weight distribution, it’s science. Why White? Because the 90’s made me do it
  35. 1 point
    Even though it's pressurized, the oil level would have to be above the pickup. Look up brand newengines.com they have repower page that shows you what engines will fit your equipment. Most important is crankshaft pto length and diameter, and electrical.
  36. 1 point
    @Travis Thanks. Yes it is a Nissin master cylinder (MC) with an 11/16" bore. I decided to buy a used MC from an later model Mule. It is diferent than mine in that the push rod is detached from the piston in the MC. On my MC the push rod is one with the piston in the MC which is a bad design as it will tend to cock the piston in its bore during brake application. I am hoping the newer designed MC will fit my 2500 or that I can modify the push rod to work while keeping it detached from the piston. $40 on ebay. I did find some Nissin rebuild kids but these were $40 or more and did not seem to match the components inside my MC. Wish me luck.
  37. 1 point
    Stay as far away from Hisun as you can, fit and finish nice but I bought a truck load and every single machine failed in the first 5 miles and took months to get parts. 5 out of 5 generators failed as well and they would not offer any warranty support! They set up dealers just to get rid of inventory. Units that cannot be retailed to dealers goes to the auction house and drives the value down, Nada wont ever put a resale value for Hisun on their website. They do not support dealers, I finally got my last one to the auction house and the throttle cable broke on it way to the selling line! Its like throwing money away doing business with these folks... Run away and hide from Hisun as fast as you can! or just send me the cash!
  38. 1 point
    Here is a video of the linear actuators that I used on my Saltdogg salt spreader. I used 2, 2” actuators and made the attaching hardware. No more getting out to open and close the salt hopper. I’m almost done with the blade tilter so, I don’t have to get out of my toasty machine, thanks to the heater that I fabricated IMG_1453.MOV
  39. 1 point
    Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Get an ammeter and connect it between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. Then start pulling fuses until you notice a drop in the ammeter reading. That's the problem circuit. 1/4amp or less is okay. That could be caused by a clock or standby current for the ECU. You're looking for a larger current draw that would cause the sparking that you noticed. Take the battery and see if they can test it. The problem with these smaller batteries measured in Amp Hrs instead of CCA is that some places can't check them. Their equipment is calibrated in CCA. Some use an unreliable method of converting Amp Hrs to CCA by multiplying Amp Hrs x 7.5. At least it will give you something to test against. I keep a trickle charger on my SxS battery.
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