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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Ebay 4x137 is the lug pattern 110mm center bore. Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
  2. 2 points
    Dec 31st. It was a long wait but worth it!
  3. 2 points
    Picked it up Saturday...absolutely love it.
  4. 1 point
    Fuel pressure.It has a small hose from around fuel injector going to an electrical connection
  5. 1 point
    You may also check your 12 volt battery voltage. I have seen cases where the DC/DC converter (48Volt to 12Volt) stoped working and thus not charging the 12 volt battery anymore. I think the front differential electric shifter is powered by the 12 volt battery, that could explain the shifter not engaging if the battery is low. The 12volt battery is located under the driver seat. It powers the instrument panel + winch + main interlock relay on the 48V volt battery bank.
  6. 1 point
    Hi, I'm new to UTV's also, I just purchased the 2020 Kubota RTV XG-850 Sidekick Special Edition. I don't have a lot of experience but this is great little RTV.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Kawasaki sells this winch mount for the 4010, part number KAF40-014 and it looks like it will accommodate most winches as it has multiple holes drilled in it, and 2 for mounting to the Mule. it runs $100 give or take $20.
  10. 1 point
    A mule is supposed to be better dressed. Should at least have a hat on.
  11. 1 point
    Never heard back from the OP? Seems he just left us hanging. To anyone trying to work on drum brakes for the first time. Always work on one side at a time. Leaving the other side intact, you'll have something to look at, and compare to, if you get confused about the assembly. And try to take a couple of pictures of the assembly before you start to take it apart.
  12. 1 point
    travis do you have a power dump on your bed ? the horse mats are heavy .... really heavy, and the mat may retain water and dirt under the mat. we just paint ours every other year. and the other thing about the horse mat is stuff will not slide when you dump them.
  13. 1 point
    May also be the ignition coils failing when hot, let em cool down, they work great, heat up, no spark.. Woops, ignore the above, I misread your problem. But I would check for spark when it won't restart, if it has spark, then it's a fuel issue... I would feel of the carburetor float area to be sure it isn't hot enough to keep you from touching it.
  14. 1 point
    Two of my favorite actors.
  15. 1 point
    You didn't say if it's 4wd. So I'd like to add, that if it's 4wd. that you lube the front diff often. At least once a month. Lube it by driving it in 4wd. Do NOT do ANY turning on pavement, while in 4wd. EVER! Can't stress that enough. I won't even turn mine on hard pack dirt while engaged. Disengage the 4wd. before any turns, unless you're actually in the mud. If you want to lube the front differential on concrete. Do it in a straight line. A quarter mile or so per month is plenty. I use 4wd. only when I see that I'll actually need it. Then disengage immediately after. Don't wait till wheels are spinning to engage the 4wd. do it before you hit the slop. Following this guideline will make the front drive last indefinitely. Otherwise, those delicate, expensive, parts can get damaged. Stay safe and good luck!
  16. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum! Mid grade gas, or low grade preferably the non ethanol would be best. Definitely not hi grade. That's for performance engines, and it might seem counterintuitive, but it won't help, and will definitely cost a lot more. And might make it not run as good. Non ethanol is a much bigger issue. Lots of people have problems with ethanol. Some areas allow more of it in gas, than others. So if that's your area, you'll want to be especially careful. But most areas have a source for non ethanol. It'll still run just fine with ethanol, lots of people do, and if that's all you have. It's more of a cumulative effect, but it's better not to have it. It seems to gum up the works a bit on some buggies. Motor oil is determined by outside temperature, and operating practices. So it depends on the season, what area you live, and how you use a given piece of equipment. In the case of a utv, they're not typically driven that hard, so it's more about outside temperatures, in your area. Thicker oil where I live in semi perpetual summer. Thinner where there's actually seasons. Multi viscosity is how they cover all the bases. It's neither critical, nor rocket science. So unless you're in an extreme environment. Its not a major issue. The lower 48 typically have something around 30wt. Or maybe 40wt. in summer. And usually its a multi weight version. Find out what a similar machine uses. Go with that, keep it changed, when it gets dark. Can't help you on the gear oil, that would depend on the actual differential. Probably gear oil, but it could be transmission fluid for all I know. These new machines are creatively designed nowadays. I do know that the seals around ALL the shafts in ANY machine can dry out with lack of use. So when you drive it. Stay close, till you're sure you won't start hemorrhaging fluids. A few drops would be normal for a machine that's sit for awhile. It might clear up after a few drive cycles. As the seals absorb fluid. Or so I'm told. Mine always had to be changed, as they always kept leaking. Good luck!
  17. 1 point
    I'd start by comparing major components, like the engine, differentials, body style, and such. To major Chinese brands. Don't really know the big ones. But maybe hisun. I'm sure there's several. Then move on to briefly look at other countries like India. I think they make popular, cheap tractors like mahindra. Just stands to reason that they wouldn't ignore the popular UTVs.
  18. 1 point
    Those heat wraps probably aren't made to get too wet. Not that I think it would hurt the wrap, but it's likely not in the design parameters. The amount of moisture that they see in their intended use, would be quickly dissipated by the exhaust heat. No idea though, whether it would hold moisture in your intended use. But I would use insulation on the floor in addition to, or instead of. There's paint like coatings, likely ceramic, and there's asbestos substitutes, like rock wool. That ones for housing I think. But I know for a fact that there's automotive heat shield insulation out there. And likely there's something that'll be moisture, and drainage/evaporation friendly. I would say to use a combination of things. Including carpet floor mat. Cut from scrap carpet. Ceramic tile under the floor mat, plywood, etc. Till you get what you need. FWIW, I work in the carpet industry. And if I'm going to be on the forklift all day. I'll take 5minutes, and custom cut a carpet floor mat. That forklift gets hot. Carpet works well, and it's disposable. And since it's a brand new, clean mat. It's quite luxurious lol.
  19. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum! Is this for full time pulling? Or, as needed? Or just a one time thing? Does it have to be a full water tank? A half a tank would probably make all the difference. Since water is so heavy. However I really don't think you'll hurt the mule just to hook up the trailer, and give it a careful pull around the parking lot. Let the mule tell you what it thinks. By that, I mean to listen to the strain on the motor. Feel the amount of pull that it takes. If it's having to give all its got, that's too heavy. If it doesn't want to move after a reasonable amount of throttle, don't force it. Because if it still hasn't moved, there's your answer. Because actually forcing it to pull something that's way too heavy, might cause a catastrophic breakdown. With a beefier vehicle, it would just spin the tires. You can't count on that from the mule. Components like axles and such aren't cheap. So you have to ease into it. But on pavement, or hardpack dirt, it might just roll out behind you. You never know till you try. I see the park maintenance doing stuff like that with the utv that they have. My thinking is that #3600 pounds is too much for anything more than just a very occasional use. I'd find a way to do a half tank, and just use more fill ups. Because I'm very sure that the brakes aren't sufficient to stop that much weight very easily. And any kind of incline would probably have a less than desirable outcome, whether you were going up or down. And in any case, would cause premature engine fatality. Especially since it's way over recommended capacity. But the real answer for all around success in your case would be a small pickup truck, or small tractor.
  20. 1 point
    Haven't got around to trying this yet. Flooded with other projects coming in. Hope to try it next week. Thanks Travis keep you posted 👍👍
  21. 1 point
    Good afternoon wanted to say hello I just picked up a nice 2008 MSU 500 for my kids/teens to drive around. Going to be scouring the forums and bugging a lot of people to get some hopefully easy questions answered. I keep getting told that a lot of the stuff/parts is interchangeable with rhino parts so hopefully that makes things easy if I need to replace items. Thanks for the warm welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  22. 1 point
    mine as well as several others I have talked to , are plagued with constant overheating issues, resulting in blown headgaskets… and clutch/trans issues .. Massimo admitted to me in email that these 500 and 700 HISUN engines were not good and they discontinued them, went to another Chinese Company for engines .. But refuse to help any of us that were dumb enough to buy them.. I bought mine in 2018 new.. its been in shop 5 times , only has 300 miles.. I hope you have better luck. ….oh, and its in the shop right now.... HEAD GASKET
  23. 1 point
    Welcome to the site.. I truly hope you do not have the never-ending problems that so many are having with these Massimo machines..
  24. 1 point
    3 pages worth of parts here https://www.multinationalparts.com/products/machine/Spartan-500cc
  25. 1 point
    Several are found on Amazon as hitch extenders. I drilled a hole on the other side to accommodate the position of the hole needed.
  26. 1 point
    But don’t forget about the ball joints @Volkz VLOGS
  27. 1 point
    Look into Exhaust heat wraps, buy it in rolls on amazon.
  28. 1 point
    If you have HD Moose ball joints that fit the Joyner Trooper 1100, please post that part number. We would all love to know!
  29. 1 point
    I would open it up, TAKE GOOD PICTURES, heck, even a short video of everything, if it turns out to be what kenfain said, a pin, or keeper, $5-10 fix possibly. Order a new one if you want, install it,, off you go.
  30. 1 point
    Sorry to hear that, we were hoping for a simple fix. Hopefully there's parts available for your model. Being a 2015, you should be okay. I hope you'll consider documenting this process. Then sharing it with us, along with a few pictures. Aside from the obvious entertainment value. It also helps to create permanent, searchable data for others who face that same situation in the future. Just think about how helpful your own search would've been. If you'd have found the cause, and the fix, already documented! If you run into problems along the way. We'll be here to try to help any way we can. Good luck!
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    I have HD moose ones in mine I'll get ya the part number asap.. Box is somewhere in the garage..lol
  33. 1 point
    I have a similar machine, and my wheels won't really spin when it's in the air. Not by hand anyway. Because you're also turning the differential. But I agree that it needs to be jacked up, and on stands. That'll help pinpoint the problem wheel, or wheels. Just be careful to make sure the wheels aren't spinning when you put it in, or shift gear.
  34. 1 point
    I would start with something easy first, and check that your brakes aren't dragging. Jack it up, front and back and spin the tires.
  35. 1 point
    If I were you, I'd threaten with legal action via lemon law and get back your money.
  36. 1 point
    This is all new to me, I have never been on a forum site before but thought this would be a good time to start. I have an opportunity to buy a 2011 cam am commander 800 xt. It is yellow (which I don’t love;)) with 155 miles on it. It came for the DRP factory in Texas where it was used to go from plant to plant. I can pick it up for $6900. This would be used on a farm mostly. Not looking to start a war on what machines are better, just wanting to know if this is worth it. Thanks
  37. 1 point
    I strongly suggest you call Kawasaki Customer Service for some answers. Did you put a deposit down, or pay, for the Mule ? If you didn't , you may have a longer wait than expected. Other customers that have paid will get their machines before those who have not. The latest Kawasaki News advertises the 2021's are out now. The Kawasaki Mule is worth waiting for. I have mine all decked out now...Great Mule !...Good Luck to you !...Your Great Adventure Is Waiting for You !...
  38. 1 point
    Got to work on the carb yesterday, after I blew a pressure hose on the front end loader. That's gonna tear up a $200.00 bill!!! Anyway, got the limiter cap off, ground off the stop tab and popped it back on so as to have a screw driver slot to adjust with. Cranked up the mule and let it warm up, about 10 minutes or so. Started by closing down on the pilot screw to drop the idle, then began slowly backing it out until the highest idle was reached and wouldn't go any higher, turned it back in about 1/8 of a turn or so, readjusted the idle, by ear to what seemed close. Idled great. Time for a test ride. Pulled off very smoothly with no stutter, all the way up high speed. Ran like a champ. Tried it several times in forward and reverse, same response. The only time it wanted to stumble was when I'd get down on it from a dead stop, then a bit but cleared right up. Since these aren't racing machines, and they're driven for what they are, a utility vehicle, I couldn't be happier. Travis, I want to thank you again for all the help and support. Let me know if you ever need anything... Roger
  39. 1 point
    I have a 2014 Alli 700 wide body, and I cant find a lift kit anywhere so far. I can tell you that one for a MSU does not work.
  40. 1 point
    I have the factory service manual available for the Buck 400. Just send me a message with your email and I'll get it to you. No charge. Matt
  41. 0 points
    I have a 2007 Joyner sand Viper 1100 cc that needs a clutch it is next to impossible to find one I have heard a Geo Metro or a Ford Escort 2.0 will interchange could anybody help me out with this
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