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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/18/2018 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    If you own a 4000 or 4010 Mule, and perhaps others that are of the 2cylinder type, there is an ignition -coil for each cylinder. When one of them dies, and they must because there seem to be a lot of them sold through the internet and that coil is used on several makes of engines, then your DFI light will not go out after the engine is started which indicates that you have a problem. If it's the coil then you are running on one cylinder and the power you now have is enough to get you back home, the limp home mode. The # 1 coil is the one in front and isn't bad to get to but the #2 coil is the one in the rear and next to impossible to get to. If you read the manual it tells you how many things you must take apart to get to it Trust me, You have a lot to disassemble, Tire, shock absorber, torque converter housing , clutch, starter motor, and then the coil. I figured out how to eliminate that but you need patience , a lot of swear words, a lot of luck, and a special 8 mm wrench.. Pray yours doesn't die and if so you may want to take it to a dealer and let them fix it. Gerry C
  2. 1 point
    Might doesn't make right but it beats whatever's in 2nd place. I think my folks did spend their money on my education wisely. It taught me to think. My idea of spreading open the bracket that holds the pin was correct. Why the parts diagram doesn't show the connecting pin separately is because it is part of the cable and not a separate part. For those of you who had the same problem as I trying to replace the hood release cable, the bracket which is a welded part of the release latch mechanism is like a square "U" with a hole drilled through it to accept the pin. On one side of the bracket is a slot about a 1/4 inch wide from the outside edge to the hole. Take a large screw driver or or wedge and twist the slot until it opens up just enough to release the pin and the cable. Now you can pull the cable, knob and all out through the hole in the dash. This, assuming you've managed to release the nut holding the whole thing tight against the bracket that the cable goes through. That bracket also has a slot cut through it and as you pull the cable through you may be able to slide the cable out through the slot or maybe even bend it enough to get the cable out. It's a thick bracket so you may not be able to bend it. Haven't gotten that far as yet. Will work on that tomorrow. I'll let you know how that works out and the steps necessary to replace it. After that, if anyone is interested, I'll go through another nightmare and that is replacing the ignition -coil in the rear or #2 spot on the Mule. That's a bunch of fun too. Gerry C
  3. 1 point
    I just found your post giving the site for the manuals and the exploded parts diagram.The #554 snap pin that's shown in the diagram is connected to the differential shift cable. That's a regular hairpin type retainer that they use throughout the machine. The is no such number as a #50410 that I could find. There is, however, number 54010 for the hood cable which doesn't show what happens at the end of the cable where the pin should be. You may have just reversed the numbers. The manual just tells you how to open the hood. All good suggestions but have been there. If there was a Kawasaki dealer nearby I'd ask them but the closest is far from me but I make a trip anyway if I can't figure this out. Like I said before, please keep giving me ideas. If I've already tried them, I will try them again as I may have missed something.. When I finally finish this repair I'll write up a report as I'm sure there are others who have had or will have the same problem. Gerry C
  4. 1 point
    I have the complete manuals from Kawasaki for the Mule and have read all applicable topics and they really say nothing about how to remove the cable nor the pin. They just tell you how to adjust the cable length and that you need to remove basically the whole front end just to get to it. There's a welded box section up near the dash that the cable has to go through and there's a nut on the backside which holds the cable knob end in place. Good luck getting to that nut, I did and it's loose now but pulling the cable through depends on getting the pin out. It should look like a straight forward task but it is not as easy as it looks. Trust me, I read everything I can get my hands on and I've been around heavy machinery all my life so being a mechanic is second nature. I've just never gotten involved with motorcycles ot ATV/UTV's so I'm still learning.. Even the parts schematic drawings don't help nor does it even show the pin. It must come with the replacement cable.. I'm going back after it this morning but I will be greatful for any suggestions short of setting the thing on fire. Gerry C.
  5. 1 point
    Looking for ideas for custom mod ideas for my Trooper fleet.
  6. 1 point
    $3000+ for service on a new machine with 60 hrs on it? You're being taken for a ride for sure over very rough terrain. Maybe the lemon law applies here - it is a motor vehicle. I would demand a refund and explain that social media can be an excellent venue to let people know where to spend their money and where not to spend it.
  7. 1 point
    silverbullet i have some with out part numbers i will check.Is it it a rengade 4x4 Rich Send me email to [email protected] 1 have one aout 10'
  8. 1 point
    Just a follow-up note. I looked through the cross-reference oil filter list provided by Vaughn and the other provided by Travis and noticed that they both list the Kawasaki 49065-7010. I park my UTV in my garage and I park my Zero turn mower in the shed. I have not tried the filter on the UTV yet but the Kawasaki engine on my lawn mower uses the Kawasaki 49065-7010 and I have a new spare for the mower in the shed. If I had noticed this in the beginning (if I had these cross-reference listings), I more than likely would not have run into my problem. I will try the Kawasaki filter the next time I change the filter on the UTV and it will be my "go to" filter for both machines.
  9. 1 point
    I don't see how you can swap the heads to get more power. The part numbers are not the same. Crankshaft part numbers are not the same, either. 13101-004-0000-KIT Piston Kit, HS UTV 400/500 13101-007-0000-KIT Piston Kit, HS UTV 700
  10. 1 point
    Do be offended if I state something you already know. I'm just covering all bases. This is how I bleed my brakes on my van and car. My Renegade has three master cylinders (one for the clutch and two for the brakes - I believe that's how they're configured). If you're doing it solo, 1. Place a small glass jar at the wheel furthest from the master cylinders (usually the right rear). and fill the jar with about 1" brake fluid 2. Connect a hose from the bleeder valve to the jar. Make sure the end of the hose is submerged and fits snugly over the bleeder valve. This will be your airlock. 3. Fill the master cylinders with brake fluid. 4. Open the bleeder valve at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear) 5. Pump the brake pedal slowly about 3 times. Important: Make sure the hoses stay submerged in brake fluid at each wheel and you don't let the fluid level in the master cylinder drop to the point of pumping air into the brake lines. You may find you can pump it more times before you have to refill the master cylinders. 6. Refill the master cylinders and/or the jar as needed. 7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 until you feel you've bled all the air out of that line. If you have a helper, they can watch for air bubbles in the jar to cease. 8. Close the bleeder valve at that wheel. 7. Move to the next wheel (left rear) and repeat steps 3-7. Then repeat for the right front, then the left front. There are several websites that tell you how to bleed brakes. I would suggest you take a look at them for pointers. They can be of help. You may have to bleed the master cylinders before you do the wheels.
  11. 1 point
    I’ve searched all over and haven’t been able figure out the maker and model of my buggy. It appears to be some kind of Joyner maybe an older model? Anyone know what this is? it appears to be 1000cc and it’s a 4 cylinder thx
  12. 1 point
    Looks like it would be a lot of fun to drive. But with those open wheels, I think you'll be wearing whatever you're driving through. You should also look for a stamped number on the frame. I'd think that it would be in the cockpit. Those numbers are hard to spot, since they're painted over. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
  13. 1 point
    There's got to be a manufacturer plate on it somewhere. It'll have the vehicles info on it. I'd get it up in the air where I could inspect the bottom thoroughly. I'm assuming you've inspected all that's visible on the top side.
  14. 1 point
    Thx, this is the only number I can find and it’s on the tranny but doesn’t reveal anything in a search engine...
  15. 1 point
    Have you looked for any numbers on the engine? It looks very similar to the sandviper, but the 2 front metal bars are different than the viper. overall it's a good looking machine, and Welcome to the board!
  16. 1 point
    Thanks for the thoughts. The funny thing is, even running for a short time with the choke partially closed, the plugs really soot up. That tells me its getting more fuel than it can burn properly. And these $275-300 carbs aren't a common inventory part.
  17. 1 point
    Hello UTV enthusiasts, I am a student at Villanova University and am doing a market research project on UTVs. If people would mind filling out this survey, I would greatly appreciate it. https://villanova.az1.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_8k17pLvfnFaLXz7 Thank you
  18. 1 point
    Some of the questions did not have choices that fit my situation. Example: Some mods are done to enhance utility, not safety, performance or appearance.
  19. 1 point
    Figure could get some more power from the bigger 700 piston
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