nods

Well, the dealer has had my 750 for seven weeks now for a number of issues that he has been putting off. Not a happy camper! However I was told that Hisun felt it was possibly an MCU problem and it was swapped out while it was in a no start condition. It seemed to run OK, so the original was put back in and they had a no start condition once again. They then replaced the MCU and felt that there might be an internal intermittent connection to one of the connector pins that was the cause of the codes and running issues. I hope to get my 750 back very soon and if it passes MY smell test, I will call this issue fixed at that time.

Not a charging problem. Has issues when trying to start, pops codes when it does not even stay running, It will display a code when it does run until I make a right turn at the top of my driveway and the code goes away. If I drive back down my driveway I might get a different code, and that code might just disappear before I get back to the top of the driveway. It gets even worse if it rains while it is parked. It has to be a poor connection someplace. Dealer still has it, have not talked to him for three weeks so I have no idea if he did any of the needed repairs yet. My wife totaled her car last week so I have different concerns at this time. If it ever does get fixed, I will be sure to post what the cause was. I do not have a lot of confidence at this time, as I mentioned in a previous post, I am going to look into the lemon law for this state. Thanks for your input. nods

Dollars to Doughnuts you have a bad starter solenoid. Had to have mine changed at 18 hours! It is fairly easy to test, use a volt meter and connect the ground (black) lead to a chassis ground point, an unpainted bolt would likely due. Take the positive lead of the meter (red) and connect it to the larger terminal of the solenoid that is NOT connected to the battery. It should read 0 volts. Now turn the key to the crank position and if it just clicks read the voltage. If it still shows 0 volts the relay is toast. If you get battery voltage then the problem is not the relay. (You can check your meter function by testing the battery voltage at the battery terminal.) Hope that helps you.

Andy, Thanks so much for the reply. I was going for a ground concern; it was the E Infront of the codes that was throwing me off. Why didn't they just show a P instead. It seemed to me it was a loose ground because it changed with the weather, literally every time it rained it had some other fault showing and different running concerns. I have suggested checking the engine to frame ground to my dealer who has the vehicle now. He seems pretty sharp but is new to Hisun products. At least now I feel I was on the right diagnostic path. My health is keeping me from doing a lot of the repairs myself. I guess I need to learn to enjoy retirement and let someone else do the work. Thanks again for the info.

Sorry but I have no idea. Was an auto tech for 24 years, worked on drivability complaints all the time, before we had the built-in diagnostics like we do now. Had to pinout everything to test but at least they gave us codes that meant something. Hisun really needs to get better at getting out diagnostic info. Seems like they have a bunch of rouge programmers out there with each doing their own thing. Really a pity. Thinking about the lemon law with mine. Not a happy camper here.! Sorry I can't help You. I know how you feel!

Less than 40 miles can barely start. Dealer is working with Hisun on a number of other issues on this UTV. Can not get clear info on the meaning of these E codes this is getting. Anybody have some clear info for me?