HighSon

So here’s the setup I used to replace the Silent Rider silencer. Materials 2” 16 ga mandrel bent 90 deg elbows (2 pieces) [90 deg elbow] 2” 16 ga mandrel bent 90 deg elbow with tail piece [90 deg + straight] 2” resonator [resonator] Rubber exhaust hanger (note- only used one) [hanger] 2” butt joint band clamp (2 pieces) (note- the exact brand I bought is no longer on Amazon but here’s an identical one) [butt clamp] 4” diameter band clamp (2 pieces, local hardware store) To make the exit pipe from the original muffler, I used the original spark arrestor flange cut from the arrestor and opened the ID to fit the 2” elbow OD. Then I welded the first elbow into the stock flange and welded the second elbow to the first at 90 degrees. The orginal trim ring can slide back over the pipe into place for aesthetics. This forms the new exit pipe to the resonator. In addition, I used some 1” x 1/4” flat stock and a piece of 1/2” rod (cut from a stainless bolt) to fab up the upper hanger that bolts to the Hisun frame, and a piece of 1/8” plate formed to match the radius of the resonator that I welded to a short tab and another 1/2” bolt shank rod. The 4" band clamps attach the resonator to the plate, and the rubber exhaust hanger provides support and vibration isolation. So originally I had intended to have the tail pipe extend straight down, but the elbows I chose wound up a bit longer than anticipated and conflicted with the rear wheel. I shortened the elbow legs on either side of the resonator as much as practicable while maintaining what I estimated to be minimum safe clamping area of about 1” to 1-1/4” (which also required “notching” the band clamps on the inside bends, see photos). I was able to get the tail pipe piece off of the tire, but it’s still pretty close and cannot aim straight toward the ground. Doesn’t look as clean, but I deem it acceptable and it does not heat the tire. I will turn down the last few inches at a later date, which should also reduce sound a bit more. So how does it perform I'm sure you are wondering... ***OUTSTANDING IMPROVEMENT!*** Much quieter, particularly outside the vehicle. Definitely quieter than the Silent Rider and lower cost (at least from my perspective since I could fab up the bits). Moreover, the stainless should last the life of this vehicle. Not a simple install for the average owner, but a muffler shop or local welder could do it for you. If I had to do this again I might source some tighter elbows or I would just shorten all the legs and weld up everything including the resonator in order to get the tailpipe straight down. But I didn’t want to weld in a resonator in general just to make it more serviceable, and also definitely not until I had assessed the performance of the mods and the selected resonator. You might look at the Evil Energy ones...more expensive but it looks like all stainless. Also, the exhaust clamps I ordered do not have stainless bolts. And finally there are more heavy duty band clamps available for the resonator that I may switch to in the future. Sorry I forgot to take a picture of the resonator hanger before installing, but you should be able to see it clearly in the installed pics. Post any questions and I’ll reply as best I can.

The rear seats are Wise Industrial Universal Folding Forklift Seats (Black, Model 1745P) that I purchased from Northern Tool. Unfortunately, they no longer carry them, but you may be able to source them elsewhere. I made brackets that cradle the seats and attach to the tube rail along the bed so I can easily remove them when I need the cargo space.

I have all the parts but I’m traveling. Should post installation in about 2 weeks.

I’ve ordered some stainless pipe and a stainless silencer. It will be a while (probably 6 weeks) before I can get it all installed, but I’ll post the parts and results then.

Actually, the part that failed was an aftermarket silencer installed after the stock muffler to reduce the exhaust noise. The stock muffler is still in good shape.

So for those of you who have dabbled in muffling your insanely loud Hisun, I just wanted to give an update on the Silent Rider Silencer project I reported on just short of 3 years ago. The silencer has failed from rust rot. So in the end, not a good investment. If I do a different one, pretty sure it will be stainless this time. If others have tried other add-on mufflers or fixes beyond what’s already been reported, please post your experience.

Unclear which seized bolt you are referring to, but if the diff is otherwise loose from the frame, you can try working it rearward. But I believe the rear lower bracket may well be in the way if it cannot be removed.

You are overthinking this. Do not remove the sole plate UNLESS after you remove the shaft and coupler, you see obvious damage to the coupler. If the coupler looks bad where it mates with the sole plate, then use a light to look into the splines of the sole plate. If it looks damaged, then remove it at that point. Removing that is not covered in the video because it's a different set of steps, and IIRC, you need to remove the center brake caliper in order to remove the plate and disc. I'm not certain, but pretty sure. It's been a while. To your other question, it will make it easier to SLIDE, not SLIP. So no. It's a spring loaded spline fit. It moves in and out. It needs grease. Moreover, it needs moisture protection to inhibit corrosion. Anyone else on this forum is welcome to a different opinion, but it won't be because it causes the splines to slip.

Not really. Just make sure you lift the rear end to align as you slide the assemblies back together. It sags without the mounts. Which reminds me, before you unfasten the rear end, make sure the speed sensor at the rear of the diff (brass fitting with black cable coming out) has some free slack. You don't want to damage the cable if it becomes taut when the diff is loosened. If the sensor cable is zip tied to the frame, clip the zip tie first. Then unplug the sensor. This will give you all the slack you need. My spline damage appeared to be caused by heavy corrosion of the parts, weakening the wear surfaces. Had it been assembled from the factory with grease, I doubt it would have failed so quickly. I reassembled all the new parts with grease.

It's easier but not required.

Because the splined bushing (coupler)on mine had damaged the internal splines of the rear receiver (a.k.a, "sole plate") from banging back and forth. It's not necessary to remove to get the drive shaft out; but you should inspect it, and if the splines look bad, you should consider replacing. That video I referenced was simply how to remove the drive shaft. You still need to diagnose and repair. Inspect all the parts closely. slide each of the splined sections in and see how much lash they have. If it's excessive on any of the components, replace. Or as noted above, possibly invert the coupler...but for my money and time, I would replace.

A visual inspection is all that’s required to determine if any of the parts has failed. If any of the splines are worn off or damaged, that’s the problem. Assembly is just swapping out the shaft, bushing and/or receiver, putting the shaft components back together, and putting everything in place in back in reverse. As a mechanic, I view it to be a very simple procedure. But if you don’t feel confident after watching the video, it may not be something to attempt. Here is a photo of the shaft assembly from my 2022 750 Sector, which may differ slightly from others. The star shaped part on the right unbolts from the parking brake disc IIRC. I also recommend you examine the parts exploded diagram for your vehicle. Motorcycle Doctor has just about all of them on their site and they’re also an excellent source for parts and technical info.

Yes, but it does require that you have at least a bit of mechanical ability. You don't have to remove the CV axles or anything, so it is pretty simple for someone who does, say, their own maintenance. You just have to drop the splash pan under the rear end, remove the 2 or 3 differential mounting bolts, and remove the rear lower diff mount. This will free up the rear end so you can slide it rearward enough to slide the shaft out. There are a few different variants of the drive shaft assembly but they are all similar. Be aware of the spring or springs that sit on the shaft (some on both ends, some on one end). There is a bolt-on splined receiver on the diff and a splined coupler between it and the drive shaft. On mine, the coupler and the receiver were actually what failed. There is a good YouTube showing how to do it that you can judge for yourself if you can do it on your own. Search for "Vector 700 itv remove rear driveshaft" and it should pop up. Hope this helps.

Hmmm...not sure I buy that assertion. I understand that you should not drive around in high gear except when driving at higher speeds due to excess wear on the clutch, even though it seems smooth and quieter driving around in high. FWIW, our is driven only on the street. Original clutch still operates as new at 4500 km. As for the spline wear being a prophylactic measure, sounds reasonable, but it seems to me that as it wears out it may put greater impact loading on the rear end gears. I noticed ours getting "lurchy" before it failed. When you pull it apart and nothing but rust crumbs fall out it and the splines are worn to nubs makes you believe its not intended to fail that way. In my case it was not an instantaneous failure of splines from over-stressing the drive train. I attribute my spline failure (and I suspect some others may be as well) as a direct result of using a lower quality alloy for the shaft or not properly heat treating the splines. I like my Hisun overall, but it does suffer from some design/manufacturing defects. Relative to it's overall value I have found it occasionally irritating but generally acceptable. Sorry if that sounds argumentative...really just sharing my experience with the issue. Regardless, if there's a takeaway from this it's that it is a good idea to pull the shaft and inspect it before it fails, especially if you notice your ride getting lurchy. It's pretty easy to get at.

This may apply to other models as well, but mine is a 2022 Sector 750. My brakes were squealing irritatingly from day one, so I inspected all the brakes in the first 500 km and found that one of my parking brake pads had fallen off the backing plate, possibly from the factory. I thought this was an aberration until recently, when one of the factory pads fell off the left front caliper. Basically, the friction pad delaminated from its backing plate in both cases. Fortunately, it happened at low speed and my wife felt the pedal lurch toward the floor, knowing something had occurred. I replaced ALL the pads, which still had plenty of wear life left, because it's clear that there is some kind of manufacturing defect with these factory pads. So if your brakes are squealing, check all the pads. Or just check them to be sure -- they still function with the backing plate squeezing against the rotor. This can be a dangerous failure.