aefron88

There's no brake switch. The shift lever just operates a lever on the engine case, purely mechanical.

The needle adapter shown in the first post makes it so you don't need to be straight perpendicular like with a traditional grease gun coupler, You need to make sure you're buying the blunt type like that, there are also sharp needles meant for piercing rubber in ball joints, etc. With the blunt needle adapter you basically shove it into the check ball. It does make a bit more of a mess than a normal coupler, but it does fit. The driveshaft zerks are certainly have limited clearance. The other option is a small grease gun that just fits on top of the zerk without coupling. You can see one pictured in the "rear driveshaft" pic Something like this

Ok so lets start off simple on the instructions I posted above. I'm assuming you have a Volt/Ohm meter, if not you'll need to get one. If you find something wrong in any of these steps rectify, and then try starting again. Just so we're clear, how are you checking for spark and determining that you don't have one? Are you sure you have the key wired up correctly to the proper terminals? -First check all the fuses. There is a fuse on the positive battery cable. The remaining fuses are inside the box forward of the battery under the seat. Remove the cover (4 Philips screws) and check each fuse for continuity. -If those are all good, next step is check the battery. Should have 12.5V or more. If it doesn't charge it. -Next step is to inspect the plug, make sure it is clean, not fouled, and gapped properly. If it's still in new condition, and not soaked in gas it's likely OK. Let me know the answers to above, and confirm all those steps are complete with no resolution.

likely running extremely rich, Best guess would be failed O2 sensor, but thats just a guess. I believe those models are likely carbed vs fuel injected, so let me know if thats incorrect. Likely your carberateur jet setting is wrong, or the choke is stuck on. Have you ever cleaned it? Could you post a pic or model info of the carb I'm not sure what type the older models even have?

By "small body tank" do you mean carberator bowl? If so you might have a fuel pump issue. I'm not familar with the carbed models do they have an electric pump? have you tested the pressure on the fuel line? is there an inline filter?

Interesting, I have heard of a few on cars where they fail once hot. That's not where my mind would have taken me troubleshooting. Glad to hear you've fixed it!

View File Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 Parts Diagrams Compiled document with parts diagrams for Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 for help in repairs where the service manual diagrams are poor or non existent. Submitter aefron88 Submitted 04/15/2024 Category Hisun  

Looks like this, gotta pull the screws and the fuses are inside. It's under the seat near the batt on the smaller displacement UTVs, and I believe under the hood on the firewall on the bigger ones. If you look at the wiring diagrams a lot of stuff is shared so a seemingly unrelated fuse can cause issues on a lot of systems.

That is to say the crank position sensor? Any reason you narrowed down on that and the coils? Was it a no spark situation after the fifteen minutes?

So that looks like your primary (the one off the wet clutch). The primary gets wider as you speed up, pushing the belt higher on the pulley. The secondary does the opposite. That's how the variable gear ratio is achieved. There are weighted rollers that push outwards against the spring force to achieve this. Likely one of the rollers popped out of place and got wedged keeping your primary pulley in "high gear" if that makes sense. The fix requires disassembly, and putting the rollers back in the right spots, but it might be best to take it to a shop that does these things, or buy a new primary. To answer the other question I have not disassembled one of these, but my understanding is they are not supposed to have grease.

Here's the "no spark" troubleshooting section from the service manual. The full manual are available in the download section under Hisun HS400 (Hisun branded version of the same SxS)

Congrats. You're not the first report on here of a broken fan switch. Glad you got it all sorted

Found it! Looks like if you cut the "green with blue chaser" wire in the 9-pin harness it should disable the reverse limiter. No promises it won't screw something else up.

So you tried swapping it? What is the batt voltage at the battery. What is the voltage between the battery side solenoid terminal and the neg batt post? If those are the same and over 12.5V that's probably ok. Have you tried shorting the solenoid terminals to bypass it? Does the starter turn?

Kinda weird it's showing all high voltages. Anyone checked the voltages at the batt when it's running? I wonder if the regulator failed and it's getting an excessively high running voltage.

They used to have a post, seems to have been taken down, but IIRC you just cut one of the wires on the 9pin harness on the carbed models... Maybe someone will drop by with the right color wire info.

Hisun support is non existent, and their service manuals leave out a lot. The user manuals are also pretty lacking and out of date. I wouldn't buy one without being somewhat mechanically inclined. You will need to do some services relatively soon after purchase as they tend to come poorly assembled and adjusted, especially if you buy one from a big box store since the final assembly will be done by a 19 yr old who doesn't know what they're doing. Parts are easy to get from a number of sources and a lot are common across many of their models. Hisun themselves don't sell parts retail, but a lot of smaller vendors do, as well as dealers. You won't be getting them from the auto parts store however so expect a wait for shipping. Some people seem to get lemons, and that seems to be more of what you see posted. That's common across brands, most people aren't searching for a forum to post about how their UTV has been flawless for 5k miles. I have my suspicions that some of the issues are more poor adjustment and lack of proper maintenence related. The actual EFI systems on these things are relatively easy to troubleshoot with free software and about $30 on cabling, I posted a tutorial on the Coleman forum. To each their own. You might have better luck with a name brand, but my experience has been the MSRP quoted on the website is much lower than the out the door price from all of the local dealers who love to add thousands of dollars in fees. That's pretty much why I went with a Coleman. I did a lot of research and had read the entire service manual before purchasing, found parts sources etc.

you can check the wiring diagram to verify the dash plug (last page of the previously linked manual) it has good pictures of the shape/pinouts of each plug. Some parts vendors have out of date parts diagrams from previous models, so likely thats how you ended up witht he wrong keyswitch. you'll even find there are some references to the carbed model in some of the current user and service manual.

I would adjust valve lash, and drain and fill the fuel, as it is likely stale if it's been sitting and may have a pocket of water at the bottom of the tank.

Not famlar with that model, but most hisuns being very similar: can you try unplugging the box under the hood labeled "speed limiter"? If there's not a box, I believe there is a wire you can cut, but I don't know the details, I believe "motorcycledoctor" has some info on disabling the speed limiter on older models in their info part of theor site.

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement. When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

The UT400-5 (the fuel injected version that was being manufactured something like 2018-today) the key is on the right side of the steering column simular to most cars. There is a vestigial hole where the key used to mount in the dash in the 400-4 (carbed model) As far as the stalk not sure what you're asking? Normally all this comes installed from the factory. Here is a pic of how it normally looks fresh out of the crate. Just have to bolt on the cage/roof/steeringwheel/backrest/sidemirrors. Go to the downloads section of this site, under chisun" you'll find the HS-400 factory service manual. The body chapter may have steering column info you need. There is also a good wiring diagram (last page) that shows pictures if each plug and pinouts so you can match what you're looking for re:ignition switch.

Straight from the FSM (available in the downloads section) Service intervals: So 10hrs/50 miles for breaking. 100 hours/500 miles for regular oil changes per the manufacturer. Valve lash: Seafoam as mentioned is not a cure all. If you have water in the fuel or its stale (which it is if it wasnt stabilized and its more than a month or two old) I would siphon out what you can and put fresh stuff in. Old fuel can be slowly mixed in with your car fuel to dilute it so it burns properly. Techron is a good injector cleaner additive (or anything with PEA) if you think you need that, but these multec 2.5 injectors are pretty cheap anyway.

Try playing with the adjustment. The 500/550's don't have the same shifter cable/lever issues as the 40's but the cable can stretch over time. If you're getting grinding and popping out of gear it could be worn clutch dogs too, which require some effort to replace as they're internal to the transmission. If you're having shift issues and grinding it's best to be proactive about adjusting because it does damage the dogs over time, and eventually will just pop out of gear at will once the dogs are rounded enough.