aefron88

They tend to run rich and foul plugs and sensors as do a lot of small engines in general. in some versions of the manual it actually recommends periodically cleaning the O2 sensor, but I suspect they removed it from a lot of the retail ones because the EPA doesnt want that to be a regularly needed maintainence item, and there is some risk of damaging the sensor. If you look at my post below it explains how to hook up a scanner so you can see what each sensor is reading. you could alternatively test this with a "fast" volt meter directly on the O2 sensor. It's a narrow band O2 sensor so it SHOULD be reading back and forth between O V and 1 V as it trims fuel and adjusts between rich and lean. Sticking to one voltage or the other would indicate that it's not reading properly. Again you need a fast (as in multile accurate readings per second) digital volt meter to accurately read that. In HUD ECU Hacker below you should also see Short/Long term fuel trims as being big numbers if the computer is having to agressively compensate for rich/lean running conditions, or a failed sensor that makes it think thats the case.

Mark, I've never heard of anyone needing to do that. Have you inspected and see that its plugged? Most people arent running huge amounts of fuel through these things over their lifetimes vs like a car.

Homeowner A, I've only ever made it work with the VAGKKL adapter. I suspect if you cant connect its likely PC/Driver issues. Open "device manager" find the adapter and ensure its working and using the CH340 drivers. Lots of stuff gets prolific drivers by default and the newer prolific Serial to USB drivers intentionally cripple chinese clone chips that come in most cheap cables.

Just disconnect the connector on the drivers buckle and it disables it.

The injector flow is computer controlled. You can adjust the fuel mapping if you have some idea what you're doing using HUD ECU hacker software and cabling. You wont gain much if anything as far as power.

It would be helpful to know the wattage of the lightbar, but yes sounds like you arent charging the battery with the lightbar on. The voltage regulator isnt going to help generate more power, it would just keep from burning out at higher generation from the stator. All the rectifier does is turn generated AC into DC with diodes. Those diodes have a maximum wattage rating, and if you exceed that (more amps or more volts) you can burn them out. Bigger battery and/or plugging into the wall to recharge the batt are possible bandaid fixes, but dont address the core issues. I'm not aware of a bigger stator available. Easiest fix would be to buy a slightly lower wattage lightbar, and convert the headlights to LED. I've never seen any specs for what these generate, but typically stator based charging systems don't have a lot of extra power past running the vehicle lights and ECU. Maybe an extra 10 amps/120 watts.

home desgning an engine is a colossal waste of time, unless you're just interested in doing that for the sake of engineering. It wont make much power or be reliable without a lot of machine work and experientation. Trying to slap together a crankshaft out of scrap material without a lot of machine lathe exerience is going to be an excercise in futility. Crankshafts are extremely sensitive to balance, and straightness. You can buy a Honda BX200 clone in the US for $100, and a centrifugal clutch that fits it for $30. that's what is commonly used in homemade gokarts. Building something bigger and more like a UTV is definitely do able with off the shelf components and a homemade frame/body. Heck a 6hp BX200 UTV is probably do-able (with a better clutch) it just wont have a very high top speed. Lots of early low CC UTV's were <20HP and stiill manage to do 30+ MPH.

There have been several reports of this on various Hisun models. Seems to be more metalurgy or heat treating issue than corrosion since the threads seem to strip out. Should not be any real reason for additional grease past what it takes to assemble the splines initially, so I dont see it as a grease issue, just soft metal that strips out.

I dont have any lights yet, but I suspect 300+ watts is too much for your stator. What kind of voltage do you get at the battery when running that light at idle? These things dont make a lot of extra electricity. Anything less than about 14V indicates you've got too much draw.

Is the fan coming on? If not you likely have a failed thermo switch (drivers side of radiator towards the bottom) or a failed fan. The switch seems to be the more common failure, and relatively cheap to fix. do a search there was a post last year about troubleshooting/replacement with some good pictures. If the fan is working, you may need to bleed coolant. these can be tricky to bleed. there is an allen setscrew style plug on the drivers side of the engine where the coolant hose goes into the block that you need to loosen to get a good bleed or there can be air stuck at the top of the engine which will reduce/stop coolant circulation.

Have you put the bolts in the holes the secondary to spread it? I cant remember theyre 6MM I believe on the 400 and 8mm on the bigger engines? It's a tough squeeze on any CVT especially without spreading the secondary sheave. Those bolts will hold it spread while you wiggle it on. Not sure the exact length, but there are a number of vendors selling aftermarket parts for these things with no year designation, and there are some differences between models over the years. In the future you'll have better luck making a new post rather than reviving a multi year old post on different topics.

OP, Does the engine rev while trying to go up the hill, or does it slow down? If it revs up and you slow down your wet clutch is likely toast. If the engine just slows down its just a function of the machine being underpowered or not performing optimally due to some other issue. These things are not exactly powerful being 400 CC and weighing 1200lbs empty. Your options on the latter are to get a running start, or make your wife get out and push.

There's only a medum-high gear on the 400, its single speed

If I had to guess a model that old is likely carberated, and would not have the Delphi ECU. Sometime in the mid/late teens is when Hisun switched to fuel injection/Delphi ECU system

got mine off ebay, should not require any cutting if you get the right adapter. Mine came slow boat from China, but there were domestic alternatives there for more money.

should be under the seat, on the passengers side. it's a screw in cap with the dipstick attached. It can be hard to see.

Like Greg said it could be the one way bearing. You can try removint it entirely and see if it still acts the same. It's also possible its the wrong wet clutch. I've seen quite a few for sale from various manufacturers and I've read reports of ones that didn't fit correctly or dont work properly because the size is slightly off. Unfortunately that's an issue with Hisun making slight changes between a bunch of models that use essentially the same parts.

Likely the 2009 ones were not EFI, so there are probably substantial changes. Don't quote me on that.

Alien, I think that is some of the cause of wet clutch issues reported on these units. Lots of people refuse to read a manual or understand what they're working with. It doesn't help that Hisun (and their branded distributors) give different oil specs in different literature. Once the wet clutch wear starts, it progresses quickly. The worn off friction material in the oil i'm sure doesn't help lubricating other components either, which could be part of the common wear ("stretching") issues with timing chains too. If you do need to replace a wet clutch a full oil/filter change is required too to get that crap out of the crankcase.

The biggest issue with anything with a wet clutch is running at speeds where the clutch is barely engaged. Doing that, and putting strain on it can cause the clutch to slip causing excessive wear. Once it starts to wear from slipping it gets worse quick. These cheaper UTVs seem to have weaker wet clutches anyway, anything you can do to avoid that wear is a plus. You should run low range at lower speeds (below say 20 mph) or repeated start/stop conditions. High range is for faster continuous trail/road driving.

Is this the ECT sensor code? Did you replace the correct sensor, there's two of em nearby. Did you throw a meter on the old sensor and confirm no continuity? What does the new sensor show? How about the other temp sensor?

There are three things being set preload, damping, and rebound. Preload is the big ring that pre compresses the spring. More weight requires higher preload. If you find your springs sagging a lot when you get in you probably need to tighten it up. Damping is how much force it takes on the shock to move it. Rebound is how strongly it pushes back once compressed. With that knowledge time to do some playing. Riding "rough" could describe a lot of things. Start with softer settings and work your way up. So less preload, less damping.

Several people on here have reported no issues pushing snow, I'm a bit skeptical myself that it won't cause a lot of wear long term. There are quite a few reports of premature wet clutch wear, but there also seem to be a ton of people who are unaware they need wet clutch compatable oil, so it may be a result of friction modifiers. Hard to tell if these clutches really do wear easily or if it's just user error.